Leema

I sucked it up and paid the postage for a big box. I only was sending two interstate, so it wasn't a big deal in the scheme of things. The breeder I got my pup from just sent paperwork by mail (A4 envelope) and left me to buy puppy food (advised what I should buy) and then a blanket and toy in the crate with the puppy.

I don't. Most insurance companies only cover desexed and annually-vaccinated pets. Mine are neither. I have a 'dog account' which I put money into weekly, but I'm pretty good at saving anyway so it's not really a big deal.

It's a must've. I swear I learnt more about dogs from the first chapter of that book than in the year preceding. ... But I also haven't got all the way through it yet! I'm about halfway through.

I get an even mix. I get enquiries for bitches "because they're cleaner", and enquiries for dogs mostly from youngish couples or single blokes. Most come to me wanting a particular sex to begin with - but they seem perhaps willing to change their mind. In my last litter one boy puppy when to a home that wanted a girl. I guess a boy is better than nothing!

I'd like to have a Champion class (after Aus Bred, and Open, there is Champion), but not to have the point system be anything special. The champion class would just be restricted to dogs with the champion title.

I just get my PP40s from airline companies. I think last time I checked Virgin Blue was the cheapest. (You can also try Australian Air Express, Jet Pets, and Dogtainers for crate costs.) I think a PP40 would be okay size for a cocker, but I'll let a cocker-person answer that!

Interesting story online about a hermaphrodite french bulldog (only posted yesterday): http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2011/...10323140245.htm

In my breed, I'd do B. In breeds where hips are a problem, I'd do C. It's a lot of money to import to end up with a dog that is unsuitable to breed from.

I have managed to lose Winona's collar and lead, so now I get to buy a new one. Does anyone have any suggestions? The only provisos are that 1) the collar/lead combo has to be of thing/light weight material (dog is only little), and 2) not leather.

Thank-you very much for your responses.

Labrador x poodles are not a breed. They are a cross breed. There are some people who breed labrador x poodles and keep pedigree (i.e. family tree) records. In this way they do have a 'pedigree', but this does not mean that it is a breed.

Is it illegal to have a dog unrestrained in the tray of a ute? According to what legislation or act?

Sorry if this has made it here before: http://positivecanineguidance.com/?p=1023

I have a coownership agreement, too, that I'd be happy to email out. Anyone interested can reach me at [email protected]

Try advertising them on Freecycle or GumTree - free to good home.

The 'wait until it stops biting' is for the dog to learn that it is ineffective to bite. When a dog is not dangerous, then it is effective. You can see it being used with adult dogs in this video: I agree with you re: treats as reward instead of patting, considering the dog is not finding it rewarding. If the dog does not find touching rewarding, then the behaviours will not increase.

Diced beef or chicken hearts fit the bill here.

I know, right!! I've encouraged her to pick up metal stuff - like my keys, etc (which she would pick up by the metal, not the plastic key ring). I probably won't trial her, and may not even keep her, but I want to keep the behaviour!

My puppy has no aversion to metal, and has enjoyed carrying around a mini-spanner, a screwdriver, and beer bottle tops!

My puppy is a barker. I have had neighbourhood complaints regarding my adult dogs' barking (mostly unwarranted), but seeing as I have fussy neighbours I want to put a stop to this behaviour ASAP. The first step to problem barking is always ascertaining why the dog is barking. This is why she barks: *Because she has a toy (or an stick or a something) and she's barking at it in fun/play *Because of barrier frustration (there is a dog or person on the other side of a gate or door which she would like) *Because an adult dog is not playing with her ("play with me!, play with me!, play with me!" barks) I can't confiscate all toys, because she will find her own 'toys' to bark at. She'll pick up a stick, or a bit of pipe, or a leaf, and do the same thing. I can't find a solution to this problem. Barking with barrier frustration she has learnt doesn't work with me - she is doing it less and less. It has never worked (she has never had a door open while she's barking) so she has ceased to do it for the most part. What used to be several minutes of barking is now just one or two woofs if I close the door on her. So this is not a big problem, and a problem that is being solved at the moment. The other dogs reward her barking - they give in to the "play with me!" bark, and if she barks at a barrier between them, they'll go smooch up to her. They are rewarding her barking so I don't know how to combat this problem. Any suggestions are welcome.

I haven't read the whole thread, but why don't you clicker train a retrieve for the tug toy? Many dogs will learn to find this rewarding in itself, once they get the hang of it.

And these ones were sleeping before I rudely awoke them: How about sleeping babies?

Thanks. I have read his chapter on village dogs, but haven't bought the book yet to go further. It is in my plans, however. ETA: The book is 'Dogs', by the way. If you have further suggestions please let me know.

What do you think will gain more attention in dog training in the near future? I think what is called 'positive training' (which is actually non-adversive, 'mild positive punishment if any' training) will continue to gain steam, and correction/compulsion/traditional training will further diminish. In terms of attention, more attention would be given to the goods of positive and the bads of compulsion which would ultimately cause this swing. Additionally, I think we're going to see simplification of dog training - Ian Dunbar style. What would you like to see become common place? I'd like to see more qualified individuals training - yes, theory qualifications. I'd like to see more regulation of the dog training/dog behaviourist sphere which would ultimately mean less consumers being 'taken for a ride' by those less than qualified. What do you think needs more development or better understanding? Ultimately, I'd like more research into wild dogs (e.g. village dogs) so we can gain an understanding of what dogs naturally want to do. For too long we have used a wolf model (e.g. "dogs are pack animals" while all studies I've read regarding village dogs see dogs roaming mostly by themselves, in pairs, and rarely, in threes, and only when a bitch is in season forming groups that are larger). Paul McGreevy, at his recent Adelaide Seminar, was talking about trying to research what good dog trainers actually do - e.g. rate of reinforcement, leash tension, etc. Though this may disregard the individuality of dogs, it would nonetheless be of interest.

I have never bothered to try to find a crate big enough for greyhounds! But I just use a puppy pen to confine my greyhounds inside when I can't supervise them. If you are not in the position to constantly supervise when Pia is inside, then you will continue to have accidents. Either get a crate/puppy pen for when you can't supervise inside, or leave her outside if you can't supervise inside.