Mrs Rusty Bucket

hmm, metho after shaving might stop infections getting into freshly shaven skin. It would probably sting a lot too.

Erm... there was an episode of the checkout that got into anti chafing products for triathletes... apparently there are different prices depending whether it's for "men" or for "women"... http://triathlon.competitor.com/2013/10/gear-tech/four-anti-chafe-products-for-triathletes_88276 Mostly I wear bike pants / knee length lycra... Not sure how you'd get that on a dog. John Bertrand (skipper of Aus II) when he was training for a dinghy sailing championship - used metho to harden up his skin... those were the days...

second rapigel... wish it wasn't quite so cold going on tho.

I never forget the first time I saw one of those gadgets they use for taking a temperature these days. I had broken my nose and had to wait around in emergency for about 8 hours to get xrays and then another two or three to see a doctor. I finally got put on a bed that had no spot light and half the other stuff around it was broken... so a doctor could look at me and explain my nose was broken (I'd head butt a hockey ball and now stuff was clicking in there)... And this strange guy - not wearing any kind of uniform or label - comes at me with a pointy device - not unlike a microchip scanner and reaches for my (very sore) head. RUDE I WAS!!! WHAT ARE YOU DOING - DON'T COME NEAR ME... Not very surprised by your dog's reaction really... but now that it's happened, she's learned something you might not want repeated, hence suggesting training is a good idea.

I'm wondering if the magistrate would have felt the same way about no jail time if it had been his dog or his child's dog... He's let the nut job go free. Effectively saying its ok to poison dogs. ARGH.

based on what my dog is doing at the moment... she's some sort of herding dog mix mostly cattle dog and a very fast learner... So your dog was rightfully upset by some strange woman coming at her with a novel (scary) device... And then you ask for time to sort your dog out, but lady does not listen and repeats her upsetting action - and if you're like me - you and the dog are now upset... Dog scolds rude woman, tells her to back off. This is where it gets really really tricky for me and my dog. Because if I'd gotten in and scolded woman before my dog could - my dog would join in and help with the scolding... so it doesn't really help. The best I can do is block the rude woman (or rude approaching dog) and encourage my dog to think about other things - ie ask her for a whole bunch of tricks she knows well and knows gets her food or something. But reward with ear rubs and praise - because otherwise I risk pairing (back chaining) the scolding behaviour with the tricks and the food. Ie dog works out that their cue for me to give them food is to act grumpy then do trickts. Not good. The others are right - if you don't work out how to get your dog on a more acceptable path - it can escalate. Ie dog works out to get what it wants (food or space) it acts scary-grumpy and it gets what it wants. And it's worse if the dog thinks it is helping (protect) you. For my evil hound - timing is everything. If I get it wrong - she's training me - not the other way round. So at the moment I'm working very hard to prevent unhappy encounters with dogs or people, and I give her loads of "good dog" praise for remaining calm and being polite (no matter what else is going on). And sometimes I just have to avoid the encounter all together - she will never get to greet the lawnmower man again. I can't train him and she finds him WAAAYYY too exciting and there's not enough room to work distance.

Oh it's so flawed. The idea is nice tho. But what's to stop the average g tree scammer from borrowing someone else's number - I've heard that already happens with microchip numbers. And suppose a would be puppy buyer is looking at a nice puppy ad with the dogs nsw membership number and they ring up dogs nsw to confirm that the number matches the details on the ad - ie that the number belongs to someone who is a registered breeder of that breed and the parent dogs and puppies are registered... I tried to get info on a prefix for a poodle breeder one time - and dogs sa would not confirm or deny that it was a valid prefix with a current member for "privacy reasons" so I can't see how it does anyone any good if they don't have a process in place for puppy buyers to verify the number and breeder details with dogs nsw if they want to. And then you'd have to get - first - agreement for some breeder details to be shared ie not private - between dogs nsw and the breeders... I think dogs NSW imposing such a request without written agreement from every member breeder who wants to advertise a dog - that some of their details are not private any more. And it could also be a restraint of trade. Just guessing - I'm not a lawyer.

An internet friend from another forum reported that her family golden stopped walking - back legs stopped working and it was panic stations... They couldn't find what was wrong (xrays and all) so they didn't opt for surgery but wait and see and over a period of a few months the legs got better. Completely tedious but better than making things worse by operating. Another friend (from the park) has had the same problem with her shar pei from a dodgy breeder... he just lost enthusiasm for walks and went from running around the park to dragging along miserable to not wanting to go at all... vet checks - couldn't find anything... we're not in a tick area... and now he's getting better on anti inflams and stuff. Phew. Sometimes it's better to rest up, and wait and see. Sometimes an early symptom of paralysis ticks is dog can't bark properly - so if you have bark on cue, and the dog can't - then all over tick check and vet is a good idea.

If my dog is on lead with me, and she is attacked by a small dog and the little dog is actually biting - and I can't catch it to stop it, and my dog helps, I'm going to let her. If the dog is only barking and keeps its distance - I expect my dog to ignore it. But my dog has had enough bad experiences being chomped by little dogs - it's not right to expect her to put up with that without defending herself.

N@alie I hope that Steve can help. Make sure you have a list (or video even) of what you've got and what you'd like to have regards your dog's behaviour and keep Steve on focus. For my dog when she gets a bit upset about me leaving - I play the I forgot something game. Actually - that's just naturally me but I find it works with my dog and some others... You need to start this game when you are going to be home (not at work)... and you get all your stuff to go out, and then you forget something and go back in. I also pair getting all my stuff to go out - with giving my dog a treat that she likes. Tho when I first started going out and actually leaving her - the treat would be untouched until I got home and then she would race to where I put it (crate or dinner bowl) and demolish it. I know she's better because now when she sees me getting my bag and keys - she reminds me to get her treat and it's gone before I get to the car... So I would not be out very long - like seconds the first few times you play the game... You could also time how long it takes for your dog to start yelling when you do go out so you know what the threshold is... (she just fetched me the bath mat I roll her dinner kibble in to slow her down eating - cos it's quieter than a bob a lot in a wire crate) Also the first thing I do with the dog when I've been out - is go from the front door, straight out to the back yard because there is no dog door, and act boring - waiting for her to go to the toilet. I don't do this when I'm going through the process of "I forgot something"... but I do it every time I come home from being out a while. I don't wind her up with greetings when I return. Much fun as that is - it can make leaving a bit hard. I think my sep anx is worse than her's.

local road refresher supplier often does deals for multiples http://sprout.net.au/big-sale/road-refresher-dog-bowls.html

Hi Cassie when I make the chicken and rice mix - I put the chicken in with the rice and cook them together - that might make the rice more appealing. Tho my dog is not that fussy. She will eat week old bread that has been out in the weather as slug and cut worm bait (you still have to catch and destroy the beasties but they're easier to find if they're all over a bit of bread)...

Hi SAS Links are working fine this morning. Maybe the server was down when I tried yesterday. Nothing wrong at my end, pdfs normally load fine.

I love ACDs... Yes they can be very protective - I do like that about them. they can also be silly about machines like lawnmowers, vacuum cleaners, chain saws, electric screw drivers and moving things like bikes, cars, runners... It's really really important if one is coming after you, stand still and wait, and watch out the corner of your eye not direct eye contact. If you run, an ACD will grab you by the ankle and some do not let go. And if you keep trying to run, they will start to shake... if you stand still - there's a good chance it will let go and wait for the boss to catch up and say... they are notorious for letting burglars in with a happy smile and then not allowing the bad guys to leave (have heard the same story about Siamese cats...). I've always allowed ones that I meet for the first time to approach in their own time. If you try to go after them for a pat - some of them take very badly to this. they are also the smartest dogs I've ever met. Not in the way of border collies who (mostly) only want to please and get another job to do... More in the way of a dingo - how can I get what I want... Mine is brilliant at training me. But if I know what she wants in the moment, she will work very hard for it and she's super quick at learning new things. My current dog when she was a puppy would roll over for every dog and person. She's had a couple of bad experiences being stomped on by rude curly coat poodle crosses, and now she will scold a rude dog. Something I'm working on preventing and teaching more acceptable behaviours... but it's hard with so many of those running loose... She is most excellent door to door sales guy repellent. And the one I lived with prior to her, was a most excellent car thief repellent... one time his owner left her wallet on the dash of the car... came back and the door was wide open, the dog who had been sleeping on the pedals was in the drivers seat - with a big grin on his face. And the wallet was where she left it... I always knocked to let him know I was getting in the car before I opened the door. He'd go off, and then go oh it's you... and be ok. We unfortunately accidentally trained him to go off at pedestrians and bicycles outside the car which made for interesting times when I got pulled over for a speeding ticket. I had to tie him up inside the car and then get out to deal with the policeman... So yes, a cattle dog can be a scary dog. They're also scary smart. They do shed a lot of hair too. They are also the best fun to be around.

You might also find this section interesting. http://www.austlii.edu.au/au/legis/nsw/consol_act/caa1998174/s16.html'>http://www.austlii.edu.au/au/legis/nsw/consol_act/caa1998174/s16.html The act in full is indexed here. http://www.austlii.edu.au/au/legis/nsw/consol_act/caa1998174/

SAS I can't get the great dane rescue website to display - not even the home page. tried .org. too but that didn't work either Tried two different browsers... and obviously my internet is working or I couldn't post this.

Is there a sticky thread for Bloat... these are helpful net refs - mostly provided to me by an owner of Newfoundlands Bloat chart - save, print out and stick to your fridge... http://www.bmd.org/bmdcr/bloat_chart.pdf Accupressure point for bloat relief http://www.bluefrontiers.us/bloat_accupress.html Accupressure point for bloat relief (similar to above - same pictures etc) http://www.iwane.org/acp_point_v2.htm general article on bloat including list of at risk breeds http://www.globalspan.net/bloat.htm Article speculating on causes of bloat and stomach twists (torsion) http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/preventing-bloat-naturally/ GSD of QLD club page on Bloat http://www.gsdcqld.org.au/GSDV.GSD.htm

I heard of someone being fined in Darwin for leaving a dog tied up. So I guess it's not ok there. Not sure about other places. Pretty sure in SA and NSW - dog has to be under effective control of a "responsible person" (over 16 and capable of controlling the dog) and in public spaces - eg footpaths - has to be on lead. In SA the lead must be 2m or less, not an extendable lead which dogs use to strangle themselves and wrap around peoples legs and rip holes in them. In NSW it says "adequate", I don't think stretchy leads qualify as "adequate". http://www.austlii.edu.au/au/legis/nsw/consol_act/caa1998174/s13.html

"companion animal" is also what most Australian states use to name their dog laws... eg "companion animal management act"... and another one for breeding (if you live in the east).

Wow Looks like a new series called "animal people" - I've put the feed into my podcast downloader...

relationship building... feeding as much as possible by hand, ie as long as the dog isn't likely to bite the hand... hand feeding... Other relationship building games... collar grab... depending on the dog, you might be starting by reaching slowly towards the collar and making very slow progress across many sessions - towards the actually touching then grabbing the collar, with treats for each move in the right direction... eventually want to be rewarding for dog throwing their collar/neck into your hand... its yer choice games - this is only ok if hand feeding is ok otherwise - I guess you could use treats on the ground and a small saucepan or plastic jug to cover them up.... But might not work if the dog is freaked out by sudden movement. Many get over this if they are in an environment they feel is safe and the food is yummy enough and they're hungry enough ie play games before dinner. Hide and seek game on the floor - make self into a ball and squeak - reward dog for investigating... can progressively get more excited about "being found". My dog will play this game for dirty Kleenex - go figure. Lots of massage and brushing and body inspecting games... starting like the collar grab, very slowly. Reward for dog holding position, then allowing touch then actually moving into touch etc, do the things dogs like - but leave plenty of room for the dog to leave if it needs, so ear rubs, butt (above the tail) rubs, chest rubs, and belly rubs if dog will allow... I guess you kind of have to guage what the dog will cope with and when... if it's really terrified, and it's safe to do so (a big space) - dad might sit on the floor (less threatening), looking away or not making direct eye contact... and mum might reward dog for investigating or moving around the room while dad is there... just be really careful to only reward calm behaviour with food. Anything that is really undesirable like over the top barking or aggression, reward any break in this with a reduction of the pressure but if the dog is over the top barking - the trigger is too close to train or reward a better behavoir - so dad might have to sit in the next room... But a behaviourist might be best to walk through all the steps. I heard a story about a dog I could hear barking frantically from a house that was across the road from the park where I was - this dog the owners have decided "needs to toughen up" - so they've locked it in their shed... WTF - it's a Dachshund FFS - as if that will help a frightened dog or puppy. Tempting to ask the RSPCA to drop some educational stuff in their letter box or have a chat.

Frosty dug through the old soft sided crate bottom, and the metal one is just too noisy for the kong wobbler, so I've been putting her kibble ration rolled up in an old bath mat like a swiss roll of kibble... She's kind of worked out if she picks up the bath mat and shakes it, all the kibble falls out... well goes everywhere, some of which she can't reach without help... I know they say use high value treats but she tends to go TAR if the stuff is took good (chicken yiros?). She will work very hard for kibble... and roo jerky... and promite on toast... actually sometimes goes TAR for toast. I've yet to figure out (apart from her going TAR) which food is the best food. It's all so good. If I give her a choice, she just starts with what's closest... even if I take the good stuff away after choosing the kibble cos it was closer...

I think it would take at least a month for the dog to adjust to its new surroundings. Training might not help while it is still working itself into a state of emotional overload with little things. This is when drugs are usually prescribed, but time, patientce, gentle predictable handling, and rewarding good behaviour (tiny weeny improvements need to be marked and rewarded as often as possible) might also help. I think having a safe place for the dog to be would be good. Like a box or a crate with covered sides or an igloo type thing. And then loads and loads of relationship building games.

has anyone got a link to tales of Stan the Greyhound? My dog has learned to tell fibs. She does a play bow and invites play when she's on lead in the hopes that I will let her off lead, but if I do - she goes foraging for food in the playground and completely ignores the dog that thought it was going to get a fun doggy game of chasey. Other thing she does when she wants attention is bring an ugg boot or shoe and poke me with it. If I'm too absorbed in the computer... she takes that as permission to shred the item... I can't blame anyone but me for that. And I've yet to get her to understand that I need two shoes to take her for a walk. Not just one (slightly shredded) ugg boot.

Nice, but I'm not bringing my possible to be mistook for pitbull or pitbull cross to Vic...