~Anne~

They're just one of many different groups all trying to do their part. I cant really see the problem. I agree that using a pedigree dog, that is a desirable breed, is possibly a confusing message to be sending. You can't automatically assume that they're against purebred breeding though. That's a bit of a jump. They may mean not to purchase from pet shops. In which case, a fluffy is some description would have been better as these are the most common types in pet shops. I don't agree with every tactic or objective they stand for but then I find that many groups these days do soemthing that I personally don't agree with. Rescue is huge now. We all have different ways of viewing it. We all have strengths and weaknesses. We all, mostly, do what we think is best for the dogs and cats.

I hope today brings more good news Rach. Sending loads of good health vibes.

If your dog thrives on it, feed it. I have, and will continue to, feed commercial foods both dry and tinned. For the most part, one of my dogs is fed a natural cooked diet. Raw makes him sick. However, I still feed commercial as well. Sometimes I feed commercial when I have run out of cooked mince for him or when beef and or chicken mince is up around the $13 per kilo mark. At the moment, he is on tinned food while he is being pet sat. I am away and it's easier. When feeding tinned I feed natures gift. My other dog only eats kibble. She is on a specific diet to prevent bladders stones. She is thriving.

We have a few DOLers in the Illawarra and South Coast.

My vet accepts that I do not vaccinate adult dogs once they've had their initial vacs. He's never even tried to suggest anything else. I use Peter Davis and David Chaffey at Kiama.

There is no dog over population problem. It's a myth. There are less dogs per capita now then there were 20 years ago according to stats from various reputable sources including the bureau of stats. There are many reasons why dogs are being killed in shelters and too many dogs in this country is not one of them. It doesn't matter if they are cross bred or pure bred.

Eggs can lay dormant for a couple of years to my knowledge so expect to be fighting the battle for up to 2 years. Buy plenty of flea bombs and use them regularly. Vacuum the dog bedding and your carpets and empty the bag every time in a plastic bag and tie it tight. Eucalyptus is a natural repellent so wash the dogs beds first in a flea wash to kill eggs and fleas and then let them dry. If the bedding isnt washable, make the rinse up in a spray bottle and spray them every day. With the washable ones, once dry, give them a good rinse with eucalyptus in the water and let them dry again. Use Capstar twice a week for the first two weeks and then reduce to weekly for a few weeks. Wash your hard floors with eucalyptus in the water. It also smells lovely. If you really go at it hammer and tongs for the first 6 months or more you will get on top of a bad flea infestation. You have to really keep at it though and understand that the current and future eggs can be dormant for a couple years and still hatch.

:laugh: sorry, I think you misunderstood the chicken comment. I was using the age old query statement of "what came first, the chicken or the egg" and comparing that to the crystals versus infection argument. We also give pet milk mixed with water in the mornings or sometimes yoghurt mixed with water. Anything to encourage fluid intake.

My vet believes it's a chicken and egg scenario. The infections causing the alkinlinty which helps the formation of crystals or the alkinlinty causing the alkinlinty which helps the infection to develop. After recurring bouts of infection and the two surgeries on Olivia for stones we took a sample direct from the bladder and then put her on long term antibiotics and the prescriptives diet. She was on antibiotics for 6 weeks. We've never had a problem since thankfully. We are very strict with her diet and she is encouraged to drink. She has a broth each morning for breakfast and her water is changed daily as she doesn't like stale water. The prescriptives also ensure she is thirsty too.

Way to go Coles.

Still keeping the faith he will be found. If I was in the area I'd go and help look for him. The poor little guy.

My two have different diets and it doesn't worry them. Boof has cooked meat, veges and fruit. Olivia just has her kibble. Sometimes ill add a touch of Boof's food to her kibble but not much.

Butchers who supply to Islamic communities will have goat meat. It's quite commonly found in many butchers really.

As you already know, it seems you have two distinct issues. Allergy and struvites. With an elimination diet, the protein source has to be one the dog has definitely never had. With rescues I used goat meat as the one I thought would be novel to most dogs. Roo, beef, lamb and chicken are commonly found in various forms in commercial dog foods. They can also be used to flavour kibbles and so most dogs have possibly come across them in their life. You need a protein that the dogs body has not had before and never had the chance to develop a reaction too. The idea is to see if the dog stops reacting when on the elimination diet. If it does, you know for sure it was one of the food ingredients setting the reaction off. You reintroduce food types one by one to determine which one. In the dogs I idid it was commonly beef, chicken and one also had dairy issues. You also add a carb to the diet to add bulk and provide some energy. I chose sweet potato. Given your dog also develops struvites you will need to add a couple of other things but I am not knowledgeable enough on that area to give advice. Your vet could though. Salt would be one addition and possibly some vit c. I am lucky that Olivia is fine on Prescriptives CD kibble and we have not had a recurrence of infection or crystals for 4 or 5 years. Her diet, for me, is very easy.

The crystals turn into stones. Olivia, before she came to me, had undergone two operations to remove stones. The largest was the size of a small mandarin. The stones block the bladder and the smaller ones can actually be passed and cause immense pain or block the urethra. Crystals should be avoided, the urine kept acidic and at worst neutral, infections treated when they arise and the dog should be encouraged to drink to flush the bladder to stop the crystals collecting up and forming into stones. There are different types of crystal formation and the information I am giving is specific to struvite crystals.

Most allergies that show with yeast infection are diet related. I'd be pretty confident that the skin condition is food related. You may also have environmental factors of course. The crystals are usually a whole other ball gam and if liver and kidney diseases have been ruled out then all you can do is manage the condition as many of us do.

Sorry, I just thought I should correct this. It's less likely to take hold, not "it won't"

There is a natural raw diet you can feed to dogs that develop struvites. I will find it and post it up. You should also encouraging drinking which you probably already know. One easy way to encourage drinking is to add salt to the diet. I have a pug who develops struvites. Thankfully though she is fine on the prescriptives kibble and has never had a problem since she has been on this. A cheap way of testing for crystals is to get her to wee on newspaper and leave it to dry. Then hold it up to sunlight and you will see crystals shining if there are any. You can buy dipsticks from the chemist to check for ph level.

RIP Joey. *cyber hugs to you Jules* He was obviously a very much loved boy.

Westiemum, I also add fruit sometimes. Boof particular likes apple and pears. I have to cook his mince because it upsets his stomach raw so I throw the veges and fruit in with it. I cook it in a little water ad the broth is then his breakfast drink each morning for both he and Olivia. I warm it up in Winter.

I don't think you can determine if abuse has taken place irrefutably. Your statement that unless you see it is the only way to know is what I would consider a correct response. I have known dogs that are hand shy, but not been hit. Dogs that will cower when a male walks into a room, but they've not been abused by a man. I've seen dogs that have been physically abused and they show no fear of people, hands or anything else. There are too many variables to make any conclusive judgement.

Great news.

:laugh: actually, that was the only thing I could think of too!

That's sad.

Why has the trainer suggested the change in diet? Is there a health problem with your dog? Sorry, I'm just trying to figure out the link between trainer and health and or diet advice.