Mrs Rusty Bucket

http://www.austlii.edu.au/au/legis/nsw/con...998174/s13.html The NSW companion animals act suggests that dogs in off lead parks are still supposed to be under "effective control". And the clincher is this - the fine print Here is section 16 http://www.austlii.edu.au/au/legis/nsw/con...998174/s16.html So an aggressive dog is fine in an off leash park - so long as it never attacks or harasses anything. If an attack happens, then the council should be called and the dog and owner reported just the same as if the attack occured outside the off leash park on a council footpath. So that's the legal side of it. I don't know why some of you are arguing it could be ok to have a dog attack on public land. That's just bonkers.

I don't seem to have this problem at the vets I go to. Both clinics are on busy roads too. Memorable quote from Vet this morning (I think yet another bloody clothes peg has stuffed her insides..), when I said she was still enthusastically chasing (imaginary) cats out of the back yard ie a couple of laps at high speed bouncing and jumping. he said something to the effect "If a dog didn't do that, it would be dead". Another guy came in with a dog - and kept it high up in his arms the whole time. My dog didn't even seem interested. By then she was very keen to leave. And another lady came in without a dog to buy two spray bottles of dog pong eliminator. I was rude enough to mention Shannon Lush recipe (1 litre spray bottle, 1 cup vinegar, 1 teaspoon lavender oil (not essence), fill with water - do not spray on marble.), cleaned up my doggy explosion with no after pong. You ought to be able to get refills for the spray bottles of pong eliminator.

My EH watches me use the kleenex on my nose, and then raids my pocket for the goodies. Not a great trick, more like an annoying habit. She does on command - roll over, shake hands, shake other hand touch nose on hand drop-sit-drop-sit-stand etc "what you say" (talking) and "tail worky" (wags tail). We're working on "on your mat" And she knows "bed time for dogs" but not like Pepe. Very cool. Lots of crowd pleasers. Mine does bow and commando crawling but not on command. She also does paddle paddle dance for treats (from other people), but again, not on command. And she does "greedy pig" sort of on command. It looks a lot like the "push ups" (which I thought was going to be bow-stand-bow-stand...) except she stands on her back legs, grabs my hand with the treat in it with her front paws and tries to get you to part with it. She also trades strapping tape and baseballs for treats, but not on command. Well when I see her with the contraband I can get her to give it up on command in exchange for extremely yummy treat. So long as I don't panic. I really should do more work with the clicker.

I'd pay him $5 for poop scooping... I went round my brother's yard with niece and nephew spotting for me, between us we found and picked up 30 piles of doggy goodness off the lawn. But ongoing willingness to clean up after dog is a good indicator of whether a kid is ready.

Find your local council rep (ward rep) and contact them. Find your local state rep and contact them. If your neighbour is willing, maybe register the dog in your name at your neighbour's address?

maybe doggy nappies would be the go? pull up pants. But yes, I'd go the crate(s). You don't need anything extra to drive you crazy. Good to see you round puggerup.

double post. Teach me to be impatient and click the button I knew was already clicked.

I use Glenside Veterinary on Greenhill Road near the corner of L'Estrange street, Glenside. There's a few vets that work there, the main guy is president of my dog club, and they have a boarding area, if you need eg your dog gets the runs the day before you're booked on holiday. But that's for regular customers. I get my annual vax there for my dog. They also have a hydrotherapy pool and treadmill if your dog needs rehab on muscle or joint injury. I haven't needed that yet - touch wood. I reckon you could get there in 10 minutes from Walkerville. Mum used to use one on Kensington Road. I could point it out but I couldn't tell you the name, its a big old two story house on the South side, at the Britannia round about end. I think. I also use the vets at Colonel Light Gardens Veterinary on the North side of Spring Bank Road. Ie follow king william road south, through several name changes and zig zags, and then turn left at the lawn mower shop on Springbank Road and stop, there it is. That's quite a bit futher south. Still closer to Walkerville than Elizabeth Park though. I don't think either are particularily cheap but the more often you go, the cheaper it seems to get. The drug prices kill me though no PBS for dogs.

So has anyone had experience where they've done a good running contact but the judge has missed it? I noticed in one of the training videos for running contacts, the trainer upped her standard for getting a click to two feet on the colour not just one. And most of the trainers only try for the back feet even with 2o2o - so the thing where the front feet clear the colour and only the back feet land on it (incidentally) might still be a problem. I just know with other sports, there are risky ways to do things and there are ways to make it easier to get the judge to make the right call. The contacts where the dog does a drop at the end of the colour is more obvious than the ones where they run through without slowing down. Or maybe it's just my crappy eyes/reflexes. And I thought the lid with food at the bottom of the ramp was silly. Um. I got into trouble for placing food on the ramp. which couldn't be worse than those that chuck treats into tunnels (my dog always knows when this has been done).

washing soda, usually in the laundry powder section of the supermarket. Except the last supermarket I checked (woolies?) only had powdery stuff not crystals. No good. It is highly alkaline, and one crystal was enough to make my dog give back the gladwrap sandwich she'd eaten. So you really don't want to give any more than absolutely necessary. I've read somewhere someone giving their dog syrup of ipycak (scuse spellin) which is what used to be given to children after she'd bitten mum's finger when mum tried to make the kid vomit after she ate some "fairy mushrooms" growing in the front yard. I'm not sure if that stuff is ok to give a dog or not. But the quicker you get it to vomit the better off you are where contraband is involved.

hi LucyLotto There is herding training, like obedience training, for herding competition, but I guess it would do as a safe way to introduce a dog new to sheep, and then potentially develop useful herding skills. So I would look up the NSW dog association, then the herding clubs that run competitions, then find a contact person and ask them if anyone in your area runs herding training, they could recommend. http://www.dogsnsw.org.au/activities-a-events/herding.html Beginner herding lesson for my dog involved a small round yard, three very shaggy "dog broke" sheep, a long line with knots in it, and a very experienced herding trainer and competition judge with a long bit of orange conduit - mostly used to encourage a dog to keep a sensible distance from the sheep - by whacking the ground between the dog and the sheep - mine head butt it a few times but wasn't hurt. Essentially we were hoping my dog would "show interest" in the sheep without attacking them, and then be strong enough to encourage the sheep to move around the yard. The sheep being very accustomed to this, did move, but mostly straight at the handlers - because that be safest place for sheep to be. I expect rural stock and station agents would also know who the good dog trainers are. All the country people know stuff like that, it's a matter of asking enough people until you get consistent answers and then checking things out for yourselves. Sheep herding for managing a farm is slightly different to sheep herding for competition, but they often overlap. sheep herding for fun and profit - video ad

Well my EH is feeling much better since upchucking some minced clothes peg she ate the other day. Glad I fed her chicken and rice - it somehow stayed down. She got same again tonight since I have only sighted a tiny (for her) poop today. Hoping things will be more substantial tomorrow, though in the jungle that is my backyard at the moment, it's possible it's out there somewhere. She ate another post from the 2x2 Weavers today too. Sigh. I'll start using the metal rods, bet she doesn't eat those. I'm feeling much the same (bleah), but naughty food (roast chicken leg, potato and zuccini) hasn't made any major difference which is promising.

Steve at K9pro would give you a program to prevent collar smart. I think it goes something like as often as possible and for as long as possible, have it on the dog, even though it's not "active". Start at least a couple of weeks before you plan to go active with it. I guess it really depends on how smart your dog is. I had a horse that learned to test electric fence with his whiskers - from another horse. And he also learned (for shorter electric fence, how to tell if it was active by the noise (or lack of it). Dogs are supposed to be smarter than horses.

My dog almost never humps, very occasionally she has tried to hump my foot, but it was more a case of accidentally finding the twitchy spot. I promptly relocate my foot because I don't want to encourage it, no matter how much she enjoys it. But she occasionally gets humped by other dogs. And I don't do much because she is quite capable of removing herself from the situation and usually does. Maybe I should intervene. I hadn't really thought about it. It just doesn't happen often enough. But I HATE dogs that hump everything ALL THE TIME. That's too much. And I won't allow it on me or my dog. And I don't think much of the owners who let their dogs do that. It's slightly more disgusting and outrageous than allowing dogs to jump all over people. And I don't like those dogs or their owners much either. And not sure how I feel about people who encourage my dog to jump on them. Sigh. If it's by invitation, I suppose but I don't like it much.

Kylielou Slight flaw in your reasoning. The media statement has declared AMSTAFF separate to Pitbull ie the two sets of dogs do not intersect ie two separate circles not overlapping. So no Amstaff is a pitbull and no pitbull is an Amstaff, which is what the breed registry would suggest. Though all dogs might have some common ancestry it goes beyond/before the breed registers. The person who made the argument that pitbull and amstaff were the same could have used a similar argument to say that a JRT and a pitbull are the same. The statement basically calls the judgement wrong. Or redefines the criteria on which the judgement was made. Hence my (unanswered?) question of whether this means the judgement is overturned or made void or set aside? or whatever the legal term for negating it is. You'd have to go to federal court to get the restriction overturned as it is at the National level - prohibited imports and all. BSL is still a stupid and ineffective way to prevent dog bites.

I like these contacts. Amazing. Natasha Wise - I think she's German or maybe English. Got some googling to do. I'm never going to be that good Natasha teaching beginner (sort of) agility including contacts and handling (guide the dog)

Thanks for all the pix, Ker Gawd the SUN was out!!! Ching is looking great post-op. Looks like a really manageable number of dogs and I guess, people. I had a nice sleep in and was feeling better enough (or stupid - blame the drugs) to clean the gutters in that brief moment of sun. They sure needed it. Blocked much?

I so want to come but will decide depending on us both showing normal healthy signs. Otherwise I don't want to share with the rest of you. Maybe we should just stay home... and think warm thoughts.

http://www.clickandtreat.com/Clicker_Train...r_training.html So if your dog isn't used to "free shaping" it will take her a while to figure out she needs to do something different to get the click-treat. Some trainers will always treat with the click with every click and some will click for every step in the right direction and only treat when the desired behaviour is achieved. It's good to use a throwaway cue word when the dog is going in the right direction and only add the preferred cue word (command) when the dog can reliably repeat the behaviour. So I guess it pays to have each behaviour/command nailed before moving on to the next thing. So to encourage your dog to "offer new behaviours", click on anything she does after you say "go" or whatever throw away word you choose. Do use a word like "oops" if she does something you don't want to see, but try to make it easy for her. What's something she does a lot like tilt her head, look at you, look at Spot? etc. I keep forgetting what I've already taught dog and should practice eg "touch" touch my hand (with your nose), click and treat from other hand... It's so cute when she remembers though.

Teebs How do you operate the computer under a blanky like that?

Is how some people toilet train their puppies... - number 1s anyway. I'm glad she hasn't figured out how to turn the tap on. Pretty sure she learned some good agility moves from watching Susan Garrett DVD.

Mine was scooting today. She had a hair sticking out of the centre. Though that happens a fair bit. I don't know how she gets them in there, they look fresh, not like they've been all the way through. And she has a short coat. And then a bit later she had the runs. EEK. Thinking the meet up is off until she does something normal. And that might go for both of us. I think sometimes she scoots cos it feels good and that's how she empties anal glands? Sometimes cos she has something stuck eg piece of grass that she didn't chew into small pieces. So on your check list - where is the checked under tail - all clear check?

I'm with Dory the Doted one I'd ban slip collars before I banned prong collars. Prong collars work on a system of pinching, not choking. So long as the prongs are flat and rounded and don't cut in, they're fine. But you do need to be trained how to use them properly. The same as with the slip/choke collars. So again, only available from trainers to trained people. But I've mainly seen them on dogs that are much stronger and sometimes heavier than their owners. And you never know what is going to freak a dog out or when, so rather a prong collar than being dragged into the path of an oncoming train or truck.

I sit at the end of the 3 seater, or the middle or the other end. Depends a bit if EH gets there first. ATM she's Nope - she's on the seat next to the back door - bad sign. Open back door and leave her to it. Here's hoping. Bloody rain.

Tah Piper I can understand the desire to go no matter what. Though I'd want to be absolutely sure the dog was sound (vet check, xray) so I didn't completely embarrass myself in front of guru trainer. I suppose the insurance against health problems or other last minute reasons to drop out, like travel insurance for holidays, cost of such insurance would probably exceed the probable loss if you had to quit the seminar/class? I imagine you'd still learn heaps standing on the sides watching. I know I do.