Jacquiboss&scoop

Some dogs do it , we try to prevent them getting to it , there are some spray doggie deoderisors that you can find in your pet shop but I am not sure how effective they would be , I know how you feel our dogs eat raw and are big enough to be fed whole fish , Keisha loves to rub her face and neck all over her fishy dinner before dining makes for a smelly cuddles after dinner , but she looks estatic while she does it almost like a cat with cat nip

the rottie ate the cultivator and box that it was delivered in within 2 hours of its arrival , we returned home to find her running around the yard having a ball with one of the wheels , was flat packed every part that was rubber , plastic was chewed beyond recognition the steel bits were scattered all over the yard RRR oh and one new 4WD wheel eaten a whole in ( while still attached to the car ) . So list would look like 1x Saddle 20 pairs of gloves and counting 1 x cultivator 150 m of irrigation pipe 1 x control box on the water pump 1 x 4WD wheel 1 x kitty litter tray ( out in the sun for airing ) Garden hose Rose bushes Dog beds on a monthly basis

HI Mona your not alone , for us its the gardening gloves , and the riding gloves we never leave leather or hides alone they are to much temptation to our three , oh and although they have never chewed the leather couch they lick it constantly drives us nuts , nothing worse than finding they have managed the impossible to get to the gloves we use for riding we hide them on a shelf 2 meters off the ground , all it takes is for one finger to be hanging down and they are gone

ohh do like the look of the Thai Ridgeback off to google to find other picks , yup breed identification seems to be a real hard one to do perhaps we need our show judges to determine breed identification instead of someone who just takes a stab in the dark , if not for the BSL it would be funny

it is scary when it gets caught on the roof of the mouth between the teeth . a trick I came across when it happened with my cat was to take a pencil and flick the bone out with the blunt end , or use a small pair of scissors hook the handle loop around a bottom canine tooth while you flick the bit of bone out with your finger this is a little safer as cats and dogs panic a little when stuff gets stuck and might bite by accident

Yup , all the meat is pretty much striped off them , most bulk chicken suppliers will have them , never had any issues with carrots they are a big part of our dogs raw food ,if they dont get any for a while they pinch the horse carrots

if she looks like she is having trouble getting through them try bashing them with a meat hammer to break them a little bit , we do this for the cat and it allows him to eat them a little easier , chicken wings I have found to be fine and I doubt even a full grown Pom would be able to bolt them whole , should make for a good chew for a baby

after the malasab bath try a little dab of betadine or powder with curash baby powder , hot spots can be caused by reaction to flea and insect bites as well so a good going over to see if they have picked up any nasties might help , they tend to be an immune response to something , elimination exposure and diets can help to find the cause . if they continue or get worse an injection and AB treatment from the vet will clear it up in the short term but you need to identify the cause if you can

depends on her size , chicken and turkey necks are good , as well as chicken wings for the smaller ones , the bigger the dog the bigger the bone needs to be , rule of thumb make sure they cannot swallow it whole , supervise all bones , my bigger dogs love the pork hocks if puppy is a small one try piggy trotters for the long chew always feed bones raw never cooked

Hi Congrads on your new family member , I find that the best way to introduce a new puppy to the family is to put a lead on dogs already in the home and sit calmly on the floor with new puppy on your lap , allow your first dog to sniff freely and watch the behaviour for warning signs. If your adult is well socialised and the puppy is young you should have no issues with the introduction as puppy will wriggle and belly up for the older dog who may be a little stiff at first , my old staffy loves puppies , he will sit and wait for the pup to come to him sometimes if they are a little slow on greeting him he goes belly up to encourage them. Try not to get between them too much allow them to get to know each other without fuss from the humans, also allow the older dog to set her boundries on what the pup can do ( our new pups are not allowed to approach the front gate until at least 5 months old the older dogs tell them off ( hard looks and the odd grumble if they are not listing ) Feed them in different rooms every dog has the right to eat in peace . house training is all about consistancy if you want a dog who always goes outside you have to make sure that they can always get outside to go If your older dog is not allowed to do things ( hop up on to couches and beds ) then new puppy needs to learn all the same rules , keep it even Good luck and enjoy your new pup

we feed at night as they settle better , also we exercise them in the morning and we dont like to feed directly before or after exercise , So I would say it depends on your exercise and day to day routine, ours love food any time of the day if they can get it.

a whole hour is a long time for a baby puppy , think do as many training sessions as you like , with as many clubs as you like but remember that she is only a baby puppy and she will need breaks in between , also pups like kids get fed up fairly quickly and loss focus , training is very tiring for puppies so a little often is good

thanks for the links corvus , for the life of me her name was not coming up at all

Gee I wish I could find Covus's linky for you even the trainers name has shot out of my head , it discribes it so well . When it comes to behaviour its all about what is acceptable to you , what you want your puppy to do , sift everything through your common sense filter and see what you are left with , for the whys of doggie behaviour would suggest that you sign up for behavioural science at uni (lol ). Essential to remember dogs are social animals Most of there behaviour is directed towards living in acceptable harmony with their "pack" Most dogs like to settle things without direct confrontation Dominant is a concept to me of I want ! but do I want as much as the other pack member wants? and is it worth the conflict / Challenge at THIS point in time , so the challenge can be fluid not always the same NILF is good because everything the dog might want is provided by you , if you dont give dog doesnt get so the above scenario is a lot less likely to happen , there are some good books around so reading would be in order be gentle with your baby keep your common sense at the front and grin and ignore the advice you think is questionable , is a lot like raising kids If you like the way the persons dog behaves it might be worth listing too, always a good guide when looking for a mentor Oh and I think that my interpretation of the meaning of dominate in the behavioural sense is different to the standard Oxford meaning so in the sense that you are using the word and my understanding of the word in this contex are worlds apart I think that the real meaning is lost in the hype try looking it as behaviours you will accept and behaviours you dont and train accordingly

Ummm 14 week old pup needs to learn some manners Gun dog is a working dog !!! LOL , Even if you subscribe to the approach that is taken by these trainers ( have to say I dont ) Why do you need a sledghammer to crack a peanut ? rolling a dog over , scruffing it , all these types of things are last ditch when it comes to correction for adult dogs to puppies , not at all needed for a baby with a vital job to do once she grows up a grumble and a hard look should be quiet effective when you need to correct Its easier just to teach them what you want instead . As a guide dog puppy placement perhaps you could have a chat with their staff as to what methods they prefer to use, that way she starts as she needs to continue ,

HI Aussie lover how old is your pup ? age can often be a big factor in behaviour Dominant is a bit of an overused word I think and the behavioural meaning gets lost , I see the behaviours that you have highlighted are very common in working dog puppies , Dominant behaviour to me is all about access to resources and this is a fluid thing depending on who wants what at that time and how high the desire is for it as to the likely hood of challenge for the resource most of the things you have highlighted can be easily corrected with NILF ( nothing in life is free ) and TOT training . Most of what she is doing will correct with training with a few hiccups while she is a teenager and if not desexed this is marked at around the 2nd heat. None of the behaviours you highlighted would concern me with a young working dog , they just have a few manners to learn is all. are you planning to do agility or herding with her ? she might need a job to do to settle a little if she is a challenge the good thing is once you start with this type of pup they make a fantastic dog . some of her behaviours particularly the mounting and racing you through doors are more over excitement than any attempt to dominate you , mouthing is often the same when dogs play with dogs they use their mouths and if she is over stimulated easily this may be the cause not any attempt to be the boss but just a firecracker of a personality , good thing is you can channel this into her training good luck with her PS corvus has a good link for dominance

Hi Jaded dont feel bad , but you NEED to separate these 2 , you are not punishing either one of them it would be much worse for them both if they have another scrap, I have 2 fairly strong minded bitches and find that prevention beats cure everytime , feed them in separate rooms , pick up the dishes as soon as meal is finished , I would not let them interact alone at all at this point and would be very wary of allowing it even if I was present It only takes a second of inattention to miss the signals and with some dogs there is very little warning at all can be just a look that sets off the next fight , desexing will be unlikely to change anything at all, dont count on it for cure all as it is not one ( it will stop unwanted puppies for sure this is the reason we do it ) . Book a specialist to come and see you and your dogs keep them isolated until then , it is far better to have their noses a little out of joint than have them both at the vet for surgery bitch fights are NASTY in any breed they are quite happy to maim or kill each other when they get going is better not to allow the chance to happen . I feel for you as it is hard to have dogs that must be kept apart but it can be done Good luck with it and hoping for a working answer for you all

As long as he makes the clear connection still to the act I suppose so , he also might need you to do the forgive stage of the process so that he moves on ? I guess we have been lucky in that from very young our dogs prefer to eliminate outside unless they are very sick , messing inside in our oldies is when we start thinking if the rainbow bridge is near as they hate to do it , might be cause they see our house as their kennel LOL , can understand that it would be frustrating to find a mess from an adult dog and a bit of a growl would be normal to prevent the squat becoming a puddle on the carpet

HI Jacqui I always looked at it as a type of expected response for example puppy learns walk means that they will get to go out and get excited , even picking up the lead will get bum wiggles and bounces out of my lot , so with this in mind playing with something that they should not be (that they have been in trouble for and shown "guilty " behaviour for ) will tend to get the same reaction even if you have not yet discovered the transgression. Our dogs do not get told off when house training so if an accident happens they do not expect to get into trouble so no display of apeasment (Sp) , but they do get into trouble for chewing the irrigation system so they display this behaviour when we come home , even though they had not been caught in the act. the act elicts this behaviour in it self as a sort of trained ? conditioned response

It does help Woof , current owners and dogs that are know to people are a big help in this sort of question , are these dogs shown at all ? or are they pets only ?

Hi Trina J Its not that I have a preference for no tail over tail , but I did want to know why the bob tails are not more common than they are at the moment. We always buy our rotties from good breeders, sadly is not always a perfect world and the girl I have at the moment we had to desex due to a heart condition and her confirmation makes me cry when I think of the time bomb the poor girl is carrying around underneath. (she has a fantastic tail moves like a dream with a top line to die for ) It is more a question that if I find a pup I like without a tail should I be on the watch for health probs that may also show more often when the pup has a genetic bob tail , in reading I have seen everything from entropin to temp issues linked and was wondering how true it is after all the story 15 years ago was dont buy a rottie or a GSD as they ALL have HD and we all know that was a load of bull dust. We just want our next baby to be healthy with a long life ( and it would be nice to have something we can show again mad as I am I miss it

Ok , so reward not delayed , how would this relate to latent learning , as the reward was expected to be at the end of the maze without delay ? the theory appears to be allowance for down time directly after the activity will create a gain in response time\ performance on the next run over and above what would normal in expectation , it suggests a style of thinking that I am not used to being related to animals with the exception perhaps of Apes ? or do I have the wrong end of the stick completely ?

HI Aidan thanks very much for that was the reward directly after the activity ? or was there a time lapse ?

HI Rakazz , I thought you and Allerzeit said the same thing different ways ? thanks for the info all , was only truly interested in seeking such a pup out if the confirmation, health and temps were comparable to tailed babies , do enjoy my girls tail but do like the unusual as well

Thanks very much for that Allerzeit , If the confirmation and quality are not there in them then would much rather a tailed one ,the lines seem to go well outside the lines I am used to researching and to be honest havent seen one that I like in the last few years