Leema

So what do you think a responsible dog owner is? How do you define it? I started with "obey laws" (regarding leash laws, registration, etc) - but then I didn't know where to go from there. :laugh:

Hi Pookie. So sorry to hear of your troubles. I am sure someone a lot more knowledgeable than me will be able to give you some more well rounded answers, but to the best of my knowledge... Yes, if the court decides that Pookie is a restricted breed, he can be destroyed. The climate is rather new with breed legislation in Victoria and it's hard to know you chances of getting a declaration of restricted dog breed repealed. The council probably thought that declaring Pookie as a restricted breed was the easier way in order to seek his destruction. If I was your in shoes, I'd be fighting too. What evidence do you have that Pookie is not a pit bull? Where did you acquire him from? Can they (the seller) prove his breed/s? I do not know how breed assessors work, but that may be a means for you to have him shown to be non-pittie. That being said, your dog was still roaming at large and intimidated people. At the very least, I expect that your fences/gates will need to be seriously addressed if you ever get custody of Pookie again.

They could be crated for 16 hours some day, but it happens less than once a fortnight (far less). One dog loves the crate and it's a battle to get him to come out for any reason. :laugh: The other two would probably prefer to be out, but I much prefer the security of them crated inside so tough for them.

My 'rule' with crates is that dogs should not be crated for more than 12 hours at a time. My dogs are crated for night (9:30pm-5:30am or later) - so 8+ hours, everyday. Depending on circumstances and what I'm doing that particular day, they may be also crated for 8 hours while I'm at work, too. Normally I work from home, but sometimes it doesn't happen. Sometimes I have rescue dogs on the premises and for some reason cannot run everyone at once (conflicting temperament, kennel cough), in which case they need to be 'rotated' between yards and their crates. As the original poster seems to be talking about a temporary solution, I would have no qualms with the dog being crated for a week or two until the fencing situation is rectified. Indeed, I'd have no qualms with the dog being crated while the owners are at work on an ongoing basis, assuming the dog has sufficient exercise morning and/or night.

Yes, I have heard of this, but I still don't know how it works. It seems to violate national guidelines which recommends that the final vaccine be given no later than 16 weeks. http://www.ava.com.au/policy/67-vaccination-dogs-and-cats

+1 for Vasectomy and Tubal Ligation. For full desexing, the risks of anaesthetic and and cost isn't that different to an adult dog. I would be more concerned about developmental risks than the surgery itself.

In the boarding kennels we worked at, we had a dog called "Nose Peg". We also had a pair called "Numba One" and "Numba Two". People seem to react in funny ways when I tell them that my puppy's name is "Myrtle". They either think it's awful or awesome. I think it's awesome, obviously. :laugh: My first dog was called "MacDogald".

Yay. I look forward to when the RSPCA doesn't not have to inspect ANYTHING, and they can work on being a good charity and a good shelter - instead of doing everything badly.

I love the owner's honest account! "not usually very smart" and "really dopey". Lucky day for George.

I think your feedings are probably a bit close together. I feed at 6am, midday, 6pm, and bedtime (as late as possible). I can't imagine my puppies would eat 4 meals in 12 hours either! As long as you're sure all puppies are eating something, and no one is fading away, I wouldn't be too worried. Puppies don't have to be fat to be healthy. :)

Hi Skuzy. I went to Ian Dunbar's seminars in Melbourne recently, and I'm in the process of writing up all my notes on my blog. If you look around my blog you'll find lots of other bits that may be of interest, but I think this is the part most relevant to your statement: http://leemakennels.com/blog/puppies/long-term-confinement-area-for-puppies/ Dunbar actually argues for puppies to be trained to use part of a pen for sleeping and part of a pen for toiletting, using turf at one end and beds at the other. This is the beginnings of toilet training. He also asks for all puppies to be fed exclusively from food toys, in order to maximise the likelihood of learning 'good' behaviours and minimise opportunities for bad habits to form. Do breeders actually set up pens like this? Yes, I do. My puppies are raised in a long term confinement area as specified. Most puppies develop a preference for peeing and pooing on turf by the time they go. I haven't used chew toys extensively, but plan to give it a go next litter. My puppies are socialised with many people before they leave at 8 weeks. At 4 weeks, they come out with me in my arms to shopping centres etc, and meet many people. They probably see over 100 people, but they are handled by about 50, before they leave at 8 weeks. On a non-Dunbar note, my puppies are used to sleeping in a crate at night, by themselves, and also for meals during the day. I think this is especially important for any pups that will by flying interstate to their new homes. There are plenty of breeders that don't do what Dunbar does, but their puppies are no means a disaster. Dunbar described his recommendations as 'making up for any undesirables in the dog's genetic temperament'. To me, most of my dogs are genetically good, but by doing work in socialising, toilet training, and crate training, I can make them better than good.

I worked at an animal shelter, in their boarding kennels, for three years. I then got my current position, co-ordinator of the Delta Dog Safe program. I have been doing this for just over two years. I have a couple of plans I'd like to try; The first is, I'd like to do my Graduate Diploma of Psychology, to then do Honours in Psychology, and perhaps specialise in animal (particularly dog) behaviour. Secondly, I'd like to become dog trainer on paper through the NDTF or Delta course. My long term goals is to perhaps run a shelter and/or boarding kennels and dog training business (especially with children) in regional areas. It's a long way away, but I've got plenty to do in the meantime.

I haven't got any of these "you're too expensive" emails from PetRescue, but I do know that they make their rounds. I think replying in an educational way is the best option. I (as most rescues, I'm sure, do) keep pretty good records of my expenses and can explain the costs involved. I would've replied in a very similar way to you. Kudos for keeping your cool.

I'm not sure if a belly band would even collect the enormous amount this dog pees? When he cocks his legs, it's a gush, and it splashes everywhere! I use vinegar to clean up pee, but he is not returning to the same spots. Anything vertical is fair game as far as he's concerned.

Re: Cleaning synthetic grass Depending on the number of puppies and the frequency of use, yes, it can start to smell. Sometimes a piece of grass can last me a week, sometimes just a couple of days. I normally wash it if it starts to smell, or if I get a stubborn poo that won't get off. I spot clean poos when they occur. I put the piece of grass through the washing machine once I decide to clean it. I have about 5 pieces of grass, so never go short. The best thing about the synthetic grass is that is somewhat like what most dogs will toilet on as adults, so it starts toilet training early. The other thing is that any wee goes through it, so puppies don't get covered in pee if they walk on a spot that was weed on. The worst thing is trying to clean it, as you guys have noted. ;)

If anything, this dog has gotten worse. We have solved the toileting in the laundry/on his bed at night by leaving the door open to the laundry. But now he has started cocking his leg inside a bunch. In the past 24 hours he's cocked his leg on things thrice! I caught him in the act twice (and stopped him once, a fourth time, before anything came out), and put him outside each time (which he doesn't like). He was a bit pee-y when he arrived 5-6 weeks ago, but he had this huge lull with no interest for 4 weeks or so, but it seems like we're back to peeing! He's only peed inside without being 'caught in the act' two or maybe three times in the whole 6 weeks - I don't get why he still wants to do it! I do praise him when I see him pee outside, but I don't go out and deliberately wait for him to pee.

I voted that, no, I don't because of 'too many prior conditions' - but that's not really correct. I don't have pet insurance because I do not vaccinate annually, and my pets are entire - and these seem to be requirements of most pet insurance.

Thanks for all the leads, everyone. I'll do some snooping soon and give some of these people a call to have a chat about the breed. They seem pretty cool. :)

My puppies are on blankets until they're mobile, then they are on synthetic grass and blankets until they are walking well. Then they move inside (normally about 4 weeks) and are on tiles (with synthetic grass toilet). ETA: You can get marine carpet from Bunnings. :)

Thank-you for those with information. Would love to know of the Murray Bridge kennel with an Otterhound (if it did exist!). What kennel owns Otterhound(s?) in NZ? I couldn't find it on DOL, but I remember seeing it on there at some point.

Yes, apparently there are only 600 in the world or something.

Are there any otterhounds in Australia or NZ? What are they like?

Or tracking, seeing that already exists. ;) :) All my terriers do earthdog. :) So I have no qualms with any functionality tests.

+1 I have saved two dogs from Blacktown, both were desexed there. Each dog cost me about $350 to desex, vacc, chip, and fly to SA. They didn't need to be registered as I provided evidence that I was in SA (driver's licence etc).

Is 'all efforts' legislated and how is it defined? I don't think legislation to this effect is in SA, at least.