~Anne~

Reading a contraversial thread here has once again brought home the fact that there is a lot of confusion and an alarming lack of knowledge on the 16D exemption by rescuers and their representatives. All professional organisation should know what policies, regulations, laws and by-laws they are operating under. The clause is applicable to the NSW Companion Animals Regulation 2008 only. It does not apply to anyone rescuing dogs in other states. Clarification should be sought from the NSW Department of Local Government for rescuers from interstate who seek to rescue dogs from NSW pounds. Anyone can apply for this exemption clause. The clause simply allows an organisation and its representatives to hold a dog in their care without registering the dog. An organisation does not have to be a 'registered entity' and private rescues can apply. The dog must be microchipped. The dog must be registered prior to the animal leaving the custody of the organisation. Any dog held longer than 12 months with an organisation, and not re-housed in that time, must be registered regardless of a clause exemption being held. Organisations granted an exemption must keep records of ALL animals released under the clause. At a minimum, the following information is to be kept by the organisation: *Date that animal arrives in the organisation’s care *Place from which the animal was sourced (eg council pound, surrendering owner, another organisation) *If applicable, a signed statement from the owner of an animal that is being surrendered and the signed transfer of ownership papers (if the animal is microchipped) or confirmation that this paperwork has been appropriately processed *Identification information of that animal (microchip number) *Name and address of carer/s *Date that animal leaves the organisation’s care *Outcome (eg re-housed, escaped care, euthanased) This recorded information must be forwarded to the NSW Department of Local Government before July 31st every year of the clause being held. Organisations can not 'lend' their exemption to other rescuers unless the dog is being temporarily cared for on behalf of the organisation. Therefore, you can not have another rescuer use your exemption unless they are under YOUR direction and YOU keep the records of the animal. Organisations granted the exemption must notify the Department of Local Government in writing within fourteen (14) days of any changes to the information provided in the application. The application asks for details of all carers, therefore if you have a new carer on board, you must notify them. Any organisation not abiding by the guidelines of the exemption can have their exemption revoked and they sign a declaration when applying for the exemption that CLEARLY outlines their responsibilites, including that ALL CARERS clearly understand their responsibilites in reference to the clause and the Companion Animals Regulation.

Most dogs have 2 actual moult seasons. These occurr when the weather begins to cool and when it begins to heat up. Some breeds, such as the Pug, shed hair all year round and have a heavier shed during moulting. I find washing and brushing help a great deal.

I don't feed treats at all thankfully.

A lot depends on how often you refresh and top up the bowls too. My problem is that I have to refresh their bowls daily as one lad walks around eating sticks and poo all day and then has a drink of water each time...and leaves floaties. The constant refreshing doens't give time for the minerals to leech out of the rock in sufficient quantities.

cortisone :rolleyes:

They can heal without surgery. All it is, as you probably know, is burst vessels causing bleeding between the layers of the skin on the ear. The blood can and will eventually be re-absorbed. Leaving it can sometimes cause secondary complications though and it is always best to have it checked by a Vet.

Thanks. I didn't have the time to check on the spelling yesterday but I knew someone would pick up on what I was referring to. :p

Perhaps a second opinion with another Vet would be in order. Maybe a fresh set of eyes, and the existing test results, will be able put the pieces together.

If he is concious, have you considered that it might be some form of cynocape (sp?) .... where his brain suffers from a lack of oxygen. This can be caused by heart, respiratory and brain conditions I believe. He may be 'fainting' and not actually having a seizure??? I'd head back to the vet or find another for second opinion if it concerns you.

I've used them and they worked well.

Is he concious and aware when he collapses? If he appears to be 'awake' but is not aware of his surroundings or is just staring, then it *might* be a seizure. There are many types of seizures and what you describe could be one. Epilepsy generally starts in dogs betwen the ages of 18 months - 3 years, so he is in the right age category. He could also be collapsing for many other reasons though. What is his manner like immediately before and after the episode? I would have your mobile or a handy cam or camera handy and film the event. Then take him and the video to the vet to see if they can determine what the problem is. On a side note, a siezure does not neccessarily equal epilepsy. Epilepsy is the diagnoses of a condition where the dog suffers seizures of no known cause. Seizures can be caused by illness, disease and trauma as well, and this is not epilpesy.

First time puppy owner, sorry I can't add anything of real value to the thread, but I'd like to say - what a fabulous and caring owner you seem to be. You have really gone the extra mile to help him. You are obviously a wonderful person. I'll be watching the thread with interest. I attended the seminar of Jean Dodds and am curious about the condition now, although I have no direct relevant experience with it.

I have never seen a vet give a cat in for castration a general anyway. The procedure for a cat is far less complicated than it is to castrate a dog (or human).

Sometimes it is not an accident, but negligence on the part of the Vet. I worked with a locum who killed 3 or 4 dogs within as many days due to negligence. Most often though it is just a case of underlying problem or bad luck.

I also use nylabones in lieu of real bones. The nylabones are not a digestiable product, they don't eat them. They are just hard rubber bones that they chew on. When the bones becomes too mangy, you throw it. This takes about 3 - 6 months with my lot.

Erny, a six month old pup hasn't been alive long enough to have adult heartworm living in the heart and there is no need to test. If the dog has picked up heartworm, it would be at the juvenile stage which are called microflaire and these live in the blood stream. The heartworm preventatives will kill microflaire. I use Sentinel Spectrum. It does heartworm, fleas and intestinal worms. I dose every 6 weeks (it is a monthly preparation which is protective for up to 45 days). Sentinel does not kill fleas, but rather, it sterilises them and so it really is only suitable for situations where you have fleas elimanated. It prevents any fleas that do come in touch with your dog from laying fertile eggs and multiplying. In the cases where a dog comes to me with fleas, I give them capstar. The Capstar kills the fleas on the dog. I dose with Sentinel at the same time to stop the cycle. On the odd occassion I have had to give Capstar in a follow up dose 7 days later to kill remaining fleas.

Thanks. Just a quick note, I acutally have a box of Synbiotic D- C capsules here with me... so they must be avialable in Australia?? Although I can't be sure as they were donated to me. From what I read it appears the Pro-kolin paste is what I should use first, which I am, and then the Synbiotic D-C as a continued follow up. Outlaw and becks, how long does it take to work? I must add that this dog could have a medical reason for his problem and so this may not really help a great deal. His owners are OS and will be back in 2 more weeks. I have spoken to them by phone breifly and suggested they have him completely checked out when they return. His problem is long term and the general consenus seems to be that he has a 'sensitive' stomach. I am not so sure of that as he continues to suffer diarrhoea even thought he is only eating chicken breast cooked and raw mince.

Thanks. I am going to google them as well to find out more info. These are both dog specific products.

A very kind and lovely person has donated a tube of Pro-kolin+ and a course of Synbiotic D-C. I thought these might be great for Oscar, the Pug I am caring for that seems to suffer chronic diarrhoea. Has anyone used either of these before? Can anyone give me a run down on the good and bad? Thanks

I have a pdf showing the heimlich manouvre and CPR for dogs if you'd like a copy. PM me your email addy if interested.

Thanks for this info. I am also having troubles with a dog with diarrhoea and this info has come in handy for me.

Rubber glove or vacuum. Glove is easy for day to day stuff.

Thnaks. yes, I am also contemplating getting rid of the chicken. Mine are not fed cooked chicken and they don't normally have any issues so there is a possibility it is one of the things I am currently feeding. I am deleting the pasta and rice first and will wait to see if this alters anything. If not, I will also then stop the chicken and revert back to beef mince as the prime meat source.

Thanks! I'll look into both. I am beginning to think it is the rice/pasta, chicken necks or chicken. The reason why is that I am currently feeding my dogs the same diet (normally they would have mince, either beef or chicken carcus with veges on and off and a handful of kibble) and it appears that the others also have loose stools now, but not to the degree that Oscar does. As of this evenings meal I have thrown the rice/pasta and I am feeding just mince and chicken to Oscar, and mince, chicken and kibble to the others.

How awful for you. RIP Ripley