zeebie

Susan Garrett online blog & Facebook has the most amazing you tube videos avaialable to watch and learn from, she does run paid online mini tutorials, but I am sure if you search her out you will get all the ideas very quickly. It is all about making you the most important person in your dogs life, gaining that bond and trust like no other so that no matter what the distraction they will always always want to come to YOU :D I started with normal rewards and soon learnt high level rewards were the way to go, my pup is play focussed with frisbee and tug being way up there next comes "chicken neck" so using these items it was all about the focus on the item and not on distraction practicing at our local dog club while other dogs on lead worked away we sort out a little space and with everyone on side we started longline recall and reward reward reward, then moved to close proximity recall off lead and within 2 weeks had 100% attention. Now I simple have to say in a high pitched stupid yodelly type voice "Come" or if she is being particularly naughty and doing the selective deafness routine, I say "treat" or "chicken neck" to which I get bold over in enthusiasm for her to get to me faster then a bolt of lightning. Don't get disheartened it can be done and will take time and effort but the outcome is well worth it. Also those dogs that don't have lots of opportunities to get out and about and explore and get exposed to a multitude of sights and sounds etc tend to be a bit more interested in the big wide world when they 'escape' then those dogs who have lots of social experiences.

Just on the nail topic really really hard to see how far back to go on all jet black nails so I just nibble a bit every couple days.

Certainly much rather have the odd own dog hair in mouth, get enough when clipping her without even going to the kitchen, better then eating horse meat in commercial food, or as happened recently opened pack of biscuits had eaten 2 already previous day when I found firmly glued to next one a huge pre chewed blob of gum. Next horrible food encounter was some gross foreign object with fur on it in cat food when I opened tin, I suspect probably a bit of kangaroo needless to say both companies were contacted and provided gift vouchers to shut me up but I still took it to higher level then the company. Just keep on cooking we need fibre in our diet anyways, just don't send home bake to school canteen or any community foodstalls

2 dogs both non shedding and poodle wool does not seem to be odourous, other dog who has constant ongoing foot problem gives off a horrible smell at times, both dogs in house nearly 70% of time. Polished wood floors one small carpet area which I sprinkle the carpet deordorant on daily, vacum every couple days, bath dogs weekly apply coat colonge to older dog with more of odour problem. Have cut an old double doona into 4 segments and sewn edges and put inside covers, these get rotated daily (they sleep on them)so one in wash one drying one for sleeping etc. Also have vanilla scent spray pack and if I am getting visitors I spray it around liberally. Have vanilla scented car deodoriser as well. I do not notice any odour as such in my house when I come in after work and it has been locked up all day, and never had anyone comment about smell, have actually had people say they were surprised that there was no smell. So maybe because puppy is in such confined space as well as food source can make them smell, try using chlorophyll tablets as this absorbs odours just pop into food of dog.

I have direct contact with breeder/owner of my girl's Sire & Dam, and have been fortuneate enough to see pics of most of her ancestors on both sides with excellent info as to titles etc, would be great if there was an opportunity to know a few more details though like any health issues and age they lived to etc. Her Grand sire could be her twin the likeness is amazing, both in colour markings and conformation. :)

Had this problem in another dog and it was related to a skin mite which was around the base of tail and had gone along the whole tail with application of maleseb wash and antifungal powder it was sorted in around 2 months and then hey presto all this nice hair grew back

Under bed on old doona sometimes gravitating to end of my bed in their own beds which are parked on end of my big bed. When puppy was new home she slept under bed but soon as older dog decamped she would start whining to be lifted up onto bed.

Seperation anxiety I have same problem with new dog, fine if older dog is staying with her but if not all hell breaks loose. so now pup is put inside in a nice quite fashion with bowl of her food, some special chewy treat and I just walk out without any fuss like as if I am just going down stairs, I have already gotten car ready with other dog, my belongings etc and, by time I am in and gone she has no idea. I have driven down road and walked back to listen and there is total quite and no problem also asked neighbours and they say no problem :) I also started taking older dog out for a walk on his own and letting iss pup stay alone in yard only go around front out of sight and she starts so I give her the "quite" command and when she settles I return then reward, this only took a week to have her use to me going out front to dig garden or walk etc and now she just settles and waits. So maybe you could start by mixing up the morning routine and leaving spud behind and getting him use to you not being there 100%

I call it my girls 'sea anchor' just 20 metre long nylon plaited/woven rope which since she has had experience with since 4 months old knows only to well how to keep out of its way as she careers across the mud flats /water etc, In beginning she was attached to other dog as an insurance policy, now her recall is great I can safely let her go, but the line is purely for emergency reel in if required. Was previously used as luggage tie down and when bungy straps and cargo nets came along rope got retrenced so now it has been recycled and I added a D clip to one end to attach to dog harness.Very cheap :)

this is relevant for QLD people but there are other sites for other states/territories http://www.emergency.qld.gov.au/emq/css/prepareyourpets.asp#_Preparing_your_Pets NSW http://www.emergency.nsw.gov.au/media/1149.pdf (minimal mention of dogs/pets mostly page 59 onwards talks about livestock in general) VIC http://www.dpi.vic.gov.au/pets/pet-care/pets-and-emergencies SA Could not find relevant government site for here Anyone know where this info is? WA http://www.mediastatements.wa.gov.au/pages/StatementDetails.aspx?listName=StatementsCourt&StatId=3049 ACT & Tasmania nothing specific found Anyone else find anything for these locations? NT http://www.pfes.nt.gov.au/~/media/Files/Forms_Licences_Permits_Publications/Emergency/Factsheets/pet-emergency-kit.ashx

Possibly because in QLD we have much much Hotter weather and I have 2 long coat dogs, one double coat and poodle with full show coat, and I have K9 soft crates (bigger then size needed for dogs) and used with fans as both dogs become overheated very quickly if left in them at comps without added ventilation of fan etc, in vehicle they travel in harnessses with air con on.I did put soft crate in boot space and put thermometer in it and drove 2 hours to showgrounds with air con on in car. Temp on arrival in crate with all sections open was 37.9deg can't imagine what it would have been if dog had been in there as well. left crate under shade of tree outside Temp according to my vehicle guage was 31deg, with crate sides up and screened area of it allowing circulation after 4 hours Temp was reading 38.5deg. So that was enough for me I went straight out and purchased open wire crates only time soft crates now get used is in winter and at night trials and even then I am constantly checking, as often after a run dog will come back over heated and then go into crate so naturally body heat as they pant disipates but obviously stays in the confined area due to the 'insulation/waterproofing, of these crates.

Soft crates VERY hot especially with 2 dogs in. Also always drive safe and allow for unexpected as in rear end or side collision soft crate will give no protection, so a very sturdy cage is better option. For all your other items have a raised floor (small shelf across boot area with sides to support, this can be left in boot but easily removed if required. Store all your items like pram bags etc under shelf and place crate/cage secured with secura strap on top You will still have extra room beside for any other items you need to carry etc. One idea -> http://www.motoraccessories.net.au/passenger/j1427/Dog-Containment-Cage-Astra

oodles of Poodles (This one been used heaps) Party of Poodles

I use to do the same now having one agility dog + one show dog, the show trolley gets used at agility/obedience, just roll it out load it up and off we go once at site set up gazebo dogs into trolley with divider up middle and no problem, th eidea is catching on.

Definately a good idea last thing you would want is to have it all ready to roll and wheels fall off etc

Excellent idea guys I also have updated pics of my dogs from front and side angle just in case but hope is never needed if they did somehow get lost.

Before ANY dog breed is banned how about they employ all those made redundant to actually get out and enforce the law regarding dogs in public i.e. actually on a lead and being controlled by a responsible person not a young child who has not got a chance of containing a dog if it becomes excited. They could also start checking on households to ensure dogs are registered and suitably contained, not as is the case in my area where at any given time of day several can be found wandering and scavanging around the neighbourhood while owners at work, and good little puppy safe and sound asleep back in yard when master comes home

:) Keep the surveys coming and spread the word http://www.surveymonkey.com/s/pets-and-people-preparedness-for-disasters

time to get roof rack :) Or better idea have 2nd set of contaiment pens/crates at a location (friends/relatives etc) where you could go collect from once evacuated.

There have been centres established for people with pets but they must meet certain criteria (crates/containers)people have to be put first and unfortuneatley some people have come to centres with 8 cats 6 dogs sheep, cow, horse etc etc and happy enough for general livestock to be coralled outside but wanting "pets" to stay indoors with them and with people sleeping in close proximity this is not a desirable situation. so common sense must prevail and where there is anxiety and upheaval etc tension rises and sometimes tiny thing is enough to rock the boat. So given the extreme number of people who have had to be displaced and are in these centres, pets are the least priority, however if containers can be found and owner happy to have animal in same and outside in a covered area with food and water then no problem at all. Hygiene is also needing to be considered and last thing they want is an outbreak of Gastro to go through as medical resources are also stretched to limit.

But who can you really call when your fellow neighbours would all be in the same boat? I could never ask my neighbours when they have their own responsibilities to think about, . Our local dog club have rallied around for each other in 2011 I took in 2 people and 4 dogs who were stranded and in one case we had to "rescue" 2 of the dogs as they were locked in the house in morning when owner went to work and by time she was alerted, creek had flooded stranding her one side dogs other. so all up we had house full of dogs between mine, theirs and another couple who stayed with me while owners were put up by non dog friendly people, luckily all dogs knew each other and we all managed. so I have a list of people I can contact who would gladly be able to help me out without putting themselves out. :)

These are fantastic, they have several different styles just check out photo's on site https://www.facebook.com/#!/photo.php?fbid=320620004689599&set=pb.214389425312658.-2207520000.1359696967&type=3&theater