**Super_Dogs**

Sorry I had to laugh when I read this gotta love a lab who thinks you MUST FEED ME NOW Sound like Mr Gidds is starting to understand you exist beyond the food and his 'feeed meee nooow' plead isnt working. I think Mason spoilt you for expecting good manners ;) One of my girls was a manic feeder and I used the food to teach the word 'settle' - I would get dinner ready sit the dogs - feed immediately the ones who sat first and were quiet I'd tell the others to settle - my nut job Lab would sit, drool, fidget, whine and she did not get the food until she sat quietly. She was always fed last until she clicked that if she sat and shut up she would get fed first - bingo - the lights went on. Every Lab is an individual - you just have to work out the key to that little groover's brain - beyond the food. Now that you have Gibbs is starting to listen - give it a week or so - up the anti and require him to settle before you feed him. Worth a try. This is like my current pup. I have not got the whining - but she would jump around like a mad thing!!! When she was young I use to have to tell her to calm down. One day she jumped into a bucket of water. I also had to change her to a go slow bowel as she was just as mad while she was eating and was making herself sick. Sound like Gibbs may be a crazy food puppy like these girls!!! ;)

Like most others - I do not take my dogs to the dog parks. I do not see the need for my dogs to be able to run around and play with random dogs. For me, socialised is my dogs having good doggy manners when greeting other dogs and people on lead. Your dogs will get far more stimulation and enjoyment from short training activities. It makes them think and they get one on one time. My dogs love there few minutes one on one training time.

Don't forget your pup is a lab - generally food crazy!!!! He will eventually get it. My current lab pup when she was younger would some days have to wait for a few minutes because I would not put her food down until she was sitting nicely. I only needed to do this a few times and she she learnt. She still does not have the self control to wait when the bowel is down for me to release her (I use "eat" as my command)........but we will get there.

Mine are both pretty tuned in to me. I have to watch Trim with weaves though...if I am not prepared, she will "misread ;) " my cues to go do them. Shine used to be an AF suck but she seems to be over it. My girls LOVES the dog walk! In a competition I have plan the course and where I stand based around this. If she gets near it she is going up! She also loves the tunnel - use to be her favourite. The other night at training the tunnel was in a semi circle and the next piece of eqipment was behind. My girl ran out the tunnel, then straight back in, and round and round she went. I wonder how many times she would have kept going round and round through the tunnel......I stopped her at 3, so I think at least 4. She was having fun.

My labs raise their hackles freqently - including when playing.

Thanks for your replies.

I am just filling in my entry form for my first ANKC jumping comp. What classes should I enter? I would prefer to be in more than one event, Novice, but not sure what is appropriate?? I have been competing with ADAA, so not new to competeing, just new to ANKC. Have to get the enrty off this afternoon, so anyone who is online I would love you advice!!

I just voted "No". I have a rotty. If she ran out to kids on the street the only things she would do is knock them over with her bum as it would be wiggling so much with excitement . I cannot believe 53% have voted yes. Rotties have such a bad name and alot of people who don't like them have never actually met one before. I also have labs (stange combo I know!!), and people are very surprised when I tell them my rotty is friendlier than my labs.

Krustie - Is that the Metro comp? I though entries had closed????? I have not entered - I compete with ADAA and there is a comp the day before. But I was thinking I would come and have a look.

Well said. I totally agree!

Like others have said it all depends on your puppy. I do not think it is too early to start teaching stay and down. However you need to start with a basic criteria and slowly increase it. For example start rewarding for staying on the spot and slowly increase your distance. The biggest mistake I see is people challenging their puppy too quickly. My rule is if they fail once try again, if they fail again it is too challenging and I need to go back a step. While it is OK for your dog to fail, as they learn from this, you do not want them failing over and over. So yes start teaching stay and down, but it is going to some time before your puppy has the self control to stay in exiting situations. Also recommend the book from Clear Run. Fantasitc for anyone new to training or want to teach their dog than just sit/down/stay.

There are so many different criteria it is hard to know which one to use to train my pup. My current dog I am training was orginally trained 2o2o in a down position (this was the method they used at the time as the club I was at). She never really got the 2 off bit and will get into a down on the end of the contact. I tired to re-train her 2o2o but she was getting so confused so I thought why bother bother as what does it matter if she is 2 of of 4 on the floor!!! So we have our own criteria. She is consistent and knows her job so I am happy However I don't think I want to use this method for my pup. It seems different criteria are more successful for different breeds. I have labs - anyone experiemented with criteria for labs that can offer advice for my pup?

Why do you want the dog to drop? 2o2o generally means the dog stands with 2 front feet on the ground and 2 back feet on the contact obstacle. Good Point. You are right - I don't need to. When I was taught with my other dog (I was learning myself) it was into a down position at the end of the contact. My new pup I am teaching with a target - as I have not been entirely happy with the drop.

Interesting conversation about targets. I have been teaching my pup to touch a target to eventually use for 2o2o on contacts. She is going very well. I put her in a sit stay, release her and she drives and touches the target (a blue container lid). She is even driving away from me How do I now introduce a drop when she touches the target?

Sounds like you have nothing to worry about. Unfortunetly I went through a fracture with our pup when she was 11 weeks old and trust me you would know if you pup had done some damage!!! I have "Puppy Rules" I give to new owners to go through with their kids and put on the fridge. One is not to pick puppy up. If you want a cuddle mum or dad will put puppy on your lap while you are sitting.

This is exactly something my rotty would do.....including the fart!!!!!!!!!!!!!

This is great. Thanks for sharing . When was this last updated?

I am a big fan on Sentail Specrum and Inteceptor. One chew once a month and all done!! I have compared the price of buying all the products seperate and it is no different.

My guess is you will still need to join an obedience club as you need an assessment. In my council there is a form they fill in, marking off all the required activities (sit, long stay etc) which you send to the council. Recently my council has introduced a life long concession for certain level title in obedience, agility or jumping with either ANKC or ADAA. This is great Hey buddy1, where in QLD is that? I didnt know this existed anywhere, and one night after a few wines my mum an I started on about how great it would be if councils offered subsidised fees for trained dogs! Its a bit disappointing that all councils don't take this approach! I am especially surprised a council like Brisbane council doesn't offer anything like this. It is Moreton Bay Regional Council. Last year they made alot of changes as they had three different rules from when it was three different councils. if you don't compete you can still do the test, but when you achieve a certain title it is discount for the life of the dog!! I have been pretty impressed with the changes.

I was particularly impressed they are also recognising ADAA title - which is great for me as this who I compete with. They have got alot tougher enforcing the rules, but before they did this made sure they where realistic and fair through alot of consultation. For example they are getting tough on breeders without a permit (council permit that it), but they provide a great consession for entire dogs having a breeders permit.

I think there are some easy things you can start doing straight away. Firstly stick to your rules. If they break them there should be a consequence. I personally find time out works. The other thing is take the dogs out one at a time, not together, to work on their behaviour in public and be armed with lots of treats. Start in an environment with not too much stimulation. Good luck!

My guess is you will still need to join an obedience club as you need an assessment. In my council there is a form they fill in, marking off all the required activities (sit, long stay etc) which you send to the council. Recently my council has introduced a life long concession for certain level title in obedience, agility or jumping with either ANKC or ADAA. This is great

Very exciting!!! I do not put my puppy alone with my adult dogs unsupervised for many weeks. At first only have them together when you are supervising. When you feel they are getting along well and feel 100% comfortable, then leave them alone together. For some people this is days, for others it is weeks or months.

Am loving these leads My girl is not a tugger - but I still want one as they are so beautiful.

Thanks Vickie. I am sure I have something to do with it. I have to pay more attention to what I do/say at home and mirror that at training.