beagie

Which only indicates you don't have a full understanding of how they work and the methodology that can be used in combination with them. In fact, I've seen and experienced such great results with the good use of the e-collar that I could just as easily be horrified that you are horrified at anyone wanting to use one, Beagie. What is the level of your experience and knowledge of them (and the training method they can be combined with)? To the OP : I agree with the recommendation of obtaining tuition for the good use of these collars - they can often prove far kinder skeletally and muscularly speaking than even the seemingly benign flat collar. But you need to know how. Just as you would for any training tool . I believe you should have no trouble bringing one in to the Country, although there is then the matter of warranty and whether you have the "C Check" tick which is what validates the warranty when you purchase within the Country. I confess I don't fully understand this (even though it's been explained to me more than once) but K9 Pro would be able to tell you. If I needed an E Collar then I would give up the idea of training, why would I want to do that to dogs that I luv who live in my home as part of my family and have not done anything to me to warrant such a correction. But then my dogs are well exercised and have a lot of time put into them in training it is suposed to be fun. I guess it is a quick means to an end for some people, we are all allowed are own opinions on such things. One of my dogs was snake trained before I got him, I bought him because he was suposed to be unmanageable and fighting all the time. I have never never from day one had a problem with this dog, he is the softest and most luvable dog and the best and easiest to train I have ever had. However, if he was bullied he would shut down. i.e. one time when I was training him in directed jumping he would not jump a certain way, so I said okay there is a reason for this, I had people saying make him do it etc. if he were mine I would not allow him away with that. I had him vet checked he had burst an ear drum and had serious problems with his ear, so he could not jump that was as he would have lost his balance. The moral of the story is listen to your dog ask yourself first off why am I having a problem in this or that. My other dog used to run away all the time from his sowners, he is thirteen now I have had him twelve years, every day when I get home from our run which is off lead through bush there he is right beside me. That is all I have to say this is a free country we are all allowed our opinions. My third dog a pup is a work in progress, I am not in any great rush to get there or beat the world, he is a real mint little dog. Beagie

get away from that instructor as fast as you can. Beagles are happy little hounds, by the sounds of things any dog would shut down under those conditions I have an eight month old Beagle he is a delight to train and handle, he is clicker trained. Yes they have a nose on them, yes they like to get it on the ground but bullying a dog like this will not get you anywhere. Billy has alsorts of things he can do. I would start by using a clicker teach the watch command your Beagle can and will think for himself and will eventualy click onto what you want. Training any breed takes time and patience and maybe you need a little more time and patience with a Beagle but believe me it is well worth it in the end. Do things he likes like tuggy with a rope, and motivation. I started Billy off at home at ten weeks, I now go to a club to proof him, and he doesn't always work as well there as I know he can but that is a work in progress I would never allow anyone to treat any of my dogs like that lady say's. There are top obedience Beagles throughout the world so don't listen to the negative comments which I have had plenty of believe me. Billy is a great little retriever, and a mint little heeler, when he starts to go nose on the ground I swing quickly around in front of him and walk backwards using food to lure him as soon as he is concentrating again I move into the heel position. Billy is eight months. If he insists the ground is more interesting then I change and do something else with him, until he is back concentrating again. A four month old pup in any breed finds it hard to concentrate for long intervals I would keep it short especialy heeling. There is a theory to teach your dog to go sniff, however treats are with me so if you want them then best you pay atention. You do not need ridiculous large collars, I have a belt around my waist which I have Billy attached to I never never use my lead as a sterring wheel this is a definite no no. You should be teaching things at home with a clicker tricks all sorts of things leave your heeling to last except for very small amounts at short intervals. Enjoy your little hound they are mint little dogs. I have always had gun dogs this is my first adventure into the hound world and I find him great. You cannot bully these types of dogs believe me I know my GWP would never be bullied and he is a great dog also

In the first place I am horrified that you would want to use an E Collar, secondly as far as I am aware they can be bought quite easily in Australia I thought NSW did not have a ban on them. You can cause yourself a lot of grief and expense by trying to bring in something that is banned here. Beagie

I have been messing around with assistance dog things also, opening the fridge door was easy picking up a bottle of drink still a work in progress you can always remove the handle you are using on the fridge door so it can only be opened when you want it to be, picking up the main telephone if you watch the assistance dogs doing it they have an extra handle on the phone so the dog can pick it up easily, mobile phone and keys I hung a small toy on them for my dog (a beagle) to pick up, as I have always had gun dogs I have trained my Beagle a bit like a gun dog LOL Beagie

That is realy fantastic, I have never worried about not being able to recall my dogs until I became the proud owner of a Beagle, okay I said to myself get in the water, so I took him to the beach off lead, he ran played and swam, with other dogs, everytime I called him with treats of course he came back to me, I am so pleased with my little man although I am only to well aware we have a long way to go, they are smart little dogs, way to go Daisey Beagie him. I know only to well that nose on the ground

I taught this to my dog when doing retrieving, and yes the water dogs i.e. Labs do run straight, HPR's quarter. I have seen some excellent Labs work on whistle only a different toot for each thing, mostly the Eastern States retrieving dogs work with whistle. Going on I used a game, which a few people do by using witches hats, I sent my dog to the first witches hat, he picked up a dumbell, sent him to the next hat he dropped the dumbell in a box sat facing me, I then indicated to him to pick the dumbell up and return to the third witches hat, drop dumbell then return to me standing in the middle, how did I acomplish this by going with the dog in the first place and giving him terms to work with, it was relatively easy to teach in fact I am now teaching it to mu pup who is not a gun dog. Retrieving people use the back command quite a lot, most dogs will go a certain distance when told to, if you want to increase the distance you then need to do it with target work, they mostly always swing around and face you on reaching their target or distance. However I have seen an excellent Lab work with distance commands and not spin around, after all sheep dogs on properties generaly work this way. Is this part of GSD training. Beagie

I have an eight month old pup, when I go out I scatter his biscuits all over the back lawn, not in piles one at a time, so it takes him quite a lot of time to find them, I also leave him with a chew and break up other treats, throw them around the patio etc. He has a sand pit up the back under some trees with things hidden in so he can go find them also, I find it works very well by the time I get home, he is either looking for something he may have missed or is laying down sleeping. He has also had and gets a lot of training and exercise. My old dog is a barker I have never found a cure for him I leave him inside, but I also never taught him to find his food. I tried a citronella collar on my old dog, he was smart enough to drag it around to the top of his head so he did not get sprayed, I also don't like leaving things on the dogs in case of accidents. Beagie

open the red wine Beagie

I am sort of guessing here, however when teaching left and right for Agility, I loaded both hands with treats, walking forward you keep turning into the dog so it ends up on your right then on your left, the distance is increased as the dog gets used to being on your right, that explanation is probably as clear as mud. You will as it gets used to being on the right of course name it. Beagie

I am no expert on this, however I would suggest you are expecting the dog to just know what you want. I would break it down by teaching her to target at a certain distance. start right up close getting her to touch with her front paws a target say a mat or something, then gradualy increase the distance until you have her targeting at the exact correct distance. If she does not work for food then I guess you use a toy or ball or something. Most dogs will work for food it is a matter of what is most tasty and how they have been taught in the first place. Beagie

thank you and good luck with your quest I do hope the dog settles for you, I have never had agressive dogs but then I train a lot and have been doing so for sixty years, I also have all intact males they all get along beautifully, not without a lot of work on my part. Especialy with my new pup LOL no more pups for me to much hard work I am past it. Dogs that are agressive towards other dogs in my local club all wear red bandanas to indicate to the rest of the club give them space. I do not attend this club, the only club I do attend is for a reason it is where most trials are held, and my pup needs to learn to deal with that ground and all the other dogs around him, we have a saying we all have UD dogs in the back yard. I remember when I got my beautiful boy now ten everyone screamed those dogs are killers, he is the biggest sook going, just different handling. I did not mean to confuse you or give incorrect advice, I gues when you have been handling dogs as long as I have and yes I have trained GSD's for other people, they are so smart, you think along the lines that you are dealing with them a big mistake, I also only indicated your breed club as even if the trainers are volunteers, they have been handling GSD's all their lives and have a pretty good understanding of them. oh well never mind all the best in getting your girls settled Beagie

I think a lot of people would be amazed at how much there dogs bark when they are not home, being well and truly retired I am home enough to hear dogs barking constantly, I am sure their owners don't know. I must live in a fairly forgiving neighbour hood, thank heavens. Good luck in your quest like others mostly places like bark busters are designed to scare the crap out of your dog and that is about it. If more than one they can ark one another up and start a pattern, that is very hard to break. Some dogs are just barkers one of mine is, well exercised well trained now thirteen years old. Being now the age he is he mostly sleeps, but he can't play or do anything without barking. When I bought him at age thirteen months he was terrified of his own shadow so to speak, after many hours of hard work he is mostly got over that, I owe it to him to give him a good life and protect him and would do so if necessary. One of my daughters dogs barked when they were at work so I got the job of babysitting her during the day. I hope you are succesful in your quest Beagie

K9: I am sorry but this is bad advice. Number 1, no one is going to read any book and be any where near qualified to deal with aggression from any dog. Number 2, most clubs are staffed by volunteer instructors, not behaviourists and they are not qualified to deal with aggression, nor is what clubs or breeds clubs are designed for. K9: Beagie there is no way you can diagnose what is going on with this dog, at best it is a guess, I would also suggest it is a bad guess. okay in the first place you don't know what I am qualified at, Even volunteer instructors should have some idea of how to handle agression, I was under the impression that is what breed clubs are for, at least they are where I live. End of conversation in person I would be happy to discuss it further Beagie There is safety and welfare of people and dogs at stake in this thread, I would warn you not to give advice your not qualified to give, you could get someone badly hurt.

Mine will chew on their bones for hours side by side I have all males, Ialways leave them with bones when I go out I know then they will happily chew and not bark Beagie

I have recently been reading a book called control unleashed, I think you will find most of your answers there. The next thing I will say if you have a GSD club in reach go to it, they are qualified to deal with the breed. I know you need to mix with other breeds also however your own breed club should have a wealth of knowledge. Your dog is being reactive because it has been allowed to flip the barriers of being on a high, it needs calming down sit down massage the dog talk to it and get it into a calm state before you try to do aything with it. Then commence your training or whatever ten minutes a day can make big improvements. sit quitley in front of you click treat click treat watch for the dog to go into a calm state and relax there is very little point in putting the dog into a down if it is all tense and ready to spring into action at the slightest movement. Training takes time and patience. I have three dogs two older and a pup now seven months old, how the dinamics have changed since bringing in the pup who is a smaller breed, I could not even begin to describe. I have put hours and hours into this pup, not because he is stupid but so I go back to having a nice calm household again. I have just started him at club, I thought he would be a brat, it was amazing how well he behaved he was and coped Walk your dogs seperately if you are not realy able to deal with two at once I walk all three of mine however the two older ones are very well trained, and very well behaved pup is still learning but getting there, I would never walk them together if I could not control them it is arecipe for disaster. You should be setting your dog up for success not failure, when first working with your new dog you need to work with it at home in an enclosed space until you get at least a bit of control. Being afraide of men tells me something but I won't go into it here, you have a protection breed you need to learn to deal with that. Beagie

one of my dogs was in the show ring up to two and a half, he was excellent to train in obedience trotted beautifully(trotting is a must in the show ring not pacing) another thing I found with him he was much better at stays and very calm, think about it a lot of show dogs have to stand in a stacked position for quite a long time as the Judge goes over the dogs, they are also handled a lot so no problems with stand for inspect. Poodles are very intelligent dogs and learn very quickly, different breeds require different handling in training, one size does not fit all Beagie

I think you need to make a choice rabbit or dogs. The reason I am saying this is (there was no fighting) as only one dog however the dog was kept away from the new kitten until the dog got used to the kitten being there, different methods of intro were used, however after about six months the kitten now grown quite a lot got out and went straight to the dog, yes you guessed it dog killed cat before anyone could even move. kids very upset etc. unless the dogs have grown up with a rabbit trouble will happen if not today sometime in the future, someone will leave a door open dogs will get in where the rabbit is. I would never do this to my dogs especialy after the house has been theres for a no of years. Beagie

I am surprised no one has mentioned focus, before I try anything with or without a lead I teach focus, the word I use is watch, you start with food in both hands get the dog to hold eye contact while you put your hands out to the sides behind you etc. the minute the dog looks you in the eye click and treat or use a bridging word like yes, and treat you must be very fast to catch that look as the dog will invariabley be looking at where the treats are, once they understand watch, then when you are walking and you get distractions it is watch and treat for longer and longer distances walked. I have done this with my Beagle pup who is now just six months he has great focus, as he now understands the word watch, he gets treated less as they need to be stopped eventualy, but I do give a big reward for more and more distance, I have three dogs on the lead at once, the other two are old dogs and walk ahead on loose leads as they have always done the Beagle I have beside me, so I can work on him as other dogs or people aproach. It is also a good way of getting that head up if you intend to trial Beagie

Southern River is undoubtedly your best bet, you will be started of at the beginning and progress up the ladder to pre trial then trial. Southern River I believe is also doing Rally at present, they do not train during school holidays, beginner dogs start at seven best get there a little early with all our info and enrol take along immunise certs. Beagie

It is quite normal for them to go through these times, when they start to think for themselves, at four months they are still regarding you as Mom as they get older they will get a little more independant. I have found with my pup at six months he is realy clicking into what he has been taught, however I fully expect lapses up to the age of twelve months at least. Beagie

I have a pup, I just go out with him to do his business eyes closed sound asleep, put him back in his crate climb back into bed I never even woke up I tell myself but then I am an early riser anyway Beagie

But that is not a problem with food but the way it is being used... we can all agree that no matter the tool, it is all about how it is used. I see people who use all kinds of rewards incorrectly but it is the instructors job to show them how to do it properly. There are many benefits in using a dog's food drive if it is done properly. I am positive there are many ways to train dogs that don't involve food, but I don't agree those methods can work just as well for all dogs. You are welcome to try and get the same level of drive and focus out of my dog with praise and corrections alone as I do witht praise and food next time you are in Brissy I never said food is the be all and end all, in fact from the very beginning of this thread I said that food is just one of many rewards you can use, but ruling food out in training completely is ruling out a useful and natural drive for many dogs and I don't understand why a trainer would do so. Not all dogs have the same natural drive for prey items or praise as they do for food. How is a dog supposed to know what is appropriate behaviour if they aren't taught so :D I am not a purely positive trainer but wouldn't tolerate anyone "bopping" my dog on the nose. I certainly would not stand for anyone bopping my dog on the nose either, as for the fact that Beagles would be dead if they wern't food orientated that is silly, I have a Beagle yes he is clicker training and very well, no he does not need to be constantly eating that is for lazy owners who do not do anything with their dogs, dogs are just as happy with a job of work to do, I have heard so many people say silly things about Beagles needing to eat all the time well mine doesn't because he is not being bought up that way, and he most certainly will not end up to be a blob because he is not exercised or is over fed. I do know one thing both he and my Wirehaired pointer will shut down if you start getting to much of a bully, otherwise they are great dogs to handle maybe they do not learn as fast as a GSD BC or working breed but boy what fun when you see the penny drop Beagie

age is not the issue I know of dogs who have their CD at nine months, then they bomb out badly in the higher classes you don't want your dog to be bored out of it's brain by the time it is twelve months old. Stays are very important, is he or she used to staying in a line up of dogs. It is easy to be on the side line and say my dog can do that a lot better, it is a different story when you are in there. If you feel your dog is ready in every aspect and not just front finishes then go for it. I am currently working with a pup with great focus but I will not start him until he is two. Pup's are pups you can't put an old head on young shoulders. But I can't see your dog or know you so it is just guess work. Beagie