**Super_Dogs**

The price will vary from $1000 to $1500. I agree with experiencedfun. Yes you can get a puppy for a few hundred cheaper than this, but the quality of the litter and support provided by the breeder is more important.

Martingale and limited slip collars are different. Check out this site - it has both and you can see the difference. Collars You can also get martingale and limited slip leads/collars (one piece). I use Martingale collars. They are just a variation of a flat collar that provided a bit of give for when your puppy pulls. Hope this helps

And what a gorgeous lot they are! Thanks I am loving this thread! Just love group photos.

My lot! :D

Check out Members Marketplace. frenzied1 is selling Junior Tuffies.

Sounds like you should just keep doing that you are doing!! My Rotty is on the smaller side - but I prefer it that way as she is big and stong enough for me.

If he is a good weight don't change the amount of food you are feeding him. The guide on the bag is just that - a guide. How much a dog eats is not just based on weight, but also how active they are and these guide can't account for these other factor. I have a Rotty, and my vet gave me the best advice when she was a pup. He told me do not allow her to become overweight, even just a little bit. This is really important to help avoid any hip/elbow issues as they get older. I judge how much to feed my dogs by how they look. So this is sometimes trial and error - amount if he is looking to slim - up the amount or Vise Versa. Remember when he stops growing to will probably need to decrease the amount you are feeding him.

I had a similar situation and we where getting complaints from the neighbours. I think blocking the fence for visability helps, but to stop the behaviour you need to get the dog away from the fence. So in addition to blocking visability do you have room to put up a temporary fence (that puppy fence in a wire roll and star pickets) about 1 metre inside the exisitng fencing?

Maybe go back a step. Firstly you want you dog to sit and stay still for whatever it is you are doing - putting a collar on, looking at their ears/eyes etc. If it was me this is what I would do. Start with a clip collar, get your dogs to sit and put on the clip collar. Reward. Unclip collar and Repeat. When this is going well, still using the clip collar but make it so it is very loose to easily slip over the dogs head. As above clip on collar and reward. This time instead of unclipping the collar take if off over the dogs head. Reward and repeat. Start with the collar very loose and then slighly make tighter as the martingale would be. When all is going well taking it off change to the Martingale and try putting on rewards then take it off. Then the last thing is for the dog to associate fun things with having the collar on. So put the collar on and maybe give the dog something great, like a bone or a fun game. Then take the collar off. Good luck

There are several things you can try. Some puppies take long to get it and can require more firm handling. You will just have to try and work out what works best for you and your puppy. - Telling the puppy to be gentle and praising when for not biting - Responding to the bite with a high pitch "ouch" - Telling the puppy "no biting" and stop play with them - Telling the puppy "no biting" with a firm but gentle grab around the scruff of the neck and stop play with them I have had puppies where I did not have to even get to "no" where my current puppy now 7 months I had to (and have to for alot of things) be fairly firm. Good luck :-)

I would not be worried this. There are some breeder who do not let puppies go until 10-12 weeks. If the pup does have any bad habits, which there would not be many at this age, this can very easily and quickly be fixed. Puppies learn so quickly An advantage of a 13 week old puppy is it is likely to settle in quicker being just that little bit older.

Sorry to hear I unfortunetly went through a situation this year when one of my pups got a diseases and died when only 14 weeks old. She was my favourite from the litter. I am still sad when I think about it or look at the pictures of the litter The vet who treated the puppy told the owner it was genetic. Needless to say I was very worried I arrange to speak to the vet who treated the puppy and he told me I have nothing to worry about and when I asked him about being genetic he did not having evidence to back this. Turns out it was just very very unlucky. Why did he say it then!!!! Very frustrating. My vet assured me I have nothing to worry about. So maybe......in time you will get more information and then can then decide if you will breed again. At first the situation is so upsetting for all involved that it can be hard to get the real facts and think straight.

I think if you can be with your pup for a long weekend this is enough. I usually take a long weekend, but this is more so for me than the pup You will want to feed your pup in the morning before you head off to work. Puppies get up very early, and also it will have been a long time since dinner so your pup will be very hungy! You may want to put lunch in kongs, treat calls etc??? I agree you do not want to leave your puppy unsupervised with your other dog at first. When you are comfortable they are playing nicely and safely togethe then you can put them together. Some people do not put their pup with their other dog for some time as the pup annoys the other dog! Good luck

Metal crate was definetly the right choice :D

I have also found pethomes to be great price and great quality. If you dog crate trained? If not you may be best getting a metal crate (can also get these from pet homes). The fabric ones are fantastic, but if you dog scratches and bites at it the crate will easily be damages and you dog wil escape. I have also know dogs able to unzip them. Also, if it is going to be a permanent fixture outside I would say the metal crate will last longer. I personally have both, the metal crates are up at home, and I use then for crate training, and the fabric crates are in the car for training and comps.

A few months ago I did some shopping around for pet insurance and every one I looked at (which I think was most of them), except Pet Plan, was underwritten by Hollard. This is what they all changed to 80% cover.

I am by no means an expert on this subject, but I have several labs, each which have been raised differently as a pup so I will share my experiences. My first labs, which was our second dog, spent all his time as a puppy with the other dog. This was many years ago so I did not know any different. He became highly attached to the other dog to the point that I could not take the other dog and leave him at home as he would cry and carry on. I did take the other dog out from when he was young to try to avoid this but it did not help any. He was very attached and all his value was the other dog. The next dog also spent all her time with the other dogs however the difference with this one is I spent more time one on one training with her. So although she loves the other dogs she see me as high value. The next edition was alittle different as she had an accident as a pup and had to be seperated from the other dogs as she could not play. So whenever we where out she was crated. This also meant I spent ALOT of time one on one with her, as she could not run around. I can see a big difference with her. While she loves the other dogs, I am definetly high value. Also she can be alittle more independent - from a young age she was happy to wonder around the yard by herself. My first dog would not go anywhere without his mate!! So, next time.......... I will keep my pup seperated for some time each day from the other dogs for several months while they are young so they do not grow too attached to the other dogs. I will also spend time each day one on one with the pup playing and training to build a stong bond and high value for me. Hope this helps!

I agree fluffy goldens can sometimes look bigger than they actually are. My mum’s golden is like this I would start with reducing the number of meals per day. It is recommended to feed a puppy 2 meals a day until they are 12 months while they are growing, and then after this if you choose, just feed you dog 1 meal a day. I would also ditch the porridge as it is offering no added nutritional value. So just your biscuits and meat twice a day. If she is still not eating both meals, just feed her once a day. Hope this helps .........Megans post came though while I was posting and it seems we have some of the same ideas..........

I have to agree with this. From my experience emergency vets have standard pricing. Yes the bill may be more, but this is cecause they will do more tests, instead of just waiting.......which they would doo when they are trying to keep the costs down. I have pet insurance for all my dogs. Some dogs I have not claimed anything for, others I have claimed more than enough to make it worthwhile for the ones that I have not claimed for!!

I am so sorry for you and Patches. I have not been through your experience but I would like to say that you should try not to play over "what ifs" and as it sounds like there was nothing you could do.

I have been going to Everton Park Vet on South Pine Road Everton Park for 8 years. My mum also goes here. You know it is a good vet when you dog is excited to be there Is about 10 mins from Ferny Hills.

I have not personally experienced this but my sister has with her dog. Her dog would do this as she skin was irritated. She gets like this when she has just one flea and also from food. She has very senstive skin. Have a look at your pups skin and see if it looks irritated.

This was also my bible!!!

That is fantastic news. Fingers cross for a continued and speedy recovery.

I agree! When I was preparing for my first litter I read so much, and often information is conflicting as there are so many different opinions. I brought myself a couple of great books which where my bible :-)