Mrs Rusty Bucket

puggedforlife That is so unfair, especially so soon after getting the lumps off and all. You and the vet were doing all the right things for him. This is just not fair. You have every right to feel angry and sad and upset and grief and rage and laugh at the good memories and then feel sad again... and anything else you feel or not feel is ok too. I think I'd have to eat all my chocolate at once to survive something as crappy as this. Sending virtual hugs from here.

it's called stock yard and crusher http://www.australianstockyards.com.au/id/2/

dammit, why couldn't they have used fishing line to reconstruct my knee instead of stuffing up my patella tendon...

So if it stuffs up insect skeletons, does it work on ants too?

Depends on the chemical If it's glyphosate / roundup / zero - I wouldn't be overly worried. Something else and I'd want to be checking the chemical data. I suggest taking your dog somewhere else for his morning grass fix until the new lawn is in and growing well.

from the abrantes article. This I agree with. One dog is not dominant all the time. Different dogs lead at different times based on what skills are needed in a given context. They take turns. And in some contexts where there are very few resources - they run alone not as a pack. Eg dingos in the desert. I don't like the people claiming they need to dominate their dogs and be the alpha at all times, any more than I like the people who are all cookies and never stop their dogs from being naughty either. My fave trainers say "positive is not permissive" but that also confuses the science jargon. Because positive punishment is "positive" - but in my opinion - a last resort quadrant. Even dogs use it last not first. And yet most amateur dog clubs use it first (choke chains). There is also that really blurry intersection in the middle of the quadrants - ie is withholding a treat - the same as punishing a dog? If you ask mine - then yes. Is giving a "you're not going to get a treat for that behaviour" marker word - the same as mildly scolding a dog (ie telling it "no"). I do know from personal experience that being yelled at for being in the wrong place - does not help me figure out where the right place on the hockey field is.

It is possible to see (if you're not blind or exercising your dog off lead in the dark) if zoomies are likely to prang something. If both owners were happy with their dogs doing zoomies together and one dog got injured (this happens too), I would say the "it was just an accident" would be a fair call. But in this case - someone else got injured - who had a reasonable expectation of being able to walk in the park without being pranged by other people or their dogs. If a tree branch fell on her she'd probably sue the council. I equate the zoomie prang into a stranger - as being a bit like if you left your kids in the car and they let the handbrake off and it rolled down the hill and ran over someone or pranged another car. Do you think you would not be expected to pay because it was "just an accident" and there are cars on the road and sometimes they prang into things?

This is the original wolf alpha guy David Mech on what dog trainers have done to his theory - video at bottom of page. http://alexadry.hubpages.com/hub/David-Mechs-Theory-on-the-Alpha-Role He's about as thrilled with the idea as the guy who coined the name "labradoodle" - not happy. Here's some more accurate info about wolf pack structure - which may or may not apply to dog structure. All I know is encourage your dog to make choices you like in your home, and don't let your dog make decisions you don't like in your home. But you don't have to make all the dog's decisions either. http://www.felixho.be/en/canineSquad/wolf_1.html http://www.felixho.be/en/canineSquad/wolf_2.html

duplicate (not patient enough)

There are deaf people in the world - so the headphones by themselves are not a contributing factor. If it was a deaf person walking their dog that got skittled - would you blame them for being deaf in a park where dogs are allowed off lead. Also - if I'm wearing headphones - I can usually hear what is going on around me too. Not that I wear them in public places (airplanes excepted). The rules for off lead dogs in public spaces require effective control at all times. So the council / police would have to assume that the dogs were under the owner's effective control so the dog owners are responsible for the injury and if it was my dog - I'd feel responsible for costs. Tho I have been scammed this way when my dog jumped on someone's car door to say hello to his dog when he called my dog... Great. Most people don't carry insurance that covers damage their dog might do to people or property out and about. Maybe we should. If it was a kangaroo that skittled the lady - bad luck. Nobody is in control of the roo. But it's someone's dog who is supposed to be under effective control - so owner responsible. I am really careful these days after my dog got into a game of zoomies with a lab - and the lab skittled the lab's owner because of it. Both the lab and the owner were very slow to get up after but they didn't blame me or my dog, but I could have stopped it. Now I make a lot of noise so the dogs know they're approaching something (me or a fence or other people). And if I think there is not enough room for prang free zoomies, I call my dog back to me or stop her. If it was a jogger that wasn't paying attention and pranged the lady - who would be at fault then. A person walking across a public park has a reasonable expectation of not being pranged by dogs, bikes, children, joggers, lawnmowers from behind.

There are deaf people in the world - so the headphones by themselves are not a contributing factor. If it was a deaf person walking their dog that got skittled - would you blame them for being deaf in a park where dogs are allowed off lead. Also - if I'm wearing headphones - I can usually hear what is going on around me too. Not that I wear them in public places (airplanes excepted). The rules for off lead dogs in public spaces require effective control at all times. So the council / police would have to assume that the dogs were under the owner's effective control so the dog owners are responsible for the injury and if it was my dog - I'd feel responsible for costs. Tho I have been scammed this way when my dog jumped on someone's car door to say hello to his dog when he called my dog... Great. Most people don't carry insurance that covers damage their dog might do to people or property out and about. Maybe we should. If it was a kangaroo that skittled the lady - bad luck. Nobody is in control of the roo. But it's someone's dog who is supposed to be under effective control - so owner responsible. I am really careful these days after my dog got into a game of zoomies with a lab - and the lab skittled the lab's owner because of it. Both the lab and the owner were very slow to get up after but they didn't blame me or my dog, but I could have stopped it. Now I make a lot of noise so the dogs know they're approaching something (me or a fence or other people). And if I think there is not enough room for prang free zoomies, I call my dog back to me or stop her. If it was a jogger that wasn't paying attention and pranged the lady - who would be at fault then. A person walking across a public park has a reasonable expectation of not being pranged by dogs, bikes, children, joggers, lawnmowers from behind.

There's lots of dogs around here that don't like other dogs in their space but they won't rush up to another dog to pick a fight. They will react badly to one that rushes up to them. So they're fine for most of what we do by way of agility training - dogs are usually separated, or run the course one at a time so as long as each dog stays with their boss - it's all good. Every now and again you get a dog that will forget the boss and go after another dog. Those ones - aren't such good candidates for agility. Not until the running off and attacking random dogs is sorted. But part of agility training is training your dog to work with you no matter what the distraction - from other dogs, to thrown toys, running people, barking dogs, bowls of food, model planes, possums running across the course, magpies on course. frustrated people having temper tantrums - it all happens...

If a thief stole a litter of puppies and told you that he'd drown them if you didn't buy one - would you reward his behaviour by buying one? Or ask for a look, get the rego of his car and his phone number with a view to buying one - and call the cops? This person perhaps not as bad as a thief but - you don't want to be rewarding this kind of behaviour by giving them money. In QLD - the breeder must microchip the puppy at 8 weeks of age, and hopefully vaccinate and worm etc before rehoming or selling the puppies. Personally from someone like this - I would want all "promises" in writing - including what the vet says - in writing on the vet's letterhead with their phone number so you can ring them up and verify independently. Everything this person has told you for why you must take the puppy early - are routinely told to puppy buyers by bad people who tell lies. This person might be honest but they're not doing the right thing. In QLD the AWL used to have a deal where the owner of the bitch could trade the puppies for a desex operation. I think that's the right thing to do with an "accidental" litter. There's no profit for the owner, and no chance of another accident.

I have found if I pick my feet up higher than usual - to step over things - I usually get my dog, whose nose was close to the back of my knee in the face. She doesn't seem bothered.

the Sharpei rescue people get it done routinely on rescue dogs - I'm sure it wouldn't cost them that much.

You didn't offer him the choice? Is this not akin to me and the sardine trick? I missed the guide paw thing with shake hands because she uses her paws a lot to grab my hand and put it on her tummy for belly rubs. And we just modified that to a more refined handshake followed by a belly rub. She likes to swat me on the head too - cos that gets me up in the morning for some reason... tho her sitting by the back door and groaning would have the same effect - possibly faster. She only does that when she's about to explode.

Hi Erny I didn't mean yawn for a treat... I meant Yawn for tooth / mouth inspection like you see critters do at the zoo. If a seal can do it - surely my dog can (tho the seal might have a better trainer). So you train the tablet taking a bit like training for accepting claw trims... I'm not sure - I guess I can't imagine me eating something horrid to get something yum. I admit I did try this with my horse (when I had him) eat worm paste - get apple. But I never managed to train him to be nice about it.

so they have to put the gland back where it belongs (reposition) - not install a new one (replace?). How did the English language get this stupid. Thanks for the info Kirty. Suggesting eye drops might be a way to get the person and their dog into a vet though.

Thanks Erny I don't think I could persuade my dog to eat a canex wormer as a treat. I haven't managed training her to yawn or bow on command and she does those things of her own accord but the wormer - even I don't like the smell of it. She does like to sniff forage in the park, at the beach etc so she probably does get worms - tho there is no sign of them in the worm tablet pink poos I check. And we do spend time on farms occasionally. I haven't managed to train her not to forage either. I think that might involve some work with a head halter so I can "control the environment". She isn't all that honest either. She routinely fibs when she wants off lead - because I like to let her off to play with other dogs, but not to forage. So she pretends she wants to play with other dogs - the whole play bow routine, with the other dog responding... and then she ignores it and go-sniffs. Sigh.

Erny - how do you get wormers into him? That's what I put in the sardine - inside peanut paste or cream cheese.

I thought cherry eye needed surgery on the eye lids to stop the lashes digging into the eyeballs - not eye drops?

My dog isn't very fussy. But the fussy dogs I've met will all eat dried roo. Most of them will eat roast chicken or cooked chicken. When my dog has a tummy upset - I cook a cup of rice with a chicken thigh fillet chopped up in with it. Most dogs like things that are a little bit salty - like we put salt on our food but not seawater salty. My dog will eat anything wrapped in a sardine. I like the brunswick sardines in olive oil because they come from Canada and I hope the water there is not as polluted as the water in south east asia and off the African coast. She also likes yogurt. Since yogurt is "processed milk" - most of the stuff that causes tummy upsets - has been processed into something more people (and dogs) can tolerate. some people make "satin bliss balls" out of mince meat (cooked or raw - I think I'd cook it), mixed with egg and a few other things. Most dogs will eat that. My dog - she usually turns up her nose at things like raw meat, bones - because she's not given those often. But if she sees another dog wolfing it all down - she will reconsider and try the food with more enthusiasm. So it might work if the bowl you offer your dog and he refuses - is promptly scoffed down by another dog in front of him. Do this with all dogs on lead so you have some control if he suddenly changes his mind. If he does change his mind - you can give him a bowl of his own. Start with small serves - not the whole dinner at once. PS if you can't borrow the services of a dog for this... sometimes it works if you are the other dog. Ie You eat some choice food, then you offer a few bits of roast chicken or cheese or cooked meatball (no onion) and if he turns his nose up at it - you eat it with lip smacking enthusiasm...

Its daft as the Australian Veterinary Association now recommends not over vaccinating... http://www.ava.com.au/node/1049 Mostly as best I can tell - since their "position statement" links are all broken... They recommend getting a three year cover vaccine for distemper and parvo. and annually for the rest http://www.ava.com.au/node/1049 and its not really clear if they recommend titre testing at all. I reckon I could do that. Except - I can't find which vaccinations are for what where eg Triennal (every three years) is for distemper and Parvo what's in the C3? canine cough and? - except on my bill C3 and canine cough are itemised separately. Hmm might need to email my vet.

Hmm I got Frosty vaccinated a week or so ago - the bill says C3 and canine cough - which makes me think something is missing from a C5. And I only remember her getting one shot. And it really peeves me that a vaccination certificate is not standard issue. Because I always forget to ask for it. And I always need it. My vet knows about titre testing - but last time I asked - I think getting it done was about $90 per test, so two tests plus the vax for canine cough and whatever ... then coming back more than once to get separate vaccinations as required and vax consult pushing $70 a visit... and to me - without checking properly it looked like C5 much cheaper than titre testing + vaccinations as required. So how much does a titre test cost - how many do you need to do each year? and what vax should you be getting every year anyway? So confusing.

Angry tardis your dog sounds like a normal cattle dog cross to me - with extra dose of cattle dog - they're not called heelers (nip heels of moving critters) for nothing. I would absolutely get Aidan to help. I would not use food treats - well for my dog, she loves food and she will act naughty (aggressive) then act calm - to get the treat. Especially when I was using a treat to distract / lure her attention off the lawn mower man. Cattle dogs attacking men with power tools or lawn mowers or whipper snippers is very very common. I used to live with a cattle dog who had a great scar down the side of his face from where he bit a chainsaw while it was going. The way I deal with it is to use some trick training - with no food - at a distance sufficient she knows the machine distraction is there - but she can still pay attention to me quite easily (set up for success). If I use food - the excited aggressive behaviour I don't want - gets worse. Susan Garrett uses food to calm a dog down (like how you feel after Christmas dinner) but it winds my dog up. So if I'm trying to get calm behaviour, I reward with long slow pats, ear rubs, and tail rubs etc. Herding dogs are only supposed to chase or heel with permission. But you do have to have to train that consistently, ideally from little. If you can anticipate when your dog is going to go over the top (stop listening to you) - do what you can to prevent. Crate training is excellent for this. Mine loves her crate. She knows when she's in it - it's not her job to protect me or anything else, and that I trust whomever I'm with. If I don't trust the person - I keep her on short lead next to me. Including opening the front door to strangers. Works really well on door to door salesman - but she has no opportunity to do them any damage. They always leave when I ask them to :) The handy thing about a cattle dog - is they're very clever and they learn fast. This super smart brain is also what the dog uses to train you if you're not careful. I had to learn all new ways of training the dog I have now because unlike all the previous cattle dogs I've lived with - that could learn from punishment - this one is super soft (I suspect she has some border collie or kelpie in the mix if she's not all stumpy tail). If I did any of the usual punishments like alpha rolls, slaps on nose or even raise a fist at her - she would roll over and become like floppy jelly. All she knew was I was upset with her. She never made any connection to anything she'd done (like biting me). If the bite she did on your child was a heeling nip - its common in cattle dogs and you can train that out ie a behaviour not to be done on humans or their pet cats etc. If she savaged the child's calf muscle and ripped half the flesh off - that's something different. Given the child was able to keep walking and ignore - I'm thinking "nip". What I used to do was stand super still - takes the fun out of the "chase the boss" game. She could only play chase the boss if she didn't put her teeth on me. And we avoid "chase the dog" games because that just makes catching her really difficult. So until you get Aidan in - for now I would prevent as much as I could anticipate of the bad behaviour. Put her somewhere vistors and children do not have access or are unlikely to go. Do not let children run in the house when she's there. But if you can manage five minutes of dog on lead - so she can't chase and a bit of distraction training - where the children run by - just enough to get her interest but she remains calm - so you can reward with an ear rub... and as she gets good at that, increase the level of distraction - very very slowly one bit per day. My dog picks up on how I feel about other people and dogs I see. I get a bit angry about people doing the wrong thing or dogs that pull or harass me or my dog, and puppy mill specials that launch at me and my dog when we're walking. My dog knows... and she will tell them all off for me if I let her. At the moment I manage this by telling her she's a good dog for being calm (no food), blocking her if she goes off ie hold her collar and block her view of the dodgy dog and owner. Asking her for a drop stay up front if I see a potential problem coming - and telling her she's a good dog for holding the stay and paying attention to me - not the potential problem. often a happy "good dog" tone from me calms her and the other dog both - and it goes much better than if I "scold" her for signs of aggression. And scolding with me is pretty mild "what do you think you're doing?" in an offended tone is about it. But that's enough for her to decide the other dog is to blame and needs a proper yelling at from her. I second having a dog run, crate or room he can be in rather than tying him up. Tying a dog up and then exponsing him to distractions can lead to something called "The opposition reflex" which gets a dog even more wound up. However you can sort of train around that with something called "Triangle of Temptation" - see K9pro.com.au training articles. I did TOT without tying my dog up - just asked for gradually extended stays in front of dinner until I have a very rock solid stay from her. Tying her up has always been bad for us. But she's reasonable about it now. I'd just rather put her in a crate and pretty sure she prefers that too. Protects her from savage children, dogs and building contractors. good luck with your dog. use his smarts to work for you.