MonElite

No, there is one this Sunday.

From what I understand - no its not. Also rather than the third phase being called protection its actually called C work - C stands for Character assesment.

they are waterproof (well some models are) and the stim runs between two probes, regrdless if its on dry land or in water - as it travels between probes along dogs skin

Even old dogs can learn new tricks, well done Kavik and Zoe.

How much do you want for them? I might have a buyer for you (an experienced trainer)

Apparently having a tick tac in your mouth helps you settle the nerves and masks the smell to the dog. It potentially is an urban myth, but no harm in it.

Im a new trialist. I have entered my dog in quite a few trials and failed each and every time. My dog was trained to pass and at training (on different grounds) would do what was required. It was me that failed the dog each and every time as I was just so nervous. I have no idea why I was nervous! So I dropped the level (from CD to CCD) and went to a trail not expecting a pass but expecting to behave in the ring like a human being rather than a nervous wreck. If I had another dog I would have taken it in as the trials were purely for me. At a recent trial there was a nice steward and I was freaking out before I went in the ring and she told me to just enjoy myslef, that Im there becosue I love dog training and no matter what happens it will be all fun. I failed that day but my dog worked a lot better and a lot closer to what she normally does at training. Next trial to my surprise the steward from the trial before was my judge. I was at ease immiediatelly and she remembered me from the week before. We passed and got a relatively good score. So my advice would be - if you are nervous go to trials to get over the nerves. Get members of your club to put you through a mock trial (people you dont normally train with) get them to have a board and a pen and mark you as a judge would. Have a starting peg and have few people watching you being judged.

Im one of the other showies and gotta agree with Staff'n'Toller you can teach a sit and have a show dog. hey I own one. And I dissagree with what you said. But I also taught a stand command. And my dog does a stand from a sit and from a drop. Never ever that I had a problem in the show ring with my dog sitting. when I finish runing and come to a halt I say stand and she never ever sits. She never ever sits on a free stack either. What you are reffering to is a dog offering random behaviours that earn it a treat. Well I dont give treats for random behaviours but only after a comand is exacuted. In fact if my dog offers a behaviour that I didnt ask for I turn around and ignore her. You want the dog to stand you tell it to stand and than give it a treat, to me what you wrote indicates that your dog doesnt know the STAND comand, and the previous one you showed didnt know it either.

A friend of mine - old style trainer teaches a retrieve by a forced method and if the dog is fast learner it takes couple of hours all up. The dog retrieveing looking happy etc in about 3 days.

First question - less than a week This was her 4rth lesson on the 16th June http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=ZpWqq0ji6KQ Second question - between a week and a month And this was done on the 22nd June http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=40Te1KVIgm8 Dobermann puppy Clicker 99.9% pure positive. Held the muzzle to obtain extended time of a hold Not formally, previous dog would fetch and run away with a toy. After adding the ecollar for a recall he would come with the toy. It was a retrieve in prey drive and I would reward with another prey retrieve. Never taught him to do a formal dumbell retrieve, never had the need. Dog was not really a natural retriever.

Dogdude - I would certainly eliminate your point nr 1!!! But my dog learns very fast and she is more or less a natural retriever. Plus she likes to carry stuff in her mouth, pretty much anything is good to be carried around. I knew about the clicker method and attended a workshop with a German schutzhund clicker trainer and she covered how she teaches the retrieve. I met her about 3 weeks after the workshop and told her that after the workshop I taught my dog to retrive and by then she could also retrieve over a jump. I had to do a demo (on the flat) and the trainer was very impressed. I guess I paid attention and it paid off Having said that I havent proofed the excercise as yet, got busy doing something else. Gotta go back and do more retrieves I think, thank you for reminding me.

Just wondering why do you say "months" of frustration?? I taught my dog the positive clicker method and it took me about a week from start to finish, that is with the stay during the throw to the come back with the sit at the front. I might have done 3-4 little sessions a day on weekends and 2 a day during the week. I did hit a brick wall as she wasnt holding for long enough, yes got frustrated for about a day or so as I could see no improvement, but decided to hold her muzzle to help her understand that untill I click she is not to open her mouth.

I can finally add to this thread Divani got her first pass in CCD 87 points heel on lead 22 stand for exam 10 (for those that remember I had problems with her being touched by strangers) recall 15 (she decided that the auto sit after the heel off is to be done about 15 seconds after we stop) sit stay 20 drop stay 20 I might add that it was raining qute heavily, and we had a dog have a go at her when we were entering the ring. For more details you can read my small brag story in the Dobermann thread.

My friend - ollie1 - makes beautifull plaited leads too. My show lead is from her. I also have few little 1/2 ft ones from her too.

My club accepts titre test results. And I belive there are several that do. If they dont, why dont you ask them why? and suggest that they start.

I might go on Sunday.

Squeak - in this video I was just starting teaching her drop on the move http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=YLXCMz347rk first one at about min 2:30

Divani can do this too, and I tought this more or less like Kavik said. At first I would ask for a desired position when I was just moving near the dog, such as bending down, or turning my back etc, so the dog got used to doing a command not always from the heel position. Than gone to the slight step forward while heeling. I gave an exadurated hand signal at first and than made it less and less obvious till now there is no hand signal. The other method is that you walk, give a command and than suddenly turn in front of your dog blocking it from going further. Also you can use a long line and a helper to stop the dog from moving forward. And of course you can use an ecollar for teaching this.

no it wasnt like a quiver, not like the muscle overdoing. it was less than the phone vibrating although a simmilar speed, the closest I can compare it to is when you have a electrical transmitor on and it is sort of buzzing. I am thinking it might be the adrenaline overload as she was going absolutly nuts, or maybe it was the teeth on the ball. it was orbee so maybe it was friction betweeen the teeth and the rubber when she had her mouth extremly tightly closed, teeth jabbed into rubber. Who knows... I will try to test this again, perhaps with a different type of a toy.

Just an idea ruthless. why dont you get a normal tug and insert a squeeker into it. Or get the hessian fabric and make a tug yourself out of that with the squeeker inside.

I did, just not in here LOL I think you watched way too much Cesar and he does everything in calm submissive state, where now you want the oposite and Chopper is totally confused. With you. With someone else he doesnt have the problem as the other person didnt tell him to be calm submissive , quite the opposite - be crazy and drivey! and you will get praised and rewarded for that.

LL - its invisible, you would have to touch it to feel it. If you look at her she is holding strong and thats about it.

I agree with an additional point to make. All of the above is very correct if you are doing TID for obedience, agility, flyball etc. But if you are doing tugging in order to move onto bite work, you cant just work with the squeeky fluffy toy or a ball, as the dog will eventually have to go for a bite pillow or a sleave. My girl is a prime example, happy to tug on fluffies, not happy to tug on bite pillows. I guess this is not enough drive genetically, or nerves arent strong enough or combo. Hey ruthless - lets design a fluffy sqeeky sleave, we will make money on that for sure

no, I just cant be bothered :rolleyes: :D My dogs are pets not competition dogs and Im too soft and let them get away with way too much. Than I get frustrated that they dont perform Plus if I decide to deprive, others in my household think its worng and than provide extra

Privide him with nothing to demolish. maybe give him a big bone to occpy him, and than nothing else. Yes I mean no bedding too. BTW - this is advice I can give but I cant really do myself, if you are wandering :rolleyes: