siks3

What is a "level 9 correction"? What article did you copy and paste that from - it wasn't in the Leerburg article you linked to? click on the ebook on the same page. Sounds like many of you don't know even how to correct a dog or the levels involved I don't know about you but a full strength correction from me and I'm an average built guy would never seriously hurt a dog. A leash correction is only using the lower part of your arm not your whole body. I have yet to ever have a fully grown large dog wince in pain to a very hard correction from myself. I have had dogs of shy temperaments shut down for a moment but they bounce back with a bit of encouragement. I and my parents have ran the RSPCA animal shelter in Burnie tasmania many years ago. I and my father have trained a lot of dogs with different temperaments from shy to aggressive and yes I have been bitten a few times over the years but at the end of the day I have always achieved results. me and my father have saved alot of dogs from being PTS. Back then I never even used treats in my training but over the years I have learned different things and I am still learning. As I stated before It was only an idea of probably many methods that would work.

I also quite like this idea... Both these articles give me a very different feel to your post. There are only 4 kinds of training collars: a flat collar, a prong collar, a dominant dog collar and a remote collar - which one you use depends on the dogs temperament and training level. Frankly for this I would be using a prong or a remote collar. That is copied and pasted from the article. And to me a level 9 correction is as hard as I can. I stand by my original post it was only an idea on what works and what has worked for me it's a free country you can all do what you like same as me. My dog I have at the moment requires only a light correction for most things but for this type of thing I did go to a very hard correction simply because my dog was over stimulated by the new items and didn't listen to the first one.

I will bold that bit for the people who aren't getting my point. I have never abused a dog in my life and giving a hard correction appropriate to the dogs temperament is not abusive in my book. All you so called trainers telling me my method and one that is advised by a renowned dog trainer is dangerous explain to me and the OP why it is and what the problem with it is. I like hearing other peoples ideas and opinions. Otherwise just shut up.

Wow, I guess I don't know any proper trainers, then, since I don't think I know any trainers who would advise that. You probably don't. What would your trainer advise distract the dog with a cookie When a dog does something it is not supposed to do a correction is needed pretty simple really. I told the OP to get advise from a good trainer and not to attempt the above alone. It was only given as an example of what has worked for me and to back it up I put in a link from the leerburg website that states something similar. The method does work I have used it on all my dogs when I have had small children. Time to start treating dogs like dogs people all this over complicating things is really a joke. Dog training in the last 15 years has gone to pieces. My opinion is you can not train a dog properly without negative reinforcement. If somebody has a different opinion they are welcome to it and I respect it. In my experience the results from positive reinforcement training only may be similar but what happens if the distraction is greater then the food reward the whole process goes to pieces. I am really getting sick of this site people ask for advise and then you get shot down with stupid comments. If some body posted a positive only method of dealing with the problem I would not shoot the poster down with negative comments I would still offer my own advise and let the OP choose what type of trainer they would go to for help. We are all different and we all have different methods of training the OP sounds smart enough to know to contact a professional. I think she is only looking for differences of opinion not a problem solve over the internet.

This problem can be easily avoided and should have never happened. I have 4 children and have had 3 dogs over the course of their lives. Your dog should not go near your baby ever not it's clothes cot nothing. No method of positive training will do this effectively. You need a prong collar and a long line lay your kids clothing on the floor and let the dog in as soon as it goes near the clothes give Extremely hard correction as hard as you can. Repeat this until the dog will not go near them. Your dog will learn that if he goes near the baby or anything that smell like the baby is a big no no. This is what a proper trainer will do. Do not consult some positive reinforcement rubbish trainer. Do not attempt this with out a good trainers guidance it is only an idea of what works. If you check out the leerberg dog training website here. http://leerburg.com/dogs-babies.htm This has some great information on dogs and babies. I hope after the dog snapped at your baby there was some form of correction. I would personally never let this dog near your baby and would implement the method above as a safe guard.

I get some excellent dehydrated smoked pork fat from the local butcher. The dogs love it.

I know the aftermath is sickening I just gave a brief description. Screw it I would shoot. Or load a trap with some specially prepared meat.

Stonebridge In my eyes you are a good dog owner. I've seen how most people feed there animals calling them sweetie and talking to them like they are babies and the dogs get all excited. It is this type of practice that causes problems the owners are rewarding unruly behavior before the dog gets fed then they just plonk the bowl down as a reward for it and walk away. As soon as my dog sees me pick up his bowl he goes to his spot on the lawn and sits and waits. I put the bowl down and walk away feed the cat and the birds then simply walk past and tap his bowl then he eats. His food isn't his food until I say it is and I can tell him to leave it and sit and he will sit and wait even if I approach his bowl and I make it practice to put my head near his he will back off and sit and wait until i tap his bowl again. Feeding time is a calm time at my house. If I want it it is mine. If anybody including my kids approach him while he is eating he will sit and wait. There are only two times in a day my dog is permitted to interact with my children and that is when he sees them first thing in the morning and he gives them a big kiss and they give him a cuddle then he goes outside. when they are outside he follows them around at a distance calmly he is not permitted to chase and rough play EVER with any member of the family unless invited to do so. There is an invisible bubble around my kids that he is not allowed near unless I tell him it is ok to. This involves me getting one of his toys. He gets his toy when he sits and waits for me to give it to him then I tell him to "go on" and the running around like a puppy and play can start. Pretty basic stuff and basic doggy manners Training is 24hours a day 7 days a week.

shoot the dogs! Maybe you should check the gun barrel with your eye to see if there are any bullets left. Pulling the trigger, is usually a good indicator. I've been on property for three years and the puppies have absconded at times. Any neighbour who shoots another persons dog, particularly if they are known to be another neighbours pet, might as well move interstate. We don't want them here. Capital punishment for dogs. What about all the cats???? I wouldn't give it a second thought. An animal that is not supposed to be on my land killing my animals would get a bullet. Have you even seen the damage a domesticated dog will do to sheep, cattle ect. They don't normally go for a kill it is a game to them. Imagine waking up in the morning to find 15 sheep with their tendons ripped from the back legs and their jaws ripped from their faces it is not a pretty sight. For a dog simply chasing and being a pain I would send it home. As soon as it attacked it would be bullet time and at this point it is not a family pet any longer it is a dangerous animal.

Pick up the ball cut in half and throw it back over they will either run out of balls or stop hitting them over. win win

When we had a farm we had problems from dogs all the time killing our chooks. We use to trap them then shoot them in the morning. As a land owner you are entitled to protect your livestock. I think in a suburban environment you would best deal with the council. You can trap the dogs on your property and have them removed by the ranger. Here we can pick up cat traps from the local council and use them without any issues.

I am presuming you are talking about my post. If so, I am not saying that this type of training will work for every single family and every single dog and would never advocate novice owners in doing this unless they fully understand what I am talking about. No dog is absolutely 100% bomb proof. They are after all..dogs. But understanding dog behaviour, dog aggression and human pack order and having common sense is a requirement :laugh:

Top post you are doing everything right. You are doing 100% what is required as a dog owner. You are preventing problems from happening. Excellent work in my book I do the same. If people treated dogs like dogs from day one instead of treating them like babies a lot fewer incidents like this would happen.

What that got to do with anything? You are bringing pit bulls into a discussion that has nothing to do with them. It was a sarcastic joke against the media

No, lack of supervision and ignoring a very basic rule about dogs, kids and food got that child bitten. Clearly you've never owned a resource guarder siks. Count your blessings that you haven't but don't kid yourself for a moment that its down to your superior training. It's got nothing to do with what you call superior training. It's basic puppy manners and maintaining pack rank. If you can't control the potentially bad behaviors of your dog you are asking for trouble and you are an irresponsible dog owner. Imagine if you have a dog that does guard food and I am a parent and kids do slip away some time. Then the kid goes and plays with the dogs bowl and the child does get bitten. It is your fault for not addressing the issue. I agree a dog should not be disturbed while eating or sleeping but the animal should not bite a human if and when it does happen.

Bet you if it was a pit bull they would have mentioned the word "MAULED" atleast 10 more times. The part about it eating it's food would have been left out as well. As for the dog being a dog and that's what dogs do.Rubbish NONE of my dogs that I have raised have had food guarding issues. Any member of my family could safely remove a bone or food from my dogs without any problems. Nothing is my dogs including his food I can take it away if I want to without any issues. It's the owners fault not the dogs. Poor training is what got that child bitten.

I will throw in GSD or an akita. I know, I know akita around small children wouldn't work you are all thinking. I got my pup at 12weeks and he is now 8 months old and he has NEVER knocked over my kids one is 2 and the other is 3. He has never been aggressive towards a human and is a joy to own. The kids cuddle him and play with him all the time and he is very gentle. We have not taught him this it seems to be a trait with the breed that they will look after children. He is clean and requires only a small amount of exercise and they really don't eat that much. I think a female akita would be a great family dog. The boys as they hit puberty can be a bit stubborn and independent. If you want something small the fox terrier is a bullet proof breed

I remember a story here in SA awhile ago about a girl in Adelaide that a man tried to abduct her. She was walking a small dog what the media called a "sausage dog" and the attack was enough to trigger the dog to fight and because of the little dogs courage she was unharmed. So in a real world situation the little dog did do well. I have had a rottweiler that I did protection train and that dog now works at State Security services as a protection dog. He was given to them by me because he was not the type of animal I wanted around my kids. He was fully trust worthy but not a family pet. A protection dog is not suitable for most peoples life styles so when the family dog steps up to the plate and at least tries it is something for any owner to feel proud of. If the dog is threatening enough to stop an intruder ect without biting even better.

I wouldn't mind hearing some stories from people that have had their dogs protect them from somebody that wanted to do them harm. We had somebody try and break into our house a day after Christmas while we were sleeping. Our akita was asleep in the lounge and he scared them off by barking and growling. He woke us up in the process. This is strange because he is a patting machine and loves people and greats everybody with his tail wagging. I suppose they just know sometimes. The worst part of this was who ever they were new we were at home. My daughter had a friend staying over and the lights were on in her room and our car was in our driveway. They damaged the front door in the process. They had also vandalized other cars in the street and they got caught by the police.

If one more person calls my akita a Siberian Husky cross I am going to train him to bite them.

That's a pretty big call. I think with a lot of praise and reward when being touched while laying down would be beneficial. Then to make going out side a positive experience for the dog would work also. Instead of the negative I think the experience could be turned into a positive.

I think for this particular fellow a behaviorist is in order due to the owners handling ability. I think the problem has arisen because as a pup the dog was allowed inside most of the time and instead of calling the dog and letting it outside it has been dragged by the collar and it is anticipating this behavior. It would be a relatively easy thing to fix I am going to check things out in finer detail over the weekend.

A close family friend of mine has a GSD that is 11 months old. I went and payed them a visit today and observed there dog. It would snap if some body just bumped his feet while he was laying there or if you simply disturbed him. The dog was not sleeping and was fully aware of it's actions. I watched my friend try to punish him by a scruff shaking and the dog went into defensive mode and snapped again. The dog when he is up and walking around is fine and is great with his daughter. He tried to shrug of the behavior but after a lengthy discussion he is committed in doing something. I want to know how to combat this problem using a positive method of training as the dog obviously doesn't respond well to a heavy hand. I also don't want to give him any advice that would potentially put him in a dangerous situation that could escalate out of his control. So any advice would be great and lets try not to turn this thread into a S*%* fight. I know a behaviorist is in order here but i just want to know peoples different methods.

What state is the dog in if it is in SA I will help out for free.

I'm confused. He chewed things outside so he can't come inside?? Why not sleep him inside in a crate? I think what the poster is trying to say is that he will have to sleep inside from now on. Yep.