Mrs Rusty Bucket

It is good to be wary - but DOL listed breeders are not like Gumtree listings. Ie they actually get checked here - and if someone else spots a fake or scammer on DOL - they get removed - if they ever managed to get listed in the first place. Breeders to get listed on their ANKC breed club website - usually have to pay a fee - and it can be harder to keep updated. Here I think it's free for a standard ad and easy for a breeder to keep it up to date - tho as you have probably found already - some don't keep basics like their email and phone numbers up to date. Breeders are humans and puppies are fragile - so sometimes things go wrong and they can't give you a puppy like they promised. So now I would recommend - be patient, and keep in touch with the breeders. If you want to know more about them - you could try asking the ANKC affiliate in the state they are in, or look for state specific breed club and ask them. Unfortunately it is still possible for bulk puppy breeders ie people with many many bitches to be registered with ANKC. I get worried that those breeders are not giving their puppies enough people contact or dog socialisation and some don't do health checks for preventable diseases. So I recommend what TSD said - that you try to meet the breeder and their dogs ahead of time - ideally somewhere neutral like a breed social event or show and then visit their place - to see what sort of environment the puppies will be brought up in and whether that suits you.

If you're "correcting" - you're too late really. Ideally you want to be preventing the opportunity while you train the dog to behave more appropriately and reliably around H. Hopefully a behavourist or trainer will help with training plans. You need someone who can train you how to train the dog. And what ever methods they suggest - they need to be methods you'd be comfortable using - otherwise the exercise is pointless. The best science around these days suggests using aversives (things your dog doesn't like) to try to reduce an unwanted behaviour - is not the best method to train a reliable behaviour. Positive reinforcement - delivering something your dog does like for a behaviour you do want is the best method. My dog thinks not getting a treat for that is aversive and says so - ie there is grey in the middle of what is "no reward" and what is aversive. http://www.journalvetbehavior.com/article/S1558-7878(17)30035-7/abstract Once you have your dog trained to be polite around your H and stay out of the way, then he can run free and unsupervised. What you're aiming for is for him to make good choices of his own accord with no commands (cues) required (its yer choice games - advanced version) so you don't have to get out there and "correct" him. It can be done.

I'd be tempted to catch it with tongs or a long handled hoe and dispatch it quickly... Sigh. Someone on the radio was talking about a mice trap they made out of a deep bucket and a bait bottle that they climb onto and then it rolls and drops them in the bucket - she caught 35 mice in one night. She did not mention how she dispatched them either.

funny how "go sniff" doesn't work very well when you've got a bag of roast chicken in your pocket...

In my mind - this is unhealthy for the dog. To be allowed to roam out of sight completely unsupervised... Unless all your boundary fences are perfectly dog proof. A lot of people on rural property shoot first and ask questions later. We lost a dog this way and (as best I knew - wasn't there - it was still on the right side of the fence but too close to the neighbour's sheep). My brother lost a dog because it decided to chase the neighbour's car. The more the dog is allowed to stalk the more it will stalk and the behaviour could get worse. If you have to confine it when you can't supervise until it is trained / behaving how you want... that would be for the best. A zap collar - I'm pretty sure that would give an anxious uncertain dog - a reason to blame H for the zap and increase the anxiety. Ie if you hurt a dog for being fearful - that's going to make it more fearful. If the dog would respond to cues given by your H - that would be helpful eg "drop, wait, come" etc. that way your H could give your dog a job to do that keeps it out of the way and safe. But if H doesn't want to help - or your dog continues to be frightened of him... you need to come up with a different plan.

NSW? chi x pom https://www.petrescue.com.au/listings/527194 schipperke https://www.petrescue.com.au/listings/533908 pug x https://www.petrescue.com.au/listings/539228

yes my first thought for someone who wants a beagle x cav - is to try to talk them into something else... ie find out what they need, what they think they like about what they asked for and what breeds often have that... along with a bit of explaining about genetics - not guaranteed the best of both worlds - any more than any child has the best of their parents' combined gene pool.

hopefully if it is not a life time normal behaviour for your dog - it will be easier to persuade your dog - it's not that much fun... and there are better things to do. That would be easier if you can get H to help but otherwise you're going to have to use him (H) as a distraction in your effort to train dog to greet more politely or just ignore H. Figure out what you want instead - that your dog cannot do at the same time as "stalking" and train that.

You think that would be right. But dogs are dogs and instructors are humans (ok my number 1 dog training instructor is my dog). I find with my dog she might chill out on lead when I'm talking to someone, but she may also decide to try to leave or greet someone over there (eg the lady who feeds her lots of chicken is irresistable or a level 11 out of 10 distraction) and when I'm talking to someone - it's hard to have focus enough to make sure my dog ignores the bigger distractions. It's very hard to train my dog to ignore a school child on the footpath on a speeding bike that goes by at speed close enough run over her tail. Fortunately my dog on lead so her interaction was limited to scolding the child. Child's parent - also on a bike but further away - said nothing but sheesh... should I expect my dog to sit quietly while some idiot runs over her tail or is it ok to bite the tyres. Some instructors would not see what their dogs are doing as a problem and some "pick their battles"... I've seen some good dog trainers let their dogs pull like freight trains on lead because it's not important to them that their dog has any self control on lead. But then they can go blast around an agility course and get a clear and fast round. I've had to look at some of the crap my dog does and pay attention to all the places she does it - not just the places where it's a problem... and then look at what I do that lets her think it's an ok behaviour. Some of it is left over from when I didn't know how to train this dog (nothing that had worked on previous dogs that I learnt at dog training clubs - worked with her) and I pick my battles...

stalking and pouncing (biting or not) is a pretty natural behaviour for a dog - especially one that is close to the original kinds of dog that hunted to feed themselves. It can be a pre-cursor to play, or a fight, or bringing down prey... My dog left to her own devices stalks and herds birds and cats out of the yard and she will sometimes stalk other dogs at the park... or go into stalk mode when she sees another dog when we're out walking. Personally - it's causing us some problems at the park so I've decided I need to train her she can only do that with "permission" so I am taking her into the back yard and down to the back fence on lead so she can't stalk and charge any birds that might be there. I also make her sit and show some self control at the door before we go out. Clearly stalking your H is not ok with your H... and probably the only way you're going to get through to your dog about that - is to make sure he is on lead or otherwise under control when your H is around until he learns leave H alone. Will be up to you to play a variation of "its yer choice" with contact with your H as the reward. Stalking and pouncing on your H is rewarding of itself to your dog - so you have to prevent that happening if you want your dog to stop thinking it's fun. I am also working my dog's recall and distance (from me) sit/drop/stands/stops as a way of interrupting and redirecting stalking. your dog wouldn't be a farm dog of some variety - the behaviour is really popular with them. But farm and hunting dogs are only allowed to herd and stalk with permission.

Lol - I think that's why some people go to training - cos their dogs are out of control... Personally I don't like my dog to greet another dog when they're both on lead unless they can both keep their leads loose. A dog on a tight lead forgets it has the retreat/flight option out of fight / flight /f reeze... A lot of fights or slanging matches (lots of growling) start this way. A dog that is too excited - doesn't matter why - can't keep its lead loose and is best avoided. The training club instructors ought to know about these things... but for years - letting dogs sort themselves out was considered ok. It's about as ok as letting my dog decide how much food she gets to eat (and what). Dogs are not always best at making decisions in their own best interests and with the rise of puppy farms and puppies being removed from their mums and litter mates at 6 weeks - they don't always learn dog body language and ettiquette before they are rehomed to people who also don't know about any of that stuff (or they would not have bought from a pet shop / puppy farm).

This floated by my FB feed today - even tho it's almost a year old. http://blog.k9pro.com.au/dog-etiquette-hes-friendly/ There's another one "He just wants to say Hi" http://suzanneclothier.com/he-just-wants-to-say-hi the point being - you do not need to let your dog say hello to every dog you meet - it's in both your best interests to be selective. Some big dogs play nice with smaller dogs but some are clutzes and will injure your dog accidentally. I don't think protecting your dog will cause it to be fearful... I used to think that people who picked their dogs up when they saw other dogs were silly but I've had a bit more (bad) experience now and I can't blame them. Sometimes I have a chat about it. And I might talk them through what a loose lead 2 second greeting might be like... cos my dog will helpfully pretend she has no legs (crawl) - which calms a little dog down usually even if they never get close enough to touch. And I'm fine with people picking up their (fear?) aggressive little dogs before they can attack mine - you know the ones that charge up to big dogs yelling their heads off and sometimes biting. Stopping that is a really good idea. However lots of owners just laugh. It's important that you do what you can to protect your dog, and that often means ignoring what other people say when it comes to forcing your dog to interact with other dogs friendly or not. You don't need to do that.

well spotted Panto. Someone asks for advice and then decides to do their own thing against the advice and then comes back and asks again like we've got some magic wand trick we're keeping secret. Dog training isn't difficult but you do have to learn how to do it and then do it.

mine likes to roll in dead fishy things but she's not interested in dead mammals or birds so far. (phew pyew)

Hi all http://www.abc.net.au/news/2017-05-30/increase-in-dog-poisonings-linked-to-rat-and-mouse-bait/8571850 During May, the University of Adelaide's Animal Health Centre at Roseworthy treated 19 dogs suffering with rat bat poisoning, including two that later died. Veterinary clinician Dr Peter Hutchison said there were just four cases in April. "Some of the animals are eating the mice and others are managing to get to the baits which are maybe hidden in the shed or hidden behind the fridge," he said. He said about 50 per cent of the cases at the health centre involved dogs eating poisoned rodents, not bait. Note - there has also been a case in Salisbury Park (park at the west end of Saints road - where Para Districts dog club meet) - of a man feeding rat sack to a JRT in the fenced off dog park. That dog went straight to the vet for the vomit treatment - hopefully ok.

for a first time dog owner... in the spirit of someone "telling you what to do"... http://tim.blog/2016/11/14/susan-garrett/ and video of how to play your first game. http://dogsthatlisten.com/tim/ It's your first dog - it is crucial you get someone who will coach you in how to become a good trainer for your dog. A dog is not like a car that you can send away for a tune up. A dog is always learning - and if you're not training it - it will be training you...

Sometimes I have to supervise my dog to make sure she goes when I let her out... especially if she's been on kibble for dinner and it's raining. dinner is usually 6:30pm and Last pitstops 10:30pm but not always. I don't usually get a puddle surprise - I get woken up with frantic persistent yiffing... at 4am.

When I first got my puppy - one of her first jobs - when she got a little bit older - was to clear cats out of my yard. Especially the ones that had fights right outside my bedroom window. She REALLY enjoyed this job - waaayyy too much... so she'd be trying to get me to let her out multiple times a night to "patrol"... ARGH... She also liked to bark at anyone I had staying over (interstate friends) in the same way as your dog barks at your house mates. I did a couple of things that helped with this. I had trained something called "collar grab" and I also taught her to bark on cue, and to be quiet on cue (easy after you've got bark on cue). Mostly all I really needed to do was put her on lead (in my bedroom), send her to her sleeping spot (her bed-tub) - still on lead and reward for quiet and calm. Being very careful not to reward for loud then quiet. If she growled - I'd just collar grab and pat her - calming pats; ears and long back strokes... And I didn't say anything, ie I modelled the behaviour I wanted her to do. You don't need to be a super brilliant actor to fool a dog - just slow your own breathing and movement down a bit... It's super important you take the lead on scary things - and protect him, not the other way about. Protect him from scary dogs and people out and about - make more space - prevent him from trying to protect you - unless you want him to (maybe have a cue for crazy barking). And pay attention to the questions KobiD asked. The answers will help your trainer. Hopefully the trainer you've got coming over will be able to help.

This is kikopup on loose leash walking... She's much more relaxed about her criteria... (playlist of videos) https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL7287C737FB745168 One of the rewards for loose lead is "go sniff"... The dog doesn't have to be near her leg unless she asks for that - you could have two cues eg "heel" for next to your leg and "with me" for loose lead (those aren't original to me). I use the word "yes" instead of the clicker or I just shove a treat in their mouth, and if I treat - it's next to my leg on the same side of the dog - if you treat in front or reach across your body - you risk your dog cutting in front of you and tripping you up (don't reward cutting in front). Maybe start with this one.

The life of a "retired stud dog" might be similar to a pound dog - depending on whether he was an inside house hold pet or outside in kennels with lots of other dogs.

you've only had him since Sunday... This article might explain what he's going through - just be patient and let him get used to you and your place... http://kdmathews.com/first-thing-getting-dog-shelter-learn-decompression/

@Perry's Mum The form has this email address on it: [email protected] and you've put [email protected] Do they both work?

OMG - I only knew of one person with that many Koolies - but he was so old - wasn't sure if he was still going... They were extremely well trained tho. Not sure about house trained. Probably not. Will they be available in SA - maybe we could put something on the agility pages? They're very popular for that.

So if Pavlov looms large on one shoulder (fear) then Skinner will shrink on the other (learning). So don't worry about training a behaviour. Just sit on the ground and feed treats continuously. I can hear Bob Bailey echos TSD great post . I'd mix in saying "yes" and the dog's name with the treats too. Just watched one of my favourite dog training coaches playing a game with her poodle - she was having trouble with touching him and then catching him... so the game was scatter treats (yummy ones) and then tell him to get the treats and then pat him as he's eating... both dog and coach enjoyed playing that game. And it was a really short game like about 10 scattered bits of something that looked like cheese - for as long as it took for the dog to eat them all (less than 10 seconds).

Maybe try using the word "yes" instead of the clicker and better treats - have five attempts at whatever you are trying to train and then have a play with him for at least a minute - and then maybe try again or just wait a few hours. Trick training is hard on a dog's brain, it tires them out and frustrates them - and you build up persistance in training - gradually - don't try to get him there all at once. If it's not fun for him - try something else. It is good to swap dogs too - a lot of dogs learn by seeing another dog do what you want them to do. My dog has taught a few to use the dog door and also that water is ok...at the beach.