aussielover

Are protection trained dogs, not trained to attack (obviously in the appropriate situation)??? Isn't that the whole point of getting a protection dog? The difference between a dog barking and carrying on (which most dog will do eaisly) and actually engaging in a confrontation?

I think a puppy course for puppies 8 weeks to 12/16 weeks is ideal. Most courses last one month, and although it's probably not long enough for the average person, it is better than nothing. I think puppy classes for puppies 12 weeks-12months are also a good idea. We have a number of trainers in our area offering this and it has been quite successful as 4 months-8months is generally the time when a lot of people struggle to cope as their puppies start to push the boundaries. Some trainers have also started offering socialisation classes for older dogs (1yr +), where they do some very basic obedience, trick training, general manners and off leash work, this has also been quite popular in our area. This is becoming more popular than formal obedience (which is not very well attended) as it is seen as more "fun" and more practical. So I guess I think offering a variety of classes is probably a good idea, that way people can choose according to their needs.

There are lots of different causes for collapse. Given his history though, EIC could be a more likely possibility. How old is this dog? Is this dog quite highly strung??? Some dogs may be affected but if they're never placed in a highly stressful situation, they may never have an episode. Usually it is associated with periods of intense exercise/excitement/stress, like field trial training or running next to a bicycle etc. They say that even agility training is usually not intense enough to cause signs in most animals. Some very highly strung individuals may have episodes more frequently and under less stress/exercise. Your vet can test for EIC, they need a DNA sample and they can send it off the the lab.

I feel quite safe walking with my 25kg black labrador. Most people wouldn't risk being attacked by dog just to steal your wallet etc. I also felt quite safe walking with my aussie shepherd, but not so much with my poodle cross. I think any large breed dog offers protection just based on looks alone. You probably don't want a dog that's going to go nuts every time someone approaches you in a seemingly threatening manner. If you actually want an attack trained dog, then a GSD, Malinois, Rottie, Dobe etc would be your best bet as well as working with a qualified trainer.

Could somebody please explain what layering actually is??? My current understanding (which is probably incorrect) is that it is when there are obstacles in between you and the actual obstacles you want you dog to take.

If you just want a dog to look intimidating and bark when people come to the house, then desexing shouldn't make any difference. My female desexed labrador barks when people come to the door and would be intimidating enough to put off most opportunistic burglars or unwanted people. Obviously a Cane corso, desexed or entire is going to be pretty scary to the average person. It is very easy to train a dog to bark when someone comes to the house. If you're after a serious protection-trained dog, then most trainers would recommend keeping the dog entire. For actual attack work, I believe entire dogs are favoured. Please bear in mind that if you have a dog that is trained to attack people, it has be be kept under certain regulations. If you have a "pet" dog that attacks an uninvited person, it is up to the council as to the consequences. Hopefully they would be reasonable but there have been cases of dogs being declared dangerous for attacking intruders.

I generally like working breeds, however being in a job where I get to see many different types of dogs I have learnt that there are good and bad dogs in every breed. I prefer to judge the dog as an individual not based on breed. Some really lovely dogs have totally changed my mind about a certain breed, so I'd wouldn't say there is any one breed I don't like. However, there are certain breeds that I would be unlikely to own as they just don't fit into my lifestyle and it wouldn't be fair on either of us.

I would use interceptor + advantix if you want full coverage (heartworm, intestinal worms, fleas, ticks) However, I personally choose to use advantix + monthly heartguard. I do not use an intestinal wormer regularly. I believe heartguard plus also covers hookworms and roundworms, so that could be another option. None of these cover tapeworms, you would need to use droncit if you wanted tapeworm coverage.

Hehe Yes, intelligence does NOT equal obedience!!!!!

I repeat commands but it depends on the situation as to how I would do it. I would only repeat it a maximum of 3 times generally though. Also depends on whether I think the dog understands what I am asking. I've been told to keep my mouth shut in agility though :laugh: I don't think a lot of noise helps my dog understand what is required. I've noticed she runs in a much more focussed way and faster when i make the effort to not talk as much.

I personally believe puppy vaccinations are essential. I have seen a number of cases where herbal products or "alternative" treatments were given instead of puppy vaccs were given, with the final result of the puppies contracting parvovirus and requiring intensive care and even then, some died. I get my dog titre tested which is really currently the only way you can tell if your dog has adequate antibody protection. It isn't 100% guarantee that your dog has adequate immunity and some dogs will have low titres but still be immunocompetent against certain viruses. However, it is the best guide we currently have. Titre testing is the same cost and in some cases cheaper than vaccination. I agree it is irresponsible to suggest that dogs shouldn't be vaccinated at all. There is a small risk that a dog or human will have an adverse reaction to a vaccine, and and even tinier chance it will be a serious adverse reaction. How is orthopedic disease related to vaccination (as one vet claims) and where is the evidence based research to support this?

TBH I think "intelligence" and "non shedding" can be overrated. To me, intelligence is fine, if you know what you're doing and you're smarter than your dog and can provide appropriate opportunities for the dog to exercise its intelligence. If your dog is highly intelligent you need to work harder to keep it satisfied. As for non shedding, whilst you get rid of one problem, you also have the problem of the need for frequent clipping and grooming, which is fine if you enjoy it but plenty of oodles are advertised as being "low maintenance" which is very misleading. There is also a reason why poodles feet and faces are usually clipped short. I do not understand why people get a poodle cross because they wanted "the intelligence/personality of a poodle without looking like one" To me pretty much all oodles look very similar to poodles (no offence poodle people) and look no less "girly" than a purebred poodle in the fact they are usually fluffy and curly coated. Most of the lab x poodle you see, have very little resemblance to a Labrador so honestly, why bother crossing them in the first place?

peristalsis (sp) means; ???? Vomiting is a reflex action, whereas You sound like my Vet. :D But reverse peristalsis, or retroperistalsis is certainly involved in the vomiting reflex and is the reason why in true vomiting (as opposed to regurg) you may see bile staining as the contents of the proximal duodenum are also ejected. However, it does not mean that the gut is constantly in reverse peristalsis and the animal won't be able to hold fluids down (obviously this can happen and is a serious situation which requires medical attention) I do not think withholding fluids from a dog with vomiting or diarhhoea is a good idea. If it is so severe that the pup can't keep any fluids down they need to be at the vet, on intravenous fluids. Especially when they have concurrent diarhhoea and ongoing fluid losses from this as well. Witholding food for 24 hours is fine, then start back on small bland meals frequently (like chicken and rice or similar). I would be concerned if my dog had continual vomiting to the point where it couldn't keep water down. One or two vomits doesn't usually concern me as long as she is still drinking and urinating fine and appears to be alert and responsive and interested in food (although even though my dog was on death's door, she was still interested in food when offered, so I don't take this as meaning all is ok anymore!). I usually withold food for 8-12 hours if I think its a simple GIT upset or dietary indiscretion. Vomiting and very watery diarhhoea would concern me slightly more. ETA= didn't see your update Glad your vet was able to advise and glad your pup is doing better.

There is a labradoodley thing that comes to our local park and just runs wild, jumping on people, annoying other dogs, barking incessantly etc. The owner is oblivious to its bad behaviour and actually thinks its cute. It was annoying the crap out of my dog who just wanted to play with her ball (biting her legs, tail, ear etc) luckily she is a very patient dog. The owner actually got annoyed at my dog for not playing with her dog and suggested that I put the ball away so the two dogs could play together?! Because her dog really NEEDED to play with another dog. Really took a lot of my self control to remain calm and politely tell her that I didn't think that was the solution, even if I put the ball away, my dog was not in the mood to be playing with another dog as she generally doesn't play with dogs she doesn't already know and would just follow me around and look adoringly at me until i threw the ball again. I then got told she was a boring dog, and it was a shame she was missing out on the socialisation. I'd rather her be "boring" than be a nuisance. Also this dog was extremely muddy and dirty and jumped all over me. Absolutely no apology from the owner. Obviously I accept that dogs do get dirty and you should never wear nice clothes to a dog park but seriously I try to stop my dog jumping all over people and I would profusely apologise if she were to be wet and muddy and jump all over someone and dirty their clothes even if they were "ugly" dog park clothes anyway. And yes I have had the breed specific dog haters or large dog haters, who think its acceptable and even funny when their tiny dog attacks my dog and then blames her for being XXX breed or "my dog was once attacked by a xxx breed or large dog" and your point being??? SO now your dog has attacked mine, its ok for her to attack all small white fluffies (or whatever breed they are?) People are not willing to accept responsibilities for their own (and therefore their dog's) actions. My dog is by no means perfect, and I struggled with her when she was a puppy however, I have found an apology goes a long way to rectifying a situation.

Personally I wouldn't take a highly reactive dog to a typical group obedience class. I train at a club that does have good rules- all dogs on lead at all times, it is recommended not to let your dog approach another dog without asking, but of course many people, especially new members ignore this rule. Also its sort of sensory overload even for dogs that are not reactive. Perhaps if you could arrange to work by yourself at a larger distance from the main groups it may work? I know sometimes the instructors will help out a person with a reactive dog one on one which is great but depends on number of instructors available. Also being a top obedience/dog sport competitor or instructor doesn't necessarily equal being a top behaviourist. Good luck with K9pro!

Surgery is not indicated for a grade 1 luxating patella, and is controversial for a grade 2 luxating patella. Someone said that the vet simply fiddling around with the leg is not sufficient to diagnose LP. I guess it depends what you mean by "fiddling around" but luxating patella CAN be diagnosed by palpation alone. In a dog with a normal patella, the patella will not be able to be manually luxated at all. This is a quick summary of the grades if anyone is interested Grade I: The kneecap can be moved out of place manually but will fall back into its natural position once the manipulator lets go. Grade 2: Same thing except that the kneecap does not move back to its normal position when the manipulator lets go. Grade 3: The patella is out of place all the time but can be manipulated back into its normal position manually (though it will not stay there). Grade 4: The patella is not only out of place all the time but cannot even be manipulated back into place by hand. The OP needs to see an orthopedic specialist or at least get a second opinion from another vet. Grade 1 luxating patella may not cause the dog any serious issues ever in its life, although as with any dog with health issues- should not be bred from if you want to try and minimise the incidence in the breed.

Agree. This was not a freak accident- it could have easily been prevented if the parents of the child had adequately supervised her. It is not responsible to let a 4 year old wander into other peoples garden/houses. I am not saying one must watch a child 24/7, but you must at least, have measures in place to keep you child contained on your property. What if they get hit by a car or kidnapped? Dog attack would be the least of my worries in letting a 4 year old wander the streets by themselves. I really feel for the poor little girl who was killed, as well as the dogs involved and the owner of the dogs.

The pit bull made an unprovoked attack on child, chased her into her home and KILLED her. The Goldie attacked it's family in extenuating circumstances. Sure, poor previous training probably contributed but Busta never killed anyone and was known by the neighbourhood as a placid and friendly dog. Two entirely different situations where breed had nothing to do with it. I don't see any double standards??? I'm pretty sure that most people would agree any dog who attacks someone and actually kills them should be PTS or at the very least be declared dangerous and put through an extensive behavioural assessment and rehab program. Anyway, RIP Busta, steve and family- sorry for your loss and thanks for giving busta the opportunity to live out his last days in such a happy environment.

We can't really comment objectively as we don't actually know what happened. We don't know if it was a sustained attack or a defensive snap (which can still cause significant damage). I disagree that a "well tempered" dog won't just snap- it really depends on how they're feeling on the day, the dog may ave been painful, sick, stressed etc, however personally I would hope my dog give a growl or warning nip at worst rather than a full on bite. I really feel for the little boy who was injured and hope he makes a speedy recovery.

I think in theory it is possible that the dog could be declared dangerous. If the council is particularly harsh or anti-dog, they could probably declare the dog. Most councils are fairly reasonable though and any reasonable person would see that there was very little the owner of the dog could realistically do to prevent the incident. The owner of the cat on the other hand could have easily kept their pet contained to their own property (as is required by law?) and the incident wouldn't of happened at all. I would not advise the owner of the dog to pay the vet bills. They are not at fault, the cat's owners are. Paying the vet bill may be seen as an admission on liability, even if they have a statement saying otherwise. I hope your friend has a good outcome. BTW is there a law requiring cat owners to keep cats contained on their own property?

How did the first vet reach the diagnosis of osteosarcoma? You really need a biopsy to be 100% about what specific type of tumour it is. An osetosarc as CnR said, is highly malignant intimately involved in the bone and arises from it- you can't simply scrape away cells, as it is likely to very quickly grow back and may even grow back more aggressively. Other types of tumour may be more amenable to removal without involving the jaw bone itself. I wish Rogan all the best, please make sure you have the correct diagnosis before proceeding with any further treatments or make any tough decisions.

I don't find it acceptable but at the same time, I think people should control their dogs so that they don't run up to other people begging for treats. If you allow your dog to do that, you can hardly whinge about people giving treats to your dog!

Luckily I never had the situation where I have been seriously scared of a dog rushing us. Usually it is a "playful" rush or a pseudo-aggressive rush from a small dog. I honestly do not understand why small dogs run up aggressively to my large dog and some even begin to attack her. Do they lack some special life-preservation gene or even spatial awareness? My dog could literally kill them with one bite which I would hate to happen. Lucky she is very placid and sooky. My dog is (rightly) submissive and wary around dogs larger than herself (unless she knows them), so she clearly has some sense of self-preservation and spatial awareness.

Cardboard boxes! I also love the bob-a-lot toy and still use it. And of course a rubber ball is always a favourite and rope toys are also highly valued.

If you consider your dog a child, surely you would give it the same medical attention that a child requires? That includes regular visits to the doctor, emergency treatment when required, DIAGNOSIS and treatment of any medical condition the child should develop etc Surely you would not chose to euthanase your child based on a 3 day undiagnosed illness? I do not even consider my dog as "my child", she is a valued family member for sure, but she is a dog and treated as such. I find she is happier this way with her needs AS A DOG being met, rather than being forced to be something she is not. Just my opinion though... If she was so ill that she was not eating or drinking and not able to recognise me, she would be immediately taken to a specialist center for a full work up. In fact this actually happened to me, luckily with a happy ending, the specialist center was able to save the life of my dog who otherwise would have suffered an agonizing and horrible death.