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Akitaowner

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Everything posted by Akitaowner

  1. Ok all those already registered an interested should have received a PM if you havent please contact me
  2. sounds perfectly normal to me when anyone learns to communicate efficiently with their dog the relationship changes this is what i base my training on - its all about the handler - the dog is a much smaller side of the equation....
  3. sounds like it will be a minibus from the CC!! seriously we can all car pool which would cut fuel costs! - just need to make sure we have room for the pooches!
  4. Just wondering if there is anyone on here who would be interested in a drive training workshop - probably a 1 day sometime in the next couple of months. If your interested - first in best dressed, let me know - places will be limited i can confirm date and costs soon CONFIRMED Your invited to attend: Training in Drive Workshop 28th June 2008 At K9 Force training Facility at Kurrajong Heights NSW (west of Sydney) 0900hrs - 1700hrs with a 1 hr lunch break Bring your dog! This workshop covers pretty much everything that is covered by his distance learning package which costs $400 This 1 day workshop costs $90!!! There are 15 spots up for grabs ***15 DEPOSITS TAKEN/RECEIVED*** Ruthless (PIF) Reddog21 (PIF) Dwynwyn (PIF) AO (PIF) Dogs4fun (PIF) wobbly whyteridge Mrsdog kamuzz Luvinshep (PIF) winterpaws (PIF) Luke dixon 1 (PIF) Luke dixon 2 (PIF) +1 non DOLer (yes they do exist!) (PIF) +1 non DOLer (PIF) +1 non DOLer (PIF) Jakesmum labRADor (PIF) OK so looks like we have our final 18 (with a few who have paid I'm awaiting receipt in my account) - apologies to all those who may have missed out this time, i'm hoping to have another session later in the year and will keep people informed I would like to have a couple of back up people in case for any reason those already coming have to pull out etc so anyone who is not on the list who might be interested in being a reserve please contact me. Thx B
  5. yep i would have to agree with Erny; Depending on how generous i was feeling i might grace them with an informed response, these would be my comments: The ownership of such a collar is not illegal in any Australian state. This is not an appropriate forum for a debate about the uses of various training tools. If used in the manner intended this tool will never hurt or harm any animal. This item is 100% legal to sell in all but 1 state of Australia. This tool is neither cruel or danagerous when used correctly.
  6. can anyone tell me how much the NDTF distance course is - ive got all the paperwork at home but it was so lng since i received it ive completely forgotten and someone asked me! just a ball park - i remember i was quite expensive - i want to get myself and someone else i train with hopefully into the course at the end of the year.... ok dont worry i found it in the other thread....
  7. sorry i just typed it in - it wasnt a link! no i used to live in more central sydney and went to st ives, mosman and another couple of clubs and it was a push getting them to let me use a check chain! now im much more confident so when i first rocked up at this club i said i knew how to use it and was going to! instructor watched me thru the class and was more than happy to let me continue using a tool i was obviously happy with and competant at using! My suggestion to anyone that wants to attend an obedience club with one is to offer a demonstration (head instructor etc) of how they work and why you use one. Some trainers are very set in their ways and would not consider them but some might be more open to their use. also a lot of obedience trainer only ever train labradors or retrievers and have no idea how to train 'other' breeds which may be more stubborn or wont work for food... now im an instructor with the club i am able to openly suggest them to others sorry 4 paws as i said i dont know of anyone else that lets them in... the pioneers website isnt very up to date but we meet at killarney vale, central coast monday evenings 6.30pm there is no mention of them on the website yet however i feel i might write a short note about them to try to educate people about their use, and that despite preconceived ideas they are a great training tool and should be more openly available for people having specific problems. i would never let anyone buy/have one that i wasnt confident was capable of using it correctly.
  8. i think we are the the only club in sydney (that i know of) that will allow the use and positvely advocate the prong/pinch collar being one of the instructors i am able to suggest them to people who may benefit from one, ensure its correct use and educate everyone else in the class about what a great training tool they are. we had 4 dogs (2 of mine) in them last week :D www.pioneersdogtraining.org.au
  9. thats exactly what Rom has said in her initial post - every change in behaviour has to begin with a punishment (aversive)... i agree! all these people who say they only ever use positive rewards either have a stupid dog that doesnt have a very high drive or they do (maybe subconsciously) use aversives! i think ob trainers which claim to be 'all positive' are a waste of time and they (the individual trainer) rarely get success 100% of the time with any given problem.
  10. yep so by removing the potential to intrinsically (self) reward (get the food off the kitchen bench by not leaving it there) you are exerting pressure to do something different (dog will still seek same reward) at which point you can reward a different behaviour offered
  11. just on a side note can you define: positive punish and negative punish are they different? - are they not both decrease in comfort level = punish?
  12. I don't believe so in this case Yesterday I was getting 3 mth greyhounds to chase a bit of sheepskin for the first time. When I put the skin on the ground they weren't to fussed, they just wanted pats, put a bit of movement into it and that was a whole new ballgame. I believe the motivator that changed their behaviour was an instinct, not a punisher. I can't think of why the movement/start of the chase game would be a punisher, the punisher would be not being able to catch it and that would stop them from bothering to try to get skins moved around by me. There really isn't too much chance of that I'm too slow cheers M-J this is a new behaviour not a change....? this is the same basis of anything the dog will do when alone - for exampel not many people teach their dogs to counter surf but the dog does it! to stop the dog you have to punish (JMO - i dont like the phrase 'negatively punish' - that infers a double negative - i prefer 'actively punish' or 'actively reward') this is a good thread :D - i strongly believe the fastest and most efficient way to a modified behaviour is to increase the pressure of 'discomfort' and then reward the desired. once you increase the pressure of discomfort the dog will automatically offer something new/different. i cant think of anything that would change without pressure initially - if the dog is counter surfing then they are intrinsically rewarding themselves...same bottom line
  13. i feed mine the same Breed and age: Akitas, 3.5years and 18 months Product name, size and cost: Advance Growth large breed puppy 20kg $95 Daily amount fed: 1 cups each/per day How long does the bag last: roughly 4 weeks Average cost of feeding/week: $18 each Anything to add: mainly barf fed - the kibble is just for brekkie fed with tinned fish.
  14. yep swimming int he ocean knocks any potential hot spots on the head for my 2
  15. confine him - the longer this is allowed to contiue the more of a habit is formed and this will continue indefinately. break the cycle and once the dog is mature it will cease. At about 6 months old our Rogue chewed a hole in the middle of the wall one morning while OH was in bed! she has been crated at night and confined during the day when were out - shes just turned 18 months and is now 99.9% trust worth anywhere in the house with everything available to her.
  16. maybe create a 'dry' section of grass - under a bit of cover as an acceptable compromise!
  17. is it too late? i hope not - i forgot all about it and i hate letting people down... I have 2 large breed dogs - Akitas, both very happy and friendly however being large they have tended to pull a little on the leads not so much i couldnt control them but with my boy - whos an entire male stud he wanted to stop at every tree and would always walk with a tight lead just pulling enough for it to be annoying - but not too annoying as i put up with it for about 18 months! After consultation with a behaviouralist, i was advised to try one. he showed me how they work and why they are so effective. It not about hurting the dog or being more powerful its simply a tool that enables the dog to know when it is doing something wrong. The majority of training relies on the handler having precision timing for corrections or rewards, however the design of the prong mean the handler does very little and dog will correct itself - the handler really only needs to reward and praise when thing are going well!! Dog training is a good balance between rewarding good/desirable behaviour and making the bad/undesirable behaviour less comfortable - which the prong is perfect for. Used in the correct way it will never hurt a dog but just make them feel uncomfortable when they are doing something wrong. So what happened after my consultation.... i now have a dog that will walk beautifully on a loose leash he will still stop to pee but he knows that he only has the length of the leash before he has to start moving again. He very rarely gets corrected now. I have also used it to train out a couple of other unwanted behaviours. It gives me more confidence in handling a big dog wihtout having to 'overpower' him - coz im fairly sure he would win that battle!!! My girl was about 4 months old when i got the prong for my boy, but i thought it would be great to prevent her from developing the same bad habits he has so she was trained with it and has never pulled on the lead since. I have seen these tools used with by professional trainers and personally would not use anything else now. Regards
  18. why not try renting a bark collar and leaving it on - that way you dont have to be there for the stim... it would only take a few days of her wearing it for her to stop. i agree with Tony i dont think this has anything to do with the other dog - its your dog barking at another.... there is a house near me with 2 swf that go berzerk everytime someone walks by - doesnt mean im not going to walk past that house....and i have actually used it to get my 'scared of the world' foster comfortable with that kind of environment - i dont stop outside by i still walk past everyday with 1 dog or another...
  19. i bought the golf one about 18 months ago and its been great i also bought an extra set of rechargable batts (i swap them with my digi camera ones) so now we *almost* always have manicured nails at our place :D Rogue loves it
  20. some just dont like the taste - i have to be very careful with the amounts (i usually just use splash) for my boy as any more and he wont eat - OUr girl has no trouble tho and will eat almost anything. he will eat anything if he is hungary enough - i dont really see the additives as vital and tend to only put them in every few days...
  21. Akitaowner

    Cleo

    OMG - nothing i can say will help the pain..... run free and at peace
  22. actually i would if i could lots of people think it cruel of me to have double coated akitas in the 'hot australian sun' im in sydney but know of a few in darwin! as said above a natural coat insulates from the hot and cold my 2 are fine but do love to play in the paddling pool all summer
  23. its simple - until your OH sorts his act out the dog will suffer. i feed my 2 bones in the evening and kibble in the morning (for speed and balance) they rarely get any extras - i bought a bag of biscuits (bone marrow looking ones from smackos) about 6 months ago that we are still using them. they probably get a couple a week. they get 2 carcasses in the evening and 0.5-1cup kibble in the morning - they are around 45-50kgs each but not very high energy. If they are looking fat i cut down for a week or two on their dry and red bone if they are looking too lean i pick it up again - makes things very easy! most dogs i know (not my boy tho!) are always 'looking' for food, if its around they will beg etc. i keep them a little fatter in winter coz they are outside most of the time. As other have said before scraps dont have the same nutritional value as a meal so you shouldnt be cutting kibble for the scraps....
  24. Hi I think you mean 'Royal Jelly'? which comes from bees. Its quite expensive but very good (reputably) for getting coat condition. I used it for a while to try to boost my boys coat whilst i was showing - personally i could tell any difference but he didnt actually have any complaints like dry or irritated skin? so i would imagine it would help in that respect. Good luck!
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