Fin

I was going to say exactly the same thing. Anyone who has a big problem with these type of devices (OK the older ones apparently are a little harsh) should go and try one on their own neck. I've done this on a typical level on a new collar and you can barely feel it. Compare this to a check chain/prong/any other corrective tool and it's really quite mild (and yes I have strapped a check chain on and tried it too).

I've just had Fido's emu oil shampoo recommended. Tried it yesterday and feels/smells great. Soon to see how his skin etc goes. He's still getting the occasional lump/pimple looking thing though.

Thanks Eddy, thats exactly what I was after. Beau's going really well unless there is distraction around. I think he'd probably do quite well in the ring as the distraction is quite controlled and he is really well behaved in the show ring. Anyway, we'll keep going with these exercises in mind...Thanks.

Is there a resource somewhere that tells me how an obedience routine goes. Is every routine the same, ie heel in a square, turn left, stop and down your dog etc etc. Looking at preparing for Novice and although we're a fair way away yet I would like to start practicing some sort of overall routine.

Set her up to succeed. If keeping her downstairs stops the problem then do that for at least a few months until she is regular and settled again. I also recommend the crate, if for no other reason than her fosters peace of mind. Cleaning out a messy crate is not nearly as bad as scraping the sloppys off your carpet I'm really happy with crating my boy as it means that I can sleep in and know that he'll just hold it...

FORTY SEVEN KILOS !!!!!????? Are you sure? He must be absolutely enormous if this is show weight, and a long way above standard.

My breeders dog is about 27in at the shoulder and weighs in at about 36kg. He's 4 years old, in show condition and is quite a solid build compared to some dogs around at the moment. Perhaps look into a 'special' barf diet. When using BARF you have the option of feeding the same amount of food but increasing the vegies and decreasing the meat to try and manage your dogs weight. Read into it heaps before going this far though. It may just be easier to cut down his food until it starts to make a difference. Also, it sounds like he'll be quite big hows the covering over his ribs, should be able to feel his ribs easily without really seeing them (maybe see the last rib as he turns).

I'm not really all that knowledgeable either but as it appears to be somewhat regular and out of character I'd be thinking about a vet visit anyway, especially an adult dog that has had no previous bladder control issues. As far as stopping it with regards to scent etc, I use white vinegar on my wooden floors but I DON'T KNOW HOW THIS WILL GO ON CARPET (read: please don't hold me responsible for bleached patches of carpet ) If she's crook then she may be less obedient also...just a thought...oh and could be the new meds too, is there an option to go back to the old ones? Edited for crap spelling...

I have found that my dog is completely unresponsive on either a flat or martingale type collar, some people would suggest that at 4 1/2 months he should be on nothing but flat but I have no control with using anything but a check chain (haven't tried prong). Having said that, if the chain slips down from behind his ears the effectivness is nearly as bad as a flat collar so it is a lot more work to ensure that the collar is in the right spot (every time you stop you have to put it back where it is supposed to be). When the collar is in place in the right spot then the correction is so minor that it does less damage (I'd imagine) than pulling on a martingale 10 times as hard. I've actually put the check chain on a sensitive part of my arm and checked it as hard and it's not that bad at all. I don't like having to use it but it makes the difference between a good time and a bad time at training or anywhere where I need to have complete control (if we are just going for a walk in the park then I use a flat collar but if you are at a show and need to have the dog close then a flat doesn't cut it). ...go ahead, fire away.

This is the reason I was hesitant to go to BARF. Even if you read the information that is out there, there is so much mis-information and conflicting advice that you don't really know if your getting it right. I am using BARF and would really appreciated someone experienced validating (or otherwise) what he's being fed. He's a Weimaraner 16 weeks old. OK here goes. Morning Meal 3x chicken wings (about 400-450g) Night meal 120-150g vegies (mainly greens but carrot as well) 200g chicken necks dollup of yoghurt vit c (500mg) 1x kelp tablet 1x teaspoon of brewers yeast 1x glucosamine tablet Every couple of days I add an egg or two to his night meal and about once a fortnight he gets sardines. He also gets mince about once a week added with the vegies. He's quite lean and kept that way deliberately. His breeder is showing him and sees him every few days and she is quite happy but she doesn't feed full BARF diet.

Whats the reason you don't want the pup in the house at night? If it's because your worried about house destruction or toileting in the house then perhaps try borrowing a crate and seeing how he behaves. I won't leave the pup alone in the house either as although I value his sanity and want him to be as comfortable as possible I still don't want the house destroyed. I like him inside at night as well so barking never becomes a problem. I value my neighbours a lot and really don't want to alienate them, so if he's inside then he'll disturb me long before anyone else. As far as being outside during the day, my pup has been outside during the day since day dot and never had a problem. Whined a little bit while we were out but the neighbours came over and said hello and now there's no problems at all. He's 14 wks now and sleeps outside if the weather's hot and has no dramas.

Dr Billinghurst does a rebuttal to this website somewhere. Do an internet seach or a search on this site. The lady that wrote that seems quite articulate at first, but most of her points are invalid or easily addressed by Dr Billinghurst.

It was dog training for Dummies by the Jack and Wendy Volhard (who I think are reasonably well respected ??). Fortunately I only did this about 3 or 4 times before asking...

But I'm not a dog nor a pack animal. I've read a training book that suggests using this method illustrates to the dog who is boss. Basically the theory is that a pack leader has certain rights, one of which is to control movement of each dog within the pack. If you restrict the movement of the pup then you are exercising your right as pack leader over the pup and he gets the idea that you are the boss. ...anyway, I won't be doing this anymore as I felt like it was really harsh and all here have confirmed that is the case. It's not like we're having dominance problems but the book I read suggests this be done regardless...so much for books sometimes (it was probably talking mostly about adult dogs but didn't really specify...).

Thanks for the replies guys... Pewithers...ABUSE...mmmmm a little strong. I'll cut this part out then. He's really quite smart and can sit on command at 9 weeks, hasn't gone in the house in the week that we've had him and sits for his dinner without command. I was worried this might be breaking down some of the good stuff that we've done...

I've recently got our new pup and to ensure that we get the pack structure correct from the word go I'm using a method called the "Long Down". Basically it entails putting the dog in a down stay for 30 minutes every second day and a sit stay for 10 minutes every other day. It's a bit of a struggle as he gets up heaps or moves from the sit to the down stay heaps, or even rolls over and tries to roll away but we always end up getting it complete. Basically at the end of it (and for that matter leash training as well) I feel really slack and almost like he doesn't want to be around me anymore. What ways has everyone used to make sure that puppy knows who's boss? Also feel like I'm rousing on him all the time...it's like they say, you want to be mates with him but it can't be like that...

How true is that... I've been worrying more about what I'm going to feed our pup than about what we feed our daughter. The only thing is that we tend to naturally know what humans need to survive healthily with regards to food and much more research has been done with regards to human vaccines...

If you want your dog to view you as the top dog then try using the long down exercise. It'll allow you to achieve this without the use of emotive voices and body language or physical means such as a light slap. For a better explanation have a look through the page at this link http://www.volhard.com/general/artbywv.htm and look for the article on long down. It's pretty hard to train ourselves out of using physical punishment, it's kind of a natural reaction when the dog has done something wrong. It's what is ingrained into us from a young age...do something wrong and you'll get a slap on the wrist etc. Just think of the future however, the last thing you want is a dog that is fearful and in the worst cases a fear biter.

Thanks for that, most informative. I read Dr Billinghursts reply to the article and it was similar, but it's good to hear this from someone who has some knowledge of these type of things and has thought through it themselves. Have you posted your diet somewhere, I'd love to have a look.

I don't really want to get into a debate about whether BARF is better or not, but I will say that the "what they eat in the wild" line is regularly quoted in most pro-BARF articles, without addressing the fact that dingos and wolves don't live nearly as long as the domestic dog (due to many causes). Having said that, anecdotal evidence quoted by nearly everyone that has used BARF says that their dog is healthier etc. I'm really after ways to minimise the risk of exposure to Salmonella and E-Coli, mainly to my daughter. Andrew

Thanks for the info, it seems that freezing may also "help" kill salmonella but it's not safe enough for humans to rely on. I really would like to feed BARF as all the anecdotal evidence points to significant benefits for the dog (although there is no laboratory or scientific evidence). So really, the answer is in the management of the risk rather than it's eradication. Stop the dog chewing childrens toys and licking the kids. I also noticed that a lot of the anti-BARF articles refute that domestic dogs digestive tracts are close to wolves etc. Has anyone seen any dietary/lifespan etc comparison of the domestic dog to dingos, which I imagine are the closest wild animal to the domestic dog. Andrew

I'm looking to get a dog soon and have been looking at the different options for canine diets. While the BARF diet seems to make sense in terms of the health of the animal, I can't quite get past a few things. 1. Bones causing damage to the dogs internal organs. 2. Salmonella/E-Coli poisoning for the dog. 3. Salmonella/E-Coli poisoning for those in close contact with the dog. The first 2 are possibly a non-issue and I know there are explanations for why they wouldn't cause a problem in a canine, however the last one is what I see as a major issue. How do you ensure that, after eating a meal containing raw chicken, your dog does not come inside and lick you, or chew on a childs toy or lick a childs face etc. I'd like to feed my dog BARF as, from others accounts, it's better for the dogs health and removes smells etc but with the potential salmonella issue I'm not sure. Any ideas... Also, are there any pre-packaged, "safe" dog foods that aren't as bad as the traditional chum type foods?