Dxenion

Met a lady who wanted to email me for more information about our White Swiss Shepherd Dog puppy as she'd never heard of them before. On a scrap of paper she wrote down the breed (as a reminder for herself) and then handed the paper to me so I could write my email address. Had to look twice at what she wrote: Right Swizz Shephead Maybe I need to enunciate better..........

I posted this about the reliability of supply in another thread: Explains why it was so hard to get and that supplies are only just now filtering back through the chain. Hadn't heard anything about it being available in supermarkets - would've thought it would be too expensive for that market.

I know this is going to sound a little silly but it worked for us. When first starting a course of tablets, I make a big show of getting the tablet out of the fridge (no I don't store them in there but it is where the furkid's dinner comes from and they know it). I then make a big deal of showing them the tablet and then pretending to start eating it myself. They are always super keen to see what I'm eating and usually want some of it too so I play up to this. When they get so worked up that they start drooling, I share a bit of my 'food' with them. Result - one tablet gone and they're back looking for more. Now I just have to go to the fridge, start 'snacking' on a tablet and then share it with them. Works every time!

I am teaching our pup heeling at the moment but trying something different from methods I have been taught in the past. So far it is working a treat and we aren't using a leash. We are still in the first stages but basically what I'm doing is before meal times, I go for a walk around the backyard with some biscuits in my left hand which is by my left side. Puppy can smell the biscuits and is naturally walking right next to me trying to sniff my hand. Every single time he is in the correct position, I mark the position by saying 'heel', then give him a biscuit. Repeat, repeat, repeat...... The idea is that initially the hand position is the cue to walk at heel and then by pairing it with a word, eventually the word becomes the cue. Most trainers say that when the dog can perform the cue 10 times in a row, you're ready for the next stage. The next stage is to mark the position and praise but not always give a treat. After that, You start increase the time between word cues so that eventually the word said just once has the dog heeling. When the dog is responding to the word cue, you can start to move your hand away from your side. I've read that at this stage some people reposition the hand near their face to get the dog looking at you for competiton heeling but I have no experience with this, it's just what I've read. Once the dog is heeling around the yard, then add the leash. Repeat the process. The idea is the dog is already heeling, the leash is just there because the law says we have to. Next move to the front yard and go through the process again. Keep repeating the process, gradually adding more distractions until you're ready to go for a walk at heel. Other methods include acting like a tree if the dog moves ahead of you (takes a while to get results) or suddenly walking in the opposite direction. The idea is that the dog is running ahead doing it's own thing and suddenly gets to the end of the leash. He looks around and sees you walking the other way so he runs to catch up. Usually the first few times you do this, the dog will overshoot you so you do an immediate about turn and walk the other way again. Until he gets it, you may look like you're imitating a duck in a shooting gallery but perseverence is the key. The process is repeated until the dog is walking next to you with one eye on you. When he is in this position, he gets rewarded so that the position is reinforced. Kikopup has some great YouTube videos on dog training. This is Kikopup's video about that shows yet another method.

We're crate training at the moment too. To avoid developing any separation issues from the start, we have crates set up in each of the main rooms we use during the day and one in our bedroom at night. Our dogs sleep in the bedroom with us (in their own bed) and the pup has had his own crate in there from the first night. We've found that by making the crate a wonderful place to be using the ideas other posters have suggested, the pup is eager to go in there and when we move about the house, the pup moves from crate to crate too. Yes it's a hassle to start with but he'll eventually graduate to beds or his 'spot' and we'll end up with another well adjusted dog. For now, he is more than happy to be in there, as long as he's with us. The crate acts as his place to go to and we can reinforce him staying there by closing the door if he looks like he wont stay there by himself. By using this method we are not setting him up to fail, something that could happen if he were free rein to run loose in the house without supervision. We are now starting the process of leaving the room for short periods while he remains behind in the closed crate. At first it was only 10 seconds, then 30 seconds but now we are up to a couple of hours without a whimper. Each time we return to the room, we initially ignore the pup and act as if everything is completely normal, waiting until he is settled and calm before we open the door again. That way he wont associate us returning with him coming out. In time, the crate in the bedroom will be replaced with a big dog's bed, the lounge crate will go and he will graduate to the Lofa with the other dogs and for the other rooms, he will learn to chill out in his own special spot. A few questions: Have you tried lures to get him to go into the crate in the first place? Some DOLers are not a fan of this but I figure that if you can get the dog to do a behaviour because he wants to and then reward for it, why not? We asked our breeder to assist with crate training as we wanted him to see it as a happy place because he had a 52 hour flight ahead of him in it. Our breeder used our pup's favourite toy as a lure to start with. During play time over a few days, she threw the toy next to the crate opening. Then she threw the toy just inside the crate, then right inside. Then she always put the toy in there. From luring the pup into the crate in an excitable state, he would then look to the crate to find his toy and over time, withdrew to the crate to chew on it and eventually fall asleep in there. Can you use a toy or his dinner as a lure so that he really wants to go in there? Is there a reason the dog cant sleep in his crate in your room to start with? Is it your long term goal to have the dog sleep in the laundry? If so, you could start out with the crate next to your bed and gradually move it towards the laundry, or another way is to set up a bed for you next to his laundry crate and over a few nights (using your dog's reaction as a guide), slowely move your bed away from his crate until you are outside the room. Not a comfortable option for you in the short term but it can have years of benefit if done right. Are you able to set up temporary crates in the main rooms in your house? In time, you can reduce the number of crates or even swap them for beds if you wish but for now it will give him a familiar space in each room that has amazing treats he can enjoy and still be able to see you. If you have a home office, can you set up a crate right next to your desk to start with? That way your pup can be in his crate right next to you to start with and you can give him lots of praise every time he is calm in there. Once he is comfortable in the crate next to you, slowely move the crate over to another part of the room. That way he is still with you, getting praise for calm behaviour in the crate but he will not be under your feet. In time, swap the crate for the blanket that is currently in the crate. Hope this helps. If it's as clear as mud, please let me know.

Years ago we trialled our dogs on chicken mince as part of their diet. I distinctly remember the very first night we fed it to them. After we all retired to bed and shut the door (the dogs slept in the bedroom with us), both dog's digestive systems went to work, churning out SBDs until we woke up at 3 am gasping for air. Imagine raw chicken meat that has been sealed in a container and then left in a warm humid place for about 5 days, then imagine opening the container in your car - it sort of comes close to the smell that permeated the wallpaper that night! It was only marginally satisfying to see that both dogs had their noses right up against the gap under the door - at least we weren't suffering alone. The smell was so bad it almost had a green haze to it. We spent a good 15 minutes looking for the non existing physical evidence because I couldn't fathom that a smell that ....er..... fragrant could just be bad air. The next night, chicken mince was off the menu and we installed a baby gate for airflow. What did we learn from this experience? Before altering their diet, consider if we are prepared for the consequences!

Photo and videos added to my post. Hope they help.

Rather than use an elizabethan collar, try a Novaguard from Provizor Australia We just bought one to trial on our dogs (handy to have it just in case). It is a cinch to put on: you assemble it, then just slip it over their head and tighten the chin strap - done! It has three score lines so that you can adjust the length of the cone and it also has a further width adjustment at the neck. As it is not as wide as an E Collar, they can manoeuver about far easier. Edited to add photos and video. Hope this helps. The Novaguard Large: Novaguard mirror image (shows how it sits on the head and the width of the fitted cone): A quick video showing how to put it on:

Hi, Found them here at Vebo Pet Supplies: During your search, if you hear of anyone selling two of the 42" crates which are slightly smaller than what you're after, could you please me know as we're chasing them as well (Vebo don't have the 42" in stock at the moment but they do have the 48" you're after). Good luck with the op, our thoughts are with your boy.

What about Habilooc (Coolibah backwards)?

Only 6 hours to go until our White Swiss Shepherd Dog 17 week old pup lands at the airport after a 30 day stint in Quarantine. This is the last photo of him in Quarantine - the next photos will be of him meeting his new family!

The ones in the first photo are made of very soft wood and don't stand up to GSD puppy teeth. We also found that if constantly exposed to damp weather, they can get mouldy on the walls. As the walls are in a log cabin style (ie not a flat surface), there are more nooks and crannies for the mould to gather in. I wouldn't use a Karcher or similar to clean it as the cedar colouring comes off under pressure. They are a great looking cabin available in various sizes but I'd recommend them for a dog that doesn't chew and that that you locate the kennel under the patio. We ended up selling them because our lot (on the rare occasion they were outside) all tried to fit into the one kennel, leaving the others empty. To see a tail, front paw, hind leg and head of a dog hanging out the door (and all of them were parts of different dogs) reminded me of a clown act where 15 of them get into a mini! Still don't know how the dogs managed it and it can't have been comfortable. That's why we bought the second one which they can all fit into easily but never use .........

May we have a photo please? It sounds like a great kennel.

We use Eagle Pack Holistic Select Fish for allergy reasons and started looking around for an alternative when stock became unreliable. So far, the Canidae grain free salmon is the only other product that is safe for us (well the dog actually!). I contacted the WA Canidae distributor and asked him if the grain free salmon was irradiated (after reading about the cat food chaos) and he told me it was not irradiated. He also said that their products are Ethoxyquin, BHA, BHT and melamine free. This week, I contacted Eagle Pack and asked them about the supply problems. They told me that because they made health claims, an authority (can't remember which one he said) has forced them to substantiate their claims. This process took some time, during which supplies were affected. He said it's all been completed now but the other players (he mentioned Canidae) will also have to undergo the same proof of claim process. At least we now know why Eagle Pack supplies were unreliable.

Has anyone recently flown a giant crate under the new regulations. If so, what arrangements were made as the crate is 3 cm over Qantas height limits?

Hi, Despite our best efforts and a massive phone bill (eeeek!), we weren't able to find anything. So that he didn't miss out on socialisation, we hired a fantastic dog visitor who visited him the maximum 4 days a week and emailed regular photos and videos of him. He has grown so much in just 4 weeks. He finishes quarantine on Sunday and will fly to Perth that afternoon. I can't wait to meet him - only 2 days to go. Looks like we may have sorted out a rental property, unfortunately just not in time to settle him into it. We'll drive across to Sydney with our fur family and that way we can get a photo of him in front of all the 'big things' like the big Galah, big Roo, big Ram etc (it's a bit of a fur family tradition). We had the vet go out and give him his 3rd vaccination (C5). We could've waited until he came out (and saved ourselves a fair bit of money) but this way he's had 14 days clear so he's now fully protected from Parvo and we can introduce him to Australia. 17 weeks old - his last play in the exercise yard at Eastern Creek Quarantine (look at those uncoordinated ears!): Thank you to all from this thread and those who PM'd me with your ideas. It didn't end up working out the way we wanted (not for lack of trying) but I appreciate the input.

Timber - insulating properties, easier to repair if it gets chewed. We've had a few over the years but they rarely use them as they're usually inside with us. These ones are great as they have a lift out floor for easy cleaning, the flat roof has non skid surface for those dogs who like to lie on the roof and it has a hinge to hold it up. As the door is offset, it gives them more protection from the elements. Got this one so they could all fit into it (they prefer to sleep together). We put braked castors on it so it's a cinch to move around. Comes in raw timber so you can paint/ stain it whatever colour you like. The roof slides forward to provide a verandah but you would need to be able to secure it to the body as it can come off in strong winds. You can slide the roof right back for access to the inside. Made the sign myself.

Another great idea! Will follow it up and post results here for that too. Thanks.

Thanks for the information. I've contacted Mike and although he doesn't currently stock it, he will try and source some and let me know. I'll post the information here.

Does anyone know where to get pet meat/ mince (goat) for around $2.50 per kg as well as goat bones in the Nowra region or Sydney. Don't want to pay resturaunt quality prices for it as we will be buying 100 kgs of mince and approx 6 frames per order. Apologies if this is a repeat thread, a quick search couldn't find another that specifically mentions goat. Edited to add that we will even consider travelling to Canberra for it if the price is right.

Our lot seem to specialise in positions that might require the services of a chiropractor down the track. Firstly, our headless German Shepherd (slept this way from the day we brought him home): The 'Head one way, twist the spine, butt the other way' position: The 'Can't fight gravity' position: The "I could really use a pillow" position: Just to think he started out like this: I did actually get a photo of them all sleeping normally in their beds one night: I'm expecting plenty more photos when our new pup arrives on Sunday.

We submitted a pet resume for each dog from: http://www.petfriendlyrentals.com.au/resources/pet-resume/ This site also includes a free download which helps filter through all the rental property ads, highlighting ones that may be missed in a general search. We found our new rental property using that tool. We were also advised to check homes that didn't mention pets as they may consider your application. In your dog's pet resume, include as much detail as you can about the dog and remember to highlight your dog handling/ training experience as well. We were told that the property manager looks for evidence that the dog is not a mobile garden ornament, has a significant role in your family, has had training (preferably beyond sit/ down and stay) and is well catered for with bedding etc. They want to know what you will do with the dog if you have to go out without it. Brownie points includes references (verbal and written if you can get them) from current and previous neighbours, a letter of reference from your vet (to show how you manage your dog's health) and even a statement from the council stating that there have been no reports made against the dog. It builds up a picture of a responsible dog owner with a well adjusted dog that is an integral part of the family. They are looking for reasurance that you are going to look after the house and not let your dog eat it. It also helps to offer a pet bond and offer to bring your dog to the inspection so that the manager can meet it. A photo of your dog looking at it's endearing best will also help. Who could resist this? Getting the first rental is the hardest bit but if you are a great tenant, a reference from your current property manager will make it much easier to get the next place.

Moved

I think it comes down to your home, the breed and temperament of the dog, your lifestyle, your experience with dogs and your financial capacity. We have 3 GSDs at the moment and will be joined by our 17 week old WSSD on Sunday. Each dog has it's own distinct personality and energy levels, although our laid back GSDs would be happy to be permanent lounge lizards if we'd let them. I work with them full time and keeping them mentally active is very important. A bored shepherd equals a destroyed house and I think our landlord would be most displeased if I let that happen. We wouldn't want any more as it is a nice balance of ages and you can take two out for training and leave two behind. If I had a job away from home, we wouldn't have this many as I don't think I would have the time to keep them all happy. Our lifestyle revolves around the furkids and every thing we do we regard as a training opportunity - even feeding time. We find it easy to keep four in line but I wouldn't want to hand over 4 to a first time dog owner.

We desexed our two male GSDs (one was 4 1/2, the other was just shy of 3) at the same time after receiving permission from the breeder. Neither had been used at stud. The only problem we had was when one boy experienced severe and prolonged swelling after the op - he looked like he had a couple of kiwi fruit hanging between his legs. The vet examined him over a period of 3 weeks and told me that during the operation they noted he had a tough sheath which took a bit to cut through - made my eyes water when she said that. If I understood the vet correctly, because the sheath was thicker and they had to do more to close it, the blood flow was more restricted flowing out of the sack, slowing the reduction in swelling. For 3 weeks we had to keep him dry, very quiet and not let him lick the wound. Sure was fun having two GSD sized bucketheads in the home - my shins may never recover. He did take about two weeks longer than the other male but both recovered fully. It took a few months for the skin to shrink (the vet said up to 12 months) but our boys were barely noticable just four months later. No other negative issues to report.