kiesha09

I've been to the vet tonight and feel much better about things. He will go onto 5mg twice a day for three days with the view of reducing the dose from there. Hopefully we'll be able to slowly reduce it to a 1/4 tablet every two days. He starts on Thurs (after the previcox is out of his system) so hopefully it works and it goes to plan!

I find it really reassuring that almost all of you have said that for your dogs the quality of life that the prenisone has given vastly outweighs the side effects. It is also reassuring that some of you have dogs who have been on it long term and they are ok. He went off his anti-inflams today and will start the prenisone on Friday so fingers crossed he'll be alright.

Thanks for the replies everyone! Chip is only 5 so he will probably be on this drug long term. But as Rebanne said it is better to have a happy but shortened life than one full of pain. I can't bear to watch him suffer the way he is at the moment so made the decision to give this a go. He already has the biggest appetite so I'm really hoping that this won't make it worse. I have to be VERY strict with him to keep him at a good weight as well so weight gain is something I really have to be careful about with his sore joints. Danois how old was your dog when diagnosed with immune mediated polyarthritis?

My boy Chip has inflammatory polyarthritis which has become worse in the last few weeks. He was on anti-inflammatories which were doing a great job but not anymore. So then they gave him some painkillers as well to help with the pain. But I have seen no change. The next course of action is to put him on prednisone. I've googled it and all I keep reading about are these awful side effects from long term use. Anyone have any experience with long term use of this stuff?

I can provide the winery :D so looks like it's all sorted then

Rappie they did so many tests to be honest I lost track of them all. I do remember they did xrays, bloods etc. and couldn't find anything. Then I was referred to a specialist who did a test where they put him under and extracted fluid from his joints (can't quite remember the proper name for the test). The tests done on this fluid came back as inflammatory polyarthropathy. Currently he isn't on a steroidal treatment and they have mentioned they would like to avoid that treatment for as long as possible because of the impact it has on their liver and kidneys. Yet have said if this new painkiller doesn't work that it the next option (I would have to wean him off his current anti-inflams for 4 days before he could be changed to the new drug).

I was referred to a specialist for the diagnosis but nothing was mentioned about further tests to ascertain what started it in the first place. They did say though there was no cure for it but that it would be something that required management from this time on. I don't currently think that it's at the point where I need to think about having him put to sleep as there are some options but yes I do think it may be something that I need to think about for the future.

A few months ago my boy was diagnosed with this condition. With no drugs he was in a bit of pain and looked like an old dog struggling to get up from laying down, couldn't jump on the couch, slow walking etc. So for the last few months he has been on some anti-inflammatries and has been really good. He still can't jump up on the couch but he's not so slow getting up and down from lying down, isn't in any obvious pain and is happy to go for walks etc. Then about 5 days ago it all went downhill. He started yelping at nothing but often when I was patting him, he wouldn't go near the other dog (who is also now scared of him), he wouldn't lie down but just stood there head down and tail between his legs, every time he moved it was like he was trying to get away from something. Last night it got alot worse as he started puffing heavily, his breathing got laboured, he won't come near me and has been shaking all over but particularly in his back legs. I took him to the vet who prescribed him painkillers which may cause him to be a bit sedated plus he has his anti-inflams. I know there is no cure for this disease but I'm just not sure I'm happy with the treatment he is getting. But then again I am not a vet so don't know what the options are. I have done so much research but haven't really found anything. Has anyone gone through this same thing? What treatment did your dog recieve and were you happy with it? Also, no one is giving me any answers about how this is going to effect his life long term. Will it significantly reduce his life expectancy or could he live with it for a long time? I don't know if I can watch him be in the amount of pain he has been in for the last few days. But he is only 5 and has so much life to live!

Do you have heating/cooling vents that point towards one of the crates?

I used to go to the Hills vet clinic which is in Blackwood. I thought it was absolutely fantastic and had it been closer would still continue to go there. I actually used to travel from the city to go to that vet.

Thanks everyone for the input. Was very interesting reading what some of you do. I'd love to do 2 walks a day but I'm just not sure how everyone fits it all in I did morning walks for the past few days and have been enjoying them. There aren't as many dogs about. Thing is the dogs still go hyper after work too as thats their normal walk time. I guess its good to change things up a bit and make their lives a little more unpredictable.

I believe you need to make a choice - continue to let the dog sleep outside and wait them out. Only go out to the dog once its quiet so your not reinforcing the barking. Even if you go out and give the dog a bone or kong that is reinforcement for barking. Even going out to shush the puppy is reinforcing. I wouldn't be taking them for a walk straight away either because this is probably exactly what the puppy wants or its breakfast. This option runs the risk of really giving your neighbours the irks! Or second option is crating the dog inside (doesn't have to be your bedroom could be the loungeroom) so that you can wait the dogs barking out without it annoying your neighbour (although could annoy you for a while). I would crate the dog in my bedroom personally and then in the morning when it wakes I would probably let it out for a wee grab a stuffed kong and put the puppy back in its crate with the kong and go back to bed. Under no circumstances would I get up, look at or even shuush the barking puppy (very reinforcing when all they want is attention). I would get up on my own terms and puppy would still need to be quiet in its crate before I let it out. The second option is what I have done with my two dogs who will stay in bed until I get up no matter the time. For example after a big night out I've slept in to 2pm a few times and they are quite happy to stay snoozing. They have a doggy door so go out once to pee by themselves but will always go straight back to bed.

I normally walk my dogs after work each day at about 6.30pm. But this morning I took them for a walk before work at 6.30am because I have to go out tonight. While I was walking around the streets (in daylight instead of in the dark)it made me wonder if it is better for them to have their walk in the morning. What do you do and why?

I couldn't have said this better myself! The big thing I have learned about Susan Garrett when doing her recent e-course is the degree of consistency & environmental management that is required using her methods takes a great deal of discipline by the owner. My oppinion is that so many dog owners wouldn't be bothered because they see a reef of the collar as being so much easier and they don't have to analyse things too much. But this is at their own detriment to their relationship with their dog and their dogs enjoyment for training. Susan Garretts methods put many trainers out of their comfort zone because its different to what they are used to. I love the way she challenges you to think and work through problems!

The two top breeds on my list are Aussies and standard poodles. Lottie what is it about your lifestyle that makes Aussies fit so well? My only concern with them is that as an adult I've never had a shedding dog and I'm not sure if I could deal with the hair

Please do some research on buying litter mates. It isn't always a good idea but I"m sure some others will provide you with some more info on this.

I know quite a few people with poodles and whippets. I wonder what it is about this combination that people like so much. Perhaps I need to add whippets to my list (just joking!)

Yes this has happened to me too. Currently on my list I have: Border Collie Standard Poodle Australian Shepherd Depending on the day will depend on what answer you get. I currently have two non-shedding dogs (and I LOVE that) but really really want a BC at some stage. Yet then I start thinking about the hair and I'm not sure I could cope with it (I'm a slight clean freak). ETA: Also on the list is a French bulldog or Boston Terrier because they are SO cute, not much grooming required and I may really appreciate not having a dog with such full on exercise requirements.

Great letter Willow!!!! Sums it all up perfectly. I would also like to write one to the German Shepherd who lives near me. His owner is a complete idiot that makes my blood boil just looking at him. I would thank the German Shepherd for not eating my two little dogs. Last week I walked around the corner to see the idiot man with his lovely unleashed GS. i tried to turn back around the corner because one of my girls is leash reactive. Well didn't get a chance. The GS saw my dog and ran straight towards us posturing over the top of my dog. Idiot man is saying to his dog 'come here' 'sit' 'back heeeerrreeee' until he finally gets to me and says 'Oh wow that was a perfect response, what a good dog, he did the perfect thing and didn't attack your dog' At that I totally flipped my lid and said something along the lines of 'your telling me he did the perfect thing when he did about 5 things wrong first, he rudely rushed up to another dog while you yelled three different commands all which he ignored and now you're telling me he is offlead and aggressive. PUT YOUR DOG ON LEAD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!' This is about the 4th time I have come across this man and every time I have asked him to put his dog on lead. The dog will cross roads to rush up to other dogs and will eventually be hit by a car. If I run into him again I plan on asking him where he lives. If he tells me I'm reporting him to the council. I've had enough of moronic dog owners!!!

I'm doing the course too. While I'm loving it, it has brought up numerous issues I have to work through as well so it's well and truly taking more than 5 minutes a day. Currently I'm quite behind because my dogs have been slower at catching on with some games (and of course those are the ones where other games are built on) but not too fazed. These are games that I can play with my dogs for the rest of their lives so it doesn't matter much. I just want to have played each game once by the time the course finishes so that if I have any questions I can ask them. Mrs Rusty Bucket - I can't remember which exactly but a couple of days ago I saw a post from you and thought 'ah yes she must be a recaller'

This is a straw man argument but I'll play along. Why were you sneaking out of your room to go kiss girls? Did your dad want you to stay away from girls completely? If this is so, did you not find another way to avoid getting caught? How did you feel about your dad giving you the strap to prevent you having any relationships with anyone else? I using this reference for the recognition of bad behavior Yeah, I get that. It's still a straw-man - it's not analogous, you're using something similar but different to fabricate flaws in my argument. And you still haven't answered my questions, which I'm going to have to assume is because if you did, you'd have to relate the straw-man argument back to the real discussion, thus exposing the flaws in your argument. I could do this all day, but I'd rather you engaged in the discussion on rational grounds. To anyone following this discussion, please note that while there may be some trainers who do this, the whole point of the exercise suggested (LAT) is to engage with the scary thing. In fact, just about any modern method for working with reactive dogs actively avoids what JoeK is suggesting here. We do not "distract" or "lure" the dog except in special circumstances which I won't go into. Look at That is specifically about teaching the dog how to respond to scary stuff while you build positive associations with it. The dog learns that he isn't under attack. The red-herring of the working line protection dog assumes that the dog wants to fight for the sheer thrill of fighting, which may be true in rare cases, but mostly is misguided self-deception from cowboys who think they have the biggest, baddest d...og in town. Defence drive means the dog feels like he has to defend himself, which should be obvious. There are many roads to Rome, not all of them are alike. Thanks everyone for all the comments on this thread. It's certainly made for some interesting discussion. My girl is an extremely soft dog that can lose her confidence from the slightest thing so corrections are not for her. The paragraph I have bolded by Aiden sums it up. She is actually very fearful of other dogs and is basically giving them a warning to stay away from her. When at the park off lead she will generally greet other dogs however if certain breeds of dogs go to greet her (ie malamutes or huskies) she will run away from them (I obviously try to avoid this kind of situation). So what I need to do is teach her the appropriate ways to respond to scary dogs and build positive associations with them. But what I'm really struggling with is developing my plan of action and the steps involved. If I start with the LAT game how can I set it up so its completely controlled? How can I set this up regularly enough to actually make a difference? How do I exercise her enough without walking around the streets where I can't control possible encounters with other dogs (so many times I've walked around the corner and there is another dog being walked or stopped at the traffic lights). These are the kinds of questions I need to address before I can make the POA.

Thanks for all the replies, there has been some great information posted! Great idea about the Control Unleashed yahoo group. I have the CU book but I should really read it again. The point in bold about not seeking more distance could be exactly what is going on here. To get the distance at the moment is like trying to drag a freight train backwards. All she wants is to be able to see the other dog (and greet them too). But then what you say about Erik is also true for my girl - waiting her out to come down again after a 'reactive episode' can take what feels like forever. If we're on a walk and she sees a dog in the first 5 minutes then she could be over aroused for the rest of the 40 minute walk. The other day I wanted to do some training out the front of my house so walked out the front door and a guy with two malamutes walked past. Well needless to say Kiesha lost her mind so I just stood there. 20 minutes later she still wouldn't give me her focus because she was still looking for those big hairy dogs that walked past. So got a half hearted nose touch, a barely there pull on the tug and left it at that. I definately think that I need to build value for a loose leash in all levels of distractions including barking dogs. I just struggle with how I can make sure she gets enough exercise and do this at the same time? Currently I can't get her to look at me in 20 minutes of reactivity (however she checks in all the time on walks if she hasn't seen a dog) so it doesn't give me a very big reinforcement window. I do however, have a party when she does look at me. What can I do about the dogs behind fences that she can't see? This all started because a dog rushed at a fence and barked scaring me, my other dog and of course kiesha. I know she is worried about these dogs and will often jump up to fences to see if she can see over it.

This may be a dumb question but when playing the LAT game at home, what do I get her to look at? Can it be anything? I guess it's all about teaching her to look at 'something'. Do you point to the thing you want her to look at?

Good luck Wuffles. I would love to get someone out to assess the situation but unfortunately for the next month or so money is going to prevent that from happening.

I have done focus training with her before however this has never progressed to out on walks because as soon as she hears or sees a dog on walks she is WAAAAYYY past the threshold. It may take her 10 minutes to calm back down to take treats. I know that I have to move her away until she is sub threshold but sometimes this seems impossible when its a dog that has barked 3 streets over starts her reactivity. Kavik the method you suggest sounds great in theory and what I have tried so far. It's quite similar to the look at that game really that Corvus suggested too. But how did you set this up? Secondly, I need to work the steps inbetween focusing on me automatically and then focusing on me when there is another dog present (even if it is accross the road as that would still be too close). At this stage she has absolutely fabulous focus on me when there are no other dogs but bring a dog into the picture and it's all gone (this includes a dog barking 3 streets away). I have read the article you posted before Poodlefan and it is a good article. I completely can relate to the impact of body language and I am sure mine contributes to the problem. However, I still struggle with the mechanics of some of the suggestions. I am willing to bet alot of money that my girl would not respond to the cue to sit in order for the lead to be loose in the presence of another dog on the street. I have also done as the article suggested and tried to change her body posture by moving her into a sit and used calm stroking techniques etc. but there is no way she will sit unless I held her there (which is increasing her frustration). I need to bring her arousal and frustration level way down. I also have the problem that I don't want her to be practicing this behaviour anymore (its already gone on long enough) but really how do I exercise her then?