Mrs Rusty Bucket

Hmm, maybe I should have asked my Evil Hound before I put her down as "no religion" on the census. I put pastafarian for me.

we seem to be cutting other people's dogs. Frosty fell off River Star Aura's list and her dogs are not on half the words list (though that was only a couple of minutes after)

Airedale Terrier: Abbey Akita: Kyojin, Kuma American Staffordshire Terrier: Tua, Max, Juno Australian Cattle Dog: Elvis, Matilda Australian Cattle Dog X : Frosty Australian Shepherd: Banjo, Archie, Lottie Australian terrier: Bailey, Brandy, Jasper Australian Kelpie: Revan, Abby, Bluey, Cahill, Franky, Izzy, Spfyre, Milky, Kinta, Banjo Australian Kelpie X:Toby, Cooper Bearded Collie: Charlie, Bonnie, Bailie Belgian Shepherd (Groenendael): Fleming, Ivy Border Collie: Roy, Molly, Kirra, Rory, Rumor, Diesel, Kobie Border Collie x: Anna Borzoi: Oberon, Boris, Sonya, Kurgan, Ursula, Apollo, Atlas, Adonis, Argus, Alektos, Arinyes, Athena, Aphrodite, Aidos, Andromeda, Ares, Alexander Boxer: Bruno, Nelsson Brittany: Zora Bull Terrier: Bonnerville, Atlas Cane Corso: Ali Cavalier King Charles Spaniel: Bree, Ingrid, Jersey, Lacey, Fern, Floyd, Indy, Arnie, Joey, Renae, Bailey, Murphy Chihuahua: Chelsea and Pansy, Heidi, Bertie, Moose, Archi,Pepe, Squirt, Limpet, Jasper Cocker Spaniel : Maggie,Jesie, Bonnie, Chelsea Dalmatian: Appollo, Cleo Dogue De Bordeaux: Moose & Chevy English Cocker Spaniels: Jesie,Bonnie, Chelsea English Setter: Spartan, James English Springer Spaniel: Buddy Finnish Lapphund:Halo, Vienna, Jaana,Magnus,Aurora-Rose,Niina,Paddington,Maximus, Ahsoka, Fable, Demi,Varda, Asha, Boots, Echo, Alera Flatcoat Retriever: Moraig French Bulldog: Lola, FeeBee German Coolie: FlashBazil, Latte German Shepherd: Java, Odin, Tlaloc, Rebus, Indi, UnoBuffy, Bronx, Sabre, Kynan German Shorthaired Pointer: Pip, Coco, Polo Golden Retriever: Onslow, Matilda-Rose, Chester, Genie, Ella, Rosie, Bruce, Chloe, Chaos, Ruby Great Dane: Sparkles, Whitney Greyhound: Harry, Kiff, Sally Griffon Bruxellois: Mocha Hungarian Vizsla: Flynn, Rogan Jack Russell Terrier: Ringo, Nandi Japanese Spitz: Emmy Keeshond: Jedi Labrador Retriever: Lestat, Bailey, Tia, Mieka, James, Harry, Lily Rose, Miniature Long Haired Dachshund: Mini, Rover Newfoundland dogs: Annabelle, Katy, Lukey Norwegian Elkhound: Odin Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriver: Nova, Darcy, Jovi Papillon: Blaze, Minka, Portia, Tyson, Coco, Tonka Pointer : Kite Audrey Poppin konrad, Badger Poodle (Toy): Chilli Poodle (Minature): Caroline Poodle (Standard) Merry & Pippin, Poppy & babies. Pug: LotusFlynn, Elyse, Ted, Misty, Elly, Poppy, Sally landers,Archie, Beau, Haidee, Millies, Ivee, Jack Rhodesian Ridgeback: Meisha, Bakari, Boss Rottweiler: Roxy, Feonix, Radar, Neo, Abby, Dyzney, Fame, Jag, Nellie Rose, Baylee, Dee, Zephyr, Mini, Diesel, Fire, Flint Saluki: Bella Samoyed: Mistral, Alchemy, Yngvie, Dante, Bundy, Kamikaze, Fergus, Kato Schnauzer (minature): Maximus, Coconut,Betty,Jigga Shar Pei: Askari, Acheron, Asante sana, Sirius, Chippy, Christina, Diezel, Shih Tzu : Gizmo Siberian Husky: Akira, Tikaani,Romeo,Baby.Riddick,Indie, Esky Staffordshire Bull Terrier: Kiara, Zola, Diesel, Kaos, Brutus SWF: Zoe Rescue Bitsa: Keely, Fred & Ginger, Ozzie, Tess, Maverick, Bosco, Kyah, Charlie, Astrid, Mala, Bella, Tiny Tim, Jen Jen, Lilly White German Shepherd: Casper White Swiss Shepherd: Rakim, Whippet: Herbie, Buzz, Lewis, Rommi Weimaraner: Ariane, Lulu, Louie West Highland White Terrier: Penny, Mac, Daisy

If the neighbour and his kids are at your place with your permission ie you haven't asked them to leave, and they're not trespassing, then it's up to you to control your dog and make sure it doesn't harrass or bite (mouth) anyone whether or not damage is done. http://www.austlii.edu.au/au/legis/nsw/consol_act/caa1998174/s16.html It's really important you protect the dog. Training, supervision or removal from the play are your best options. I agree with the others that you need more than just "be a tree". Definitely need to stop the (self) reinforcement ie dog on lead, dog rewarded for what you do want ie a nice sit. Or only jumping with permission (eg on command).

Poppy Go Lightly & Dad is Reetano Sugar Downunder You gotta have Pop Rock Candy in that litter. And Violet Crumble and Smarties and all the oz only sugar hits.

I met a very soggy clipped papillon this arvo at the Torrens. It just loves mud and dirt and the owner's way of dealing with that is to keep the coat very short. I thought it was a slighly too furry chinese crested at first. They're a very energetic dog. That particular one was ball obsessed.

I read the title of this thread and thought why would anyone want to give food to wild rabbits? Bit of a relief it's more along the lines of making food out of wild rabbits. I've eaten them - whole family has eaten them. Good tucker if you can be stuffed with all the fiddling. We did/do/would skin and gut them first though. If the dogs are having them, skinning is probably optional. First thing my Evil Hound ate off her rabbit fur tug - was the rabbit fur.

Some "fluffies" have coats like velcro as far as attracting and holding onto stuff goes, and others don't. You can keep the coats short but they can still collect stuff. I guess with a woolly breed you can clip it off. Not so nice with some of the longer coat breeds. I have an ACDx from the AWL who has a very short coat - and the bonus is everything seems to just fall off it. But I don't know what kinds of small dogs would have simlar coat except maybe Jack Russels or Tenterfields (mini fox terriers) - and they do like picking fights with snakes and sometimes don't win - so you'd want to keep those on lead. I think one of the latest dogs to arrive at our dog park, I think it is a bichon friese and it seems to object to walking any distance. We're hoping it builds up some fitness and gets over itself.

cobbers fantails choc eclair fudge slice lock jaw (that stuff that is rock hard) tooth crack (likewise) banana caramel pie condensed milk fairy floss caramel tart sugar daddy vanilla caramel toffee nut rolos sweet heart

According to the RSPCA - puppy should not be younger than 8 weeks. http://kb.rspca.org.au/How-old-should-a-puppy-be-before-they-are-adoptedpurchased_311.html They have lots more great info on how to find the right puppy - because they don't want it showing up at their pound. http://www.rspca.org.au/how-you-can-help/campaigns/pedigree-dogs/choosing-a-puppy.html They have puppies too at RSPCA and AWL. As does pet rescue. http://www.petrescue.com.au/search/?a=d&g=f&s=p&l=a&a_id= You want to make every effort to avoid a puppy from a puppy mill as it may have ongoing social and health problems from the conditions of its origin. This usually involves avoiding the cross breeds with fancy names for "mutt". And you won't get any help here finding one of those anyway. Ideally you want one of these http://kb.rspca.org.au/What-is-a-responsible-companion-animal-breeder_327.html And the best way of contacting them intially is via phone - some of them get a lot of dodgy scam emails asking for their puppies and a phone call may be an easy way to avoid any misunderstanding. Or you can go to some dog shows and look at who has what and ask questions there. Is possibly the best way to find the right breed if you haven't decided yet. This website covers everything except the phone number of the perfect doggy match for you. http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/digital-dog-training-textbook I HATE Cesar Milan's training methods. Far too much physical and verbal punishment and not enough rewards based training for my liking. It's one thing to use those methods when the owner has been mishandling the dog for years, but it's no place to start. I like Ian Dunbar (digital dog training text book) and Susan Garrett methods much better. If you want a dog for long bush walks - you might want to get something with a short coat that doesn't pick up seed, burrs and dirt easily. But you would also want a dog that sticks with you and doesn't go off hunting small or large critters and get bit by a snake or collect a tick. Ie terriers might be one to avoid unless you're prepared to keep the dog on lead. Which is what I do bush walking. And you might want to find a puppy pre-school (often run by vets) and a dog obedience / training club near you as well. These can be great ways to teach your dog to be friendly with other dogs and people and meet friends for doggy "play dates".

I'm just repeating what the chinese man told me (is that Chinese whispers?) But I don't know which bit of China he was from, and he thought his own life was going to be hard going back because he's not a member of the communist party. I agree it's a big place, but what happenned to those Rio Tinto execs and a few other Australian business people who seem to have gotten on the wrong side of the wrong people - freaks me out. How do you know who to trust with what when that happens?

My understanding is that you can't bring a dog directly from China to oz - it has to spend about 6 months in Hong Kong first being quarantined there and then some more time being quarantined in Oz. There was a Chinese student who had a GR he walked at the same dog park as me. When he had to go back to China he found a new home for his dog so it could stay in Oz. He was too worried the dog would never make it alive in China - they eat them there. There was someone else that said they were going to china and taking the dogs too but decided against when they found out how hard it was to bring the dogs back. Ie can't. I'm just wondering if anyone has any reliable info on dogs as pets in china - and whether or not they survive the chinese baggage handers?

If he can't be nice to customers, he would be better off hiring a PR firm to take the calls and explain the details of the product.

i think you could write out your intentions clearly in a letter, and put a deadline - like a month, if you haven't heard back then you will assume that the breeder agrees to your terms - put that in the letter too. Send it registered mail so someone has to sign for it and you can verify it delivered. You could maybe email a copy of the letter also - with a request return receipt on it. If they use outlook, chances are you will automatically receive notice if they open the email. Other email clients give them the option. If you're worried about legal stuff - that would mean getting a lawyer involved and by the time you're done arguing it all out, it's going to cost way more than the dog, the microchip, the desexing, the hip scores and everything put together. I think hip scores require a general anaesthetic. And it's possible if the breeder is listed on this site that they also read the threads. And I am not a lawyer - this is not a substitute for your own legal advice - which is what you should get if you're worried about legal things.

Just wait till that writer does a site search about what we think of the berk... And I think by expert they mean anyone who knows a little bit more on the subject than they do. So if that's a multiplier on nothing, that still gets the title of "expert".

I don't understand the point of buying BARF. Ie if you're going to feed your dog raw food because it's better than the processed stuff full of mystery or inappropriate ingredients - why would you trust what you buy already processed for you? You'd have to mix it up yourself? Yes? No? http://www.dolforums.com.au/topic/108351-barf-recipes/ I'd have to know what you wrote in the original inquiries to know if I would understand Billinghurst's reaction. It doesn't make sense on the face of it. Other than if he thinks all his customers are fools from which to part money.

Labs and ridgebacks seem to be the experts at bowling people over. I have met some staffies who give it a red hot go too, but they're better at bowling over children.

scabbing is part of normal healing Red raw and pus filled is sign of infection and will need treating with antibiotics. Honey is mildy antibiotic especially the NZ manuka honey - but that will probalby increase the licking. I like to put aloe vera as that's really good for wound healing - but maybe not on the nose because it tastes HORRIBLE even to a dog, and in large quantities - toxic. But I put it other places I don't want her to lick like occasional leg wounds and her spey site when she was little. I agree with warm salty water bath. It's worth a try. Not too salty or that will sting.

Thanks guys I was thinking it was in the "sh1t happens" category but I still feel awful about it like I could have prevented it somehow. My evil hound lies very flat against the sand (head and everything) when she sees a big dog coming. She's learned from being skittled too.

Labrador bowling ball skittles owner... Yesterday, my evil hound and I went to the beach - cos it was a record warm day and might as well make the most of it. It's cold and raining today. So we meet up with another owner who has a big black labrardor. My dog and the black lab start playing together, and they're having a lovely time doing zoomies. My dog is quite evil in terms of herding the other dog but she is very good at avoiding prangs. Not so for some of the other dogs she runs with. Including this lab. One minute - they're over there running, and the next minute the black lab turns unexpectedly and skittles his owner. She lands on top of him and her head bangs on the sand and she takes quite a while to get up but she wasn't knocked unconscious. The dog is whimpering and holding his back leg in the air. And I've got no idea what to do apart from make sure they both keep breathing and that the lab stays put (no more running) until we've checked his leg out. We check the leg out as best we can, can't find anything that triggers any additional discomfort in the lab - he doesn't yelp at any of the poking and prodding we do. And eventually he gets up and considers resuming play - which I discourage - by keeping my dog close (treats are good). And then both dogs go off sniffing like nothing happened. Except he's noticably lame in that leg. And the owner is walking ok but quite sore. So I post this story in the hope that you guys can give me some ideas on what else I might have done. I'd hate to stop my dog from ever doing zoomies, but maybe I could make sure she herds more considerately ie not into owners, people and fences. Ie I could try to stop her if she tries to herd a dog towards obstacles? Or I could make sure the other owner pays more attention - except I'm pretty sure she was and it happened so quickly.

It's usually possible to test this. I assume they have and they know that the virus that the humans and the dog had - went through the horses first. The way viruses mutate - makes them traceable. Eg it is possible to trace back where HIV infections have been passed on also. The fact sheet from the QLD government is quite helpful. As is the CSIRO article.

Have you got a harness with a clip on the back - should help engage the opposition reflex and then maybe do some restrained recalls - using the clip for restrain and something really yummy to drive to. You may have to start small and build up with the pulling. ie reward for pulling against a harness, but maybe not for pulling against a collar. Is there any thing that she will chase or lunge after to get her started...

That one might be for the second hand jewelry shops.

You're probably right. I think I'd double fence the trees so the shade was still available most of the day, but the horses couldn't be directly under.

Where I could dig a hole I did. That would be why I like the sandy deserts. Easy to dig. Not so fond of the limestone on the nullabor - you can't dig that but you can make cairns out of concrete.