aussielover

It is normal for dogs to eat grass and plants. They do it for various reasons- they might be feeling sick, they might like the taste etc but it is rarely because of a deficiency in the diet, especially if you are feeding a commercially prepared food like eukanuba.

I think its way too many questions! But having said that; breeders and rescue groups often have similar questionnaires that they expect potential owners to fill in, so I think it is fair to ask them, especially as you're new to doing this. If I was the breeder I wouldn't be put off, but I wouldn't individually answer each question; probably just give you a paragraph or two about my breeding program and dogs (how I raise them etc) and a bit about the breed.

Dictionary definitions do not always reflect interpretations by the general public. Dog mauls girl is a sensational heading, designed to shock and arouse emotions. The same incidient could be described as dog bites girl; which is an accurate despcription of what happended without the added sensation. I am simply stating what the surgery could be- no where did I say it trivial or not serious. I don't know why you are getting so worked up about this. I am simply stating my opinion, you are of course entitled to yours. I think most people here are mature enough to come to their own conclusions about the nature of this incident.

Take him out separately from you other dog, especially if it stresses him having the other dog around. Take him on a lead to a desginated toilet area. Walk wround on circles to encourage him to toilet. Wait 10-15 minutes if need be. If he still doesn't go, take him inside, put him in a crate if you have one or a small confined area for 30 minutes (they are less likely to go in a crate or small space- unless they've been raised to toilet in their bedding area eg petshop) and then take him out again and repeat. If he does go- HUGE praise, give him a reward like food or a toy/game. Play with him for a bit outside after if conditions permit. Also helps to start putting a cue on toileting- as he starts going say something like "go toilet" "hurry up" etc. Puppies generally need to toilet when they wake up, after eating and after playing. These are times you are likely to have success with him toileting outside. They also need to toilet every 30-60 mins when they are awake and active and depending on the puppy, around every 4 hours when sleeping (but this can vary hugely- some pups can hold for up to 8-10 hours, some for only 2) Good luck!

Campylobacter is a bacteria. You can get mild cases of Parvo. Vaccination may interfere with parvo tests and you can get false positives. The clinical signs you describe are very general and could be anything really from stress to corona, parasites or parvo. I would be inclined to treat it as if she did have parvo re disinfectiuon of your house just to be safe.

Mauling to me implies a repeated attack, rather than a one off bite (even if it has serious consequences). I also think of a situation where the dog runs over the child and unprovoked, attacks the child repeatedly, where as in this case this is not what has happended at all. Obviously a one bite alone to a young child is enough to cause serious injury. Facial surgery could simply be debridement and suturing under GA. Poor girl, and poor dog both victims of an irresponsible owner

I have no problems if a dog gives a warning display/telling off (so long as no actually injury is caused)if another dog comes running up to it, whilt they are minding their own business or focussed on the owner or a game. I would not correct my dog for doing that, nor would I stop taking her out or muzzle her. I often see that people with puppies or out of control dogs get shocked when this happens and think the other dog is aggressive, when really its not, and they should be controlling their dog. Of course if the dog starts fights, runs over to others to provoke, attack or intimidate them, doesn't recall etc that is unacceptable and the dog shouldn't be allowed off leash. Not really sure what situation Deejay is describing, so can't really comment on whether its appropriate or not for her dog to be off leash.

I totally agree with this. Although it would be ideal if breeders could take their dogs back or help rehome, sometimes it isn't possible and I believe it is fully the current owners responsibility to rehome the dog, no matter what the reason.

I think you are absolutely justified to find a vet that you like and respect their opinion. After all you are entrusting a family member's care to them. i do the same with doctors and sadly I haven't had any luck yet(not that I ever really need to go to the doctors luckily!!)

I would hardly call that situation a "mauling" The owner was totally irresponsible and the whole thing could have been prevented if the owner had actually obeyed the law. Its a shame the dog was put in the situation and is now facing euthanasia due to its owners stupid actions. Many dogs won't tolerate being hugged by a stranger, I don't find it unusual that a dog would respond in this way, although I am sure many dogs would only give a warning nip not a full on bite

Yes I hate ticks. They can still get them with preventatives and daily checks. I know of a few dogs that have gotten them even on prevention, even an 8 week old puppy who was on prevenation and hadn't even been out of its own backyard. Sounds like you were quick to recognise the symptoms and get treatment which is the best thing you can do in these situations.

I forgot a Bearded Collie. Friends have a beardie in a similar situation as yours. They live in surburbia during the week, farm on weekends. Coat care is more than I personally would be prepared to do, but daily brushing would be more than adequate. When they aren't done up for show, Beardies look a lot like old english sheepdogs except smaller and not as hariy

Another vote for Aussies Though potentially a number of other breeds could be suitable including Border Collies, Koolies, Kelpies, Labradors, GSP, Weim etc depending on what you like. Are you looking for a long coated breed? Are you looking for an outside only dog?

Hope he gets better soon. I don't really like to comment on prognosis because it really depends on the dog, but if they require ventilation the prognosis is poorer and often is cost-prohibitive. It is also important to remember that the anti-toxin only bind free toxin in the system (so minimising progression of symptoms)- it cannot reverse symptoms and the dog may continue to get worse for a period after. The toxin causes paralysis of skeletal muscle, rather than constriction of airways and dogs may require help breathing due to paralysis of muscles invloved with breathing. Having said this, dogs often recover well from tick paralysis. Sending good vibes for your boy.

Malaseb is a medicated shampoo... Aloveen or Natural are the two non medicated shampoos from the same brand that makes Malaseb. I don't find malaseb overly soothing, its really only helpful if yeast or bacteria is the cause of the itch.

and people...

I don't know how long your classes run for but time and distraction has to be built up. I would much rather have a great session only lasting 5 mintues than a 30 min session with a distracted, inattentive, bored dog. I'm not a fan of most traditionally run obedience classes where dogs are expected to work for up to an hour with very few breaks. Personally if you're serious about obedience trialling then I'd be practicing at home in short sessions and only using a club for distraction work once my dog fully understands what is expected of it. If you are just interested in obedience for fun- keep it that way- make sure the sessions are fun, take regular breaks, reward frequently etc. If your club won't allow you to do this- switch clubs. Your dog can easily tell if you;re getting frustrated or bored yourself and will respond accordingly. I quit our obedience club after one session when my dog was a puppy (4 months) as she was just too distracted- kept wanting to sniff, play with other dogs etc. I did training at home and then took her back 6 months later where she has done well ever since- she has very little desire to interact with the other dogs there and is focussed on trying to get her reward from me.

As much as they love her, I think the twice a year coat blow puts them off. I am so over all these people that want a dog but cannot be bothered brushing it. There are so many lovely long coated breeds that simply get overlooked because of the current fad to get a non-shedding dog. The long coats are so much better shedding wise than many of the short coats. I will never again own a Lab or anythign with a similar coat because that is just too much shedding for me but my BCs, Aussies, Collies, Shelties and many of the Spitz breeds are easy care long coats and when they shed it comes out in easy to pick up lumps, not one hair at a time that gets into everything. I think it is good they are realistic about their desire to groom it. Personally I have found my Lab so much easier when it comes to grooming and bathing compared to my aussie and I would find it hard to go back to a longer haired breed now. They are about equal for shedding, but obviously shedding doesn't bother me at all! Long coated breeds do require more coat care, there is no question about it. You can't never groom a medium long/coated dog, where as you could get away with never grooming a short coated breed as they just can't physically matt! Non shedding breeds also require more coat care, even more than a long haired breed. I understand that some people have allergies and a non shedding breed may be more suitable for them but this shouldn't be confused with amount of coat maintenance required.

Mindy's litter was specific for guide dogs and they all turned out to be terrors!

Not allowed on the couch: Technically not on the couch

Thanks for your advice. I have decided not to clip at this stage and just do advantix and permoxin spray and of course tick searches daily. Her tummy and chest is already clipped up from her surgery and her skin has gone dry and a bit flaky there so I don't think clipping is a good idea.

Maybe try a chewable worming tablet. Glad he is feeling better

Funny you should post this today. Just a few hrs ago mindy was jumping around and got stuck on a chair and hung herself. Luckily I was with her at the time and it was no big issue. I hate to think what would have happened if I wasnt there. A good lesson not to leave a dog unsupervised with a collar on. We are able to find the majority of lost dogs thru their microchip now anyway.

Maybe you could foster for guide dogs or assistance dogs (provided you meet their criteria) that way you can experience what it is like having a lab puppy, get the support you need and if you're not coping, the organisation can help out and even rehome if needed. The downside is that you do get very attached and its very sad when you have to give them up but a very worthwhile cause. I have puppy raised for guide dogs (my puppy had health problems so didn't make it- but we got to keep her ) and I think the work they do is great, they also give you good support, regular visits etc. I know a number of young families who have gone down this route, raised a guide dog or assistance dog successfully and then gone on to get their own labrador. Depending on your state I think most asistance/guide dogs orgs require you to be at home most of the day (can't leave them for more than 3-4 hours) and also allow the puppy to have some inside time.

They are definitely useful but not essential. Depends on the dog really. Our Aussie shepherd was never really crate trained and was always well behaved in the house. She even flew to the UK with us, no problems adjusting to the crate for the long flight. I would be inclined to get one for a lab. Depending on how boisterous the puppy is, it is a good way to calm them down and give yoruself a bit of a break, not to mention useful for confinement for injury/illness and for competitions etc. If I get another pup I am going to get a smaller wire or hard plastic crate so it can't chew thru. I'll get a smaller crate so it is easily transportable eg. car and moving it around the house, the large wire ones are a pain to carry around and move. When it grows up and is crate trained (shouldn't take more than a few months) then I'll get a full size soft crate as they are also easy to move around with and more visually appealing (imo) I have a large soft crate for my lab. She was trained in a wire crate. She settles well in her crate and seems to quite like it