Mrs Rusty Bucket

I took a photo of my dog in the backyard - at night time. see the two white dots sort of lower leftish - that's my dog's eyes... I didn't think it was that dark - I could see her without the camera but the camera couldn't see her at all - apart from the reflection of the flash. PS so I guess she's got blue white eye reflection?

I took a photo...

how do you stop?

Thankyou for the update peytonsmumma Glad you're getting things back on track. Sometimes house sharing can be hell.

I use "good dog" at home, and "good dog" I mean "good job" on the hockey field... I've also started saying "yes" a lot on the hockey field. Just as well I'm having a break (sort of) this year. Non reward markers "what! do you think you're doing?!" "oops" (for me and for her) Susan Garrett suggests using "is it? / where is it?" as if she was lost on course for an NRM because where she competes any kind of verbal reprimand (which NRM might be mistook for), is not allowed. Not like here - where verbal reprimands are not allowed but nobody gets DQ'd for it - usually the loud verbal reprimand comes out just after the dog does an off course... so they're already DQ'd - DQ is not a disincentive. Evil hound dishes out more verbal reprimands than I do.

I don't know zug zug - you might have to find some stuff that beeps in a similar way and see what happens... I have read about one trainer - who group trained a bunch of people and dogs with clickers... they were all clicking and their dogs figured out whose click was for which dog. They've got better hearing that us - so hopefully would know the difference between the judge's watch/beeper and yours. I would be more worried about them anticipating a release after your training beep and then going early... But I have managed to teach mine the difference between "yes" (your treat is coming) and release for exercise finished. Tho she often does equate a treat with "exercise finished" which is a bit of a pain when you're trying to reward start line stays.

I think there is some sort of whitening shampoo for horses if the regular stuff doesn't sort it. I've seen people recommend apple cider with "mother?" in it from health food shops (not the orange juice section of the supermarket), for sorting the stains on SWF tear ducts and faces and paws. I guess you could try a diluted solution of that to see if it makes a difference.

http://www.adelaideveterinarybehaviourservices.com.au/www/content/default.aspx?cid=645 As usual - it looks like half a report. They're South Australian experts but not the people I'd go to if I wanted to sort aggression problems. I don't know anything about them. Ms Bache is a Delta accredited trainer. My evil hound - shows something that looks like "aggression" when she wants to say hello. Which I think is something I accidentally rewarded at some level or just how she expresses frustration. It is good they suggest ruling out medical reasons for the aggression.

My Slazenger combo watch ($30 from big W) has a interval beep system suitable for training reps at Gym... It also has a count down timer. However - my dog has learned what the beeps on the microwave mean - especially if her dinner is in it. And she will come and get me if I don't sort it for her. (dinner is ready). And the hockey teams I umpire know what the beeps from my watch mean too... it's a bit hard if the other umpire is keeping time or we're trying to play a short corner out - they have to keep going until another free is awarded or the ball goes out of the circle (the second time).

What Diva said Get the bark you want on cue - start with any situation your dog will naturally bark in - my dog's fave is dinner time... Once you have bark on cue - only reward when you asked for it (cue'd it). Then knock on the door as the new cue, say your bark cue, and reward when your dog barks. Repeat until your dog will bark when someone knocks on the door. Make sure the reward is with you so ideally your dog will bark when someone knocks and then come ask you for the reward... Get some friends or neighbours to help with the knocking and beware dog anticipating a knock on the door and barking at people walking by the door... My dog barks at the squeaky gate now - it's pretty hard to sneak in.

I guess a very simple way to amateur test it, is to get something that weighs the same as your dog and drop it off a balcony (and film that) and make sure nobody is walking anywhere near underneath. I have heard filling up a 10 litre paper bag (like flour comes in) with water and dropping that off a balcony will crack concrete (and probably people's skulls). So find something that weighs 20kg and drop that off the balcony - with a (Mountaineering rope) attached - different lengths of fall - would be equivalent to different speed crashes.

OutofsightHound Anyone can book the course at Virginia through the greyhound association for a day of lure coursing at $4 per run... It's great fun. There is a whole thread about it - note the opening poster doesn't post here any more that I know of but I think there is sufficient info on there to find the right guy to contact... http://www.dolforums.com.au/topic/226484-lure-coursing-in-adelaide-for-non-greyhounds/ And if you post in here or in the social events part of the forum there are about 10 to 20 of us and dogs that will go out to Virginia for a run. It's important to make sure we don't clash with greyhound training tho.

I've got a bergan too. I like that it has wide strapping, and it doesn't rely on plastic snap buckles to hold the dog - it has a webbing strap with two mountain climbing grade swing clips - one of which I clip through the loop that holds the seatbelt clip and the other end goes through two webbing loops that are part of the harness. It could still fail - as it is difficult to get a snug fit that is still comfortable for the dog. And it needs some stitches through the webbing stuff to stop it coming loose in the adjustable bits. Still better than nothing. When I've had to do emergency stops - it has worked fine - tho that's not the same as hitting a tree doing 60km/h. That's going to be bad no matter what the dog is wearing. PS I had a Kra m ar one - and the snap buckle on that broke when I was strapping the dog in. So I'd rate those as useless.

looks great... I think we should stick posters like these up in our local cafes and takeaways - to get more spectators. Though long term - we could use more participants...

Frosty has broken more than one of the cheap as chips leads... The plastic clip at the top (dog end) just breaks apart when she decides she wants to say hello to the flappy squealy neighbour who loves her dearly...

If the dog goes in the crate of his own accord - different rules apply and he can self release... If you sent him to the crate with a crate command word/phrase then he's only allowed out when he meets the criteria for release... Dogs do understand different contexts... I have vastly different criteria for the crate in the corner inside at home, than the one outside at training... One thing I am consistent about no matter where the crate is - if I need to shut the dog in the crate (and I really should do this at home more often - just for practice) - the evil hound is not getting out if she's barking. I will only go over to cover the crate up. Note - if you're using a wire crate for barking dog, you may need to put some cardboard over the top that keeps the cover away from the top and the sides of the crate so evil hound cannot pull the cover in and rip it to shreds in her frustration.

I use "go" but it does my head in at trials when the judges say "when you're ready - you may GO". The dog stays (phew) but my head goes to mush. Was thinking of changing it to some other word like "Va" or "Allez" (French for "go) or "gehts" (Gates) - german for go (sounds too much like "wait" - which is my stay word) or even Vite (veet) or Schnell (hurry). Actually I like "Schnell" but "go" is what comes out of my mouth naturally. Changing is going to mean training and practice for both of us. That's the point of training - to make awkward moves more comfortable. I don't want to use "break" cos too many other people use it. But it was funny when LOH tried to use it with my dog and she just stayed... oops. For release I also use "geddit", "on special" (dinner time), (go) "say hello", go-play... which are all a little bit context specific.

I like rope leads for horses - nice soft cotton... cheap - usually under $10 and don't break when the dog decides to go after the speeding car. I usually tie a big loop in the end and a few knots along the line. Probably wouldn't be the greatest thing for a tiny dog though. Oh and will endure more than thirty seconds of chomping too. Not like the flat webbing ones. Or the fleecy ones.

hi Peyton's Mumma Do let us know how it goes. I love an update. So wish this forum had a like the post button - often. Tell Deb (next time) - Frosty says Hi - we love Gladys.

Media usually takes the side of the sporting club - especially if they have a lot of juniors. You have to be really careful about it. And really well organised but vague - ie no fixed target for the bullies to attack. Get everyone to put their own individual submissions in as they carry more weight in numbers than a few people representing a sports club. And work your way up in the council hierarchy and get your local reps to help you... the reception staff are there to fob you off and keep the council work load down. you need to get help higher up the food chain. And it is important to remind the council hierarchy who is paying the rates - and out of council athletes are not - they cost a lot more than they bring in. And dog walking is much more inclusive than organised sport when it comes to keeping the local community healthy... both physically and mentally. Our oval is given to two male only sports. FFS. Really easy to show they are not helping the majority, the older citizens or the disabled. Where as dog walkers - are mostly women, often older, and sometimes disabled.

Hi Peyton's Mumma You could try contacting the Rottweiler club of SA for help... http://www.rottweilerclubsa.com.au/ Especially Beverley or Deb. The club also holds obedience classes near West Terrace - which are open to all dog breeds but they do have a special understanding for rotties. I'm not sure if I'd be game to do this with an adult rotti who was angry with me, but one that's just playing - well I've done it with staffies and cattle dogs and they can break bones when they want to... If a dog chomps on me - I push gently towards the back of their throat until they try to spit me out, then I hold for one second, and then let them spit me out. And then I don't play for about 30 seconds or until the dog notices I'm not playing any more and shows some sign of caring about it (eg backs off and re-invites play). I'm very careful to be as gentle with the dog as I want them to be with me. I agree with the others suggestions for Mark Singer. And I've also seen these two recommended in here. Amy Van Dyk at Advance Behavioural Training http://www.advancebehaviouraltraining.com.au/ Debra Millikan http://positivelydogs.com/faq/ If they're not able to help - ask them to recommend someone else for you. When ever I've needed to get someone else to look after my dog, I've always had a backup plan with a professional dog boarding facility that I've visited beforehand with my dog - so if it all goes pear shaped with my friends or family - they know where the dog can go, and the boarding facility knows me and my dog too. It's been a life saver for me. My evil hound, while adorable, can be a serious PITA too. I would ask the rottie club people to recommend their favourite dog boarding facilities. It's so nice not to need to share house with anyone.

Blackdogs Me and a lot of my dog owning friends are in very similar situation. Our local park is next to a primary school. There is also a playground - that the school uses but is on council land. The park (and the school grounds) was donated by a founding father of the state - for the enjoyment of the residents of the suburb. The sports clubs that use it, and the school - have very large number of members that are not residents of the suburb or even the council area. One particular sports club we have lots of problems with - whether walking dogs or trying to use the space for anything else - because their sport is dangerous. And yet they have a state wide lobby group that harasses our council and councillors - one time - quite directly - 40 of them showed up to a council meeting and asked for and got - more time on the oval - at the expense of residents and against the wishes of the ward reps. Sigh. We're still fighting this battle - but letting your ward reps (councillors) know directly what happened, will get the club to pull its head in and at least be polite to you - tho they will likely lobby to get rid of dogs altogether and it's up to you to organise people who own dogs in the area to fight this. Which can be as simple as a letter box drop with a flyer outlining the actual rules about who owns the oval and the usage rules - as the council has supplied you. You'd be amazed how many people accept being harassed by ignorant sports participants as gospel. And letting them know they can use the park too often evens up the numbers considerably. We got 300 people to respond in one round of public consultation - tho we still haven't gotten what we want. It did get at least the local ward reps on our side. Trouble is we need to get at least 3 more sets of ward reps voting on our side to get what we want. It's possible - we've got enough dog owners in their wards to do it. We get quite a few sports clubs stealing the use of the oval without permission that doesn't help the balance required (but ignored) between sports clubs and residents informal use. But we report them, with photos...

I have a whole bunch of these games. I don't just want the evil hound to focus on me, but also on where she's going (for agility). So I also practice getting her to look where I've aimed her (in a sit or stand stay), and then release for a fun game of chase me or tug or food. we also do this at dinner time - She doesn't get released for the food - until she looks at it instead of me. But she often looks at me too... And when playing IYC - I do the food everywhere... I also play with the food, rattle it in a cup, pick it up and drop it back in my hand, tap or point at it... and when she looks at anything but the food - I reward... Frosty got completely fooled in a game of IYC with Lynda Orton Hill last feb because Lynda had "somebody else's treats" and she tapped the table where they were. Which Evil hound took as an invitation to counter surf the table... foiled... Next day - when LOH wanted to demo naughty dog... Frosty had already figured out what she needed to do to get the food and wouldn't counter surf. I wish it was so easy at home. Have managed to teach her to sit and bark at things she wants - though I also need to teach her "enough" for when she's not getting it.

The article about vit c - says you over dose a dog (or cat) with that and you risk urine crystals... not just more vit c in the pee... Some breeds are more prone to crystals and they're the ones you'd want to be careful with.

I think you'd want to be careful before supplementing vitamin C in dogs.. http://www.facebook.com/l.php?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.petmd.com%2Fblogs%2Fthedailyvet%2Fktudor%2F2012%2Fsept%2Fvitamin_c_and_calcium_oxalate_stones%23.UZjJ174iPX4&h=PAQGZhRbf I have read more than once in dogs (and humans) that you need to supplement vitamin E if you're feeding lots of fish oil - because that depletes vitamin E... Not sure if that applies to other supplements that are supposed to help with joint recovery and rehab.