aussielover

Well I guess that's a risk you take when getting a second dog for whatever reason. Which is why it would be important to go to a reputable breeder or rescue group who would 1), hopefully be able to match you with a suitable dog and 2) could support you and provide you with appropriate help with training/rehoming etc if it did go wrong. I've looked after friends dogs and my dog has been fine with it and really enjoyed their company. She is a dog that gets along well with most dogs and knows her place with other dogs (generally the bottom of the pack lol). I guess if dog 1 is ill behaved then there's the potential for 2 badly behaved dogs which would be unpleasant but surely if you couldn't control/train one dog (to your satisfaction), you would not get another....

I looked through a dog breed book and found a breed that I liked the looked of and whose temperament seemed suitable for us- that breed was the aussie shepherd. With my second dog, I never intended to have a lab and it was a bit more challenging than expected, but I would have labs again in future.

As the title suggests; what is wrong with getting another dog for your existing dog? I've noticed this is frowned upon by the some in the DOL, rescue and breeder community. As long as people have the means to look after 2 dogs and provide them with appropriate care, I don't see a problem? For many people who work full time, this may be a good thing for the existing dog and new dog (provided they enjoy other dogs' company). I'm considering getting another dog next year sometime, and I'll be honest, at this stage it would be primarily as company for my dog as well as me wanting to offer a good home to a second dog. I wouldn't get another dog unless I had the time and money for 2 dogs, which is why I'm holding off until next year when I'm more settled. I'd most likely be looking for an older (4-7 year old) rescue that enjoys other dogs company and can live in a 2 dog household. I'd take both dogs to training, although my current 2 year old would be the main focus for trialling (I probably won't have time to trial 2 dogs), the other dog could participate in training and come along to trials so wouldn't be missing out on any attention. I am also considering fostering as an alternative to getting a second dog, but I don't know how stressful that would be on my current dog and mainly, myself. I think if you can offer a good home for a dog, I don't see why the primary reason for wanting another dog as a companion to the existing dog should be a barrier to adoption.

True but Susan Garrett trains for dog sports, rather than rehabilitation, so its difficult to compare. I think there would be very few agility competitors these days that use dominance type methods or CM methods to train their agility dog. I do find it irritating and sad that some puppy school teachers seem to be very misinformed and pass this onto their clients To the OP: I would also recommend finding another puppy school. Preferably one that keep the pups on lead most of the time and has a smaller number of puppies (up to 5). Good puppy schools also try to keep similar size pups in the same group, although obviously this can be difficult. There are always outgoing and shy puppies in every class. Generally by the second or third class, most puppies come out of their shell, if they haven't been too stressed.

I have a few questions- I have a 2yo lab who jumps 600. I feel like we are doing ok, we've been to a few trials but only qualified recently in SPD and gamblers (at festival of agility) where she had a good, but not great performance. I feel like we are going well in jumping- we have nearly qualified a few times but had a bar down each time. She occasionally knocks bars in training as well. I don't think its a height thing because she easily clears 600 when she wants to and my jumps at home are at 650 and she doesn't usually knock them at home. I have noticed that a lot of the more "athletic" breeds like BCs and kelpies also tend to knock more bars as well (some dogs knock several, where as mine only generally knocks one) so I don't think its breed or conformation related I have tried only rewarding for a clean jump and changing jump distances and angles. Any other tips for dogs that knock bars every now and then or is it just one of those things? Also our agility has really regressed. Although she's attentive during jumping trials she seems to go a bit mental when you add in the contact and weaves as well, always wanting to run off onto the contact equipment and recently, also wanting to run into tunnels randomly as well. The worst was when she was in the middle of weaving and pulled out to run over to the see saw! We're also having trouble with weaving in trials. She's very inconsistent. Last weekend she didn't weave in her first 2 runs but by arvo she was weaving ok and did them fine for her last 2 runs (which we qualified in). She is fine at training as well. Is it just a matter of spending more time training for these issues? I have been away for a month so she's had no training (or interaction with me) for that time, so I am rather pleased with her efforts and getting our first 2 Q's without much ongoing training :)

Surely a vest or harness with a sign would be much more effective? If the dog is actually aggressive and a known biter I also think it should be muzzled.

I'm not a fan of feeding chicken bones to greedy dogs like labs. I prefer lamb or turkey or roo necks for these types of dogs. I've seens quite a few problems with obstruction and perforation in dogs that don't chew properly. I would think the risk if salmonella and other bacterial infections would be quite low However if her dog has been ok with them for 3 years then I see no reason for discontinuing them

I'd recommend Linda Vogelnest. She is lovely and works out of SASH on Mondays, and at Camden (university teaching hospital) tues-thurs. Unfortunately no specialist is cheap, but I wouldn't say Linda overcharges.

I like Sirius cove in Mosman, near the zoo especially at low tide. The sand can get a bit yucky at high tide and there's not as much room for dogs to run around. However, it's still good if you dog lives swimming. I also like clontarf and bayview.

I have one of the rubber impreganted ones. I love it. It doesn't get all gross like the old horse lunge line I was using. And it came in my favourite colour: purple :)

Really? All the ones i've met have been big softies and pretty laif back but then I've only met 4!

If I was getting it done on my dog, I would be getting a specialist to do it. To me, its worth the extra expense. I've seen lots of dogs done successfully by general practioners as well, but I would still rather go with a specialist as there is the risk for incontinence. I would do it if my dog has recurring anal sac issues like abscesses or frequent impactions and it caused them distress.

I also think goldens are generally quieter than labs. I love labs but they need a lot of time and training. They might do fine in that situation on a farm or acerage setting where they can run around as they please but in a suburban situation I think you do need to put a lot of effort in. They are high energy dogs. I actually think a giant breed may be more suitable as they usually aren't as high energy. Newfies are well known as being great with kids. Not sure about Malamutes but none i've met have seemed overly active. Sure giant breeds may accidently knock kids over, but a young untrained lab is guaranteed to knock a child over as well. Not saying a lab couldn't work though, please make sure they go to a knowledage and ethical breeder who can find a pup to suit their needs.

Is it on the pad itself? Did it require stitches or staples? Were any tendons exposed? Is he on antibiotics? I'd recommend at least going back for the recheck on Friday. Depending on how it's looking no further bandaging may be required, or if it is you could discuss with the vet about doing it yourself. Pad injuries are a pain for both vets and owners as they can take a while to heal due to them expanding everytime the dog bears weight. If it's not on the pad, then healing might be a bit quicker.

Do they want a puppy? They are pretty game taking on a lab puppy with 3 kids under school age! Are they experienced with training dogs?How about an adult rescue? In nsw there is Labrador rescue and labradog rescue.

I think it really depends on the type of chemo and the individual dog. Most of the chemo used in vet medicine is not at the same dose as we would use in people. Unfortunately this also means it is rarely ever curative, and at the most will buy some time. It also means that they generally don't suffer the same degree of side effects as humans do, although adverse reactions are still possible and some dogs may not tolerate certain drugs as well as others. Some chemo protocols only involve giving a tablet at home every few weeks and the dogs have very few noticeable side effects. Of course, there is always the extra monitoring required for animals on chemo- regular blood tests etc and depending on the dog, that alone could be quite stressful. Other protocols involve the dog having to have IV injections and spend the day in hospital. There are a few cases where chemo is pretty non invasive, with few side effects and can buy several months of good quality life for the dog. I couldn't really say whether I'd go for it, it would depend on the type of cancer the dog had, the quality of life expected and the proposed chemo protocol.

Glad to hear he is on a diet- you should be able to easily feel his ribs and he should have a visible waist when viewed from above and have a "tuck up" (and tuck-in) when viewed from the side. He looks like a lovely boy, very sweet happy face he has :) I am glad you have a plan to keep him healthy and manage his pain.

Some kind of european hound?

I don't know why people are being so tough on the OP. They were obviously prepared for a dog, have contacted breeders, know what they're in for overseas transport wise, have guaranteed to take the dog back to singapore with them. So they fell in love with a dog at the RSPCA and were told they couldn't have it, despite being a responsible owner, able to offer a good home. Don't they have a right to be a little peeved and disappointed, even if the RSPCA policy is a good one? I don't blame them for visiting the RSPCA when they were lonely. I volunteered at the local pound when I was away in college because I missed having a dog so much. My mum was a bit of a dog stalker when our dog passed away- she would go to dog parks and ask if she could cuddle the dogs there! I also intend to travel and work in the UK in the next few years, and I have a dog. I knew this even before I had her. I absolutely intend to take her with me. Does this make an irresponsible owner? I do think the RSPCA policy is a sound one, but I can also understand the OP's frustration.

Nasal depigmentation can be due to "snow nose" or be an autoimmune disease such as discoid lupus. This looks very mild and more like snow nose or age-related change imo but if you're worried you should see your vet. If it starts bleeding or becomes ulcerated it could be a sign of something more serious.

It doesn't sound normal. I would get her to the vet for a check up with UTI or incontinence in mind. If she checks out ok, maybe consider getting a professional to come and help you?

I think this a bit of a harsh statement! The OP stated they intended to take the dogs back home to Singapore with them. Is that so hard to believe? If you know what you're doing and are organised it is really not that difficult to take a dog overseas from australia (getting them back into australia is a little more difficult). Its moderately expensive but affordable for most people. I understand why the RSPCA has this policy, unfortunately not all overseas students have the same attitude as the OP, so it makes sense. They are a large organisation and probably not well enough equipped to deal with more complex cases, so they have "blanket rules" which are in some cases unfair for both potential adopters and dogs, but they are made in the best interest of the majority of dogs. It does seem a shame a dog is missing out on a potentially good home but it is better than going to an unsuitable home who will dump them in a few years (again not saying the OP would do this).

The most common cause for vomiting and diarrhoea in a puppy that is otherwise bright and happy is some sort of dietary indiscretion ie they have eaten something they shouldn't have. I wouldn't worry too much if he's still eating and drinking normally and is still bright, happy and active. If he stops eating and drinking, vomits several times and has copious diarrhoea or becomes flat I would take him straight to the vet. Diarhhoea and constipation is fairly unpleasant and may have been uncomfortable for him which is why he scooted. I agree that worms is unlikely seeing as he is up to date with his worming.

Whilst an adult large/giant breed may be suitable for apartment living, puppies of these rbeeds require space to run around.

A Cavalier would be my choice for this type of situation. The are really sweet dogs who love to be with people. They are happy to just hang around, but are also active enough to do agility, obedience etc or go on long walks if thats what you are doing. They are highly biddable and trainable and willing to please. Grooming is fairly easy and they aren't overly heavy shedders.