zeebie

You probably won't see this in time, but DNATA (toll air)at Brisbane Airport is where live cargo comes in it is in chorlis St on right as you head down the OLD airport drive, you have to take the international exit go round roundabout onto Nancy bird way then veer left down old airport drive stay in right lane until you see street on right, can't miss it on your left once in entrance. Make sure you have ID as they usually only give live cargo out when travelling with passenger when you produce your ticket, but if collecting you need to have ID very important. Takes around 20 minutes after plane lands until unload and they come to depot. Good Luck :) I am flying out with my 2 dogs on Thursday and hardest thing is to have to off load baby 90 mins pre flight and then take service dog away from her to go on board with me, she is totally attached to him now. I am sure I will hear her howling from down below all the way to our destination

Poodle origin German = Pudelhund or Pudel meaning "to splash in water" Geschickt hund der pudel Poached by France and changed from the working dog to a picture of fashionable elegance - très bon merci mon ami :)

Last year the Moreton shire council reworked their whole system with regards dog (and other animal) ownership and registration etc, with strict number control being invoked. I seriously doubt the new council will change any of these new rules - http://www.moretonbay.qld.gov.au/living.aspx?id=13573 within this link are various topics and also a sub link to the application of fees to "foster" animals as it currently stands, providing these animals are registered in the name of the foster organisation there is no fee charged. In the Brisbane city council area all of the "dog pounds" have been contracted out to the victorian based 'Lost dogs home'business and pounds as such no longer exist while these contractors privately manage the service a no kill inititive has been brought in etc. Their are positives and negatives with this new system. With the registration fee structure I feel if a dog is desexed, microchipped (now compulsory) has completed a level 3 obedience certificate then the owner should have reduced fee and a 2 yr 'licence' be awarded. for breeders and multi show dog homes there should be a corporate type fee, and this should be dependent on number of bitches and dogs etc similar to the Logan area implementation. Currently Brisbane City council offers fairly cheap registration for the following reasons ->if you belong to a dog club and have proof of membership, own a pedigree dog, your dog is desexed, you are on a pension, or the dog is a service dog with verified certification (FREE)

Totally agree it is a wider issue but unfortuneately if non dog orientated people were allowed to vote on a particular dog related topic we would probably all suffer the consequences. My little dog is very very fast and initially was able to outrun and actually ran under belly of this dog causing it to fall over when trying to turn back on him, this gave him some time, he also had a weather beta coat on which also helped stop the dogs teeth getting into his body thank heavens. Agree also about small dogs being ferrocious with the small dog syndrome and often owners think it is funny to see their little dog standing up to a big dog while not realising the small dog transfers this aggression onto humans and other smaller animals. I am definately in favour of bringing in the same system they have in the USA, that is everyone MUST complete a compulsory new owners course and get a certificate of competency before being allowed to own a dog, when they purchase or rescue a dog they then must attend a dog orientation group, so it more or less makes people think twice before rushing off and buying a dog as they have these added committments to take on. the authorities who regulate this system also provide education as to most suitable type of dog for the persons situation, and they monitor the "license", unlike here where people get dogs, if your lucky they register with council and no one ever checks on the dogs welfare etc unless there is a problem.

How many times have we pondered this question, should the dog be blamed for its action, or should the owner be taken to court to justify their actions in not preventing the dogs behaviour? Over and over again we see/hear in the media, and in the neighbourhood,reports of dog attacks. last Sunday on my way to an event I had need at 7am to urgently stop at a very isolated and secure dog off lead area close to my home, I had only just driven 2 streets when pup decided to throw up in her crate,so taking both small dogs into this area, Dogs romped around while I disposed of liner etc. Job done and pup back on lead I commenced walking to exit when suddenly confronted by a huge Ban dog X Rhodesian ridgeback looking rather agro and dragging lead, my only defence was to scope puppy into arms and turn and brace myself against a large gum tree trunk, thus leaving my other little dog at the mercy of this 50Kg dog, this dog immediately "attacked" no smelling, no "lets just check out this other dog" he just swopped on his prey and had my dog like a rag doll, this all happened in a matter of seconds with me standing metres away terrified and then hearing two people frantically yelling the dogs name etc, they came running up the lane way into the enclosure and the male grabbed the lead and dragged this dog away, whence the girl is telling me not to worry he is friendly and he only wants to play and that he is a puppy etc etc. Right then! this dog was 160cm on its hind legs I am 163cm, the dog weighed more then I did, I have extensive experience with dogs and none phase me unless I see this type of behaviour and there isn't a fence between myself and the dog. I was in tears by this time and thankfully my little dog had no physical injury only emotional (yes dogs do suffer emotional trauma), as did I,completely ruining my day out and leaving me so shaken up. These people could NOT control this dog, it had no training, no discipline, as witnessed by the 180cm male owner trying to drag the dog away out of the park with it dragging him in opposite direction trying to get back to my dog, and according to them had escaped - conveniently under the fence with its lead on into the area where I was. Their argument being that he must have seen me walk past! The house adjoins the area and belongs to the city council and is being rented out to families in crisis, these people said the dog was only staying for the w/e and would be gone the next day. So in all the chaos I did not get their names, the dogs name or any other information. So a call to the local council was met with well as long as you or your dogs are not injured etc, there is nothing we can do without this information. so now this dog has gotten off, well its owners have until next time when it possibly kills or seriously maimes an animal or human. So it is great we have rules and regulations etc regarding animal control, trouble is the animals can't read, therefore it is ultimately their human owners responsibility to effectively safegaurd their dog to prevent it being labelled as a dangerous dog and or being potentially PTS.

Totally agree, I pondered on same question and in end just ticked dry food as none really were correct when you feed dry + leading RAW. then next stumbling block was the question re the "type of dog" again none of the answers were relevant as my dog does not 'nibble all day', does not 'beg', does not eat 'table scraps' etc. Yes I agree Data being collected is formed to reflect preferred outcome of research scenario, whereas done correctly should be reflecting a sample of both qaulitative and quantitative results to give the reader "true" info and to also prove conclusively the results of this study. Hopefully the persons mentor will be consulted and sort this out before the research student ends up wasting time and energy.

Top Doggles is coming up 9 on 20/12 newbie doggles will be 1 on 9/12 Newbie doggie is to be trained up to replace current working doggie as he moves into retirement, really hard to think about him not working anymore, and to start over with a new dog and not be 100% sure she will be as accurate and as proficient as older doggie.

Just a couple thoughts on the topic. There has been a study done which shows that animals do provide an enormous comfort to those with mental health issues and related problems - relationship breakdown, homelessness, inability to sustain employment etc, often animals are the one constant in these people's lives and support them emotionally without the pressures that humans in society often exert. Statistics show that there is a higher incidence of homelessness in those suffering mental health issues. Our local shopping centre has a huge metal bin with a sign requesting donations of linen, toiletry items, dog and cat food and long life food etc. This bin is regularly emptied and contents given to a salvation army officer who does evening and morning food van runs and knows many of the street dwellers, he distributes the items and often organises dog wash days at the local service station that has a self serve dog wash depot, this is manned by scouts and guides doing community service to earn credit towards their goals, none of these people involved are ever recognised for their sacrifices and yet put themselves out there willingly. So if anyone wants to help support this cause, get your local scouts and guides on board, get shops (or even banks as a depot) involved with donation bins, contact the Salvo's and get the ball rolling, this way many hands make light work, and every single item donated be it for the human or the animal will be thankfully received. Many of us have extra food/water bowls, brushes no longer needed, dog coats, collars leads etc. Just donate them to a very deserving cause. Often the people I come in contact with won't go into shelters because these places won't accept their pets, one man recently would only go into hospital for surgery when we offered to care for his beloved cat until he returned, many put their animals before themselves buying or scavenging food for the pet.

Ditto for QLD seems mostly only the speciality group shows have neuter class otherwise zilch, such a shame as it would be great to have the opportunity as a purebred owner to still show your dog even if desexed due to a genetic trait which precludes responsible breeding Well done on campaigning this cause

without going right back through thread below are 2 links which show the difference between the PennHip/OFA (USA) and the Australian method. both need extensive radiological examination and therefore anesthetic. Interestingly enough when this is done a certificate is usually issued to the owner/breeder. So any breeder who has had this process done should have such a certificate to show potential clients. My philosophy is no papers no purchase and this also goes for other breeds including PRA (eye disease) Gene profile for certain diseases that are very common such as hemophillia (bleeding disorder) Renal Dysplasia and Weimaraner Immunodefiecency, this is an interesting contact point for breeders and buyers http://ic.upei.ca/cidd/ http://www.online-vets.com/hipscore_1.html http://trends.aahanet.org/vetnewsarticle.aspx?key=92adb5db-6388-4c9b-a626-bb5d7ac3cad4

From a educators perspective I would give you a mark for creativity in trying to find answers, but the whole reason assignments are set is to encourage research to expand your knowledge of this very process, as well as to expose you to various topics that you will be exposed to in your career path,once you qualify you will find it necessary to continue to self educate and keep your information current, hence the reason for only using recent reference material. Theoretical based practice is very important no matter which field you are in, if you know the theroy behind the practice, or why we do something the way we do, then this will show clients and colleagues you are an informed practitioner. Best place to actually get relevant references is at a University library, these libraries are open to the general public, just not for borrowing rights unless you purchase an associate library membership, which if you are a registered student at a TAFE you can obtain. As I am not sure where you are located I can't direct you to a specific library, but if the university teaches Vet science they will have the books and also lots of vet students who are in various stages of practice and these people will be very helpful. also there is -> http://www.vnca.asn.au/displayboard.cfm They have state links and may be able to offer a library facility. You may find this forum very helpful as well -> http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/1506889 Good luck :)

I have an 8 litre large bottle water dispenser which drip feeds into plastic (BPA free) attached bowl, Both dogs have ceramic based with s/s metal insert bowls which keeps them stay put, remove easy to clean and holder bowls can also be used for water or other food if needed. apart from the chewing (which I have never had a problem with)I find the metal bowls more hygenic and food does not stick to bowl if there are any left overs. Pink for the girl blue for the boy and both know exactly which bowl belongs to who :laugh: In the crates I use the kennel mate bowls which are great because if you have the base plates on other crates or pen etc the bowls can be interchanged, also use these on airline crate (BPA free). When I was growing up dogs drank water from any available source usually sheep trough, creek, mud puddles around property and no harm came out of it that I recall, they even got dipped with the sheep to keep them tick and flea free - no fancy products back then, and no fancy food/water containers either. The food was scraps from the table and odd fresh meat if a roo was killed and it was tossed out on the shed floor, strangely enough our working dogs lived a long and productive life.

Dogs are very intuitive and substitue other senses for the lost one, it is important to have the proper diagnostic testing done to determine extent and cause of hearing deficit, often if you get a congenital deafness you will also get blindness which sometimes comes along later in puppies development, so eyes may also need checking depends on breed etc. Having an older unaffected dog does make things heaps better and easier - on the plus side you probably won't have a yapper or barker. Training can be done and it is all about focussing on the scent - which dogs have a very accute nose, also there is vibration collars to help you connect with your dog. this site may help http://www.deafdogs.org/training/ It is definately a hard decision and the breeder does need to know you may find your dog was not the only one in the litter with problems good luck

Yep books are great but best idea is other people with experience get to a reputable puppy preschool, then onto a reputable dog obedience club where he will meet heaps of people with a vast experience range and also online there is a plethora of information on bringing home a new puppy, do's, don'ts and what to expect. I say to people that it is exactly the same as having a baby in the house and only difference puppies have 4 legs, but other then that it is all the same, clean up the barfs and the wee/poo, feeding routine, understanding the puppy needs - just like human babies puppies cant tell you what is wrong. Your whole life changes forever once you have a baby and same goes for bringing home your first puppy :) The most important rule is understanding the pack structure and being fair but firm. So the best book on that topic would have to be Who's the boss by Val bonnie available from most libraries and I am sure it would be available relatively cheaply from here:- http://www.bonnies.com.au/products/books

Yep Aussies love to bark :laugh: Its like "me me me" Refocus every time dog barks inapropriately, try using a rattle made out of a used small baked bean tin or spag tin put some tiny pebbles like you get for aquariums into it and then cover top opening with cloth wrap, elastic band securely around to hold, and then tape it. Use this by rattling loudly whenever he barks and the minute he refocuses to the tin looking at it or you and stops barking say sit and reward. You have to be 100% committed to it and you will find that within a week the dog will stop and sit the minute you even pick up the object without rattling it. Next the return home crate barking, yes my dog is good in crate without any food reward but as soon as she hears the car pull in downstairs it is on so I wait at door and when i hear her stopped I open and immediately say good girl and as crate is just inside door I am able to release her and she sits and I give affection reward. also as suggested you could try leaving him in a larger room like laundry with a chew - tendon strap/pigs ear etc, around 13 weeks teething starts so you get lots more chewing, nipping and general 'mad" behaviour until those gums settle and new teeth come through. I froze treats in ice cube tray and placed down stairs in laundry where I have baby gate at door to foyer so she can see out but not get into house. this made such a difference to her. Good luck

Depends also on whether dog has any other digestive upsets, my dog is also on B.A.R.F and has normal coloured stool. Only time I see them white is if it happens to sit out for a week without being scooped and disposed of. I do know that in humans white or grey stool indicates lack of bile production to help colour stool content and is often associated with liver problems.

There is a company on Gold Coast who make this type of item, mostly do ute cages but will possible do internal fixing for you if not they will know who does. http://www.jesseengineering.com.au/products/cages.html I also know someone out Samford way who could possibly help you so if no luck with above just message me and I will give you details.

so reading the NSW & Vic assist animal pass requirements I wonder if I visited with my QLD certified and ID complient dog if they would kick me off for not having one of their particular passes hmmmm Mental note, make sure if intending to visit other states to get border pass FIRST LOL. We can jet all over the country without a problem but seems we can't travel on NSW & Victorian public transport very strange There in lies the problem of why we need a NATIONAL criteria.

Correct :) I should have typed QLD legislation not AUSTRALIAN, the wheels of progress work very slowly and at least we have made a small dent and hopefully it has a positive ripple effect.

this may be of interest to people on this topic I realise this particular site is QLD related but similar ones are available for other states. http://www.communities.qld.gov.au/disability/key-projects/guide-hearing-and-assistance-dogs

I had the same issue when trying to book into a motel in Northern NSW , so rather then argue with the manager who stated he had recently taken over premises and while it was previously listed in the "Travelling with dogs "holiday guide he would be removing it as he did not agree with dogs in his motel and when I explained my dog was not a "pet" as he put it, but a working dog, he still stated that dog had to stay in car and would not be allowed in room. I explained to him as calmly as possible that we had been all over Australia and if the likes of the Stanford Plaza would allow my dog to sleep in his crate in the room then why not his "flea ridden" piddly little back woods motel! Upon that we left and on return home to Brisbane a formal complaint with the anti discrimination board of NSW was lodged. As far as I was informed the owner/manager received a letter of warning. Strangely enough when travelling all over NZ not once did we have any difficulty whatsoever and were welcomed everywhere, most major cities in Australia not so much of a problem but as soon as we got a little off the beaten track it was very difficult and in many places - Tamworth in particular, and I would not think this was a small place, I had a major disagreement with a one of the huge shopping complex security staff who insisted we leave the building, upon showing him the ID card and a quite word to him regarding his part in paying the possible $50000 fine for discriminating against myself and dog now handed out by the government he backed off and apologised. Just when I thought we were safe to continue we were accousted by a little old lady with walking stick who tried to hit myself and my dog and screamed abuse at us for having a filthy creature in the shops, thankfully the same security gaurd came to my rescue and escorted this dear old dementia suffering local off to have her afternoon cuppa.

Yes under the new Australian legislation all handlers of guide dogs and certified Assistance /service dogs now are issued with a government photo ID which has photo of owner and photo of dog on it, this must be produced if and when requested. :)

Is there any private show ring training one on one available and also any on Northside Brisbane other then Caboulture bit far to get to for me as is Durack classes Just need some help with some fine tuning LOL

My other dog did exactly same thing was initially all bouncy and normal on return from surgery 24hours later crashed and slept, then by day 4 was totally back to normal. No cone on head and spent lots of time licking which drove me insane but obviously kept the site clean. As for the small raw area it is probably from where the retractor was and has pinched the skin, best to just bathe it with a warm solution of salty water or teaspoon of bicarbonate soda (baking powder)mixed in a cup of warm water three times a day and you should find within 48hours it will be a nice healthy pink and start to heal nicely, scabs tend to hold in all the serous fluid that would usually leak away so it is better off with the scab off. The incision wound will heal on the outside by around 10days but the inner layers often take longer and so you need to make sure she doesn't jump or do stairs or any other rough play for around a month, as often bigger breed dogs can get hernias through the incision line. If in doubt go back to your regular vet tomorrow and it should all be covered in the original surgery fee.