Mrs Rusty Bucket

RSPCA can take action where there's no water for a dog or proper shelter. I used to walk past a GSD that was living on a building site. The owners were living in a caravan in the front yard - sort of and he was tied to the front fence which was about knee high on him. I couldn't see any water for him and he jumped the fence to say hello to me and my dog - fortunately my dog chose to grovel so there was no fight but it was a bit scary. he didn't look well either coat all menky matted and patchy. So I rang council and RSPCA. And the next time I saw him there was a decent sized bucket of water and he was tied to the verandah so he couldn't jump the fence any more. His neighbours were grateful. He was friendly enough but a bit neglected and the fence jumping was just scary.

My dog was a rotter for eating pegs, and after one time I sprung her chewing on one, I gave her the "vomit treatment" and poured about 1/4 cup of really salty water down her throat until she started up chucking. No peg. I found the bits of peg later - she hadn't swallowed it this time. For a long time after - she didn't steal another peg - so I must have made a connection. Small smooth things - it's safe to get vomit treatment - is best within 30 minutes of eating the contraband, but up to 2 hours I think it will still work. I usually go to the vet, they've used all sorts of different things to start the vomiting. Including some expensive drug that needed an antidote to stop it... yuck - but I got the contraband back (chicken bones - probably the vet being best place to be with those - lucky not to spike on the way down or back). Must not use vomit treatment with wire or fish hooks. But is probably ok with strapping tape (that can be expensive if a big lump of it gets swallowed.

I really dislike when people approach me for donations in the shops. I'd rather sit down and consider what charities I want to support and do direct funds transfers or use their donate pages directly. I've been known to hand over pet stock vouchers and free sample dog foods to friends in rescue. They are more likely to use those up before they expire than I am. I have been known to buy the occasional shopping bag - proceeds to some charity or other. And I have been known to send snarky letters to people like the RSPCA who spend my donations on printing stuff to beg me for more donations. And I get really snarky when I get the same paper begging letter for the same already rescued dog over and over even after phoning them and telling them not to do that. They're not getting any more of my money any time soon.

12 months is pretty reasonable if a breeder doesn't have any puppies right now. Ie they have to choose and test the potential parents for good DNA compatibility. They have to wait for the bitch to come in season (could take 6 months or so), and then get pregnant and then gestate and give birth and then 8 to 12 weeks before can take puppy home. That doesn't leave much time out of a year for a planned litter.

Tobie - I think a good thing to do now is to look up some of the breed clubs in your state, and get along to some of their social events or all breed dog shows and meet them. That will make it much easier to choose. You will meet people and dogs you like and maybe some you don't like and discuss what you and they need and that will narrow your choice but give you more confidence in it. It also really helps the breeders if they get to meet people who are interested in their dogs and a potential puppy - you're more likely to get a puppy from them than if you just send an email. https://www.google.com.au/#q=spaniel+club+nsw&safe=active some of them have facebook pages that get updated more often than their web pages. And DogsNSW has the list of shows. If you want to show - you need to check the breeder and their dogs are listed with them - which is most likely if you meet them at a DogsNSW show. Not so likely if you find them on gumtree where registered often means "registered with the local council". Sorry about the dogs nsw format - they don't make it easy. http://www.dogsnsw.org.au/activities-a-events/shows-and-trials-guide.html

I think this is the key to the problem. Talicat accepted the landlord's offer on the unsaid but implied understanding that the conditions (dogs inside) would be the same as the place they had at the time. The landlord produced new conditions - because the fittings in the studio (new place) were all new - not because of problems at the previous place. Talicat and family would never have accepted the new place if they knew that the dogs would be expected to live outside. The landlord might not have understood that this is a problem with people who have dogs as an intergral part of their family. Lots of people think it is just fine to leave dogs outside all the time.

talicat Once you do get crates - you need to spend some time training the dogs to be comfortable and happy in them. There's loads of stuff on the net especially youtube about how to do this. Otherwise you can get a dog that screams in the crate or tears the crate (even a metal one) to pieces. Two resources I used for crate training... http://www.humanesociety.org/animals/dogs/tips/crate_training.html and Susan Garrett's Crate Games http://www.agilityclick.com/prod157.htm If you get the metal mesh crates - and you need to cover them up as part of the training (ie only quiet dogs get a view), then it's a good idea to put a cardboard box or something that holds the cover away from the sides out of reach of dog teeth - or they pull the cover in and shred it. At least that's what my dog did. Use menky old cheap covers (sheets or blankets from the op shop are good).

Ok this is in the league of two wrongs don't make a right but it's very tempting given the circumstances. I would take lots and lots of photos of every bit of the house inside and out - now so you can prove what condition it was in and what "damage" your dogs may or may not have done. And I would sneak them in. And I would pay my rent on time and keep the place as perfect as possible. Clean up any dog mess as soon as it happens, inside and out. And then if they really didn't like that you were in breach of the lease - first they'd have to prove it - someone would have to take photos without breaching your privacy - and then they'd have to serve notice to "remedy breach" and then they'd have to serve notice to evict... so by then... it would practically be August. And if the place was nice - they might not bother. I'd want to get more information about the details and timelines but it's a really tempting idea.

dogs like food that's bad for them. And you should see the drawings of pavlov's dogs in his experiments - a tad shocking. And those dogs would run to the lab to get hooked up because - that's where they got their food. So a dog that likes the environment is better than one that is traumatised or endangered by it. I'd rather train a dog to be as comfortable as possible in an environment that could freak out an untrained dog. Ie a small space without you nearby. Much rather use a crate than tie a dog by its neck and leave it like that for long periods of time like almost all my cousins on their farms do. A couple have dog runs - which are like big dog crates.

I've got friends with Welsh Springer Spaniels. While it's not a dog I'd want to get (long coat, and easily distracted), the ones I've met are very friendly with dogs and people.

Here's a more balanced view of crating dogs. From the USA equivalent of the RSPCA http://www.humanesociety.org/animals/dogs/tips/crate_training.html I think it's a tad irrational to think it's ok to crate an injured dog eg at the vet and for recovery at home, but never train the dog to be comfortable in a small space with the door shut (sometimes). I recently helped out at a two day agility trial and my dog came too and sat in her crate in a gazebo near where I was helping. She could see me and I could see her and she was very well behaved. She does express an opinion if she thinks I ought to be letting her out, or she needs to get out but mostly she's happy quietly watching the equivalent of dog telly or sleeping. I took her out as often as I could - about once every couple of hours. If I had not taken her and used the crate - she would have been locked in my house for the entire time. So just a bigger crate. And no time with me until I got home. I read a study ages ago that said if the area the dog had available was not huge (somewhat bigger than your average 1/4 acre block) - if the boss was not home and they were alone, they mostly slept.

I used steel wool (They don't like chewing it - like when you get tin foil on your fillings) and duct tape to block up some holes in kitchen cupboards in the place I used to rent. At the moment I like these guys www.gettrapped.com.au in particular these - have dispatched many mice. catches lots at once. Has taken all the mouse hunting joy out of the back yard for evil hound - who likes to hunt but not catch or kill. http://www.gettrapped.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&path=1_3&product_id=2 I got some of their $25 rat traps but haven't actually been able to make those work. And the large size mouse traps for rats - didn't catch any rats either - mostly cos the mice ate all the bait. http://www.gettrapped.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&path=1_2&product_id=81 Evil hound managed to tip the bait out of one of these and eat it without setting the thing off. The next bait was cable tied in. But still think the trip mechanism wasn't right. I may have to get some help to adjust it. I'm too scared to use rat baits now I have a dog but pretty sure my neighbours do - even tho that side has a cat (and canaries), and this side has a dog.

My dog has also been known to take advantage of the arc formed by my arm and about 50cm to 1m of lead - and just launch herself into the air to try to get - usually an animal but whatever it is she wants right now. So your arm goes from being straight down at your side to straight out in front with another bit of lead and a bit of dog's head at the end of that... If you've got two dogs launching as described in the report - the handler clearly wasn't prepared and the dogs would have had room to go 2m maybe more especially if it was UP (as described). I know my dog's launch distance, and that's how far I have to be away from joggers, toddlers if we're going to be properly safe on lead. Mostly she leaves joggers alone but there's some things that set her off and I don't guess right which thing that's going to be.

I have to agree with BoxerB I wish more people were dog savvy. It would make my life easier. But I assume that people are pretty much going to act as if my dog is perfect and even up for a pat, and a squeezy hug and a poke in the eyes from their toddler and I have to protect my dog from that. But while many joggers have experience with dogs chasing them and even having a bit of an ankle tap (most herding breeds are keen on this)... not many get head butt or bitten in the face. It's entirely up to the dog owner to know how their dogs deal with oncoming runners on "narrow" paths and prevent their dogs from doing anything stupid even if that means wrapping their leads around the nearest fence pole. I 100% blame the dog walker for this attack. Not the dogs and not the jogger.

This doesn't seem right. Just because the dogs were on lead doesn't mean it's ok to let them attack people. If the man lost control of his car and ran over some people - he'd still be liable.

I was hoping my cattle dog x something would get pointy ears but they've stayed steadfastly rose eared or half pricked. I thought given it's way too late to tape them now (If I'd known in the first three to four months, I'd have had a go but I probably would have had to stop her playing bitey face with other puppies too), I keep wondering if botox injections would do it for long enough for the cartilage to toughen up. She has lovely pointy ears facing into the breeze.

VizslaMomma I like the front attach harness - ie the one that attaches on the dog's chest. It is a training tool - not a good idea to leave it on all the time or when the dog is off for a run, just for when you're walking on lead. A harness that attaches behind and between a dog's sholder blades - is akin to a sled dog harness and encourages pulling. I'm not fond of the choke chains - it took two years plus to get my dog to like going for a walk after I ditched that item, and another couple of years before she started looking forward to walks - we use only a flat collar now. But I'd consider a martingale collar with a limited slip chain - if nothing else - it helps prevent escape if the dog decides to pull backwards away from you - my dog never figured out she could escape doing that, she always pulled facing away from me. This is an example of the front attach harness. It's not the only one available but I did use this one. http://www.softouchconcepts.com/ This is an example of a martingale collar. Some have a chain as the restricting loop and some don't. The amount the whole collar can reduce - is limited by the loop which limits the chance of the dog being strangled by it. Still not the best thing for the dog to run around in when you're not training or walking on lead. http://www.blackdog.net.au/index.php?route=product/product&path=61&product_id=84 blackdog also sell front attach harnesses with a front and rear attach point for double lead (no pull) training.

Maybe that's what the symbol should look like - one dog silhouette or many dog sillouette? Or maybe a small ball and a big ball?

I'm not totally familiar with vic law but this isn't how it goes in SA. If the dogs are on their own property and they attack a trespasser or burglar or someone with no lawful excuse to be there (ie not the police or a meter reader), then the dogs have done "nothing wrong". But if you invite someone onto your property, eg have some mates over for a barbecue and your dog attacks one of them and they want to have your dogs declared dangerous or PTS - they can ask council to do that. Same if your dog attacks a policeman on your property. So if your dog attacks you, you can choose to do nothing about it, but if your dog attacks someone else - it can be a different story.

I've been told if it's an ongoing problem - it's best to send an email or call during working hours and then they can schedule someone to go look. Our rangers are quite elusive too.

Snook - "the council" usually means one idiot (or a few) in the council who doesn't know the rules or doesn't care. It's not too hard to escalate the problem to people who can really do something about it (make the idiot care). I usually email my ward reps and they email the council CEO but I also have my council's CEO's email address. What you're describing is not appropriate management by the council (idiots), and it's dangerous. If you make that really clear to your ward reps, then council has liability next time there is a problem because they have been told in writing. Quite a few things I email my reps about - they're appalled that whatever happened. But they have no idea if we don't tell them because the people who don't give an Eff aren't going to tell them. The owner of the dog needs to fix the fences or give up the dog - which would be sad but how much sadder is it if that dog tears another dog or child to pieces or causes a car accident by running on the road. In the 1970s it used to be ok to let packs of dogs roam and it was just too bad if one got hit by a car or killed another dog or bit a child. But times have changed.

choosing a breed and a breeder... it might help if you go to some All breed dog shows and meet the breeders and show people there. Make sure you check they've got plenty of time to chat and not about to have their turn in the show ring (they could be all stressed out then). That way you find breeders in your area, you get to meet them and their dogs and they get to meet you. You find out who the puppy farmers are (have loads of bitches and 10s or 100s of litters a year...), and who among the not-puppy farmers are planning a litter soon and whether or not you'd be a good fit. Treat it as a bit of a social get to know you kind of thing. Get schmoozed by lots of gorgeous dogs and get an idea of what is available in your area and whether the breeders think one of their puppies would be suitable for your home. Don't expect to find the right breeder or puppy the first time you go. Think of it as a multi step project where you might have to go to a few shows and then a few breed club events to find the right fit for you. You also want to check for genetic problems with the breed - find out which ones are preventable and get to see any DNA tests or get promises in writing. However once you get a puppy home and then find it has genetic preventable problems - it might be hard to give it back knowing its fate is almost certainly PTS. But that's a worst case scenario. Get any promises that are important to you - in writing. Be aware it can take up to a year for the right puppies to happen (finding suitable partners, waiting for the bitch to come in season, being pregnant, puppies growing up to at least 8 weeks old - before you get one). DogsWest should have a list of what shows are on in your area. Or you could skip all that and find a puppy on petrescue.com.au and get the info you need (and they need) from the dog's foster family. And you take your chances on genetics.

In SA they don't have to get out for the council to do something - all they have to do is scare people (and the ranger). Getting out is another level. The SA state law says a dog is not allowed to harass (anything) whether or not any injury is caused to the harassed being. I cannot figure out the vic laws. Obviously if these dogs looked like pitbulls they would be locked up in the council pound whether or not they did anything wrong, but if they don't look like pitbulls then they have to kill someone first? I have a lot of problems with ignorant or unwilling staff answering the phone at our local council. I had a scare the other night - just after 6 on a Friday of course - the local footy club is renovating the kitchen and chucking stuff off the balcony into a giant skip - with a fair bit of the trash landing outside the skip. Some of it looked like vinyl flooring - the sort that has asbestos attached... I ring the council after hours and the lady (who knows and recognises me - sigh) says she doesn't have anyone to send out. So I get home and send an email with a photo - to the CEO of the council and my ward reps and the local residents association CEO and the EPA investigator... And tell them what happened. I don't know it's asbestos - CEO said the clubrooms had been tested so he was happy it was all ok - and a builder friend of mine who also uses that park (to walk our dogs), had a look and said the grey stuff was glue. So I'm much more reassured than when I rang and the woman fobbed me off. CEO did send a ranger out on the Saturday to inspect, and get the club to clean up the mess outside the skip. Tho after the football game they had on Sunday - OMG more boys' party mess. CEO also told me that the lady who answers the after hours number had not followed correct protocol. I don't know what that means but apparently "having nobody to send" is not an excuse to make us wait 2 days till Monday on a potential life threatening pollution scare. I've often had dumb fob you off answers from the reception / phone answering people at council. I guess it makes their life easier until they get someone like me :S

My dog is completely different at home, than she is outside the home. I don't have people over much, and I'm really careful about what opportunity she has to interact. She's cattle dog x and they are notorious for being unfriendly with strangers and nipping. Barking and scolding - leads to nipping. So if this had been me. 1. dog would not have been where she could get to the tradesperson. 2. barking is a sign of a dog trying to get control of situation - which the tradie ignored. And your Mum ignored instead of asking the tradesman to keep still while she removed the dog. I call this kind of situation a "Clustr Fsk" where "little" things going wrong - together lead to a major stuff up. With my dog - I've had her since 10 weeks old puppy - so I can't blame any bad treatment she might have had before I got her. I just have to deal with what she's telling me and prevent it as much as possible. And most of it is understandable and explainable - she did this because of ... but not always predictable - because she doesn't react the same way to similar situations every time. Which also makes it hard to train her to be more relaxed about these kinds of situations.

to go with above requirement - I was going to suggest poodle - and they don't shed everywhere, but you do have to get them clipped every 6 to 8 weeks which can be expensive depending how big the poodle ends up. Might as well get a dog with a double coat that sheds between seasons, if this is what you want. I can't think of any dog that would enjoy this and be one that will be really obedient and listen to your commands... And leaving it mostly in the shed and back yard won't help it be good with strangers either. In fact this has a huge correlation to serious dog bites. Ie a dog that is mostly a garden ornament and not part of the family in the family home, is more likely to be a biter (in stressful situations) too. It's potentially the worst thing you could do if you're planning to have your dog live with your children too. http://blog.smartanimaltraining.com/2013/12/11/new-study-sheds-light-on-serious-to-fatal-dog-bites/