aussielover

The dog was bred in QLD by a registered breeder. The dog (and all the papers etc) was then transferred to Guide Dogs NSW (and possibly to DogsNSW). Upon transfer of ownership from Guide dogs to myself, no registration/pedigree papers were given (only microchip details) and the person I spoke to said that was all they had??? So if I wanted to chase up the pedigree papers, I would have to get Guide Dogs to look further into the matter and I am sure they have better things to do- so I would rather not bother them unless it will affect if my dog can compete in certain dog sports. Unless anyone has any other suggetsions on how I can get the papers- eg can i contact Dogs QLD or DOgsNSW directly? ETA- sorry probably should nhave been clearer but didn't want to make a really longwinded post- which i have now done )

I would like one that can keep my iphone (which is pretty big) and car keys (also very fat) as well as a good amount of treats and a tug and/or a ball and poo bags. I'm not to fussed with look, but it has to be easy to access. Also a washable liner would be an added bonus for me. I have one I am quite happy with at the moment, the only problem is the front pocket (where I put my keys and phone) is not secure and the items can plop out especially if the bag is full.

Would it rule her out of retrieving trials (shes a lab)? Can you change a dog from associate to limited register?

What is the advantage of having a main or limited registered dog (ie Purebred)? I'm particularly interested in dog sports. To compete you have to be registered with DOgs NSW or your state equivalent. Does it matter whether you register on associate? My dog is purebred and presumably has purebred papers (both parents reg) and I've spoken with the breeder who says the litter was registered with DogsQLD but due to complicated circumstances, I would have to go to quite some effort to get hold of the registration and papers. Is there any extra benefit of being on main or limited register that would justify the effort (apart from using the kennel name and fancy show name :D)? AT the moment I am thinking of just putting her on associate register so she can compete.

My dog sleeps on my bed, but not in it. I would find it a little weird if she was actually in the bed with me- she's enough of a bed hog already

I would get the 10m line. Then you can practice distance recalls more easily. I think there are mixed opinions about running on sand. It certainly builds muscle, but being so soft and moveable it may cause extra motion in the joints. It is better than concrete though!

You might like to use a toy for their training reward if they like playing fetch or tug. I have found amazingly that my lab actually works better for her special tug toy! You can also use their dry food as training treats instead of giving it to them in a bowl. I also agree with what RSG recommended. My lab girl gets a meaty bone in the morning, then a cup of dry food with some veges. I sometimes take out some of her dry food for training, otherwise I use pieces of apple which is very low fat (and tasty). She also gets yummy training treats (cabanossi, twiggy stick, roast lamb/veal etc) for obedience and agility days and recall training.

Hi Olivebaby, I recommend one of these long lines: Awesome Long Lines I don't actually have one myself as I can't afford it at the moment and I already had a lunge lead for horses which I use for recall training. My lab swims in the sea almost every day. I don't wash her after (I only wash her about every 2 weeks to once a month). If anything it seems to have helped with her allergies and itchiness. Labs were bred to retrieve fishing nets from the sea so their coat is pretty hardy!

Oh sorry, misunderstood you, thought he was running off after the exercises. Yeah I guess the best thing would be to work on recall and focus. At least he doesn't run over and try to play with the other dogs (or attack them). Do you run him before class? I try to make sure i've at least given Mindy a 20 min run before the class starts so she is not too hyper.

Just a warning if you're thinking of hiring a dog walker- be sure to check them out carefully as some are really dodgy. I've had some incidents in the last few days with them (I am on holiday so walking my dog at the same time as them). Firstly, quite a few of them seem to disregard the law that says you can only walk 4 dogs at a time. I've seen some with up to 9 dogs Of course, its almost impossible to be in control of 9 dogs and be on poo patrol for all 9 dogs. Many of them also don't pick up their dogs poo, even when they actually observe the dog going. I pointed this out to one of them and they denied their dog had done it!!! Some seem to be walking out of control/borderline aggressive dogs. Today my dog had a massive dog run up to her and dominate her (made her submit and then stood over and would not let her up). This dog also stole another dogs ball and destroyed it! The dog walker ignored the whole thing, leaving the other owner and I gobsmacked. Another incident yesterday where Mindy and I were walking on lead, as required by the law on a bush track which was signposted to keep dogs on lead to protect wildlife, plants etc. A walker had all 5 of her dogs off lead, 3 of which ran up barking to us, she then proceeded to march off but one of the dogs did not follow and was blocking our path. The walker called it once and then walked off, did not even bother to come get the dog. Luckily it was friendly (also very fearful) and I was left with this dog harassing mine. The dog was way out of sight of the walker who I estimate was about 1km ahead, which I think is really bad. The dog eventually ran off and caught up with the dog walker as I saw them again at the park all together again. Also the travel arrangements worry me, one lady had 7 dogs literally piled into a 4WD, no restraint What would happen if they got into a fight pr jumped on her lap??? Most of the others have a van with a division but the dogs are just put in all thogether. And yes I will be/have reported these people. This post was just intended as a warning to anyone considering using a dog walker. I hope I haven't completely put anyoe off because there are definitely some great ones out there. I don't regularly use one, but the one we have used a few times is terrific- only takes 4 dogs at a time, dogs are all crated individually in the van, actually trains/plays/interacts with the dogs on the walk (unlike some of just talk on their phones and drink coffee). Just be careful of who you choose.

Sounds like a reasonable amount of exercise to me. I think some people take exercise restriction too far. I met one person with a lab that was told by the breeder the dog couldn't be exercised at all until it was 12 months old Of course the dog was extremely hyper and would jump around heaps- so probably doing more damage by all that jumping than a 20 min trip to the park!!! I think a general rule is 5 mins forced exercise (eg leash walking) per age in months. So if Olive is 5 months she could be getting 25 mins of leash walking. Ball throwing is not ideal for the joints, but I guess you have to balance the enoyment they get from it, with the risk. I didn't start ball throwing with Mindy until she was around a year. My Aussie shep was ball obsessed and unfortunately paid the price as an older dog, getting severe arthritis in her elbows at age 11.

Maybe keep him on lead in between exercises? I wouldn't reprimand him for using the equipment. I do find it a bit annoying when people lose control of their dogs at training (but bound to happen I suppose) because one time another dog came flying into my dog just as she was about to go into the tunnel, knocking her to the ground. Ever since, tunnels have been a struggle- once shes in, shes fine, but she doesn't seem keen on going into tunnels, which she used to love I always make sure I have her reward ready at the end of an exercise so I can distract her from running off. We either play a game in between exercises or I'll put her on lead.

Great weaving RS!!! Millie is so cute! What is the best way to teach weaving? We go to 2 clubs and they use different methods- is that a problem? One uses the poles placed at an angle so the dogs run thru a channel- eventually the poles will be moved more upright but we aren't at that level yet. The other uses flaps on the side of the weaves to guide the dogs thru. Personally i like the second method better, as i can see my dog working out that she actually has to weave around the poles, where as with the first method she just runs straight thru without really thinking. I've also heard the 2x2 method is good and other people have told me that luring the dogs thru the weaves works well (their dogs are pretty good weavers).

We had our first obedience training session last night. It was actually really good, run by the same club as our agility classes, so they knew us and we didn't have to start in beginners (which is horrifically boring) thank god. How do you get good focus during a heel (ie dog looking at you)? My dog has been trained to look ahead not at me. She did really well last night, focussing on me 50% of the time but I think she was kind of unsure as she kept looking at me and then looking ahead and then back at me. I marked and rewarded her looking at me. Is it just a matter of practicing in really short bursts and building up from there? Any other suggestions on how I can retrain her heel?

Because you know it is the right thing to do. It is not the dogs fault it has a crappy owner. It is not right to make the dog suffer in order to punish your auntie or teach her a lesson or even to make a point to her. I am a little suprised at your attitude- you seem to love Shelley a lot but can't seem to find any compassion for poor Lady.

Interceptor Does interceptor come as chews or a tablet? And is it just Heartgard that's affected, or is it also Valuheart, the generic version? (I use Heartgard for one dog and Valueheart for the other due to the little one's refusal to eat any tablets even if they're chewable.) Interceptor comes as chews. They are not very palatable though, even my labrador rejects them! It is not clear whether it is the formulation of heartguard or the active ingredient (ivermectin) that is the problem. Also, not clear whether it is only north america that is affected- ie their heartwoms are becoming resistant.

The op said it was a public park??? If someone wishes to train their dog in prey drive using a tug reward then that's their business. Why shouldn't they be able to do this around other dogs, at a dog club? The OP is not refering to uncontrolled play in some random offleash park. She was attempting to warm her dog up in a fenced training area. I actually am not sure what is is now I assumed it was a public training area but who knows, it may be for club members only, though I have no idea which club as quite a few use the grounds. I've trained my dog with a tug in groups training situations before and never had any issues with other dogs. I guess those dogs are probably better behaved and under control compared to the average dog though.

I would move out for the sake of my dog. If that is not possible, maybe try and train Lady yourself? It sounds like she is a bit neglected and would benefit and maybe even enjoy some training. I'd give her a nice bath, take her out and play with her and do some training. Perhaps that will make her tires and want to bark less?

I like leather leads. I am currently saving up for this one: Leather leash These ones are really soft and strong. Currently I have a cotton lead which is not as good as when it gets wet it gets all gross and soggy. Also its easier for it to slip out of your hand. I agree with secretkei- get a cheap collar for now as your puppy will soon grow out of it. I find the ones with the dogs name and phone number embedded on are a good idea- good for my dog who likes swimming (the tag goes all rusty). I use this company http://www.pawfectstitch.com/ As their collars are nylon so more water resisntant.

I left a small amount of water in Mindy's crate. Not a full bowl, I used a smaller bowl and only filled it halfway. Any chance you can crate him next to your bed at night? I found this really helped my dog. She can now sleep downstairs by herself if required (but I prefer her in my room). Also really great for toilet training as they can let you know when they need to go.

I like halters for horses ;) I prefer to use collars (correction if required) or harnesses for dogs. If you do chose to use a halter make sure it as as comfortable fitting as possible. You also have to condition them to accept it- although for some dogs it remains a little annoying/aversive for ever (which is why I prefer correction collars- only aversive when the dog is doing the wrong thing). I do think you're a little misguided when you say check chains and prong collars are cruel. I used to think prong collars were cruel as well - they do look horrible don;t they? I've seen them used now and I can now see what a great tool they can be. I recommend you watch an experienced trainer work a dog in a prong before you totally dismiss it as being cruel. But you should use whatever tool you are most comfortable with. I would much rather see a dog being walked in a halti, than not being walked at all

Make a playdate with a boring older dog that will just walk away if the pup tries to play. Then start playing with your pup in a really exciting, fun way so he can see you are much more fun to be with. If you're really seroius about competing or training then this is the only interaction he should have with other dogs for the moment- neutral value for the adult dog (because its boring) and high value for you. I don't think dog parks are great places for socialisation for timid dogs, unless you can organise a group of nice dogs to be there. BTW I don't think you've done any irreversible damage to his training. My dog likes playing with her dog friends but knows when its time to work and won't get distracted by them (food and toys are much more exciting). She was quite distracted by them up until around 6 months then i started noticing an improvement in focussing on me. Now she's actually quite good and only wants to play with me even when there are many other dogs around (like obedience or agility training). Though she does have a Koolie boyfriend at agility that she likes playing with in breaks (when we allow it) but she's never run off a course or exercise to play with him.

Although I didn't actually ask to come in- I did say hi to the people from behind the gate and stood there while they scrambled to catch their dogs and hold them, which would have been an ideal time for them to tell me if there were any issues.... I guess I sort of assumed that the fact they were grabbing their dogs back from the gate and greeted me, meant they were ok with me bringing my dog in. In future I will be sure to ask- though I am not sure what i'd do if they said no It is a public area after all (I can't find anything to say its members only, even on the club website) and my dog has as much right to be there as any others. I've been there several times before and never had an issue. Serve me right for going to a fenced dog area I suppose

I was under the impression the area was a public fenced dog area. There were no signs saying it belonged to a particular club. I think a few clubs use the areas to train in but when they are not in use, I got the impression people just seemed to use them as a dog park.

Agree. There's a sign to that effect on the gates at my dog club. Can definitely cause resource guarding dust ups. She had her point but certainly didn't win you over expressing it. However if her dog couldn't be let off lead, why did it need to be in the fenced area? I'm afraid I do not agree. If your dogs are aggressive or potentially troublesome, they need to be under your control (ie NOT approach other dogs) or on a lead or not in a dog area at all. I did not have the intention of letting my dog run wild with other dogs she doesn't know in a confined area. I believe I should be allowed to use toys, food and tugs to train and play with my dog and not have other dogs pester us, or try to join in. My dog is not a resource guarder but even if she was, I believe it is the other owners fault for letting their dog approach another obviously training or pretty into playing with their ball/toy. Why should my dog be put out just because others can't control theirs? Anyway if she was agggressive or a rescourse guarder, then no way would I bring her to an enclosed dog area and bring her toys.