aussielover

It'd be pretty annoying for neighbours if you were in a high-traffic area and the dog was constantly barking at people walking by the house. It may become an issue if the dog becomes a nuisance barker and gets complaints. If there is the option of keeping the dog in the backyard, obviously that would be preferable, but not everyone has that option. As long as the dog is well contained and can't get out, there's not much else you can do.

Yep. It'd be nice to have a higher drive/faster dog for agility but to be fair to my dog, I didn't get her with the intention of competing in dog sports and I think she probably had very high potential for her intended purpose as a guide or assistance dog if it weren't for her health issues. I still love her and think she's the perfect dog for me even if she's not the best at agility or other dog sports :D I also think its better for me, as a beginner in agility to have a slightly slower/lower drive dog than the other way round! I see plenty of fast, driven dogs with handlers that don't have the athletic or training ability to allow them to reach their full potential imo . Having said that, it is amazing the way some of these people develop their distance handling, but to me, agility is about the both the dog and the handler being fast and agile and working together. I feel sorry for any dog that just sits in the backyard, whether or not they have low or high potential for other activities There are plenty of performance bred aussies around, but few actual "working" aussies.

Yesterday, at a friend's house, just as everyone was saying how well behaved and well trained my dog is and how they will all ask me for advice on raising and training their next puppy, she jumps up from her sleeping spot, comes over to the coffee table we are sitting around and in one fluid motion manages to snatch some chips off the table and then wag her tail in victory and knocked off and broke one of the glasses on the table Lucky there were all dog lovers and thought it was funny :laugh: But I think they won't be asking me for advice on puppy raising any more

Probably yes, but the harness may be easier for some handlers, especially inexperienced ones like myself. My dog actually works best off lead, I get all uncoordinated with the lead in my hand and then tend to rely on it rather than my voice or body to guide the dog Unfortunately we train in a non leash free area. Surely its about using what tool is best for both the handler and dog combined?

Our club allows and encourages people to use harnesses if that the the tool which the dog and owner are most comfortable with. I really don't see why clubs would have a problem with using a harness, unless it wasn't suitable or ineffective for the dog. Personally I'd rather see a large strong untrained dog on a halter or sporn or front leader harness as I feel it offers better control generally than a flat collar or martingale collar. I don't have a problem with check or prong collars when used properly but I can see why some clubs don't want to associate themselves with these tools these days (not that I necessarily agree). My dog works better on a harness for obedience (just a normal one, not the "corrective" ones like the front attaching or sporn) because she doesn't like the lead buckle flapping around the front of her- its much more tempting for her to try and grab the lead and play with it! Also I feel there is less temptation to use the lead as a tool when the dog is on a harness as you don't really have as much control.

Well said I would not be thinking of my personal safety if I saw my dog getting attacked by another dog.

So do you just turn up on the day? Sounds like fun!

I agree to a point, I know very drivey dogs that don't or won't tug- who knows if they would have a better performance if they were taught to tug though? My own dog isn't very drivey at all but will tug more readily and seriously with me than many higher drive working breed dogs. Although she enjoys tugging and thinks its a fun game, she will work most effectively for food. Personally I don't see the point in attempting to make her enjoy tugging more and see it as more rewarding. I don't really have the time for starters and secondly I don't enjoy tugging with such a heavy dog. I've tugged with BCs before and its much more pleasant than tugging with a 30kg lab! To answer the OPs original question: With my lab I have always just started walking or running away from her if she gets distracted. It doesn't work for all dogs as they actually have to have a fear of being left behind, but running in the opposite direction making ridiculous noises can be helpful, then engaging in a game of fetch or tug or whatever or giving a big food reward can be quite effective. I also taught my dog to play fetch, which I slightly regret now because it means she is less interested in playing with other dogs, but is useful to get the dog focussed on the game with you rather than other dogs. It's not great though if you want a social dog that plays with others though. Food rewards- yummy ones such as cheese, bbq chicken, meatballs etc have never failed me at the dog park in achieving a great recall with labs! Unfortunately it can attract every other dog at the park as well, so you have to be subtle about how you reward your dog.

Even very well trained and supposedly well bred dogs get involved in dog fights. It is sometimes just what dogs do, no matter how well trained they are. I've seen a few cases of service dogs (customs, police and guide dog labradors- a breed which people generally seem to think have lower incidences of DA) getting into fights and their handlers being bitten trying to separate them. However, being bitten multiple times and having an ear ripped off, is not simply getting in between 2 fighting dogs.

I'd like to find out if it is possible to easily feed a raw diet, but without giving any bones. Most of the reading I have done suggests that bones are an important part of a raw diet. I am unable to feed my dog bones as she nearly died from having one perforate her intestine. She does not chew properly and giving her bones is therefore highly risky, and I just can't bring myself to do it given her previous incident She atopic and has done 2 food trials already, initially we thought she was allergic to chicken and beef, however now I believe that this not the case and the improvement seen in the first trial just happened to be coincidence with changing seasons. There was no improvement or relapse in the second food trial and subsequent re-challenge leading us to believe she is actually not food allergic. I have heard some atopic dogs benefit from a raw diet. If people could suggest some resources about feeding raw but with no bones I would be grateful.

I think it is entirely possible that some dogs have an ADHD type disorder. I also think some dogs are very clever and essentially train their owners to provide activities for them. My dog is spoilt and gets heaps of exercise and training but I don't think she actually "needs" it.

I'm sorry, but is it not obvious and common sense that if the directions say "apply one tube" then according to the manufacturers it is unsafe to split doses by only applying part of a tube to separate dogs. Its fine for you if splitting doses seem to work for you and you're happy to do it. However, surely you can see that no one with any sense would recommended going against the manufacturers instructions and advising someone over the net to split doses.

I'd say it depends on the type of surgery and who does it. The surgery Ness describes is relatively low risk, but there are other surgeries for more severe cases that involve moving pieces of bone and putting implants into the bone. These are higher risk, especially if you don't rest and restrict them adequately after. I think you should discuss the risks and potential outcomes with your vet or a specialist in orthopedics.

I don't like to give a weight in kgs. All dogs should be judged by look and feel. Do they have a visible waist from the side and above, can you fairly easily feel the ribs and vertebrae. Obviously they should not be sticking out. but should be able to be felt with firm pressure. Being able to see the last 2 ribs is also good, however this may vary with breed and conformation. It should not be underestimated how difficult it can be to have this conversation with some clients. I've actually had people become so irrational they've said "so are you saying I'm fat then?" which is rather awkward (especially when they are overweight!) Most people however, know their pets are fat and are fairly good about hearing it, even if they don't take on board any advice or only try a "diet" for a few weeks.

Well done to you and Kaos!

So sorry to hear Kenz still isn't doing well Was the initial hindlimb lameness localized to the patella? were the vets 100% sure the patella was the cause of the problem? ie have all her other joints and spine been examined? Normally surgery is not necessary for a grade 2 luxating patella. I've even seen dogs with low grade LP's that get a long fine in dog sports like agility. Obviously though, the specialist deemed surgery necessary or they wouldn't have done it. I suppose the most simple explanation is that the surgery has failed Have you consulted the vet about this possibility? I'm sure you know, but there are other surgical options available for LP, but I'm not sure how suitable they would be for kenz- you'd have to chat with your vet about that. The lameness in the other hindlimb is concerning, and warrants further investigation. Is it possible that this shifting/recurring lameness could be mostly psychological rather than mostly physical? What pain meds has she been on? Could it be some kind of nerve pain? Do you see a physio and if you do what is their opinion on her progress? I think you should probably seek a second specialist opinion. are the uni vets in SA any good? I would personally recommend Dr Ken Johnson at Sydney Uni, who is a world renowned orthopedic specialist. However, this may be a bit far for you! I've heard the vets at melbourne uni are pretty good as well, which may be more convienient. Hope you can get this sorted out. It must be really frustrating to have it going on for so long

Well owners aren't going to necessarily realise their dog is fat unless someone tells them. The vet is probably the most appropriate person to do this, although it does need to be done tactfully as people tend to take it quite personally. Although you would think it would be obvious... its actually not for some people, especially when there are many other dogs of the same breed that are overweight, even show dogs. For example in my breed (Labrador), in my opinion many of the dogs in the show ring are actually overweight. I understand there are "solid" dogs but these dogs are actually overweight as well as being heavily built. I personally wish they would be shown in fit, working condition rather than "show" condition. Yesterday I attended a show, obedience, agility and retrieving trial and there was a big difference in the labs participating in the show ring and those participating in the agility, obedience and retrieving. How are the public to know their pet lab is fat if the dogs in the show ring are in similar condition. I always get told my lab is lean/skinny which is quite annoying as she is actually the correct weight and she wouldn't exactly die if she lost a few kgs (isn't that true for most of us :D). It is not that hard to keep a dog in good body condition as you are the one that has almost 100% control over what they eat. My dog gets fed a lot. Granted she is an active, large breed dog but she gets 2 meals a day plus training treats and snacks. Hardly deprived, in fact probably eats better than many people (including myself ). I understand that it is harder for owners with small, sedentary dogs but there are some good low-cal kibbles available now and the other alternative is to feed raw and many people find that they can feed more of a raw diet than the energy dense kibble.Feeding raw also has the advantage that the meals are home-prepared thus fulfilling that need 'spoil" the dog by making the person spend more time preparing each meal. My dog can, and I know quite a few other who can as well. Its not an excuse for obesity though.

I've been thinking about getting into retrieving for ages, but sadly haven't really had the time this year yet. I have a 2.5 year old labrador. However, we attended an agility trial yesterday where they also wer edoing the RATG trials. I went down to watch for a bit and it looked really fun. Unfortunately I think our retrieving days are over even before they began! The RATG people there were super nice and let my dog have a go with the dummy and pigeon. She was scared of the pigeon and although she would retrieve the dummy she would drop it at my feet or want to play tug with it Unfortunately i've trained her to drop her ball at my feet and i also play tug with her for agility so there are some bad habits there tat would need fixing. She is quite a mouthy dog and loves carrying around toys, socks, shoes etc around the house and will always greet you with something in her mouth, and she does love playing fetch as well so I thought she'd be ok. Was pretty shocked that she was scared of the dead pigeon :laugh: She sometimes brings me back dead rabbits she find at the park so I's have thought she'd be ok with dead animals. Apparently there's a beginner training day early next year which we might go to, and if we're still hopeless after that, i might just have to wait till my next dog

Thanks Adnil444. Can you book these pens so that others don't get in? I normally take my dogs to the dog park in our area very early in the morning or late in the evening when there are no other dogs usually. But I still have to keep an eye on all three gates all the times to ensure we have enough time to get out if other dogs are approaching the park. That means that I can't really focus on training or playing with my dogs. Hi, you can't book them, but once in, you can control who comes in or out - when I have my dogs in the pen, and someone comes along, I just say, sorry (one of mine can be a bit dominant at times). They either use another pen, or wait until one becomes free. But really, I never have to wait to use one. But they are for public use so you can't really stop people from using them, apart from asking nicely and hoping people will be understanding. They've even had trouble at agility trials with people using the pens next to competing dogs, even when there are signs saying the pens are booked and the public cannot enter. They're also not very big, not much bigger than a backyard really. I don't think there are any areas in sydney similar to keppala in VIC. Are you looking for a private area because your dogs are DA or because you want to do training without distractions? I have heard that Deep Creek in Narrabean may become the property (with sole access rights) of a training club in the near future which may be something to look into. It's a nice area with a creek, waterfall and large grass area, most dogs love it. However it is heavily tick infested and snakes have been sighted. It is not fully enclosed and only about 500m back from a very busy road, so only suitable for dogs that are under pretty good control.

do you have a command or word for toileting? this can be a useful thing to teach. then you can take the dog to the designated area on lead and tell them to go. if you reward everytime they go it it right spot hopefully they'll catch on. but keep in mind that some dogs like to choose their own spots where they feel most comfortable going

Currently quarantine coming back to Australia from the uk is 30 days. It may be changing in the near future to only 2 weeks which would be great. I believe there is a quarantine center at badgerys creek, sydney where dogs, cats and horses are kept(the same one that EI broke out from). We moved our dog to the UK and back to Australia with us only a few years ago. she was never really crate trained but coped very well on the flights and coped fine with the 30 days in quarantine in australia. She was returned to us happy and healthier (she has lost some weight) than before when we picked her up. The pick up in the UK was even easier, she was on the same flight as us, we organised for an external agency to pick her up from the airport and drop her at our new house. she arrived home about an hour after we did and was very happy to see us. she didn't seem traumatised at all.

+ 1 Surely you want the best thing for Penny? And surely that would be for her to have company all day. I am in a similar situation- I work long hours at the moment and my parents are retired. My dog spends the day with them. I am very grateful that they can look after her during the day so I don't have to worry about her being lonely or bored. They take her for several walks throughout the day and give her special treats (that part is annoying as she is supposed to be on a diet!). I would have to pay a dog walker or send her to doggy daycare if they were not available. I make sure I spend at least 2 hours with her each day, exercising her and training her. I go out of my way- getting up early or going to training/park late to ensure that we spend time working together. I take her to agility trials and training on the weekends and take her out to the beach or other special places whenever I can. Even though she spends more time with my parents, she is still very much "my" dog and very closely bonded to me, i believe this is a result of all the training we do together and she also sleeps on my bed at night. I think you need to think about what is really best for your dog. I believe that if you do training with her and spend time working with her (perhaps doing obedience or agility training) she will come to love you just as much, if not more than your MIL. You have to be the person that is super fun to be with, the person who challenges her to think, gives her the chance to earn rewards etc

Gorgeous Dobe! What does his breeder think about breeding him? He is still young, perhaps you could start showing him or trialling him in some other disciplines eg obedience, agility, schutzhund etc and if he is successful there then perhaps you will have some interest in him as a stud dog. You can get hormone injections that will stop them from being able to impregnate a bitch, so perhaps you could use this whilst you're undecided.

perhaps go to some agility trials and see which BCs you like and their lines? I think you'll be hard pressed finding a breeder that does not vaccinate at all, or a breeder that will sell you a puppy that you will not vaccinate at all. It is pretty well accepted that at least the first puppy course of vaccinations (usually at 6-8 weeks, 10-12 weeks, 14-16 weeks)are essential for protection against serious and very contagious diseases such as parvovirus, hepatitis and distemper. I am not sure why you would want to take the risk of your puppy contracting a potentially deadly disease which is largely preventable? Your puppy may not have a long healthy life if it contracts parvovirus or distmper. After the course of puppy vaccines, many people choose not to vaccinate further, or do titre testing to see if their dog requires re-vaccination.

I have done some jumping grids and cavaletti work with her a few months ago, and she was better with bars then no I think about it but I have been away so no training at all last month. I think its probably a good idea to start that up again though, thanks for reminding me :) That might be easier for BC's to work out! My lab still goes to the spot on our daily walk she once found a chicken wing, every single day! I think she also find the contacts (especially the see saw) in itself "fun" as she is always running over logs and on the edge of things at the park! Our weavers at home have a plastic base, but she usually gets them at training and its a metal base as well. I think as Tollers said, it may be a matter of focusing too much on the other equipment and excitement of a trial. She is also better entering when on my right hand side, as I think she feels a bit pressured when she is on my left and I am pushing her into the weaves (accidently). Hopefully it will come with time... I am pleased that she did the weavers in her last 2 runs, even though they were from the "good" side Glad to hear others with young, novice dogs have had similar problems!