Mrs Rusty Bucket

How to upset a male boss Kangaroo... cough, sort of deep grunty air cough... and wait... if not got their attention - try again... if you do get their attention, best to have a tree (I used a treadley) to duck behind...

One of these? http://www.tethertug.com/

My dog stays inside my house when I'm out (shopping for her dinner etc). But if I know I'm going out, I make sure I take her for a walk which involves smells and sights she doesn't normally have access to, or I do a training session to engage her brain and wear her out. Ie learning new tricks burns a lot of brain energy and a dog sleeps well after that instead of going exploring hopefully. For your dog I'd want to prevent the opportunity but also take the joy out of visiting the neighbours. Ie They need to put her in a crate and ignore her until you come and get her. And did I say training? Trick training, herding training, agility training, dances with dogs / fancy heelwork training - anything like this for a smart dog is essential. Or they will find their own entertainment. Maybe a small group of indian runner ducks she can round up? Tho the ducks will probably nick off too. Beware of just exercising her more. You will end up with a super fit bored dog. You have to engage her brain.

This is good - you got information from people you knew and trusted who were not the breeder. And you met some of the other dogs they had bred. I've seen people posting in here - horror stories of the pup they got this way. Not so much with yorkies. But with a certain breed of "rare blue" that don't meet the breed standard but still register with ANKC and advertise here. So I guess we need more information before we can provide reliable advice. It's up to the Opening Poster to decide if they have enough information. Maybe ringing a local yorkie breeder or club if there is one, and asking an opinion? We don't have enough information about this breeder to know if they are reputable or not. There is another ongoing thread in here - about a breeder who may or may not have been listed with DOL (probably not by the tone of it), that looks like the breeder is saying "I told you the puppy was sick, you took it anyway - no refund". Really? So I can't predict which way this one would go but at 5000km distant - it's really hard to fix.

And the breeder has picked the sick puppy with only one testicle for you. Not good. Personally, if it's not a rescue - I want to meet the bitch that's having the puppies, and the breeder, and have them pick the puppy that is maybe not the "prettiest" but is healthy and has all the right bits in the right places and is friendly with me. Very hard to do that from 5000km away.

Mostly lure coursing runs are done one dog at a time. Sometimes in straight line lure coursing - two dogs who live together might run together but mostly they go separately. It is if you try to get a competition level performance the first time you try. But it gets broken down into tiny pieces that any dog with a willing trainer can achieve eventually. And I get bored with heel sit heel sit heel sit... bored bored bored - and I think the dog does too - hence the nicking off... Ie if the dog is very excited by what you're doing - and you've practiced gradually introducing distractions... then you and your dog can run a course without nicking off or go sniffing. But it doesn't happen instantly. Hence the foundation training. Eg a fantastic stay no matter what, and a fantastic release to you... ie crate games teaches this.

Some bitches must think so and left to their own devices will have a litter with multiple fathers ie each puppy can have a different father to its siblings.

You might need some anti inflammatory to go with the neck... (paracetamol / aspirin or whatever stash you have ) Or rapigel? for both of you? As long as there's no open wound - pretty sure that stuff stings.

Are we still talking about the SA regs?

Hmm real estate office with dogs. I wonder if they encourage landlords to allow tenants to have pets. That's what I'd like - residential rental - not allowed to exclude tenant based on if they have pets. And they don't have to disclose. They do have to pay for any damage - as usual. As for pets in the office, I would like it to be permitted. My hair dresser says I can't bring my dog with me because of some health regulations. I don't understand how hair dressing and dogs are incompatible. One day I will see if I can find said health regulations. If she said - no dog I'm allergic or my customers are allergic - I'd be fine with that. But health reg? I'm more likely to get some horrible disease from humans ie when she cut my hair and she had a nose dripping sneezing cold at the same time - guess what? I got a cold too. Not happy.

He's lucky you didn't get the wd40 out to get the toes out... I would have tried olive oil... That's if my brain didn't get turned to mush by the screaming. When my dog injures herself - she comes in, pretends like nothing happened and the only sign I get of it - is she tries to amputate the offending bit with her teeth. urk.

hi thistle Good luck with your training. Some dogs are definitely empaths - they pick up on your feelings. But you can fake happy and pleased to see everybody and your dog will fall for that. At least long enough for you to make a quick get away. Last resort trick - chuck kibble in the face of the dog you don't want to greet - the super friendly jump all over dog - but that dog will remember you next time... Ie it only works to allow an escape and then you can't return. However - a dog with it's head down sniffing for food is giving "calming signals" to your dog. I have also chucked kibble on the ground to stop my dog doing the stiff eye stare challenge - head down looks like calming signals to the other dog. But she back chains that. The things my dog will do for food. Every time she does something I don't want I have to think - how am I rewarding that. A dog that has been attacked or bullied - has good reason to be scared of other dogs - so there's no reason to rush into greetings. That's why I'm not sure the through the fence thing will work but working at a distance from the fence can be great. Just beware of the pea brains who let their dog go to the dog park gate from the outside - off leash. PS my dog has never lost a dog fight or been seriously injured in one. She's never started one either. She's much more about noise and bluff and escape. Hence me suspecting the back chaining thing more than the fear thing.

yup. this would include fenced dog parks - including the outsides of them. At least with an unfenced one - if you take your dog across a road and the other dog follows you... the owners start to get a clue. PS I stopped reading the reactive dogs thread and posting in it, because the more anxious I was about how she might react to new dogs... the worse she was. Ie reading that thread made us both worse. We're heaps better than we used to be. Avoiding my brother's dog and his training methods also helps. Nobody in the city is into "letting the dogs sort it out" any more.

Hi Snook It's possible that initially the timing of my treat was wrong. But Frosty is insanely good at back chaining. I get a lot further with no treats, just pats and praise. Treats can work with some dogs. Just doesn't work with my evil hound. And people need to be aware that some dogs can "fake" fierce to get treats. I'm not sure "fake" is the right word for it. She will be fierce to get treats if that has worked for her in the past. My mistake. That would be nice but where I live it can happen anywhere. The footpaths where dogs are supposed to be on lead it happens. It happens at the park too. I had to leave the park tonight because two dogs were very persistent at getting in our face. Maybe the owners thought she'd be ok because she was with a lot of other dogs - tho she was on lead most of the time. But they didn't ask. And the other dogs were not ok with their dog approaching uninvited at speed either - there was a whole pack of little dogs herding off the big rude dog. And me holding mine back. And I definitely can't yell at the owner to call their dog back. In my experience if they're stupid enough to let their dog approach mine on lead without asking - then they're not going to have any kind of recall either. And my dog will take my yelling as something to help with and she will tell the dog to rack off too... and if it's a bit slow on the uptake (and jumping on her) she nips it so it hurts... I can't say she's doing it out of fear. So it's not the same situation as Justice. And possibly not the same as Thistle Dog.

Thistle the dog... There is this thing about dog fences... I've seen two dogs having a full on go at each other - teeth bared, gnashing, growling, fence slamming... only to find - just 2m that way - the fence ends and there was no barrier at all. And the behaviour of the two dogs towards each other where there was no fence. COMPLETELY DIFFERENT. Ie polite apologies and careful sniffing then ignoring... WTF? So allowing your dog to greet another dog through a fence may not do anything useful. Some things that help. 1. What I do. Seriously - if I yell at someone to keep their dog away - my dog wants to help. So I have to be all polite and smiles and do my best to avoid but sometimes - the problem dog sneaks up on us and my dog goes over the top (TAR - Too Aroused to Respond) (yeah I know not a proper acronym). And all I can do is try to get her attention on me and wait for the owner who is almost always a bit thick - because my dog was getting along fine with those other dogs there... but not the new one... hello? Pack ok - not strangers. I usually get my dog slightly off her front feet so she can't lunge at the other dog. Ie the less of the unwanted behaviour she can manage the better. 2. Really short greetings with under control (on lead) new dogs, ie say hello, lets go... You can do this more than once with the same dog but don't give either long enough to say something the other one thinks is rude. 3. Having a cue word for "friend". So mine is "who dat dere?" and if I say that it puts my dog in a very happy frame of mind whether we get to say hello or not. With a new dog - there is hardly any chance of a bad reaction from my dog if I've used this cue. I don't like to use it with a dog that I know will trigger her, or one that is off lead - because if that dog gets in her face - it can still go pear shaped and I damage my cue. But it's great for stopping her from reacting to dogs over there. 4. frustration and back chaining - ie no food allowed. One of the things my dog loves best is food and hence loves foraging at the park. This can be extremely bad for her health - because loads of things that dogs must not eat get dropped in the school playground or dumped out of cars which have finished with their chicken take away. So my dog will fake wanting to greet and play with another dog - in order to get off lead. It used to work and she'd go foraging (not playing - argh). These days I don't let her off lead - which leads to frustration. I used to try to get her attention back with food. That did not end well either. Ie she'd get frustrated, bark and lunge cos she wanted to get off lead... I'd try food, she'd stop barking and lunging and eat, but she'd work out, bark and lunge - get food. OOPS. The brainier the dog the worse and more complicated this "back chaining" can be. It's impossible to say how many dogs and people you should look for to help retrain your dog. It all depends on your dog's threshold. Which is easier to manage with distance. The more people around - the more likely there will be one who doesn't give a stuff about leash laws or checking first to see if it's ok to let their dog greet yours. Hence you'd be better off working at the edge of a dog training club or competition where all the dogs are on lead or under control.

Probably every single one that has a nice solid dog proof fence around it. A scared dog needs to be able to escape...

Yes it depends on whether the vet is more interested in animal welfare or wallet welfare... Both kinds of vets are out there.

I agree this ought to be enough. But we don't have that in place in SA yet.

I dunno. How many past their breeding prime fall pregnant? How many way too young fall pregnant? And how many kept in filthy conditions manage to fall pregnant. Strays seem to have no problem...

Frosty has a lovely reflective tape collar I got from cheap as chips... and erm... she busted out of it at agility training (the only time she wears it). She was so desperate to greet a friend... pop... gets what she wants. It's still functional - she just sort of pulled the buckle open. obviously not that functional as a stop the dog device tho.

That might help with stuff that appears on Oscar's law website on a regular basis... But how do you know when 4 weeks prior to a mating cycle is? They're not that predictable are they?

Let me see - carcinogenic... There's any char-grilled steak - you know with char on it - carcinogenic Most peanut paste has carcinogens in it. And don't go near a car, or a truck, or a camp fire... You have to make a decision about what the worst risk is...

Does being able to detect BBQ at 500m count?

That's why I was thinking to put crazy enforceable ones on.

No. I think they're already known about but with the current rules - the RSPCA can't do anything about it. RSPCA can remove dogs that are dying but the ones that are just filthy - tend to stay... And the puppy mill doesn't get shut down until there have been multiple repeat offences. Dogs don't deserve that. And puppy buyers need to know where their puppies are coming from - and not to reward people like that with money. I think there are a couple of places in Vic that would have 300+ dogs in their breeding program. I'm not sure about the ones near Adelaide. I've seen pictures of what they do - and it's not how I think a companion animal should be bred. Ie it's not a very companionable environment.