**Super_Dogs**

I agree that if he behaves just keep him inside. One of my girls is inside all day (because she gets into the neighbours yard) and then when I get home she stays inside as she wants to be with me. I always think she must want to be outside - but I leave the door open when I am home and she chooses to stay inside with me.

Thanks - that's what I'm hoping, but just want to make sure. I know that both my dogs are capable of killing a rat, so I need to know if they can be affected just by killing it, but not eating it. Did your dogs kill the rat and mouse that you found? I have not idea if they killed it. My youngest dog picked it up, so I don't know if she killed it earlier of just found it. We have had a big rate problem recently (not just me, my mum also a few suburbs away). They love dog food and they have chewed through several plastic rubbish bin in our garage to get to the dog food. Little buggers! My only concern with rats is ensuring the dogs to not get to the baits.

I personally would not be worried. I have found a dead rat and a dead mouse in my yard before. Maybe if the dogs had eaten some of the rat (YUK) you may have reason for concerm as the rat could have been poisoned.

You get 4 panels in a pack. The rectangular, so you can get more width than height it needed. At a guess I could say they are 80cm (this is a big guess). I used zip ties to join the panels and then to create a gate I joined two panels with old clips from leads (I have alot as one of my girls chews through leads). Worked well!!

I have another idea instead of buying a gate. I have several baby gates for my normal size doors, but my entry to the lounge area is too wide. I only need a temporary set up so instead of buying a wider baby gate I have used the panels from a puppy pen. I put several panels together and then use furniture on either side to secure it in place. So on one side the fence is behind a canbinet and the other side I have use an otterman. It has worked for me When are are home I pull one of the panel connectors out and I have a gate.

My destrcutive pup also loves my leather sofa! She chewed a massive big hole in it. She has been a very expensive puppy.

For the railings I would use puppy fence or bunnings compost cages link and attach it with zip ties. I did this around my pool fence when I had a litter and they could fit through the bars. You will also be able to use the compost cage to block off the top of the stairs next to the ramp. These compost cages are very handy and also cheaper than they puppy cages from the pet stores. I have several packs that I use to create an outside pen for my litters.

I like the idea of the indoor pet fence JulesP posted - however I know my lot would just knock it over! This child gate also from deals direct Link is definetly wide enough. Not sure about the material it is made out of though for dogs as i am sure some dogs would scatch at it.

One of my dogs would do this - but only in an area where there was no fence. He would run and jump as he went through the zone (who knows why he would jump). As we purchased a product with reps and a guarantee they came to our home and we worked though some solutions. Problem solved. I would presumme if the dog could get a run up and jump straight over the fence they may work throught the pain to get out. However I would not think if the dog had to scale/climb the fence they would not get out as they have to stay in the zone too long. My boy certainly has never got out over the fences which he does get over if the containment system is not on. I personally think if you are going to go down this path you need to make sure you are getting a good product, with reps that can come to your house if it is not working. Also some of the cheaper system run off a different fequency which can be interupted/affected (this is what i was told anyway).

During whelping I lined the box (on top of the lino) with lot of old sheet and towels, which I then threw away. During whelping I had to change these a few times. After whelping I changed to the vetbed straight away. I was worried the pups would get caught up in the sheets/towels. As I am in Qld we did not have to worry about heating. While the pups where young I changed the vetbed every 48 hours, then as they got bigger daily, then twice daily. When the pups got bigger and I had extended their pen to a large area they did not spend much time on the vetbed so I went back to changing it daily.

I don't know but I would have thought if it says it does not the box it does! Maybe contact the manufacturer? I would be interested to hear what they say.

I have used Dogwatch hidden fence with great success. However this is not the cheapest on the market - probably the most expensive - but most suppliers have a money back guarantee. Regarding the batteries going flat just check the collar regularly as even if they do go flat it usually takes the dog several days to work out it is not working.

Sounds like you are doing the right thing. I also go for bribes!!! The general idea is that the dog thinks the crate is a better place to be. If you are going to continue putting your dog in the crate when people are over (which I think is great for young children or non dog people) I would regulary put your dog in the crate for periods when you are home so your dog gets use to spending time in there. If you want to work on your dogs crate training get Susan Garrets DVD Crate Games which is about building value. Is not too expensive and worth every cent!

One of my girl's seasons are textbook, but my youngest just had her first season and it was unusual. She was 9 months which was a surprise as her mums first season was 14 months and her grandmother 12 months. Her season was as follows. Stage one Proestrus was normal with light bleeding, Stage 2 Estrus was also normal, stage 3 Diestrus Stage there was no bleeding. Has anyone experience no bleeding in this stage? The swelling went down about the time is should have for a full normal season. As stage 1 bleeding was very light could it be she is just a very light bleeder and she have kept herself so clean that I did not notice? Any thoughts?

I agree they are huge! Dalmations are pretty tall though and when you dog is fully grown you want your dog to be able to sit without hitting its head. I have heard some people put a divider in while your pup is small. You do not want you pup to have too much extra space as sometime this results in them toileting in the crate. I did not use a divider, but I did fill the space with blankets and a large stuffed toy to make if very cosy. FYI - buy your crate online as they are about half the price than a petstore. I got my wire crates online for about $100 each. I was like you and did not really see the benefit of crate training. I am totally convereted! It is the best thing ever! Fantastic to help with tiolet training. I highly recommend Susan Garrett's DVD 'Crate Games'. It provided training to so you pup will love the crate. Her method really does work! My pup is now 10 months and she does not spend much time in her crate any more. However it is a life long thing and it means that you will be able to take you puppy/dog places with you for day trips and overnight and will be able to put you dog in their crate and know they will not stress. I find that whee we are away from home my dogs are far more relaxed when they are in their crate. When I put the crate up they are so eager to get in - it is their safe place where they can relax.

I used cheap lino on the floor, then newspaper with vetbed on top. I brought 3 vetbeds the exact size of the whelping box. Love vetbed!!

I also would not buy a puppy that is not interested in human contact. I do not have the same breed but at seven week my last litter loved human attention and as therefor I could not sit on the ground with them all at this age - Puppy attack Even if they had just had a big play and where tired there would always be a few of the puppies (the more social ones) that would get up and come over to see me. As for my bitch - she was more demanding for attention from vistors that normal. One lady when she came over had my bitch pulling on her pants for attention - she had never done this before!! Like others have mentioned, maybe the pups have not had alot of human contact.

I also asked friends and family to collect their papers. I had a lovely lady at work that got the paper every day! Also I collected the office papers - we get several papers every single day. We did ask the newsagent as we know the owner - but he said they have to send the papers back. However even with everyone collecting papers for us we did run out. I used so much! So next time I am going to have to start collecting papers earlier and find more people to help us collect!

Like others I do not mind the dogs going nuts when I get home. However I do not accept them jumping on me. My older dogs are fine, but my younger dog (10 months) still ocassionally jumps, mouths and pulls on my clothes. I have to ignore her and will not talk to her or pat her until she is sitting. She is slowly getting it. My oldest dog now has fantastic manner - she sit and waits for me near the door. However this took alot of work. When she was a pup she would get so excited jumping around that it would hurt me. I had to physically restrain her and would not let go until she was calm.

I agree this is tall for a lab. My girl is also about 27kg and is 53cm (she has been measured for agility). She is very lean and has long legs - which is perfect for agility!! My boy on the other hand is just a fraction taller but weights 38kg. He is a stocky boy with short legs. His build is not cut out for agility.

My council rewards good owners with registration discounts for a certain level of obedidence. Only for entire dogs as desexed dogs are only $25 (entire dog registration is normally approx $80 and you get about $20 discount - I think it should be more discount!!!). To get the discount you need to do an annual test by an obedience club or a life long discount for certain odedience or agility titles achieved. They only recently introduced the life long discounts for titles.

I am new to breeding. I have always been into dogs, and grew up with show dogs. My breed of choice is different to that I grew up with. It was actually my second dog of my breed of choice that really cemented my love of the breed. When I picked my bitch I picked her with the intent I 'may' breed one day so I spent alot of time finding her. I did not make up my mind to breed with her until she was almost 2. I do not show, I train and compete in agility. So while conformation is important it was her temperament and ability to work which was the factors that made my final decision she is the right bitch for breeding. Unfortunetly the breeder of my bitch is in another state. Luckily the owner of the stud dog we used for the first litter was very helping. Also I have an excellent vet in which I have been taking my dogs to for about 7 years prior to my first litter which was always available to help! I brought a stack of books and before my first litter I spent some time with the vet where he went through what to expect, what I need to do and i asked him lots of questions. I would not have benn able to do it without my vet!

I also have trouble with waiting for my pups to wait until told to eat. I personally do not worry about this too much when they are young as it comes in time. I just increase what I expect over about a 6 month period. I start with not jumping around, then sitting, then waiting until bowel hits the ground, the finally waiting until told to eat. To help with gently I would practice leave with food in your hand. You can have a dog that is great waiting for food in a bowel, but they still may not be gently from your hand.

I agree with other - you need a strong recall. Your pup is still a baby, so it is probably a bit too much to ask of her at this stage. Sounds like your pup need to be on a long lead until she learns not to run off. You do not want her getting into bad habits. Another technique is to build strong value for being with you. Good luck!!

I have also been here. Firtly you want to teach your dog restraint - so that she waits until you present the food to her and she is not lunging. I start training my pups this this by putting several pieces of food in my hand and telling my pup to leave it. If they go for the food I close my hand making a fist. When they move away from the food I then open my hand again. When your dog is waiting (or looking away) give them a piece of food from your hand. Repeat this a few time and repeat daily. This should then help with the lunging. To help with gently I hold the food in my fingers (all not just 2) but have the food so none is slicking out. Like Minxy said is she lunges pull the food away. I then hold the food at their mouth - what normally happens is they try to use their teeth - do not release the food. I wait until they use their tonge and then open my fingers so they can get the food. Hope this helps. Lisa.