Pretty Miss Emma

I sort of think that maybe this is an opportunity for you to get to know Kirra and who she is really well as herself. You will be able to devote your time to her and train her and play with her and give her some great one on one time. Like others have said I wouldn't have 2 puppies, it's just really hard work. And you don't know that Kirra is lonely, and she will probably get over that a bit anyway with you spending quality time with her and making sure she gets doggy playdates and what not. I was worried about Kenzie when I lost my Emma, but she survived and I think has become a stronger more confident and independent dog because I gave her some time on her own. we developed a much stronger bond than we had before. Now Hamish has come along (Kenz had 11 months as an only dog) and we are having a lovely time. Both my dogs get devoted one on one time with me but also time together. Neither of them minds being on their own, but they also love being with each other. The big thing was I wasn't getting Hamish for Kenzie, I wasn't even really thinking I was ready for a puppy but then I heard of his litter and it's background and realised I was definitely ready for another dog (because I wanted to start training another dog, I wanted another personality around, I wanted to try some new dog activities that I couldn't do with Kenz). So I realised he was very much for me, not for her, but a nice byproduct was that she would have another friend. Don't feel guilty, dogs are very resilient. Wait until YOU feel the time is right for YOU, be it 4 weeks or 4 years or somewhere in between. (Oh and really dogs do sleep most of the time when we aren't there with them - I've snuck up on mine when they weren't expecting me to be home and every time sleeping!!!!)

Super exciting... Kenzie was able to walk past other dogs that were barking at her today without batting an eye! Kenzie being able to sit calmly while Hamish meets another dog! Good stuff I really want in the Free Shipping section of Clean Run. A delivery of dog treats! Hamish doing a poo at work the first time I take him out when he asks (rather than having to go outside 6 or 7 times within 20 minutes because eac time we go out something exciting happens like a dog walking past or a magpie being there so he forgets why he asked to go outside!!!).

And everyone else... I only read the last 3 or 4 pages but it sounds like there are some great successes going on here!!! Well done!!!!! How nice is it to have people who actually understand your dog rather than just thinking that they're out of control!?

Yes. 2 vet behaviourists and currently seeing a highly regarded small dog specialist. I've made a lot of mistakes due to bad advice and am terrified to screw up even more Ness, he's had his leg checked and manipulated and its healing really nicely (thank god) - bloods are clear, he's super healthy. This is really all my fault... PA, I spent a lot of time thinking that Kenzie's reactivity was all my fault. And yes, partly it was. But it is very rarely ALL our fault. As one of my friends kept saing to me a dogs behaviour is a combination of genes plus environment. With Kenzie I kept blaming myself because while she had a great first 6 months with me (heaps of socialisation, training, etc, etc) after that age lots of things happened in my life which meant that I couldn't focus on her, didn't know how to deal with issues she was presenting me and I was possibly at my most anxious and stressed point of life. But they were the environmental bits, she had to have some sort of genetic predisposition to her behaviour for those things to create the problems she had/has. So yes, a little bit of it will be about you but there is also the bit that you have no control over because Scooter will have some sort of predisposition to this behaviour in his genetic make-up. Unfortunately his environment has enabled his reactive behaviour. But as I have learnt it's not a closed door and improvement is possible. It sounds like you've recognised that he isn't going to be like all the other dogs, but remember you can make life more enjoyable for the both of you through training just don't lose hope for that. 18 months ago I thought that I was never going to have the performance dog that I wanted because she struggled to go for a walk down the street - I now have a dog who is working as an education dog with groups of strangers a few times a week, she can work off leash around (some) other dogs at agility training and on the weekend she got her Rally Novice title (and in that managed an environment with strange dogs in close proximity and also a cricket game in the background!!). So it is possible but it does take time. I saw that you were thinking of getting another dog. I have to say since Hamish has come along I have seen some changes in Kenz. She is a lot more cuddly. She seems a lot more confident when we are out. She is demonstrating much better self control (it's almost like she's thinking "I have to be the grown up and show him what to do"!!). I have no idea if it is coincidence that she had a bit of a click with her behaviour management when Hamish came along or if he has actually made the difference. At the moment I don't care because it's a good difference! But keep working with Scooter and remember he just is the dog he is and do what you feel is going to help him best.

Aphelion - he is way TOO cute!!!!!!! Mind you, for me at that age he is already well and truely big enough!!! I'm definitely a medium breed girl!

I don't really think it's good for any dog to be in a crate for longer than about an hour without being let out to go to the toilet or whatnot, particularly if they are going to be crated overnight. That's just what I think, but I also only use my crates at trials, shows, work, training, etc. When I brought my pup home I had his crate (which was his bedroom) attached to a greyhound sized crate (which acted as his playpen) - this was where his toilet spot was and also his water bowl and toys. I honestly think it is unreasonable to expect a pup to spend all day and all night in a crate. If they do have to be crated during the day and you are prepared to be coming and going from work to facilitate this then I would be suggeting that you would need to come home every hour and let the pup out for a good 15 minutes or so each time so that he can play, toilet, drink, etc. Also agree with other that you definitely don't want him forced in to toileting in his crate (thus why I would suggest letting him out at least every hour). There are some very sturdy ex-pens, play-pens, fencing panels, etc that could be used to fence off an area in the house. And even outside you could possibly fence off an area beside one of the walls with some sturdy fencing (or even star pickets and some decent mesh, you might even be able to find something on freecycle or something). I guess another way to think about it in terms of how the pup might feel - how would you like to be locked in your bedroom all day and then all night with only a few hours out in between times? By choice it might be ok, but if it isn't by choice that's when I think there's a possibility of destructive and obsessive behaviours developing. I don't know about how large breeds develop but I do know with my little one if he wasn't able to run around and play when I wasn't there he would have been a nightmare and I would think we would have some physical and behavioural issues also. Oh and my little one was in his playpen/bed for about 4 weeks after I brought him home and then from about 3 months old or so he had run of the yard most days. I just think, make sure you think long and hard about how this can be managed and is it in the best interests of the developing puppy, what sort of options do you really have if you start to get creative and can you really facilitate the coming and going with work if you are going to go ahead with daytime crating (because there is a real possibility that you may need to come home every hour, pups learn their toilet training at different rates).

I got a pedigree dog from the RSPCA. Well she didn't come with her papers but I ended up tracing down her breeder through a few opportune chance meetings and we found out that not only was she a purebred BC, but also was a show winner as a puppy. After she had been rehomed to a pet home (her legs forgot to grow to the correct height, by a lot!!), they eventually surrendered her as they didn't want her any longer. When I did track down the breeder they were devastated at this as they have a return at any time clause for rehoming. Mind you I think my old Emma ended up in the best home any dog could have wished for in the short time I had her!! But I would agree there are quite a lot of purebred dogs in pounds and as has been said I think a lot of it is to do with appeal and then doing no homework so not knowing what you're in for and BYB's not necessarily educating buyers. Although any dog can end up in the pound for a variety of different reasons!

With Kenzie and her reactivity issues I have used a normal flat collar, front attach harness, halti and martingale (blackdog taining collar). Each was useful to me at different times and for different reasons. If you are going to use a halti with a reactive dog make sure you understand how to use it, how to position yourself, where to hold the lead, etc or you will have a dog with neck problems (so many people allow reactive dogs to have a full leash with a halti and so they continually neck themselves every time they react - not safe!!). But while I was using all these most importantly we were training to counter her reactivity, the simplest most useful game for me was LAT - and in all honesty it doesn't matter what equipment you're using when you play this! The other thing that was part of our training was wherever possible staying below threshold. To the point now that we are in a trialing environment and Kenz can cope with dogs being in very close proximity to her, sniffing her tail, doing performance work, etc and she doesn't react (but we do still play LAT if it is a bit intense). I sort of feel, find the equipment you are happy to work with and train the behaviour you are wanting while you use that equipment.

We got our first ever title yesterday at Bairnsdale!! I'd entered Kenzie in to the 3 rally trials with the hope of getting 1 pass so that we only needed to get 1 more at another trial. So what does she do? Pulls out 3 passes to add to the one we already had!!! Yay for our RN title and hopefully there will be more to come!!

I'm like you rebelsquest. It's not the dogs and the barking, each to their own if they want to hear it and put up with it. But when they can get noses and mouths through the fence that's when I start to worry. And being able to see the passing traffic for many dogs would cause a bigger problem than just hearing them going past, particularly those that sit at the fence scanning the street for the next passer by.

Dogs behind front fences (particularly that they can see thorugh and get their heads through) drive me insane!!! There is one house I walk past with my 2 and they have a JRT who is just awful (I'm sure it's a lovely dog but when people or dogs walk past the fence it is the exact opposite!). And of course my dogs get riled up at it. kenzie now knows the house and is on alert everytime we are near it. the thing that bothers me with this one is that it can get it's head through the fence. I keep my dogs as fr from the fence as I can but I worry about what would happen if someone went past and didn't know the dog was there or what if a kid was running close to the fence or decided to put their hand through the fence. I just find it a scary thought!!! And agree Jules, I worry about the stress levels of the dog behind the fence in having to "look after" their space.

I have a reactive dog (well sometimes she is reactive, we're much better now) and it is always my responsibility to make sure that she is safe and those around her aren't bothered by her "moments". I'm lucky everyone in my training group understands her. But I always take a wide berth around other dogs, even with my super friendly Hamish because I don't know the other dog, if I see that they are approachable (which is usually through conversation with the owner!) then he can say hello. But standing in an entrance walkway with a reactive dog is just stupidity. And having them off leash (when it sounds like it wasn't a necessity at that moment), again not so clever. At agility training Kenz comes off leash when she needs to be only, because then I can manage the situation for her. Now that she is more comfortable around the other dogs I know our distances and which dogs she can be off leash around - it's just about thinking and reading other dogs. Definitely agree with reporting it as an incident. If she didn't apologise or at least give you some sort of polite explanation then she might need a reminder from the club about the expectations of managing behaviour and manners.

Interesting about the black shampoo and some people not really finding it that effective as I have sort of been thinking the same thing with the one I've used on Hamish adn didn't know if it was because I had a cheap one or if it just isn't as effective. Maybe that is the answer! I guess I might try another black to see how it goes but will certainly heed the advice about the colour running and not getting it on whites, so will look for that detail on the labels!! Now to filter through and think about whites!!! I try not to wash my dogs too often so hopefully won't have the problems that can happen with the whites, but I'll be cautious! About a month or so ago I realised that Kenz hadn't had a bath in months and there was a high likelihood that Hamish had had more baths in his short time with me than Kenzie ever had!!

So, I started using a white and a black shampoo on Hamish because he goes and does some shows. Anyway, I started with just whatever I could find (because I had no idea what to get and no time to get something good!), but I will need some more in the nearish future and am wondering what other people use and your thoughts on them. I have been recommended Kelco, which I will likely try, and I know that I will possibly have to try a few different sorts to get a good idea. Both my kids are BC's and are black and white. And now that I've been using these on Hamish I like them so will probably use them on Kenzie as well periodically. Also do you dilute down your shampoos to make them last longer (and I guess maybe be nicer to the coat)? Any thoughts welcome!

There was a thread on this not long ago I think. Google dogstardaily and get the free Ian Dunbar ebooks "Before you get your puppy" and "After you get your puppy" (i think that's their titles!), good place to start. I'd also say have a look at a good breed specific book.

I'm showing my first puppy and I've never done it before! He and I are having lots of fun!! I'm sure it is totally obvious that we have no clue but we're learning and meeting people who help us along the way! Just get in there and have a go!

I work with a dog that has exactly the same problem!!! (she will be relieved to know there is someone else out there like her!!) I don't have a lot of ideas for you other than desensitising. Figure out what it is your dog does love and will do anything for and then use that and reward for any interaction with shiny floor. Just thinking out loud on this... would possibly creating some none-shiny walkways for the dog to get around on the floor and then over time very gradually making these thinner or different surfaces that are closer to shiny floor possibly work? Something that has worked for my dogs if they are worried about things is the "touch" command. I use that all the time with Kenzie, if she is concerned about anything first of all we just look at it and get rewarded for looking at it and then I will move her closer (again rewarding any interaction) and then when we are close enough I ask her to "touch" (and reward). Usually after she's touched whatever it is a few times then she's no longer concerned by it. Obviously it would be a bit different with a floor but similar principles may work. And the great thing is with something like "touch" you can practice it on anything and you can use it in so many different ways!!

In Victoria there is also NADAC agility for which I don't think they have to be desexed (not sure because mine who were registered in the comp were desexed!).

I'll ask another newbie question... where is the secretaries office for picking up catalogues? I've only ever been to see 2 shows at KCC park so I've never had to do anything before other than find the dogs I was interested in looking at!! I'm assuming there are maps there somewhere to indicate where the different groups rings are??

Agree I like to see training philosophies, if there is anything that is expressly NOT allowed I want to know that straight away and also if there is anything that MUST be done. I like to see achievements of people in the club, some action shots of classes or people with their dogs, I personally like to see photos of instructors with their dogs (and with the instructors name so that you can familiarise yourself with them, actually same thing for committee members). If it's volunteer based I also like that emphasised and with a "how you can help" section (our club is volunteer based and it is still only the instructors and committee that do things even though everyone could help out just by doing simple things like helping put out/away the water buckets, poo bins, signs, etc but I think they just assume it gets done by others).

My old girl was on Propalin, when she was having some complications with some surgery and was on a myriad of drugs we had to take her off that for a little while to make sure it wasn't contributing to any of the problems and she didn't have any accidents during the time she was taken off it, but from what I discussed with my vet that can just happen - they go for some time with no accidents and then suddenly it all starts again. Looks like you're on the right track to finding out what's going on!

I use Biozet to clean pet stains on the carpet. Hamish vomited up most of a chicken carcass this morning and after cleaning up the chunky bits it was all Biozet-ed away!! I find Biozet seems to work well on most things. But Bi-carb should be good at extracting smell out if you use heaps of it.

Do a water test yourself as a starting point because "a lot" doesn't really tell anyone anything. Do this by keeping him completely separate from your other dog for 24 hours and measure the exact amount of water he drinks (I used to fill the water bowl 1 litre at a time, refill as necessary and measure any remaining at the end of 24 hours). It best not to do this on a hot day as that will influence water intake. Once you have a quantity water that has been consumed then a vet will be in a better place to see if it's excessive (in general most dogs will drink up to 100ml per kg of body weight per day; when my old dog was diagnosed diabetic she was consuming 2.2L even though she only weighed 17kg so this was a significant amount more than she should have been drinking and clearly indicated more tests were needed). Also a urine test and blood test wouldn't go astray even if it does end up for you having peace of mind. I don't know anything about Samoyds, but they seem to have a lot of hair!!! Maybe they don't cope with change of temperature as well as other breeds? Like I said I've got no idea. But if you're worried and the vet you're seeing isn't putting your mind at ease go and see a different vet for a second opinion.

Carrum beach. Aha!! That's not far from my Mum and Dad's which is convenient!!! Maybe one day you will see a goofy boofhead boy BC and a zany manic racing girl BC there and then you will know it is us!!

Just be friendly and if you have questions ask them, and if you forget the questions you can always do a follow-up phone call or email. I always wonder about deposits, my breeder has never requested a deposit and I don't think they particularly like deposits. But they like to place their puppies based on the pups personality traits. I always wonder how a decision is made when pups are just born or a couple of weeks old as to who they will go to, obviously other than the simple what colour are they criteria. So if I met a breeder who was taking deposits that would be something I would discuss with them to find out how those decisions are made. I also know a lot of people say don't take a deposit with you but organise for a transfer after you've been to visit (just in case something doesn't feel quite so right when you leave you have time to think about it before making a committment, and I personally wouldn't pay a deposit unless I'd actually seen the puppies of the litter and had some sort of paperwork indicating which pup I was getting and what happens if circumstances change between leaving deposit and time of puppy pick up). Sorry I've been very distracted talking about deposits!! Something to keep in the back of your mind - it is very easy to get caught up playing with dogs/puppies and talking for hours, don't overstay your welcome!! Sometimes people don't mind how long you stay, but they still have the rest of their life to go on with!! when I've gone to see both mine as pups the week or so before they came home I took nothing with me, I did leave a blankie for Hamish to bring home with him when I picked him up. And I generally just had a conversation about the parents personalities and what they were like performance wise (as I want dogs that I can do work with). Also if you are wanting a pup on main register it is good to start that conversation earlier rather than later. And as I was there with the pups we had a chat about each of the pups and the personality traits that were showing through in them at the time (my breeder chose Kenzie for me based on her personality and how that would fit with my previous dog, I chose Hamish but based on what I was told about all the boys personalities).