Mrs Rusty Bucket

AWDRI Have just posted on their facebook - kelpie girl looking for new home (or foster). http://www.facebook.com/#!/photo.php?fbid=10151041431147133&set=a.339435487132.157133.304425302132&type=1&theater http://www.facebook.com/#!/awdri.com.au

It's a great pic. It seems to tell a story, and inspire thinking about what happened to the people who lived there once - how things have changed. And I love the sky and cloud patterns and light and shade and highlights in it too. I always find it fascinating - how one decides what a great picture is - or great art or a great book. And when you see it - it's obvious. But try explaining why - and I mostly fail.

Hi all Couldn't post in the old meet up thread (ouch) So starting a new one. Post in this thread links to any new threads you might want to set up for any events or you can post in this one. These are the current things I know about. These are all dog on lead (except for the actual lure chase run) so we should be able to make it work. Henley Beach Dog Day out Oct 7th http://www.dolforums.com.au/topic/241776-sa-oct-7th-2012-dog-day-at-the-beach-henley-square/page__gopid__5965480#entry5965480 Bark in Rymill Park Oct 20th http://www.dolforums.com.au/topic/241777-sa-purina-bark-in-park-sat-20th-oct-2012/page__pid__5965453#entry5965453 Lure coursing if we ever get organised - tho it's more a winter thing. http://www.dolforums.com.au/topic/226484-lure-coursing-in-adelaide-for-non-greyhounds/ (read from beginning until you get the locations and skip to the end for updates).

Cool I should probably link these from the adelaide meet up thread... since that would get it up in the "my content" list for more people.

My dog is always hacking up kibble she didn't eat properly the first time. Sometimes I rub her neck, I think this helps. I once saved a horse who decided to inhale a piece of apple (he was very greedy). He lay down to die, I made him get up, and rubbed along the bottom of his neck (wind pipe) got the apple loose and all was good. We got the horse dentist in for him tho - cos the whole thing scared me. The pink worming tablets - I coat in peanut paste then insert the whole gooey mess inside a piece of sardine. She doesn't bother chewing that for some reason. Just swallows it whole.

Snakes are out in SA - so be careful about letting dogs go where there are snakes. There are quite a few native animals that get upset by dogs - along the coast and on KI so it's dogs on lead most places. In SA the default is dogs on lead unless there is a sign saying otherwise. There are bush ticks - but they probably won't kill a dog. And the "dog park" at Coomandook is about 3m x 3m, with a 3' tin fence, full of long grass and ants. Don't bother walking under the railway to find it. I just looked up where had footy ovals and did a couple of laps around those and cleaned up after if necessary. More than the locals and the ducks seemed to do.

If she starts to have trouble breathing and starts drooling excessively - she could have something lodged in the airway. If the cough gets worse with exercise - it could be kennel cough (even if she's vax against). If she's having trouble breathing - I'd be taking her to emergency vet ASAP. If it's kennel cough it could also be serious - but you could probaby wait till morning (and definitely warn the vet so your dog can be kept separate from others). But if she stops being "her normal self" - then maybe not wait. Note - I am not a vet - and there might be other possibilities.

post in thread if you want to go / meet up. --------------------------------------------- PURINA® BARK IN THE PARK®, 20th of October 2012 Rymill Park, Adelaide (East Parklands between Rundle and Bartels rd aka Pirie St/Norwood Pde) 10am to 2pm. https://www.purina.com.au/bark-in-the-park/events-adelaide.ashx (link gives info about other states' bark in parks too - sorry no Hobart - don't blame me). It's a dog-on-lead area. lots of fun activities to enjoy together with your dog including: - Dog Washing - Grooming Classes - Photo session to capture their memory of the day - ‘It’s A Dog Out’ – an "agility" course for dogs and owners - Weigh-In and Health Centre - Behavioural and Training Advice - Lots of exciting competitions including: “Owner & Pet Look Alike”, “Doggie Fashion Parade”! Plus, free samples from the BENEFUL® range of meals. If we want to meet up - I suggest meeting up near Victoria Park, maybe near the drinking fountain at the End of Angas St - parking available along East Terrace between Angas and Halifax and Victoria Park is dog off lead for a quick zoomie (Pedal Prix/Organised Sport permitting) before walking across to Rymil Park.

Post in thread if you want to go. Dog Day at the Beach Henley Square (Henley Beach, Adelaide, South Australia) Sunday 7th October 11am to 2:30pm Henley Square corner seaview and Main Street Henley Beach Best parking - the esplanade (enter from Northern end) north of the square. Dogs on lead please (Daylight Savings rules) to register for your chance in the goodie bag raffle and for the free BBQ phone Charles Sturt Council 8408 1111 or visit http://www.charlessturt.sa.gov.au/page.aspx?u=750 The blurb. As part of an educational campaign to promote responsible dog ownership the City of Charles Sturt is organising a beach event at Henley Square. The event is aimed at promoting the upcoming daylight savings dog on-leash requirements as well as the importance of responsible dog ownership, community awareness regarding dog safety and Council's role in animal management. The event will include a free BBQ and Henley to Grange Jetty dog walk together with a range of activities and guest speakers on the day all aimed at promoting responsible dog ownership. To make this a great community event I invite you to attend on the day and enjoy the various planned activities if you are available. If I go, I will park up north on the Esplanade (enter from the northern end). If the weather is insanely crap - I will do something else. And if nobody else wants to meet up, I will probably do our usual beach walk up at Tennyson (walking distance to Grange Jetty) starting 8am to 8:30am ish. Meet near Moredun St (has a toilet block) or the Esplanade opp Hillview Ave.

For my first 10 years or so on computer networks, they all thought I was a bloke and then they'd call me gay, and I'd write "you say that like it's a bad thing". (and same if they knew and called me a female dog). certainly on the more techy forums they all think you're a bloke. At least now they've stopped preening and trying to impress like excited pigeons when they find a female on the net. I get confused in here when people have cute blokes in their avatars but aren't blokes ie they put their wonderwall hero as their avatar. It's not so bad when they put their fave dog in their avatar. Note - I just made my avatar to be something easy to find when scrolling through lots of posts - like a big red(not) dot.

This is what you did to your dog - for being a normal dog. Sorry some of us did that to you for being a normal member of the dog owning public. We're all a bit special (dog obsessed?) in here. This is a learning opportunity for you. Maybe we're not the most tactful and considerate in our delivery. That might be why some of us prefer dogs to people, most of them are more forgiving of rude blunt truth. But there's plenty for you to learn - in your dog's best interest. Next time - you're right - it could be a poisonous snake. So I'm thinking you'd probably do better with face to face help. The person I've seen recommended here for Perth area is Kathy Kopellis McLeod http://kathysdogtraining.com.au/ in this thread. http://www.dolforums.com.au/topic/227824-dog-behaviourist-in-perth-recommendations/ If she is too far away from you, she may be able to recommend someone closer or come up with another way for you to learn what you need to know to train your dog to come when you want. PS until then keep your dog on a lead short enough that you can prevent encounters with wildlife.

These are the links she posted on another website. We weren't at all supportive over there either. http://truthaboutvaccines.org/ articles http://truthaboutvaccines.org/articles.html http://www.dogsadversereactions.com/scienceVaccineDamage.html http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/vaccine-damage-in-dogs-1/ There's a bit of confusion between anecdotes and evidence in at least one of these. Ie study sample sizes way too small to be valid. There is also a quite common practice (my vet did it) of doing the heart worm injection with the vaccination injection - which both products recommend against. I don't get the heart worm injection any more - prefer the other methods. Creek also talked about exposing her puppies to build their immune system in a controlled environment - but that's exactly what a vaccine is - a controlled dose of the disease (usually dead) that is enough to get the body to build antibodies (immunity) but not enough to make a body severely ill. I imagine (haven't checked) that a body that got very sick from a tiny inactive dose of the disease - would not handle the full blown wild disease at all well. And then there are the people (and dogs?) that are allergic to egg - and many vaccines contain egg. I think our other choice is mares' pee (can't be stuffed checking that one either). I hope she finds some more reliable sources for her information before one of her animals or children gets really ill. I was quite rude about chicken pox parties. A child is more likely to get severely ill from one of those not to mention getting shingles later in life, than from the vaccine.

I'm not into all the alpha dog and dominance stuff much. But I do believe that one must be reasonably consistent (at least 4 times out of 5) about stopping puppy from engaging in or continuing in behaviour you find unacceptable - like barking at nothing in particular or to get attention, biting, and ripping the couch to pieces etc. That doesn't mean you have to punish him when he's naughty, but just physically interupt him (with a noise or by getting hold of him) and giving him something else more acceptable to do. Distract and re-direct. I think that's what most trainers mean by "pack leader". It's your home and your rules, so make sure puppy knows what appropriate behaviour is.

http://www.petrescue.com.au/rehoming_your_pet/ pet rescue has some really good advice on how to go about this. The first page is asking do you really have to - you could skip that one, I'm willing to accept this is something you've already thought through. The next pages go through how to rehome. You've started on the right track with desexing. I would second their recommendation about setting a fee, and why. And the rest of the website shows what kind of information is useful for people looking for dogs. You might be able to find a rescue member local to you on that site who could list your dog for you. I'd consider putting up a page with a photo at your local vets' notice boards and maybe pet supplies shops too. You know the ones with tear off contact details along the bottom. If someone has just PTS their dog - they may be looking for another, or if they already have one they like and you know they take it to the vet when it needs cos they're in there - they may consider adopting a second one. And I'd ask the breeder to ask the breed club to send out an email to their contact list on your behalf also.

squashed face? Like a pug? Or maybe a Lhasa Apso? squashed face often equals snoring though if the new owner is fairly deaf that might not matter. I have a friend involved in this one - they may know of a dog that would suit. http://www.facebook.com/#!/LittleLegsDogRescue

Yes but which methods are more appropriate at puppy school? And some of the dogs that CM uses his techniques on are just naughty family pets whose bad behaviour has been encouraged by their owners - ie its the owners that need re-training - not the dog, and yet the dog gets punished.

Isn't it interesting - the dogs that CM has "rehab'd", are always trying to get away from him, they're looking away from him and doing all sorts of dog calming signals... And Susan Garrett's dogs are all doing exactly what she asked of them and waiting patiently with extreme attention on her for any sign of the fun thing they're going to do next together. I did puppy school, there was one dog that sat under the chair, and it was allowed to. I think it eventually came out and joined in but there was no pressure for it to do so. There was a mix of on lead and free play. And no puppy tried to beat any of the others up. We were told how to deal with it at the start though - ie grab hind legs of your puppy while other owner grabs their puppy and pull them out backwards. Avoid the front end. I have found in practice - this is quite difficult to do - ie puppy doesn't wait for you to grab it.

You could contact www.k9pro.com.au for some more specific help. I would also report the breeder to your local council or the RSPCA because they have breached a bunch of enforcable codes on this... http://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/agriculture/livestock/animal-welfare/codes/breeding-dogs-and-cats specifically the standards listed on page 30, transfer of ownership and page 33 The vaccinations and microchipping are not likely to have been done on puppies under 6 weeks old. In fact I think the minimum age for microchipping is 8 weeks and in NSW, puppies are not to be sold without being microchipped. And vaccinated. I'm willing to bet you didn't get the written guarantee or any info on how to look after your puppies. I'd report the breeder.

raw chicken and sometimes egg - has salmonella - and in high doses this could be bad. So I wouldn't feed raw chicken that had been left out the fridge a few hours. I don't feed raw chicken bones (wings, necks etc) because my dog vomits them back up. Not fun. I don't feed raw other bones because my dog makes sharp splinters of them and they come back to haunt us at the other end. I've also seen an episode of roger ramvet - where a kelpie was in because it had inhaled (instead of swallowing) an entire chicken carcass (aka frame), was slowly choking to death. And I have a friend whose bull terrier did this with a raw beef bone ($6K to get it out). So bones can be dangerous - depending what your dog does with them. I think feeding dogs offal (eg liver) is banned in tas because of hydatids or something. Just tell your friend to get a second opinion. Or ask her vet to be more specific about why. Dogs having accidents by not eating bones correctly is fairly common. http://adelaidevet.com.au/about/patients/zoes-bony-treat And I'd avoid the bones/mince labelled pet food - much rather have stuff that is "human grade" ie better quality food safety.

Well I have to keep my dog on lead at our local park most of the time - because of all the roast chicken scraps left in the footy club car park, the lollies and sandwiches (still in their gladwrap) dumped in the playground, the chippies all over the oval, and the strapping tape ($4000 to remove by emergency vet, I heard last week), and various other problems... So yesterday there was one of those scruffy poodle x running all over the oval from one footy goal to the other, I and the other people I was walking with could not tell who the owner was - and sure enough it crapped next to the bmx track and nobody came and picked it up. Eventually we saw a family in the playground with a dog lead and no dog, so I asked them if it was their dog. yes it was. They were watching their child not the dog. And yes the dog has crap recall (zero). They were mortified when I told them that their dog had taken a dump and did come and help us look for it. I just told them they owed the oval a pick up - ie if they see a crap that someone else missed - to pick it up. At our oval - the bins are full of bags of dog crap - most of the dog owners are doing the right thing. The sports people and school kiddies and their minders are not. Nobody is picking up after them except the dog owners!!!

RinnyRow I think it's great that your Inlaws like having your puppy over and are willing to contribute to the training. You avoid so many puppy problems with separation anxiety, barking all day and toilet training. I'm sure your MIL means well and didn't understand how it messes with your head. I think it would help if you get your MIL to reward your puppy with low value treats like chopped carrot or kibble. Make sure she's not sharing cake or roast chicken. Supply the kibble if necessary. Use the PREMACK principle: Make sure before you release your puppy to go visit your MIL, that you have a release word like "Where's MILly" (or whatever her name is). And get your puppy to hold a nice calm sit (and then sit stay) before you let her go. Ie make the reward of the MIL come from you. And then the value she has connected to MIL becomes connected to you. If ever you call Penny and she doesn't come - go and get her - don't sulk - just enforce your rules. When you get home - have a fun game with Penny with lots of fun rewards. What the others have said about keeping her on lead in the yard when you're home - so she only gets to visit next door with permission, and crate training, I agree with. Do let her go but make sure she has permission. If she goes without permission - go get her back and start over with the calm sit sequence. Be consistent as possible - if you can get this right 4 out of 5 times, it will work. You may also (along with the PREMACK principle) want to investigate NILIF or Nothing in life is free. Ie if a dog has to work for their rewards - they value them more. If you give them away (eg patting the dog to sleep) they don't have any value for it. You may want to have a discussion with your MIL about whose dog is it in her mind and does she really want to keep Penny and would she be ok with you getting another dog. Try to be open minded about it and just clarify things all round. If she wants Penny to be your puppy then she can help by the kibble rewards (in the ration you supply) and making sure Penny only comes over when she has permission (maybe put on a special coloured collar or something or just take her over on lead and release (with the cue word) when she does have permission). If she wants to keep Penny, I think you may as well get another dog, frustrating as that is. If you do get another dog, it may pay to get an older dog, and follow the Ruff Love program by Susan Garrett eg no off lead time, lots of crate time when you're not supervising - and lots of fun training games with high reward with you - for the whole of the first month, and no off lead until the dog comes when you call no matter what. You could try this with Penny - but you need your MIL to be clear in her head that Penny is your dog.

LOL - I've got three now. I didn't buy the first one - kind of handed down or "stored at my place" by my brother... and then i got a really big discount soft sided fold up crate - and we wore through the bottom of it and someone big sat (or fell) on the top and broke one of the side support pole thingies. I've made some "temporary" fixes with duct tape and cable ties and super glue - so it functions as the living room crate. And I bought another for out and about. And I always put a tarp under that one to protect the bottom of it from the ground - especially abrasive concrete. So crate to crate games - you can substitute a mat (bath mat or folded towel etc) for a second crate. Same sort of rules as for the crate apply ie dog has to stay on the mat until released if you sent her there.

One more thing, up date on the crate games... SG uses the wire mesh crate so that you can see what she's doing with the dog - ie for the camera. But it works better if you start with one of those hard shell things, and then graduate to a soft sided crate for the faster stuff. And when she's looking to build speed and enthusiasm, she throws treats into the back of the crate as the dog goes in - which doesn't work so well if the crate is a wire one and the treats go straight out the back. Or if there is a big cushion in there that hides the treats. And once the dog is blasting in and out of the crate on cue (imagine that), the floor of the crate needs to be something not too slippery and doesn't bunch up under the dog. And outside and pegged down is good.

I meant snooker - you can choose which red you do when... ie make up your own course. Gamblers and no "go out" - we're so not ready for that either.

i think there is some trouble shooting stuff at the end... about re-balancing your treats... have you watched it all the way through yet? My dog would not sit for opening door. Didn't matter how long I waited. She did not get it. She'd be standing up or lying down or whatever - she wouldn't move at all until I got the door open. I think she found the hand on her head blocking sneaky exits so erm embarrassing? anyway she got that message completely - no coming out until invited. The other sneaky thing about crate games is you have to be aware - not to reward if the dog goes in and you haven't cued it (once you've completed stage 3), and not to reward coming out when that happens either ie sneaky human training dogs - will go in the crate unasked in the hopes of getting a release and all the goodies that go with that... And you want them to know the difference between if they put themselves in there, they can release themselves vs if you tell them to go in there, they can't come out until you say. It's a tricky thing and I don't think me and my hound have it right at the moment.