Ms Genki

Mine had a positive temp test at the pound by ARF volunteers. The problems didn't arise until he was brought home and entered a new environment. Just bear in mind that sometimes, one doesn't always see the 'true dog' until a couple of weeks later.

Megan, Your inbox seems to be full so here's my message. I was very surprised and relieved to see your thread on keeping reactive dogs active and occupied. I have one such dog that's very athletic and was despairing that he can't play off leash on ovals because I just can't take the risk that a small or medium dog will be sighted off in the distance. He can and will break away from me because he's strong and nothing works when his prey drive kicks in. I'm very grateful for this thread. There have been many times in the past when I've beaten myself up for taking on a dog that was a constant exercise in micromanagement for a very long time. Feels great to have more options for managing him. Thanks for starting up the thread. Have a lovely weekend. And for the record of other readers, yes, mine has seen a behaviouralist who was excellent. Some of these ideas are a great complement to the things that I didn't get around to discussing with him.

Yikes, sounds like a repeat offender and it's only one individual then. I didn't know about the other dogs.

Wish someone would send out notices to remind owners to secure their dogs before SkyFire. I'm one of those people who never know when it's on until the day. All it takes is a mailing list and a request to pass the reminder on to family, friends and colleagues. If numbers remain ridiculous at the pound next weekend, I'm more than happy to come out with my little laptop and camera to assist with temp testing in whatever way I can. Unfortunately, can't host a dog as one of mine is not the friendliest.

We walk our dogs often and know quite a few regulars. One old fellow told us that he had lost his labrador about four weeks ago. The painter left the gate open and the dog got out. Half an hour later, the owner received a call. A sixteen year old had stabbed his dog, in the throat, shoulders, back and legs. Presumably someone was kind enough to stay with the dog or get it to a vet. The owner went to the vet's and the dog had to be put to sleep due to the severity of his injuries. I don't know the rest of the story and I don't want to know the rest of the story with regard to that teenager (given the legal status accorded to dogs and the fact that this apparent sicko is a minor). This poor old guy is now looking to adopt another lab that is similar to the one that he lost. Please ensure that your dogs are secure in their yards- or the house when workpeople or visitors are around. I see a few roamers every now and again. Might carry around my mobile, a spare leash and treats in the event that I ever have to hold onto them and contact the owner.

Oh dear, I had the same situation and didn't find a solution until two years later, due to trial and error! Adopted a very athletic and muscular ridgeback cross from DAS who is a high jumper and liked to go exploring at any opportunity. Installed colourbond, bought a $600 roofed wire run that he chewed out of...clad three of the walls in $300 of colourbond...he still got out by making a gap between the door and wall.... In the end, I got over my reservations and purchased a DAC electric fence. He tested it twice and though he's the dopiest thing ever (much brawn, little brain), he never steps within two metres of the fenceline now Not even to pursue a ball that he is utterly obsessed with. He absolutely hates being zapped. Go with an dog-specific electric 'containment system' and be committed to do the training properly. But yes, expect to have teething and settling issues with a dog that's straight from the pound. I am certain that my dog ended up there because he was a chronic roamer. He was an absolute handful. These forums kept me sane. More than happy to answer any questions you might have- it took a long time for my dog to settle down and be content with confinement in a large backyard with several toys and a canine companion. He preferred other people's front yards and ovals. Another dog may not necessarily keep yours in the yard. P/S: Bull Arabs are absolutely beautiful dogs. I hope your former pound-hound gives you less grief than mine. :D

Another recommendation for Pets at Peace Canberra from me. My family used them when our first dog, a Samoyed, died (picture as my avatar) and everyone but me was an absolute wreck at the vet's. They made a very painful part of the process bearable. Great thoughtful personal service, the guy came around with our dog's ashes in a beautiful urn and handwritten note. I was very impressed, and I am seldom impressed with service providers! (Satisfied, but not impressed!)

The only non-blurry product from today's attempted Christmas photo shoot...(the labrador resisted capture). Merry Christmas everyone! Go easy on the turkey.... ;)

I purchased a PAC electronic fence after doing searches on DOL about escape behaviour and containment systems. It's similar to those Innotek systems. There are instructions and I should be able to put it together, albeit very slowly. The information that is missing is how to secure the wire around the yard so that my other dog doesn't trip around and loosen it. I need to figure that out first before I install everything properly. Thanks for the replies so far. Will look into JulesP's suggestion, though I am on a student budget at the moment. Pigtail posts look ideal but I'd need quite a few to go around the area.

Hi all, this is a rather embarrassing shout out for suggestions. I purchased a containment system for a dog that likes to leap high fences. I have 6ft colourbond fencing and thought that I'd lay the wire on the ground, but I don't know what to use to hold it in place. This is the first time I have to do something hands-on and it's a bit of a finicky challenge for me. Will something like metal pegs or stakes interfere with the signal? That's the only product I've looked at so far. Alternately, the instructions say that placing the wire at the neck level of the dog is most ideal, but I don't know how I'd attach the wire to the fence. The people at Bunnings were at a loss too. Grateful for your help.

Intriguing... I must investigate those. Here are my recs for bombproof toys. Trialled and tested with a lab and a stubborn staffy mastiff cross: Tuff cuz, good, bad and other guy. The softer animals ones like the fish didn't last long with the second dog around. The former are still going strong several months later, sans feet and squeaker. Bob-a-lot. Great for stretching meals out for over 30 minutes, mental exhaustion is good in this household! This one has heaps of chew marks, but no cracks and still stays upright one year later. A definite keeper. I clean it with warm water and bicarb. Aussie Dog Home Alone. Bought for Dog 2 who is obsessed with it and has to be monitored because his determination to pull it down from the tree can be heard across several streets. Pricey, but worth it as a toy for dogs who destroy everything. Kong ball. Better than the rubber Chuck-its (lasted only one month, with monitored play sessions). Know that it will last for years, given its material. I'm keen to try out the Kygen invisibles... my dogs go nuts for squeaky toys. Just worried about its durability because Dog 2 is a major chewer and capable of destroying anything.

Just recommending the one that I always send my dogs to so your client has more choice location-wise. I haven't inspected the premises, but the designated playing grounds are nice and my dogs never come back scarred for life (even the neurotic one) so I imagine they treat them well! www.bestfriendpetcentre.com.au - Parkwood Road, Macgregor - (02) 6254 6399

I have nothing but admiration and respect for compassionate and kind-hearted vets and vet nurses. It would have made all the difference to my family when dealing with the passing of my first dog. At least I know who to call now when it's time to say goodbye to the next one. Last year my lab had a minor rumble with a car. Of the people who stopped for her, one was a young vet nurse who popped her in the car with a towel and took her to work. All the staff at the emergency clinic were excellent, they kept us informed at all times. We ended up leaving a batch of brownies for her/them when we picked her up.

Yes, seconded!, I would love to be more of a responsible pet owner and have my dogs toilet in the yard prior to going out on their walks and runs. Especially prior to their runs- I need to get fit! And partly because we compost or bury their poo - I hate dumping it in bins. Their toilet times are presently very unpredictable. actually you can It's just a matter of training them to go ON COMMAND .. and then,when walking, there is no peeing or pooing except where YOU want them to go . I trained many many dogs to do this, when doing Guide dog training ...as a lot of guide dogs go to work ..and at pee breaks , there is often only a small area in which toileting is possible/permitted. Must admit- seeing dogs peeing everywhere when walking is a pet hate of mine

I agree with the others re a behaviourist and containment system with a pen as an additional option. I forked out $600 for a pen for my escape artist and tried to train him to like it i.e. gradual baby steps. Most of the time he hated being 'cooped up' and found several ways to escape. One lady in my suburb has come across him about seven times and has always kindly kept him at her place until I've been able to dash back to pick him up. It took him over six months to stop kicking up a fuss and he will now stay quiet and put (until we get home!), but a containment system would give him access to the other dog, the yard and sunshine. Best of luck, I know exactly what your sister is going through! I hope it works sooner than later.

Amazing, thank you for sharing. I love seeing the different places that rescues end up in.

It's even more fun when it rains in winter...sigh.

Hi guys, I have a rather bombproof female labrador and another male dog that probably has staffy heritage. I got the male from the pound just over 12 months ago and have been monitoring his behaviour with my lab (who I've had since a pup). In the beginning, they would play, and then he would terrify her by literally turning on her and chasing her around the yard. This dog was quite fearful in general and expressed it by 'acting out' and trying to be dominant. He has settled over time and relations between them have improved. I still have a lot of trouble though, telling the difference between their rough play and something more intimidating. There is a lot of mouthing, growling, neck grabbing and both exhibit submissiveness by lying down/rolling over intermittently. The lab raises her hackles whenever she is excited so that also makes it difficult! He has also started trying to mount her again- is that something I need to be concerned about? Both are four years old and desexed. I'm not very savvy at interpreting dog body behaviour and want to recognise when, and how, I should intervene on the lab's behalf. Assistance greatly appreciated.

I have the Bob a Lot! Its biggest pro for me is the durability as very few things survive one of my dogs. There are teeth marks gnawed all over the top, but it works just fine and he's never been able to unscrew it or damage the main part. It's great that you can adjust it in two places for ease of access/difficulty. I use it mainly to tire out my dog. But yes, it is heavy and noise levels go up considerably if the dog is bashing it against the colourbond, as mine is often likely to do.

Brodie: ......and then you go 'wheeeeee.....'! Reuben: Uhhh, dude....she's filming us again...... Not so much funny as delightful.

Dignity. Always dignity.

Control Unleashed is one of the best books I've read- completely applicable to my loony dog, there are several games which are incredibly helpful and the methods make sense. Though bear in mind that training should not be when the dog is hyperactive and unable to focus at all. I usually get all my books from Book Depository, they accept PayPal, I think.

Any tips on how to encourge the worms to take to the poo? I have one farm for kitchen scraps and one solely for poo but they hardly ever touch the latter . There are about 2000 worms in each colony.

I would not walk straight into a pound and adopt immediately. Some people strike it lucky and find their heart dog. I did not. Mine had been given a positive temp assessment by rescuers and I went to meet him with my other dog on that basis and the photos of a smiley relaxed looking dog. They got along quite fine and I adopted him. That was in October last year and since then, he has turned out to be a very tense clingy dog. Trainable yes, slowly, but has an unhealthy obsession with balls and a drive-mode that is difficult to control, hates being left alone, panicky, prone to leaping 2m fences and roams around with a perpetually stressed look on his face, mouth clamped and sniffing a lot. It has been a long learning process but the communication between my two dogs is actually quite incompatible and they are usually under surveillance because the male acts out and over the top if feeling very pressured and the female is inept at reading his body language and likes to invade his space persistently. They both receive training to manage and mitigate mishaps and learn proper manners. I've coped with the aid of a behaviouralist, and I have much admiration for those rescuers who take poundies, however I will never pull one directly out of the pound again myself. Reputable rescue groups or rehomes from ethical breeder all the way, due to their experience and the fact that someone can say how they are in a home environment and whether they are suited to being alone or require constant company. I do love this dog and I will stand by him, however he has cost a lot more in terms of time and money than I ever expected. My dog is, in hindsight, better suited to a patient, experienced person who stays at home and has the time to anticipate and micro-manage his multiple issues, because he is an incredibly hard one to read at times.

I have a mastiff x compulsive chewer/ball-obsessive. Here's our list of fatalities and survivors: Fatalities Rubber Chuckit ball - destroyed while under supervision, though it lasted much longer than the average tennis ball Tuff Cuz fish - easily gone within a week Survivors Tuff Cuz ball with legs - squeaker was destroyed within 20 minutes of introduction, but still intact beside one large hole Bob a Lot (another treat toy) - pockmarked with bites, but remains unbroken Black Kong - fine, but only because he isn't interested in it after food has successfully been extracted. I think it's the shape and the fact that it doesn't bounce effectively for him. Everlasting Treat Ball is a clear winner - almost looks the same as when I purchased it months ago, bar teeth scratches If you go with the Everlasting range (of varying toughness), make sure the toy is large enough to be challenging for the dog to get the treats out and difficult to wrap its mouth around. My dog popped the Everlasting Screw Treat out in 1 minute with the Medium and 5 minutes with the Large (the treats didn't process well either and caused a major stink at toilet time). Now I just stuff it with large kibble and it takes 10-15 minutes for him to get them out.