Addicted to Dogs

Mumof3 Food is largely used because it is a very quick and effective way of teaching many many behaviours through use as a lure and is quickly and easily provided as a reward. The idea though is that you very quickly drop the use of food as a lure and also start changing around the reward - how often, for what level of behaviour and what reward is given. Check out http://www.dogstardaily.com/blogs/dog-trai...2-3-4-and-1-2-3 and http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/food-critics for more info. You can also use toys and games - for a few great ideas check out the short videos on America's Dog Trainer TV show on DogStarDaily.com where one trainer shows you how to use fetch and tug in exciting new ways - http://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/tv/part...behavior-savior and http://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/tv/part...behavior-savior Food also has a side benefit that works subconsciously to give a dog feel good about an experience or place like training class or the vets. It's called 'classical conditioning' and yes it can be done by associating other things the dog really really likes with new or adverse places or things - but food is just so much easier and more handy to use. For more info check out http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/classical-conditioning So I guess food is quick and easy to teach things with - and has a few positive spin offs. It just seems to work - but unfortunately many many of us become over reliant on it or cannot seem to go anywhere or get anything from our dogs without food. The food critics article mentioned above can help avoid this. The other thing you might want to think about with your new pup (if you haven't) is that our working dogs were bred for and gettting great reward from the very activity of working itself. It's something that many many pet dogs are missing. Training and a daily walk (if they are lucky) are largely all they get. I recently was at a conference with many dog handlers from a range of agencies and providers whose dogs work for 'a game' or 'food' - but the international speaker pointed out that the dogs don't - for many of them the losing and then finding the track or scent was self rewarding. It's that level that it sounds like you want with your new pup - that the act of being and doing together is reward enough - food, toys, games, your voice, petting (if your dog likes it) can all help get you there. Use the tools that work for you and your dog and let us know how you go.

Oakeydoke1 I'd recommend getting some professional help if moving the food area doesn't work. This type of behaviour can quickly escalate and then spread to guarding other objects....or it might be nothing. But for safetys sake - yours, your dogs and every visitors I'd recommend getting a professional in to help you now. You could start by checking out www.apdt.com.au under the trainers directory. Oh and I'd also recommend not punishing the growl - why not? check out http://www.dogstardaily.com/blogs/obey-thy-dog and http://www.dogstardaily.com/blogs/why-growl-good

KelpieKaye If you're interested in other options for helping your dog with this fear check out http://k9pawsforthought.blogspot.com/2010/...nderstorms.html. I wrote this for another forum. It might give you some ideas or at least leads (no pun intended).

I love dribbly dogs I agree CDC ( http://www.actcdc.org.au/) sounds like it would suit you - and I've also heard good things about the BDC (http://www.bdoc.asn.au/). Depending on what you are after you could also consider the ACT RSPCA and their courses - which are shorter and focused on being a family dog and the skills that go with that not obedience - so no heeling at all for instance. They do run recall clinics to deal with the recall issue amonst distractions etc. The recall clinic is a 5 week program working specifically on getting your dog to come back when called (but again not like in formal obedience but rather at the dog park or if they escape you on a walk or from the yard). The program is based on games and play and costs about $85 dollars. Check out http://www.rspca-act.org.au/pages/page36.asp#recall. Good luck : )

Sandgrubber I'd recommend that you start introducing all the pups to the smell, sound and sight of the problem items (and lots of others if you aren't already) from as soon as you can - just at days or weeks old. Then the items should become less stimulating. Also you can get in and reinforce calm behaviour at that point. I can't see any harm in trying it and seeing if it makes a difference - and if it does just imagine how much happier your pups owners will be : ) For any older pups perhaps put a baby gate up and have the broom in sight. Taking each pup one at at time - get in really really quick with a marker (clicker or noise that has been associated with food) for anything that is an alternative to the behaviours you don't want. So if you don't want attacking, barking or jumping then anything that is not these gets rewarded. Start with just you being able to touch the items (or them seeing them) and then scale up to hold briefly, move slowly and build up. Then work without the gate starting from the beginning of the process - walk towards, then touch, move etc. Do each pup (and/or dog) individually and then try putting them together in pairs, and gradually build up until all pups/dogs can control themselves. A lot of work - but you did say it was getting to you....and with some dogs this structured approach can work in minutes, for others hours, days or weeks (and not continuous training for these periods - just short sessions periodically and never when you are stressed or angry. Let us know how you go.

Bud As has been mentioned you need to be clear about exactly what you want. Is it loose leash walking or a strict obedience heel position? Anyway to get you started on either I would recommend that you check out the following: http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/stay-come-follow - particularly the follow information as this is a great way to start. Make sure you check out the associated video clips on the right of screen. http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/lurer...tion-heel-leash - which takes it to the next step. http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/pulling-leash which talks about solving an existing leash pulling problem but also gives tips for avoiding it - again check out the associated video clips. This should give you some great ideas to get you started. Let us know how you go.

I start the day I bring home the puppy (8 weeks) with all sorts of training as games/play not serious training time. It all just blends together and is such fun they learn to crave those times - so beware when/if you start slacking off on challenging them. For some great home video footage of what breeders and owners have done with pups check out some of the following videos taken from just one site (www.dogstardaily.com): Housetraining you have to see to believe - http://www.dogstardaily.com/video-cck/thic...0/field_video_0 Toller Trick Training at 15 weeks - http://www.dogstardaily.com/video-cck/thic...0/field_video_0 Yorkie Puppy tricks - http://www.dogstardaily.com/video-cck/thic...0/field_video_0 Shar Pei Puppy tricks - http://www.dogstardaily.com/video-cck/thic...0/field_video_0 Irish Setter and Terrier at tricks - http://www.dogstardaily.com/video-cck/thic...0/field_video_0 Keep it light, fun and rewarding and they will give you everything they can

I'd go one step further and urgently suggest that you get both pups into puppy classes - but a different class for each. This way each pup has to learn to cope with the social situation on their own. You may find that the pups have different reactions when away from their sibling - and doing it alone (or more specifically with you) will build their confidence.

I think it's great that you and your pup are getting such fun out of training. Keep up the good work - have a go at a few tricks as well as they're always good fun for both of you. A tip which I learnt by not doing it with my pup is to also spend time teaching your pup to just chill and be there - to settle on a bed and just observe, to sit and watch the world go by when you go for a walk, to the shops or anywhere else. Life is not all about doing doing doing (although that's fun) and being at peace is a skill that takes practice.

You might also like to check out the info at http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/excessive-barking and http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/woofshush. I'd also recommend a walk in the morning or if not a walk some training or use of a puzzle toy/s for feeding breakfast - something that wears the dog out mentally. Let us know how you go. If it continues to be a problem there are other things that might help.

Verdant Amphibian You need to treat Hank as though he was an 8 week old puppy (albeit a big one!) and go back to the basics of housetraining. Check out http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/housesoiling and adjust to meet your situation - for instance the laundry (with anything dangerous taken away) might take the place of a playpen or the kitchen using kiddy gates. Don't just give him open access to the house. He has to earn it. There's more info on the set up and approach at http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/puppy...m-amp-doggy-den and http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/errorless-housetraining. Where's our photo?

Two things immediately jump out at me. 1 is that the pup is toileting in the house all the time - if he isn't housetrained why is having free access? 2 is that they are using punishment which is as mentioned can be harmful as it can teach the pup to toilet when you're not there rather than not toilet in the house. Also if they've been 'punishing' and it's still going on then they've not been using effective punishment - but I'd avoid punishment at all in this situation. They need to: 1. Go back to treating the puppy like it has no idea about housetraining - as it doesn't from the sound of things. 2. Restrict it's access to the house unless under 100% (all eyes on puppy for signs of needing to go) supervision. 3. Take the pup out about every hour or immediately after eating, playing, sleeping or drinking. 4. Make a real party when the pup does it outside - which means that they need to be there with it, have treats with them and immediately the pup goes feed it treat after treat (3 liver treats or similar are commonly used) and use praise etc. If after 5 to 10 mins the pup doesn't go then bring them inside to a confinement area like a crate (if the dog is appropriately introduced to one) and then try again in about 15 mins. Repeat until it's party time. 5. Congratulate themselves and their pup for 'going on cue' like it does now but not rely on that or rest on their laurels. 6. Stop the punishment - use a sharp oy or a clap to interrupt if they catch the pup going inappropriately and quickly get them outside to toilet. Then hit themselves for leaving the pup for too long or in the wrong situation - and not do that again. For more info check out the puppy playroom and doggy den set up at http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/puppy...m-amp-doggy-den and errorless housetraining at http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/errorless-housetraining. Note though that these instructions are for pups living almost totally indoors - so the long term confinement area could be an outdoor area instead. It sounds also like there might be an element of lack of control and even awareness of his urination so it all might take him as a suprise - so let's hope that he grows out of it. Good luck and let us know how they go.

Free access to the house or even larger areas needs to be earned. I'd suggest checking out the errorless housetraining strategy at http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/errorless-housetraining using a puppy playroom and crate as described at http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/puppy...m-amp-doggy-den. The approach was specifically devised for dogs kept indoors during the day in the USA so should suit your situation. A spin off can be getting your pup hooked on chewtoys like the Kong and therefore reducing barking, boredom and chewing issues and even the likelihood of them becoming anxious about being left home alone. This approach uses not just the crate but also a play pen to start with - which you can expand to a small room or part of one (kitchen for instance) with using kiddy gates. Go back a few steps now and get it sorted. Then start expanding the area and the time. Let us know how you go.

STITCH I'd be doing some testing to find treats or games that she finds super motivating or making her work for every piece of her dinner. You should see an improvement in focus after a day or two. As for her not rembering sit - is it possible that you just don't wait for her to sit before giving her what she wants (access to the house, outdoors, a game like fetch or tug) rather than she doesn't know it? It sounds to me like you might have a couple of issues colliding here including a) a dog that is over aroused/stimulated by training and shows this with the vocals b) an adolescent dog for whom the lure/reward training technique isn't as effective as it might have been, c) some stress/confusion associated with her trying to figure out what you want and possibly d) her not being convinced it's worth her time to always follow through even when she does know or have an idea what you want. Of course we actually can't tell what's going on in her mind - but you can try things and see how they go. You could try: 1. Putting a dog coat or tshirt (cut and then sown to fit or tied up at the back - off the spine though) so that it fits something like a Thundershirt (see http://www.thundershirt.com/ for an example). You won't need it for ever but it does help dogs centre themselves and be able to concentrate. 2. Using a modified approach that seems to work for adolescent dogs called all-or-none training to break through to her. See http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/all-o...reward-training for instructions. 3. Try teaching her to jazz up and settle down so that she and you can learn to control her arousal levels. See http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/jazz-and-settle-down for more info. 4. Do shorter training sessions (just a couple of reps, and just a few minutes in total) throughout the day rather than longer sessions. Don't train when you're stressed, anxious or feeling pressured for time etc. You can build training into daily activities including around the house (http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/lifestyle-training), on the walk (http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/training-dog-walk) and in the car (http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/training-car) so that it becomes a part of day to day existance rather than a special high pressure event. 5. Teach her woof and shush so that you have an off swith (http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/woofshush) or ignore all barking (as reacting to it could be reinforcing it). Don't try to do all this at once - and not at class either. Start at home - and then build up. If you're doing classes I'd recommend talking to your trainer about only doing very short stints and then practicing settling between activities. And if all else fails check out clickertraining if you haven't already as this can help clarify what it is you want for the dog. See http://www.clickertraining.com/dogtraining for more info. Good luck.