aussielover

Can't you just ask if you can stay in intermediate then? Maybe just say you can't make it at the time the advanced class is on or something? I'd be inclined to at least try some of the trialling classes rather than drop out completely. Are you worried your dogs would misbheave or DQ in a trial? Because the majority of novice dogs in all of the trials I've been to have been DQ'ed and some have run around like lunatics. I was worried myself about DQing and my dog going feral and both have happened and its really not a big deal. People are more focussed on themselves and their dog to worry about what other people are doing with their dogs!

Lots of clubs structure their classes to cater for the first timer. As others have said the foundation work, though important for serious agility people, is not "fun" for the average person and in some cases beyond the desire and ability of the average or first time dog owner to commit to. I think this approach is pretty understandable. This way people who may have lost interest in the first few weeks become interested in agility and plenty do go on to trial later. I'd say about 70% of the group I started training with as a beginner have now gone on to trial and become involved with agility which is pretty good imo and a good way to keep people involved and interested in the sport. In contrast, only 1/10 people in our obedience class has gone on to trial (Rally O) and plenty have dropped out completely (I only go occaisonally myself!). Of course we would all do things differently with our second dog if we were to have one, but I doubt so many would have stuck with agility if we had only done foundation exercises for the first few weeks. To be fair, the instructors do give beginners "homework" like groundwork and contact work to do at home as well. I'd have a chat with your club, perhaps you could join in only some parts of the class, while you are still working on the basics at home? I'm sure the club would be understanding. Otherwise just train the foundation work at home first and don't turn up to the club classes until you think you're ready.

I've heard there are waiting lists to get into agility classes in Canberra so perhaps that is why triallers are a bit miffed that some people who have the privilege of going to classes don't trial? Not that I think that is an excuse to be rude or make someone feel unwelcome. I don't know of anyone doing private lessons in Canberra but perhaps you could ask your current instructor or even some of there more experienced triallers in your club?

He is a young excitable dog. He should grow out it, and you're obviously putting the effort into training him. By all means use a headcollar or front leading harness if it makes walking him less stressful and easier for yourself. You can work on loose lead walking with a flat collar in a less distracting environment. I see them as useful tools for a lot of pet owners who don't have time to put a lot of effort into training, it allows them to get the dog out and about safely. I would much rather see a dog being walked in a halti, than not being walked a t all or being pretty much out of control when it is walked. Personally I find the front leading harnesses are more comfortable and less irritating for the dogs.

I think you mean "euthanasia" not "euthanisation" . I did attempt to do the survey however I also felt some of the questions were a bit random and not really related to the topic at all. I also did not understand the question about how you choose your companion? I assume you mean dog companion however the previous question also related to where you got your dog from and what qualities you would look for in a dog. I think, you need have a good think about what information exactly you would like to get and how it relates to the topic, especially if you wish the information to be of use to animal welfare organisations, shelter, pounds etc.

RIP Atlas. As many others have said, you were a DOL favorite, a great character and you will be rembered with great affection. My heart goes out to you Teebs. please take care of yourself during this difficult time.

Mindy was trained using the channel method. I throw her reward (usually a ball or toy) as she comes out of the last weave. she used to weave head down but now that she has more confidence and has started to try to go faster her head seems to be coming up?

That's horrible that ppl are rude to your face or behind your back after all this is meant to be a fun pastime it's not exactly the olympics! I have had the opposite criticism that I run too much, too fast etc. Although it's probably better to be able to hAndle from a distance I quite enjoy running around like a lunatic with my dog lol. I sort of have the opposite problem in trials- my dog runs much faster. I guess I need to make training more fun... If I could just add on to the topic of weaves- is it possible to change the style that the digs weaves in? Mindy sort of "steps" thru rather than doing the side to side bounding motion most bigger digs do. She also keeps her head up rather than down. Although I am happy that she is at least doing them with reasonable speed and accuracy now, but we can always improve!

I wouldn't be letting a Lab run around after a meal, particularly if it's a relatively large meal (if she only gets fed once a day etc). I agree with crating or settling on bed with a chew toy eg deer antler, nylabone, wizzer etc Perhaps one walk a day isnt enough for your young lab? My lab gets at least 3 long walks (1hr +) per day plus extra training. And she is a relatively low energy lab!

I could not have an outside only dog. My dog is out and about for at least 4 hrs a day (walks, trips to shops, training etc) and is outside if we go out (tho never longerthan a few hours) so is not exactly cooped up. I don't have a problem with people who do keep their dogs outside so long as the dog receives enough interaction or is a working dog. It does come down to the individual dog and personal preference of the owner. I don't think crating for long periods (unless for illness or injury) is particularly ideal although again it comes down to the dog getting enough exercise, stimulation...

I agree with referral to a medicine specialist. You can insist your local vet refers him to a specialist. The case sound quite complex and pretty much impossible to diagnose over the Internet, esecially without seeing the dog or any of the tests. The specialist will most likely want to repeat any radiographs, ultrasound, blood tests or other diagnostic tests

Totally depends on the dog. Would be worried in a very focussed breed eg bc or other herding breed or in a generally anxious or hyper dog. Mindy used to chase her tail as a puppy, I didn't really worry too much though didn't encourage her at all. She would stop after a few spins and now doesn't do it at all. She has a laid back personality though.

Yeah, we both had fun which was the main thing and she managed the 600 height easily which I was a bit worried about so overall a great experience Excited for the next trial (next week ) even though I know we still have a bit of work to do...

Yes, it's very easy to get a front fence ... as long as your council allows you to have one. Good point, but I guess in that case it is just as easy, perhaps even easier to get a long line and clip it onto your dog when you go out in the front yard. Or at the very least ensure that it comes when it is called (easier said than done I guess...)

Frequent (ie daily) cleaning of skin folds can help prevent infections. You can use baby wipes etc or special vet ones (malacetic) which are pretty much just dilute vinegar, so similar to what you're already using. TBH I think that food allergy is unlikely to be the cause for lip fold pyoderma. Food allergy usually has a more generalised distribution, although occasionally you so see dogs who only get ear infection in one ear etc You may have a point with the raw food not getting caught in the lip fold as easily though, as food getting stuck would certainly predispose the area to infection. Glad it all seems to be under control though BTW what is TOTW?

No quallie for us yesterday unfortunately but we were very close in 2 events which makes it even more annoying :laugh: We nearly got a Q for snooker, getting maximum points in the first part (24) but then in the second part Mindy didn't jump through the tyre (but did everything else perfectly) because we have never practised the tyre at 600 height before so not surprisingly she ran through the bottom of it. Luckily we had a friend who happened to have a tyre in his ute! So we were able to practise before agility and jumping and she went trough the tyre fine in those We almost got a Q in jumping as well but unfortunately I didn't make a front cross in time which made Mindy run backwards over a previous obstacle. So annoyed with myself though because it was a pretty good run apart from that and she didn't drop any bars (which we have an issue with usually). It was funny though because after all these people came up to me and told me it was my fault the dog did a mistake and told me what I should have done instead Agility wasn't that great, it was the last event at the end of a very long day for us and I think we had both lost the plot by then, Mindy did the first half ok but then decided she would just do the dog walk instead of the weaves :laugh: She missed her first weave entry but the second time did the weaves very well which I was pleased with. I also let her off the table before the judge had finished counting which was embarrassing! Overall we had heaps of fun and I was really pleased with how she went, no dropped bars which is usually a huge issue for us, no running off and she ran much faster than I expected. Hopefully we can do better next week. Proabbly should edit to say hopefully I will do better, Mindy was very good

If an ethical rescue can sell dogs for $700+ good on them, I don't see why they shouldn't recoup their costs to offset the dogs that are harder to sell or need more work. Very few rescues would make any profit at all so I don't think its a matter of increasing profits. Would also discourage impulse buying, which is a good thing. I do have a problem with rescues who try to save every dog and rehome very unsuitable dogs (serious, ongoing health problems, serious behavioural problems etc)to certain owners. Unfortunately not every dog is easily rehomable, and whilst I agree that most probably are rehomable, the "right" homes for them are not so easy to find in a lot of cases. In some cases new owners have spent $1000's on a dog (which may have been quite cheap initially) they have fallen in love with but has problems, only to make the heartbreaking decision to have to euthanse or surrender them at a later time when they find out they aren't equipped to deal with the dogs problems. Personally, I would rather spend more money at the time of initial purchase, and have a better guarantee that the dog will be suitable for me. I think GRR and Lab rescues charge around $400-$500 which I think is pretty reasonable, it discourages impulse buyers, whilst still being a few hundred dollars lower than the average price for a purebred dog/puppy. I think this fee would cover most of the vet costs for the dog, but of course not the foster carers time or the more difficult cases (dogs requiring more extensive medical treatment etc) As GM pointed out if people weren't willing to pay $700, the dog wouldn't sell....

Advantage and advocate are quite good, as is revolution. I think someone mentioned before, but its really important to address the flea contamination in the environment.

Oh yeah good idea! I think I even have one of those from a while ago

Yes I always tug with her and then ask for some tricks before a run She's done in-club trials before and been fine (by fine I mean she hasn't run off, but she has done some other pretty funny things like make up her own course, go under the jumps, get stuck in the tunnel etc lol) Last time I forgot the course about 1/2 way through and the judge had to help me though so perhaps its not her I should be worried about :laugh:

Quick question: We have our first trial tomorrow Are dogs allowed to wear a collar with a name tag during a run? I have read somewhere that they can't? I usually train with no collar, but with the excitement I am a bit worried that my dog might go a bit silly and run off or do something silly, so I'd like the collar and tag so that she could be caught easily if it happens. I'm sure she'll be ok as she usually doesn't run off in training but you never know...

I guess it depends on whether you live on a busy street, but personally I don't think I'd be taking the chance? It's so easy to get a fence, even it is cheap and doesn't look the best. I don't understand why you would take the risk when there is a simple solution. Fencing your front yard is hardly "living in a bubble" I've seen many hit by car dogs at work, most of the time the owners are shocked and say that their dog never does that (run onto the road). Regardless of the legalities of having a dog on an unfenced property, I think it is pretty irresponsible to have a dog that barks at people or other dogs in your front yard, unfenced with free access to public property. How are people or dogs to know if the dog is under control or won't come out to attack them? Running around chasing the dog or letting the dog do zoomies doesn't exactly inspire confidence that the dog is under control.

Not too old at all. In fact 3 years is an ideal age, the dog is in prime fitness and hopefully is mostly over the crazy puppy stage lol Most dogs even aged ones tend ro pick up the basics fairly quickly. I also only do agility for fun - it's great for relationship building and mental stimulation for the dogs. I'm a pretty hopeless handler and my dog is far from fast or with the ideal build or drive but we both really enjoy training and have fun which is the main thing!

You would be surprised at the number if guide dogs that have behavioural and even heAlth problems. Unfortunately no dog is perfect and sometimes taking a dog away from a handler is more harmful as they do develop a very close bond, even if the dog has health or behavioral faults which the handler recognizes. Dog aggression is obviously not acceptable and guide dogs need to be informed so they can assist with training etc. Unfortunately this dog aggression can be caused by guide dogs frequently being attacked or harassed by off lead dogs and idiotic owners. Pretty much every guide dog owner I've met have had numerous episodes of their dog being attacked by off lead dogs. Most of the dogs are naturAlly submissive but some go on to develop aggressive behaviors such as barking at other dogs, obviously dragging the handler to attack another dog extewme but could result from bad experiences

Whilst I understand it is frustrating that no one seems to be able to get a clear, specific answer as to the reasons why the ankc made the decision, I don't understand why flyball is not affiliated with the ankc the same way as many of the other more common dog sports like obedience and agility are? Can the afa not seek the same level of affiliation as these activities? As the current/previous situation stands I don't see how the ankc really benefits from the relationship especially if it is not even required to be a member of the ankc/state body to participate? It seems they get pretty much no revenue from flyball events ? Perhaps I have misinterpreted though? Of course the ankc should promote all dog activities, but it does make it harder and less worthwhile for them if it doesn't directly attract more people to join or get them more money. Personally my experience with fly ballers have not been that good- I enquired with 2 clubs about starting and was told that they were only after small, fast dogs or border collies. Perhaps unlucky and I have met other people who do fly ball who are very nice. I've never been to an agility club that discriminated by breed.... If anything they tend to really support people with more unusual breeds