~Anne~

I also have an avid stone eater. I would come home after work and pick him up to cuddle him and I could actually hear the stones clicking together in his stomach!! He would go to the toilet and it would be filled with stones... and these were not small stones! mopmop - going by your id I would say you have a Pug? (plus I think I have seen you in the Pug thread??) Pugs are notorious for eating the most bizarre things. The only way to stop it is to get rid of the stones. We blocked off the side path of our house where our stones were and now my Pug can not eat them. As to why they eat them?.... They just do.

Could it be the onset of senility perhaps??

Yes, at least once a week I feed my dogs sardines.

I am currently giving Monte 'Nature's Own - Odourless Fidh Oil with Omega 3' and the are 1000mg. He has one tablet per day. I also give him a Vit B tablet (low dose only) as I am told that a low dose Vit B also helps with epilepsy.

It might be... and it might not be. I don't think there is anyway of really determining this for certain. I haven't heard anything particular about this product but that isn't to say there isn't some warning some where. I give my epileptic Sentinel and have never noticed any change in his seizure activity. He has also had Advantage and Advantix with no ill effects.

Most Vets recognise that a brachy needs particular care. A general Vet should be fine to perform the op. There is no need for a specialist.

I have already had him to the vet and have been treating it for 6 days. The vet didnt tell me anything about it being so contagious. We dont have other animals, only kids who dont touch Maverick anyway. Is it only the ringworm on his face that is contagious or is it his saliva and fur too He comes insaide alot but only sits on his mat. Should I leave him outside? I obviously have been washing my hands after treating his ringworm twice a day and I am trying not to pat him. I am amazed that your Vet didn't at least warn you to ensure the children wash their hands. It is only the affected area that is contagious. It is good that you don't have other pets. He is fine to have inside but it is best that he is confined to an area while the ringworm is active. I can't recall how long this is, perhaps some one else can advise, but I woudl think that by day 6 it shuld almsot be under control. You should also wash his bedding to ensure he doesn't re-infect himself. There is no need to keep him outside. This is from the Gladesville Vet Hospital website; Ringworm can spread from animals to people, from people to animals and both can catch the infection from the soil. Fungal spores are shed from infected skin, where they can survive in the environment for months to years before causing infection. People and animals with a weaker immune system (they are young, old, sick or on certain medications) are at greater risk of developing a ringworm skin infection. Some animals are only diagnosed when a human member of the family develops a skin lesion. Several different techniques can be used to try to diagnose a ringworm infection in animals. About 50% of the most common type of dermatophyte fungi will fluoresce under an ultraviolet light, so this is the easiest way to confirm an infection. If there is no fluorescence under a UV lamp, then other methods such as examination of a hair sample under the microscope (though the spores are very difficult to find) and fungal cultures (though this will often take 2 weeks) can be used to try to confirm the disease. In rare instances a skin biopsy may be the only way to diagnose the problem. If you are suspicious that your pet may have ringworm (for example if members of the family started to get ringworm lesions after a new kitten was purchased, or your pet has unexplained skin lesions) then an appointment should be made for the pet to be examined by a vet. If the animal is diagnosed with ringworm, or sometimes if we are just strongly suspicious of ringworm, we can start a treatment plan to try to clear the infection and minimise the risk of further lesions in the pet and other family members. This treatment generally involves a dual approach, in that it is necessary to treat the affected pet or pets, as well as the household environment (because the spores can be so long-lasting). Oral medication is available, but as these medications inhibit fungal reproduction rather than directly killing the ringworm, the course will often need to last 1-2 months. Washing the pet in an antifungal shampoo (often twice weekly) helps to control the infection and reduce environmental contamination. The other part of the approach to dealing with a ringworm infection involves decontamination of the environment. Thorough frequent vacuuming of the carpets and areas that the animal spends time can reduce the contamination of the environment and reduce the risk of further problems. Steam cleaning the carpets, although not hot enough to kill spores, would help to reduce contamination even more than vacuuming. After solid surfaces have been cleaned, they can be disinfected (a 1:10 solution of bleach, left on for 10 minutes is effective, but this must only be used on surfaces that aren’t going to be damaged by the bleach). I hope this helps. :D

I feed my dogs 1 cap per day. My dogs average at around 8- 9 kilos. My epilpetics Neuro recommended this dosage.

Ringworm is a highly contagious and infectious fungus condition. You, your family and any other animals in the house or that come into contact with the infected dog are also at risk of contracting ringworm if you do not seek immediate treatment and isolate the dog that has it. Take your dog to the Vet where they will determine if it is ringworm and then prescribe an ointment to clear it. They will also advise you on hygiene practises that you will have to follow to prevent the spread of the ringworm and to prevent re-infection. Under NO circumstance should you let it 'go away on it's own'!

Most Veterinary Specialists require a referral but not always. Sorry, I can't help with a Neuro though as I am in NSW. Perhpas google or ask your Vet.

Interestingly though many people I have spoken to with epi dogs seem to think that they have more seizures in Summer?? I put this to Monte's Neuro once and she also thinks that the Summer months see more dogs having seizures.

I would be getting another opinion quite frankly. Of all the epileptic dogs I know (and that is a lot) and after my own personal experiences and discussions with Vets, Canine Neurologists and people who understand this condition I have never, ever had one that believes a dog is better off not being on anti-epileptic medication to prevent seizures, rather then letting them continue to have seizures. Phenobarb is not the only anti-epi medication either. Potassium Bromide is another drug and does not have the same side effects that pheno does, athough it does have side effects like most drugs. There are also others, such as Keppra. Pheno does not cause weight gain either. It does cause an increase in appetite but the only way your dog will gain weight is if you feed it too much. Plain and simple. Dogs get fat because humans feed them too much, not because a dog is a pig or because of medication it is on. Rappie (who incidently is a Vet) who posted above also states that with a dog having regular seizures as you described, she would be considering medication. My dog has been on Pheno for 4 years and has not had any issues with it apart from the usual side effects which is managed successfully. He does want to eat more, but I don't let him. He is on high doses of pheno and so he isn't as active as my other dogs but this doesn't worry me or him. He drinks more water and he urinates more, neither of which are an issue and he suffers from ataxia which again doesn't worry him or hurt him. He has regualr liver function tests and these have shown no damage to his liver. With every seizure your dog has, she is being damaged more and she is at risk of dying or from suffering organ damage, such as damage to the brain. Another issue is that the 'pathways' to seizure become easier with every siezure, it is believed, and so you are at risk of her seizures becoming worse. :rolleyes: No offence, but your statement is ludicrous. There are many causes of seizures. Epilepsy is not caused by vaccinations. Seizures may occur if a dog has a reaction to vaccination but epilepsy is a name given to 'seizures of no known cause'. Seizures that occur due to vaccinations occur within hours of the vaccination usually also.

I agree with Varicool. Why isn't your dog on a preventative medicine? You state that she has a seizure every 6 - 8 weeks and she has been having seizures for 3 years or more. To me, that would definitely warrant preventatives. Interesting it is given as a subcut injection too... I always thought it was iv or im? Also, why is it given after a seizure? Is there a risk of her clustering or going into status? Usually, the only reason you dose them up on diazapam is to prevent a cluster or to prevent status and if your dog only ever has one seizure, aren't you 'shutting the gate after the horse has bolted' so to speak?

There may simply be no trigger. Not all epileptics have triggers.... the majority don't. Most epileptics have seizures in the evenings and many will have them after they go to sleep. Monte has the majority of his between 11pm - 5am although he has had them in the morning, the afternoon and the early evening. He hasn't any known triggers either.

In backing up what Miranda has said (and I believe it is not 'opinion' but fact) that the colostrum is the ONLY time that a puppy recieves any antibodies from the mother. Colostrum, as is well known, is only secreted by the mammary glands for the first 48 hours maximum. The only benefit that puppies recieve after this is that the bitches milk provides some protection of the gastrointestinal tract which is where many viruses enter the system.

I was fortunate to be able to attend the Dr Dodds seminar on Thursday night in Brisbane. I picked up on many points but this one I thought may interest those who are currently titre testing. Dr Dodds explained that once a level of immunity has been reached it stabilises and that is the level the dog has for life and there is no need to re-test titres. She explained that the levels will change only if your dog has come into contact with one of the viruses. In which case the levels will rise and then, within a period of time, they will go back to what they normally sit. She also stated that any level at all means the dog is protected and the current practise of labs and or Vets saying the level is 'too low' is incorrect. If the dog registers a level of immunity then that is it. The body will raise the levels naturally when the dog comes into contact with the virus and then the levels will once again drop back to what they were pre-contact.

The competition - who can get the last word in.

You only need to worm every 3 months if your dog is; - in regular contact with other dogs and their droppings - you are in a high worm infestation area I use Sentinel Spectrum which covers heart worm, fleas and all intestinal worms and is given monthly. My dogs are in the higher risk category though due to the rescues coming and going.

I agree iin most part to what Ellz has said about your dog training you and the fact that a dog will not willingly starve itself. However, I can't see there being an issue if you aren't concerned about flies, maggots and the food spoiling that is left out. If this is the way it works best for, and you can prevent the issues above, then by all means let him graze all day. I, like puggy puggy, have Pugs and it is simply impossible to leave food out as they eat it all immediately and would eat until they were sick (which they have done on oaccssion when they have burgled their way into food).

NO!!! REALLY!!! WHO WOULD HAVE THOUGHT!

rovaaround, I am not really sure what your problem is, but I highly recommend that you lose the attitude and learn how to use quotes successfully.

I have just learnt a very good lesson this weekend about skin irritants.... lemon essence irritates skin! My husband kindly bathed the dogs for me while I was testing out my new Dyson vaccum and he used some lesson essence in their bath thinking it would make them smell fresh.... he bought them all down stairs and commented to me that two of them must have had small cuts on their feet and the lemon might be stining it as they were both suddenly holding their feet up. I took one look and could see all three weren't feeling comfortable and thought straight away that perhaps it had irritated their skin. I used the shower hose to rinse them all again but they were still in obviosu discomfort, particularly Monte. When I looked at hisunderside he was all red under his arms. I rang David, my Vet, and he suggested filling the bath up with tepid water and let them sit in it for up to 10 minutes. Thankfully after I had done this they were fine. Lesson learnt - lemon essence may be fine to add to the wash and to clean things with... but don't put it in the dogs bath water!!

Now that's a thought! Although, sweat is produce in glands isn't it... not pores??? Dogs sweat from theor feet I am sure...

Parra Specilaist Centre?? Tell me more. Where, who.... I have not heard of them and Parramatta is very close to me. What areas do they specialise in?

I too bath mine weekly and I have never had an issue with their coats or their skin. Although I can not be certain, I believe that their hair follicles work simialr to ours. The more they are stimulated, ie the more often they are washed, the more oils they produce. I am always very careful to rinse them thoroughly though. I also do another thing that this document says not too. I was in the direction of the hair growth and against it. I also dry them like this. My dogs both have lovely shiny coats and the rescues, if they are with me long enough, to do.