**Super_Dogs**

I stopped using frontline years ago. I use sentinel spectrum and capstar.

I have chocolate labs and have no skin problems at all. Chocolate labs are pretty popular at the moment so it is pretty unlikely that they will find a pup straight away. I have a waiting list for my litters before they are born and they are all usually spoken for as soon as they are born. Buying a lab from a pet store is a very bad idea. They are prone to hip and elbow problems, so they need to go to a registered breeder and find a litter with parents that have good scores. These problems can be very costly but also not a great life for the dog.

Yeah that's great news When Jett had her last U/S they counted 8, she had 14 WOW!! That is alot of puppies that where hiding at the ultrasound :laugh:

I prefer the pay extra where they have good equipment. Near me you can get an ultrasound for $50 which just confirms pregnant or go to another vet that costs $150 and you can see the heartbeats and how many pups. Last time he could see nine, but says + 2 incase any are hiding. We had 9. IMO definetly worth the extra money!! We just had an ultrasound yesterday. She is pregnant with 8 (or more) puppies

This too would be my suggestion. My reckon my pup would have eaten the walls being locked in the laundry. :D If you want to keep your pup unside do you have another, bigger room where you can keep the pup?

This is exactly what i was thinking.

It might make you wonder. Talk to enough vets, kennel owners and groomers and you might form a different view. They're there for dogs and they'll do what ever it takes to keep the dogs calm and often that means owner out of the picture ASAP. A no fuss departure where the dogs are taken from you is pretty common for a lot of such businesses. A teary owner saying fond farewells stresses a lot of dogs and acting to prevent such a possiblity would be pretty common I think. While I agree these business must be there for the dog, with every dog there is an owner. If the business wants repeat customers and to gain business through word of mouth they need to keep the owners happy - the dogs arn't paying the bills!!! They might have had a very valid reason why they did not want the OP to come in. All they needed to do was explain this. If it was me, I would have also felt very uneasy.

Megan - sound very frustrating. Maybe you need to go back to foundations and learn to play again like he is learning something new, so you want to start this where there are no distractions. So maybe you are best working with at home for a few weeks, then head back to training??? I know that it helps with drive to get your dog to play, but I would find it difficult with an instructor that kept pressing the point and my girl is not interested in playing. She loves working for me, but at home or training she is not interested in playing - she just sits for a treat! So instead of playing before a run we do nose touches, spins and other things like this. Then her reward at the end of food!!!!! Good luck!

I had everything organized for my first litter except for this! When I finally got someone to get me some takeaway we had to rush to the vet. So I ate breakfast, then a cold burger about 10pm. I normally cannot last more than 4 hours without eating. So remember what u will need too.

Feedback it the key to really improve. This is why I love training as when something goes wrong the instructor can tell me what I was doing. I personally find most of my errors are because I turn my sholder too quickly, drop my arm or I am not changing my pace around the course so therefore I get too far in front because I don't have to baby sit her as much as I use to and I have not adjusted yet to this.

This is a very good point. For me the only problem translating from training to the ring is weaves!! I will practice with a few more jumps leading up to weaves, drive at the weaves, keeping my arm up until she is in the weaves and keep a consistent lateral distance from the weave poles. I think I need consistency, consistency, consitency. This is me more so than the dog, as then I can translate this to the ring which will hopefully help her. I welcome any other suggestions.

Thanks RS for sharing your video. I have been very interested in everyones suggestions as I have a similar problems - and funny enough also with my choc lab :laugh: We have problems with weave entries in comps. At ome when I practice from all angles and positions they are great! I think I am changing my position and posture in comps. I know whatever I am doing is putting pressure on her as she acts like she does not know what she is meant to do. I am thinking i also need to take this advice and practice a strongerand straight drive to the weaves.

I also go to Pine's Pet resort and have been sending my dogs here for years. I think they are fantastic. I did know they were selling. My dogs go into the kennels every year when we go on holidays, so hopefully the new owners are good. I remember when the current owners took over - they where the ones who did up the reception area.

In the forum Off Topic there is a sub topic Memebrs Marketplace, where DOL members can advertise good for sale. You need a certain amount of post to be able to post though (not sure how many).

Seems like it you post some pics in members marketplace you should be able to sell it no problems.

I would not this. Being you have had some success with the new food, try a probiotic and if it still a problem after a few days definitely to the vet.

It you are in Brisbane try here Good quality crates at great price. Can pick up or delivery.

Maybe they are calling them pure bred as the parent, or one of the parents has papers. Notice there is no picture of dad? Pure bred labs sold with ANKC pedigree papers parent must be hip and elbow scored. No other test are required but many breeder also test for PRA. This testing is why you want to buy a pedigree lab. If you puppy gets hip or elbow dysplacia this is big $ in vet bills, and pain for you dog. Good luck with finding a great puppy :D

Don't refer to myself as mum. However I call my girls "baby girl". (my boy gets called big boy not baby boy as he is so much bigger than the girls). I have one of my girls real fur mum.............so I say to her where your mummy. :laugh:

What a cutie :D

I would also love to know.

I think the key is consistency. Set the rules as a family, and enforce them. The joy of puppies is when they start to get alittle older and start to push the boundaries - they are working out if they really need to listen to you or not. A few months ago I have a word with my pup, who at the time was 9-10 months and told her "you will save us both alot of trouble if you just work out now you must do what I say!!!!". We had days where she would jump up on something she was not meant to be on, I would pull her off, she would jump back on, I would pull her off and so on (sometimes 3-4 times). However this only last a few weeks, now I say "off" and she gets off.

I would suggest contacting your breeder about his weight as they should be able to let you know if he is the right weight. Sometimes with puppies it is trial and error with food to work out the right amount. If he is fluffy are going to have to feel him, like the vet did, to watch his weight. You want to be able to feel his last rib, without pushing. Maybe increase his food and check him every few days to see how he is going. IMO I would not bother with the potato of pumkin. This are good filler is you want your dog to loose weight. I would also spread his food intake out more evently for all meal, while he is still so young. Regarding raw V's dry - so long as it is a balanced diet with all the nutrients needed for a growing puppy - you feed whatever you want!!

Another thing to try it putting the cords through piping.

I am not sure what is normal for a cav but my labs season vary from 6 to 7 months apart.