~Anne~

The Australasian Animal Registry is the only national one in Australia. Much depends on the person who is doing the sanning and checking though but this si the best there is.

*off to google agility* I knew there was another one but I couldn't think of it! Thanks!

Thanks. I might see if I can get someone who is involved with this kind of thing to assess him. He obviously needs a heap of intial training, socialisation and control first though as you say.

I'm thinking flyball might be good for this fellow. He certainly needs something to keep his mind acitve and he is so damn physically active and very fit and agile that perhpas this would suit him? I really don't know a lot about obedience training or flyball though. Does anyone knwo if there are any lists or groups that I could join to speak to people about his potential with this kind of thing. Also, it would be these lists that he would be best advertised on. When the time comes for him to be re-homed, I don't want people wanting to adopt him who are looking for a Pug as this guy is very un-Pug like in so many ways.

Pugs are prone to liver shunts. It is something very worthwhile checking for I believe. I have no personal experience with this but have a friend who has a Pug that was diagnosed at around 12 months with a live shunt. I am happy to put you in contact with them to discuss the pros cons and symptoms if you like. I am sure they would be happy to help you with any info.

This is a good thread for all those people who think pugs are unhealthy and arnt very active coz they carnt breathe properly I must admit though that I have already discussed elsewhere that this dog is the poorest example of a Pug I have seen in a long while. When it comes to the correct conformation of a Pug, he is far from it. He is tall and lanky with the longest legs I have seen on a Pug ever! His legs are so long, he is like a foal that trips over them all the time. :D He has a concave face and the worst stenotic nares I have seen in a while though. One thing he can do though is run and breathe easily. My husband actually took him for a run today to run out some of his energy and he hardly even panted! Make your own assumptions from that

Wow! Thanks for the responses everyone. There seems to be some great advice. Rappie, I assume he was weaned off the Prozac and he definitely is not on it now at any rate. I am not sure it is a true OCD as he has been here since 11am yesterday and I have only once seen him go for his tail and that was when he was playing with me and I was grabbing him around near the tail but he immediately moved to my hands when I moved them away. Cosmolo, he does seem very intelligent too I must admit. He is just over exuberant and not very well socliaised and not trained in anyway. He jumps up at the cupboard when I am preparing food or making a coffee, he springs up and jumps up to my hands if I am holding anything, he jumps all over me and everything in sight and he doesn't rest for long. As I type he is currently sitting for once very quietly at my feet just looking around. I am off to re-read the advice given here and to see how I can implement it. He really is very sweet and I feel just needs some quality time and some training.

I have no experience with clicker training though. Where do I start? I feel most of his behaviour is borne from a lack of human and dog interaction and anxiety more so than just puppy exuberance. He was only 7 weeks old when he left the litter too I have calculated. The tail chewing and obsession (he apparently grwosl and snaps at his tail if he is given a bone... so he perhaps thinks his tail is ahtreat to him??) started due to anxiety it seems and commenced when the previous owners wnet away and left a family member looking after him and he was left by himself for even longer periods of time.

Great help you two are In all seriousness though I need to get him sorted out otherwise he will never be able to be successfully re-homed. Poor little thing is only 9 months old and really only a bub.

I am hoping someone can give me a few simple training techniques to use on a little Pug that has come into my rescue. He is 9 months old, hyperactive, has been on prozac recently (although I feel perhaps this was overkill) for chewing his tail.... he did apparently chew the tip of it off though He is very active and playful, slightly skittish and head strong. He hasn't many manners in the house and table surfs, lounge climbs and climbs up on other furniture. When I walk he grabs my legs with his front paws, tries to attack my shoes and even growsl while he is doing it, jumps up at my bottom and nips me and basically make sit impossible to move without tripping up and hurting him. He will then also try to hump my leg. When I growl loudly at him using the word 'no' and try to push him away with my hands, he quickly and artfully dodges me and then bounds straight back at me. He is as quick as lightening! So far, when he jumps on the lounge or table or furniture surfs, I growl loudly and firmly 'no' and push him back down. This does seem to work for the most part but he has turned once or twice to bite me also. I beleive it is more play biting though or him pushing his boundaries rather than outright aggression. He is more reponsive to me pushing him off furniture than when he is biting my feet. He was surrendered due to his owners finding him a huge handful and he has spent a great deal of time on his own. Does anyone have any tips and clues to pull him into line?

When I feed it, I actually mix this with warm water and make a broth for them to drink at breakfast, they all usually love it. I have never had problems with any of them getting diarrhoea though.

As always, it is best sometimes to have them looked at just in case. We tend to notice the secretion more with smaller dogs as they are the ones who usually sit on our laps and also, smaller dog owners tend to give softer foods to their dogs which can cause the feaces to be too soft and the sacs not to be stimulated adequately....although you feed a good diet and Daisy isn't exactly a 'small' dog going by your sig pic Although popular, regular squeezing of the sacs is actually the wrong thing to do unless they become blocked easily. Squeezing the sacs actually encourages the production of more fluid. Usually a good diet will do all the neccessary workload.

I wouldn't think the cocos palm seed has any relationship to it although I would try to prevent her eating them anyway. Does she have any fluid noticeably around her anus? She may have an infection of the sac (they are not actually glands...not sure why they are now called glands) and will need to go on antibiotics if this is the case. One occurrence would not be alarming and I would consider this normal. Even my cat has had an infected sac once. The sacs may have just expressed themselves naturally though too (not while toileting) and perhpas you have not noticed this before? It usually happens quite regularly and I would think for most dogs, it would occur at least once a day.

Easiest way to fix the problem of hair in the bed (eeeew!) is to not let them sleep in your bed. Train them to sleep beside your bed on their own bed.

There are other effective methods they could use... I'd be more inclined to determine 'why' their dogs keeps getting them also. I clip the hair around the area and use a topical cream such as Neotopic.

I have always felt that it is more do to with the Pug not reading the other dogs as well. I find that Pugs are very open to being attacked or told off by other dogs because they do not acknowledge the body language and behaviour of other dogs.

1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc) I have owned Pugs for over 35 years and have rescued them under the name Pug Rescue Sydney for just over 5 years. 2. Where and why was the breed first developed? It is thought the breed originated in China more than 2000 years ago. In 1885, the first Pug was registered in the US with the American Kennel Club and in the UK the following the year. There were Pugs listed in the Sydney Agricultural Show of 1870. The ANKC wasn't formed until the late 1950s I beleive and so records before this are difficult to determine. 3. How common is it in Australia? In 2008, 1506 Pugs were registered with the ANKC. There has been a steady increase in registrations of Pugs over the last 20 years with the latest figures placing the Pug second in popularity to the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel in the ‘Toy Group’ classification. 4. What is the average lifespan? 13 - 15 years. 5. What is the general temperament/personality? Pugs are very social dogs and extremely people orientated. They are curious and expect to be involved in every thing you do. They can be affectionate and sweet and are overall everyone's 'best buddy'. 6. How much daily exercise is needed for the average adult? Fitness is important to this breed for several reasons and you should expect to give your Pug a minimum of 30 minutes to 1 hour exercise daily to keep them in top shape. 7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with? Absolutely. They are overall easy going little dogs who will provide hours of fun and laughter and lots of cuddles and affection too. 8. Can solo dogs of this breed easily occupy themselves for long periods? Yes, by sleeping. Although I believe all dogs needs companionship, I would not hesitate in re-homing a Pug that is 5 years or older to someone who was not home for long periods. Younger Pugs need more activity and attention and long periods of absence could cause behaviour problems to develop. 9. How much grooming is required? Very little. As stated before though, this breed sheds COPIOUS amounts of hair. If the thought of finding a stray dog hair in your underwear makes you cringe...don't get a Pug. Pug hair tumbleweeds blowing about your floors are common. Regular brushing will help to remove this hair and keep it landing on your clothes ans furniture. 10. Is it too boisterous for very small children or for infirm people (unless the dog is well trained)? Young Pugs can be a little exuberant with very young children but as a Pug ages, they settle somewhat. 11. Are there any common hereditary problems a puppy buyer should be aware of? Hemivertebrae, luxating patellas (slipping knees), eye issues including pigmentary keratitis (brown staining caused by several issues including dry eye) and entropian, stenotic nares (pinched nostrils) and various degrees of brachycpehalic syndrome that affect the respiratory system including elongated palates. The most common issues I see in the Pugs I re-home are pigmentary keratitis, luxating patellas, stenotic nares and brachycephalic syndrome. 12. When buying a puppy, what are the things you should ask of the breeder? (eg what health tests have been done (if applicable) and what is an acceptable result to those tests so the buyer has an idea of what the result should be) Have they had any genetic issues in their lines. An honest breeder will tell you what issues have arisen and what they have done to prevent these issues recurring. A dishonest breeder will tell you that the have never had a recorded health problem to date. If they are passe about genetic issues, then steer clear of them. I recommend potential Pug buyers to contact the Pug Club in their state and ask for the dates and venues of the Pug Club shows so that they can attend a show and speak to more than 1 breeder at one time. This way, they will get a broad and varied view of several lines, breeders and their dogs.

I have trialled an elimination diet on a rescue Pug with great results. You can't give any supplements at all though while they are on the diet. They should only have the novel protein and carb source and water. Nothing else. We fed goats meat and sweet potato.

I once watched a little silky die while myself and a Vet desperately tried to remove a bone lodged in his throat. Awful I have pulled a few chicken necks and wings from Monte's throat and he is one reason why I stopped giving small bones. With his epilepsy meds, his reactions are slwoer and his need to gobble food is greater.... a bad combination. I give all of them a large shank bone once a week to have a good chew on. They all go crazy for them and there is no way they can swallow them whole!

Flea eggs can last several years too, so the ones that have laid eggs down before they are killed will be hatching for some time and re-infesting the dogs. If they are at risk of picking up fleas all the time, Sentinel will not really be effective. Sentinel is best in a controlled environment. I agree with capstar. It can be given with Sentinel and other products also. You cam literally see the fleas dying within minutes of giving the dog a tablet. It is really important to treat the environment as much as possible, and as often as possible, as well as the dogs.

One of my cousins had a Jacky with similar issues. Turns out it was a grass seed embedded somewhere that had originally been inhaled. They were very close to losing him by the time it was found. They live in regional NSW and were referred to the Sydney Uni Vet Hospital and it was the Vets there that diagnosed him. He underwent surgery and has never looked back! Its a shame she wasn't also referred there.

Are you sure you're not me in disguise! Your answer is exactly my thoughts, although I don't think it is bad for them at all. Mine are all washed weekly, in an appropriate dog shampoo (at the moment it is Alloveen) and I have never had an issue with their coats.

There are products you can buy that you sprinkle through the soil of your garden to deter cats. They are usually based on a citronella. They are harmless and your dog won't like it either. The other things to do is scare the living daylights out of the cats whenever you see them within your boundary. Cats usally only need to be scared a few times to be wary of going there again. Run like mad out of your house, screaming and waving your arms at them. Why tie up Council time needlessly on trapping the cats. The owners will have them released and the same thing will keep re-ocurring. If not, the cats will end up needlessly killed because of your actions when there are other more sensible actions to take.

I'd get it checked. Boofy, one of my Pugs, had a small wart like lump come up only recently'on his leg. I had it checked and even though the Vet didnt think it was a Mast Cell Tumour, I asked him to remove it anyway as Boof needed a teeth clean and they could do it at the same time and I would rather have it gone *just* in case. It WAS a Mast Cell. I am so glad I said to remove it anyway.

Ouch 4k! They might do a repayment plan?? Some vets have laons underwritten by AGC or similar?? I can't recall which.