morgan

Came across this webpage whilst looking for something else and was intrigued. Has anyone used GSE and had this result? Can it be used on cats? Have never read anything on GSE before, so I know nothing about it. http://www.thedogplace.org/Articles/Martin...eaPrev.0609.htm

Ino - you are probably right about a litre being a low dosage for a horse - however my generator can't make more than this each day as well as some for flushing wounds and making gel Robert McDowell told us just to give 15 mls, 4 times daily with the first mare that was ill, together with the thuja extract - we did end up giving more than this as it wasn't as much as some people take. The second horse was on the litre daily, and more if we had it.

Ino - re water quality, making colloidal silver requires purity levels of between 0 and 3ppm. All of the Noble's water I have ever used has been 3ppm, but when I was using a friend's home distilled water it tested as 0ppm. Compare this to Sydney tap water which varies between 115 and 137ppm in my kitchen. What level does the rain water test at? Re using CS, we have always used it orally in addition to pouring or spraying on wounds. Have saved the lives of two horses with CS of 12ppm and 20ppm, given in doses of up to a litre daily. We also make our own colloidal silver gel to put on wounds after flushing with CS. If there is septicaemia or massive wound infection we also add thuja extract to the oral doses. Both of these horses failed to respond to antibiotics and had reactions to them, so the vets involved both stated that we could not save the horse and it should be pts. Both vets still marvel at their incredible recoveries. Without the oral CS we would have lost both of them, topical application alone would not have helped in the slightest. PS - neither of these horses have the slightest hint of blue, despite one being on it for 6 weeks and the other several months.

What a shame that people who have no experience or knowledge of CS caused you to stop the treatment. If CS causes argyria where are all the blue people? Over a million people every year die because of prescription medication and other iatrogenic problems, yet there has never been a recorded instance of a single person being killed by CS and not one case of argyria has been caused by taking properly prepared CS in normal doses. Over 100,000 people in the US are killed every year by properly prescribed and administered medication, yet not one CS death, but CS gets the bad press? Go figure... Hope the CS can help your girl. Have you tried any of Robert McDowell's herbs for cancer? The Maritime Pine Bark works well and can easily be administered with the CS. Selenium and vitamin E are being used in Canada with good results against osteosarcoma as well. Percy's Powder (a mineral mix) has been used effectively against cancer since the 1940's - I have used it successfully for osteosarcoma myself. All of these can be used at the same time as CS.

Friends have two dogs with kennel cough, picked up at a show. Only the boys caught it, probably because they were a bit stressed over a bitch in season, none of the bitches ended up with it. On my advice they were put onto colloidal silver/spring water for drinking and some strengthening herbs in their meals at the first sign. Coughing has all but disappeared in less than 36 hrs. Only a slight sound every now and then and they never developed the deep hacking cough, despite galloping around the place. The bitches all received the same treatmentand have not shown any sign of KC despite sharing beds and dishes with the sick ones.

Anything that loosens the stomach ligaments is of concern - heat and exercise being the two main culprits. Very typey bloodhounds with looser skin are at greater risk of bloat as the ligaments tend to be looser as well. Those with tighter skin (less desirable in the ring) tend to be safer. Had a visiting bitch bloat only on water - she didn't touch her dinner. She was pretty highly strung. Had a happy go-lucky 9yo bitch bloat - as it was a 40+ degree day, I only fed her a small piece of lamb flap at midnight, after being locked up for 5 hours. Still bloated. Recently lost a highly strung boy - was always underweight and ate enormous amounts of food broken up into two meals. At the time there had been several bitches in season over a couple of weeks beforehand. He was always rested for at least two hours before being fed. Eating large amounts is a big risk factor as the stomach ligaments tend to stretch, so use the best quality food you can afford to reduce bulk. Know of more dogs that have bloated on soaked food than those on dry or raw. http://www.thenewfoundlandclub.co.uk/files...for_website.pdf

Recommended it to a customer whose 9 mth old pup was being dangerously dog aggressive (bullarab breeding) as it has the reputation of being able to make dogs even quieter than surgical castration. The vet hadn't used it, but was perfectly happy to order it in and read up on it No problems at all. The implant basically saved the life of the dog's sister, who he was trying to kill at every opportunity. The owner ended up having him surgically desexed later once he saw how much difference it made to his temperament.

Tried it, dogs liked it but lost condition on it. Having to feed more food to a bloat prone breed to keep weight on is just not an option, as the risk of stretching the stomach with larger quantities of food is unacceptable. The smaller dogs did fine on it, but they were a little porky to start off with so losing a bit of weight didn't matter.

That is just awful - Nutro is an excellent food. Typical of AQIS to change the rules for no good reason. The chance of any viruses etc being brought into the country in this food would have to be zilch.

Of course the dog doesn't "collapse" But I have seen an instance of a very large breed dog, desexed at 6 mths, that had incredibly poor muscle tone compared to his entire siblings (despite the same amount of exercise as them). He ended up having an accident whilst running caused by lack of muscle tone and spent an horrific three months battling bedsores and infection before being pts (spinal injury). Having seen how devastated his owner was, trying to save this dog's life, I vowed never to desex a male of this breed myself unless medically required. Interestingly enough, some holistic vets treating testicular cancer in large breeds will frequently only remove the affected testicle and keep the healthy one intact, as the importance of the hormones is recognised by them. PS - Funnily enough, desexing didn't help this boy's temperament any - he spent most of his life humping any female he could get hold of and was known for biting children, which is why he was handed in to the pound in the first place (he was a rescue)

Personally I wouldn't breed from the dog in your situation - it could make him more dominant, which you don't need with a busy lifestyle and family to take care of. As an unshown male I doubt that anyone would want to use him and as far as I know this is not a breed favoured by puppy farmers - too expensive to raise Making a decision not to breed from him has nothing to do with desexing - many of my males are never bred from and never desexed.Yes they can get a bit dominant with other males, especially when a bitch is in season, but I have the facilities to manage this easily. As a large breed he needs his testosterone to keep his musculature in perfect working order to help support that huge frame. I would only desex him if his dominance issues are too difficult for you to deal with. Try some obedience work first, then make up your mind. You certainly don't have to worry about accidental matings by him adding to the pound population, so don't let anyone guilt you into desexing him simply because it is the politically correct thing to do. Only desex if you feel it is the only way to address any temperament issues. By the way, I have seen some extremely dominant desexed dogs, so no vet can "guarantee" that this op will solve all your problems.

A hysterectomy takes longer to perform than the standard ovariohysterectomy, which is not good, but early desexing proponents say that the very young bounce back much quicker from the op than older pups, so maybe removing all but one ovary, or part of one, wouldn't be too rough on littlies and still allow them some hormones to grow up more normally with. Early desexing is done purely to prevent puppies, especially in breeds that are used by bybs and puppy farmers, so leaving some ovarian tissue in these pups would certainly give them more of a chance at a normal life whilst still being safe from becoming breeding machines or adding to the pound population. It still wouldn't suit the less responsible owner, as there may still be seasonal behaviour (but no bleeding or smell) which means the bitch will still have to be kept safe from getting out looking for boys a couple of weeks a year. This is unacceptable for some owners, but for those with prior experience of spay incontinence etc it would be a small price to pay for having a house pet without leakage issues. Of course there would still most likely be a slightly increased chance of mammary cancer, but with fewer hormones being made this should be reduced. More research needs to be done, but won't be while everyone just accepts the status quo and desexes on demand. It really comes down to what suits the individual - but we all have the aim of protecting our pets from accidental breeding and as free of health issues as possible, so the more research that we all do the better we can look after our own.

Can't really answer that, because I never, ever desex a bitch unless medically required - but I have the facilities to keep a bitch in heat totally secure, which a lot of people don't. I recommend to puppy buyers to desex at around 18 mths, which is usually before the first heat in my breed. Occasionally a bitch will come in at 11 or 12 mths, but they usually have a fair amount of filling out and growing left to do, so aren't physically mature despite being capable of breeding. In these instances I simply offer to board the bitch for free to keep her safe from accidental matings. I have seen many bitches come into season as pups that are definitely not physically mature, so I suppose I do agree with desexing between first and second heats for those that are going to do it. I have pushed for hysterectomy instead of the more usual ovariohysterectomy for quite some time, ever since I found out that it can be done. No pyo or puppies, no spay incontinence or increased risk of cancer or aggression. In over 30 years of keeping entire bitches I have only had 2 cases of mammary cancer, which were treated with desexing and a lumpectomy - both bitches lived to old age. As I usually have at least 8 or 9 bitches at a time of various breeds I consider myself lucky, but I also never vaccinate adults, to reduce toxins in the system, and avoid chemicals and drugs as much as possible to help keep them healthy. As for the increased aggression, I can't remember the exact explanation, but it is related to female hormones having a normalising effect on temperament, whereas male hormones increase dog aggression. Of course when a bitch's hormones alter with coming in to season they often get a dose of PMS! Every single very aggressive bitch I've come across has been desexed. And of course some of the nicest, sweetest bitches have been too, so you can't generalise.

This is where you run into problems - spaying reduces the risks of mammary cancer (of which only half are serious) but increases the risks of most other forms of cancer as well as thyroid problems and incontinence. It doesn't even completely eliminate the risk of pyometra, the main problem with intact bitches. Shame there hasn't been more research into the benefits of leaving an ovary or part of one to get some protective benefits of hormones without having the high risk of mammary cancer or full on season related behaviours.

When desexing is done before physical maturity skeletal changes occur, which can cause problems, but desexing after the first heat increases the chance of mammary cancer. This risk goes up even higher if done after the second heat, so some people recommend desexing large breeds after the first heat to make sure the bitch is physically mature, but before the second so that the risk of mammary cancer isn't too much higher. Speaking to your girl's breeder will give you an idea of when she can be expected to mature and give you a time frame for desexing. Be aware that desexing a bitch can lead to increased aggression issues (unlike the males which are usually a bit quieter after desexing) and you might need to be more careful with socialising and training to compensate, especially with a GSD. Personally I would never desex a large breed without requesting some ovarian tissue to be left behind to manufacture some hormones to minimise the risk of spay incontinence, cancer and thyroid problems, but finding a vet who can and will do this is not easy.

In addition to the above suggestions, add selenium and vitamin E to the diet daily, which are both useful for all forms of cancer in people and animals. The dose of vit E is 500 IUs and selenium is one milligram per 10 kgs of bodyweight. This is what a Canadian vet is using for osteosarcoma in dogs with some success. As selenium tabs are restricted to 25 micrograms in this country, the only way to get the right amount of selenium in is to buy a selenium livestock drench from a produce store and make it up according to directions very carefully, and don't spill any on yourself in the process. It is extremely toxic if overdosed, so be very precise with measurements. There have also been terminal cancer cases cured in people with this dose rate in a matter of months.

Don't know if it has silicon, not at home to look at the label - but it is a great product. Friend used it to brush out a huge matt in a dog - over four inches wide - and saved most of the coat. Normally this would have had to be tackled with a mat breaker and a lot of hair lost. I am very impressed with it.

Have used Photoshop in the past when it was given to me, but lost it with a computer crash. Have used Photofiltre ever since - the free version is excellent and has most of the same tools. Have never needed to upgrade to the paid version - the free one is very comprehensive. Just download from the official Photofiltre site.

Received this link in my regular EFT (Emotional Freedom Technique) newsletter. A UK EFT practitioner cured one dog of vacuum cleaner anxiety and relieved another's arthritis just with one session each using EFT. Certainly appears to answer those who say EFT benefits are only through the placebo effect. Success stories

PS - if the breeder says 18 mths is the earliest time, listen to her. I actually recommend 18 mths as the earliest time, but ask puppy buyers to consider not desexing males. As a tall, leggy breed they need full musculature - and for that they need testosterone.

Just curious - did she recommend 13 months for all breeds? I know in my breed that growth still occurs after 13 mths, sometimes even after 18 mths, so if this is a general recommendation it is incorrect. As for accidental matings, anyone with a male dobermann would be very careful not to let it escape - cars are far more of a risk than it somehow finding an accessible bitch in season that just happens to be big enough for him to actually mate.

Between 6 and 8 months for a toy breed is perfectly acceptable - after all, they are almost fully grown then anyway However a male dobe is entirely different, and won't be physically mature until he is much older - you don't want to desex a large breed dog before physical maturity as the growth plate closures will be altered, thereby changing the skeletal structure of the dog. Chest development will also be affected adversely. Believe me, a narrow chested, overly tall doberman with lessened muscle development is not a good look and can be more prone to accidents when running, turning etc. Humping is a natural growth stage for male and female puppies - if desexing occurs in the middle of this the dog may never grow out of it. I have seen many more serial humpers that were desexed as puppies than entire dogs. Having never desexed a male dog in over 30 years I can honestly say that I've never had a humper, and I usually have at least 5 entire males at any given time.

I have just received several bags of Maxi Sensible delivered straight from Melbourne in the Professional size (17 kgs) - sounds strange that the 15kg size would be discontinued.

Soy should never be fed to dogs in any form.The phytoestrogens in it are not good for dogs or even people for that matter, and many dogs are allergic to it. Soy milk is especially high in these and should never be consumed. http://www.soyonlineservice.co.nz/articles/DogFish.htm Obviously the occasional mouthful won't hurt him, but don't make a habit of it Soy consumption is especially linked to infertility in animals and people, but if your dog is desexed that probably won't worry you

Have found a small amount of colloidal silver daily is useful in such cases - only 5 or 10 mls is needed. Works wonders with URT stuff with people too. Unfortunately the virus will always tend to reappear under stress for the rest of his life, so he will need the utmost care to have his immune system running very, very well. Vaccinations and antibiotics will have no impact on this.