Tentapride

IMO the Oz trails work just fine as long as you make sure the top is put on correctly. I would not recommend the Oz Trail that has the high centre pole as these ones do collect water but the Oz Trails with just the 4 poles connected to the Apex are fine. I have been through some horendous storms with my 2 compacts and never had a water pooling issue as long as the tops are put on correctly.

If you are interested Warners Bay (on the way from grounds to teralba) has quiet a few nice spots for a meal. You can even do take out and walk across the road to sit on the foreshore of Lake Macquarie

Definately 12 noon thursday before the show.

Thanks Roova - I did google it but came up with nothing. I might try DogsQLD today. The show organisers are a small breed club and its their local Champ show so I don't think they use the accommodation and last time I asked they had no idea.

Does this mean that there is no accommodation near the Durack grounds in QLD?

There is a caravan park at Teralba that takes dogs. Its only 10 mins from the grounds.

Can anyone recommend dog friendly accommodation near the Durack grounds or have they reintroduced camping? Would prefer a cabin but Motel would be suitable as it will only be for 2 nights.

As others have said I have previously used frozen bottles of water or ice packs (wrapped in a towel) around the edges of the whelping box. But if Im not around I also worried that you pups would get a chill & I didn't like using that until pups were about 2 weeks old. Now I use the cool champions cool mats. Worth every cent, no risk and work brilliantly and Im happy to leave with mum & pups unsupervised. My pups are now 3 days old and thankfully I now have aircon but they still got a bit hot yesterday so I removed all excess bedding as mum was getting hot but bubs were fine overnight without the aircon. Whelping box is lined with marine carpet laid over newspaper so they aren't just on a bare floor. I should add that although I use aircon pups are in a cave like wheping set up so no chance of aircon or fan giving the pups a chill.

But that doesn't take into account the levies collected at each show. It does because the levy is per dog and the entry numbers for the show are published. I agree but that information should be accessible by someone that is involved with DogsNSW. Im not about to put in that kind of effort unless someone at a high level is prepared to take this on with me. Otherwise it would be a complete waste of time.

Nah Im a nobody in the dog world but to me its just the most obvious and equitable solution. I could write to DogsNSW but I doubt anyone would pay any attention to it. There are just too many self interested parties for any reasonable suggestion to be even considered. Maybe I'll write to Tom but really the only way anything would be done is if all the regional groups got together with a co-ordinated effort. It would take an awful lot of signatures to even make them discuss it but I think that they get too much easy cash this way and they wont give that up without a fight. But its about time the regions started standing up for themselves. What I need is somebody with some clout to work the idea out with so a proposal can be put to the various regions to gain their support so a proposal can be put together for the next agm. Anyone out there who is a somebody that would like to take this on with me????? First step needs to be to work out if the idea is economically viable but the only way to figure that out is to know the $$$ collected in each region and there's no way I could evn come close to getting that kind of information. Like I said I am a nobody.

My response is no regional exhibitors should not be required to financially support an unowned facility such as erskine park in full. A far more equitable distribution of funds would be for DogsNSW to set up a series of trust accounts for each major district. The levy should still apply but the levy for each area should be allocated to the relevant trust account for the appropriate area. DogsNSW could retain say 10-20% of each levy for it management & audit of each of the trusts. From these trust accounts it would then be up to the management committee for each regional area to apply for release of trust monies for their area to improve the facilities in the regional areas. In this way DogsNSW still control and monitor how the funds are spent (to avoid misappropriation) but regional areas gain the benefit of funds collected from within their own area's. Each trust fund would be included in the annual audit of DogsNSW and annual reporting to all members of all monies collected and how it has been distributed and spent. Regional areas will need to provide accountability for the released funds expediture. I know that DogsNSW has distributed funds on an adhoc basis from time to time to regional areas but really is it fair???? We don't pay for toll roads we don't use but those using toll roads do pay. A change to a user pays system is the only fair way. By doing this we would also continue to encourage more involvement in regional shows and may just revitalise the dog show scene throughout the state. Just knowing that access to improvement funds is available will have a positive effect on the management committees in regional areas and more people will likely enter more dogs in regional shows knowing that they are supporting that region.

That would have to be the most inspiring thing I have ever seen. What an amazing handler & exceptional dog. Well done to the powers that be who saw past this childs disability and allowed her to take part.

Baterial skin infection - sounds very similar to what I see from time to time. We call it puppy pox LOL - it usually rectifies itself within a week or two. Pimples will go scabby in a few days and it just works it way out without causing discomfort to the pups

No my dog did not vocalise in any way what so ever. I fully understand the concept of prey instinct and drive. It was purely an unprovoked attack. The dog continued on in the class after the incident. I intend on making a written complaint to the club and making a formal request that this dog is appropriately muzzled and not allowed off lead at any time. I believe the owner had dropped the lead as the class was in a 1 minute sit /down stay at the time. I would also suggest that you encourage the owner to see a behavoiurist or get the club to encourage the owner to see a behaviourist, as unprovoked attacks on other dogs are not acceptable. I hope your dog is ok and recovers quickly both physically and physcologically. Thankyou the physical damage will heel quickly its the phschological damage that is of most concern. He still hasn't lifted his tail from between his legs. Poor baby is just scared witless and wary of everything even my other dogs but he is starting to relax a little around them. I only have the young guys out with him not the more boistrous of my bunch just yet.

No my dog did not vocalise in any way what so ever. I fully understand the concept of prey instinct and drive. It was purely an unprovoked attack. The dog continued on in the class after the incident. I intend on making a written complaint to the club and making a formal request that this dog is appropriately muzzled and not allowed off lead at any time. I believe the owner had dropped the lead as the class was in a 1 minute sit /down stay at the time.

I have an 8mo shy pup who I have been working with at home and out and about to improve his confidence levels and trust around other dogs. So I determine he is finally ready to start at a club. I enroll talk to the instructors to let them know that I need to stay on the outside of a class as my boy in nervous. I've trained and trialled before so I was asked to start my boy in the 3rd level class. I thought great more stable dogs and they recognised I knew what I was doing and would not push my dog past what he could do. I also requested an identifier that the club uses to indicate to others that my dog was not to be crowded (it was not to indicate that my dog or any dog was agreesive) I thought great my dog can integrate into a class over a period of time at a level he was comfortable with. Then the worst happens a couple of dogs from a higher level class break free and run through my class. I was at my dogs side to reasure him and as he started to freak I picked him up for safety sake as the situation was deteriorating rapidly. only to have him set on by another dog in the class. I now have my previously shy boy absolutely terrified of other dogs and the obedience situation. He has a nice hole in his side, that is being treated, but its the phycological damage that is the worst. Things could have been so much worse if I hadn't recognised the dangerous situation and took preventative measures as quickly as I did. My boy was in my arms when the other dog lunged and I barely escaped myself from having my arm bitten but luckily I was twisting away at the time of the attack. What was worse is when I accused the dog of attacking the owner had the hide to say I misread his dog and he has never hurt another dog. When I showed him the hole in my dog he quickly back peddled and will be paying for vet treatment. Now I need to decide whether to lodge an agressive dog report with the relevent council. I know other actions probably led to the attack but there was no cause to lash out at my dog who was in my arms and showing no signs of anything other than fear. The breed involved is one that has a bad rep but even if it had been a chi I would still be contemplating the same thing. If this dog had got a hold I am afraid my beautiful boy would be in very serious trouble.

You may be moving too fast for her. Start by getting her to understand that she needs to hold her position first for longer than a few seconds. I have an 8mo as well and I am teaching him to hold positions and to wait. I am doing this by withholding the reward until he has held a position for 5 seconds approx and then I will increase this time. I am teaching 'wait' with his dinner. He is highly food motivated so its not so easy for him to look at his dinner and not eat it instantly. I do this by putting him in a sit position and I hold his collar then put the food down about a foot away. I tell him to wait and correct his sit position if he breaks until he has held it for a few seconds. From this I plan to be able to decrease my involvement in holding him and then increase the time he must hold his position before he gets dinner. Once he understands what 'wait' means Iwill then start moving slightly and returning so that he learns to stay. But first things first he needs to learn what 'wait' or 'stay' means.

Have a read through the prevention of cruelty to animals act. I think you will find that the use of Prong and all electronic collars is deemed illegal under the act. Its an interesting read actually because by definition any collar with a battery inserted would be deemed electronic by normal definition thereby making the use of barking collars illegal as well. Can't wait for that to be tested in court. You will also find that their use is against ANKC regulations and a review of their website should locate it.

Maybe face judging is here and maybe it isn't but I have seen dogs being awarded groups and in show awards when they are obviously lame. I have seen dogs strung up in the ring so that their front feet never touch the ground winning groups and BIS. How is that fair judging? I have also overhead people discussing the going rates for BIG and BIS awards. Perhaps I misunderstood what was being discussed? I have heard judges rant and rave that they will never award an exhibit owned by the judge that just denied them a challenge or a group award. From my point of view there is a component to showing dogs that is not fair or unbiased but I still choose to show because I don't care if I win or lose. I enjoy the company of my dear friends and I love my dogs and when it comes down to it that is all that matters.

If you are anywhere within 150k's of the east coast of NSW then you are in a paralysis tick area. Symptoms scream tick to me. They can be found almost anywhere on your dog or may have already dropped off. Don't wait and see how the dog is a vet is probably the best option. If you are not in a tick area get your dog in the bath with cold water around its feet and keep its belly wet. If no significant improvement then don't muck around as heat stroke can be fatal as well.

Do you have a trusted friend or family member that can take her for a few days. I did this when a friends dog lost a litter delivered naturally and although she mourned for a day or so she soon got back to normal and when she returned home a few days later she was no longer stressed and looking for her puppies

If mum is settled and doing well then I would move them out into another room now wih a pen around them. Its sounds like mum is quiet comfortable with them and feels confident and secure if she is happy to sleep under the bed away from them. If pups are settled there's no need for her to be with them constantly but I would keep her penned with them until 3 weeks. At teh 3 week mark I alsways allow mum easy access into and out of the pen so they can come & go as she pleases. When I started breeding I always had them in my room but now I realise that if the signs are good and mum is settled there is no need to be with them constantly (I have a small breed with little to no threat of squashed puppies)

Try removing most of the bedding from the box, maybe just use some marine carpet when it is hot - My pups are just 2 weeks old and that is what I am doing. I put a little bedding back in overnight for when the temp drops. You will know when additional bedding is required when the pups start bunching back up. What you want is a nice loose pile of puppies that are quiet & settled. Also the ice brick wrapped in a towel is a good idea. A fan blowing across the top of the box, not directly onto the pups is also good. Another and safer option for the pups is to use one of those Silver Eagle cool mats. They are brilliant, they help to keep mum and pups cool. Pups can move off it easily and there is no chance the pups would get a chill. In the first week I too had my a/c on 24/7 but I've stopped relying on it and use all of these options with success. At 2 weeks of age my pups are doing very well and I've managed to keep mum & pups cool, happy and comfortable.

A friendly dog (large or small) is more than capable of agression given the right circumstances. If you do not have effective control of your dog you should under no circumstance allow it to be offlead, offlead park or not! I absolutely detest other so called friendly dogs running up to mine and will react as the lady in the park did. Face facts your dog was acting agressively towards another dog. How many dogs do you think are attaked by so called friendly dogs, with their owners left shaking their heads saying he has never bitten anyone before??? Every single dog has the potential to bite and will bite if the right circumstances occur, as an owner of a dog it is your responsibility to ensure you do not allow those circumstances to arise. So please do not allow your dog to approach another dog until you have gotton the other dog owners permission. One of these days your dog will rush at the wrong dog and it will be you blaming the other dog for something your dog started.

my girl had a c-section on thursday night. She is on mainly fluids still as that is what she wants. Puppy milk with a raw egg & water mixed through usually goes down a treat. She has also had scrambled eggs and canned puppy (yuk!) Basically all they want in those first few days is food they can lap or basically inhale. Very important what ever you feed for next few days has a high water/fluid content. In a week or so she might want to try something that takes a little more effort to eat. But my kids don't want to touch dry until the pups are around 4-5 weeks old.