bedazzledx2

True There was no way they could have sighted it in all that! I don't think the guys used sight at the river in all the leaves ;)

Not necessarily taught by sight but as our grounds do tend to be well manicured my dogs will default to looking first and then using their noses if they can't find it. Smart really but not much help to you sorry I know many tracking people teach it purely by following a track. I didn't teach it by sight. Care to share your method? From other posts by some ppl from WA I got the impression that the exercise was mostly taught by sight, I appologise if I was wrong!

I also dispute the numbers quoted....millions upon millions trained to millimeter perfection????????? I would love to watch one of his best obedience rounds and then compare it to one of todays top +R rounds.

Gentle leaders and halti's ect are terrific manegment tools, as is a harness, but they rarely teach the dog how to control himself and walk nicely on a loose lead. You have to train it. The problem with most club obedience is they try to teach the dog to 'heel' and tend to do endless hours of group heelwork which is IMO neither useful for competition heelwork or everyday loose leash walking! My dogs heel for competition in a very specific defined manner but I would never take them for a walk at heel. I do get fed up occasionally with them pulling and remind them we are not doing this by making like a tree! They get the message and comply Pulling is enormously rewarding for most dogs and there is a saying "pulling builds drive" As you are finding the 'make like a tree' is time consuming and the dog doesn't get to go for a walk while you are training it. It does work but you really have to be consistant and reward when he is back in position. I would invest in a no pull harness for everyday use so that you can take him for a normal walk and train loose leash walking separately on a flat collar. As for the recall go to this site http://www.shirleychong.com/keepers/Lesson6.html It really does work!

Hi Seita, that's a really common problem for a novice UD dog. Not to worry, all it means is that you have moved a few steps too fast and you just need to take it back to sending her from halfway (between the jumps) and then you back up to present the full picture to her by the time she's in the box. It's also a really good idea to split all the components of DJ like Caffy said. Can you move the box to a corner in your training area without the jumps and send her and can she find it? In long grass without the usual sight picture to guide her? These things need to be taught separately so she really understands and is actively looking for the box. Have you taught your dog to "sight" the box? Have you put the box in different locations (tall grass etc) and sent her? Have you done the box from multiple distances? Yes she sights the box, yes I have moved the box around and sent her to it and yes I've done it from many distances. She had no problems with going between the jumps etc when I first put the two parts together but after asking her to go to the box and then go over a jump she has started to go over a jump on the way to the box.

Got it in one Ptolomy :D Isn't that called distraction training?????

Is that what it's called? :D Didn't look much like swimming to me....more like trying to stay afloat while Alex and Snazz swam circles around him ...all that "swimming" :D

Batteries are flat

I would hope that you train Novice with the plan of going through to UD and UDX!!!! :D I ask because you have previously answered that you couldn't or wouldn't train train without using food. You really do have to train this transition :D QUOTE (bedazzledx2 @ 20th Dec 2009 - 05:36 PM) So if you took her to a park/trial ground and wanted to train/trial and didn't have food or toys with you.....? Don't get me wrong, I am big on food and motivational training but there have to be other ways to engage your dog. Can you transfer the rewards to a physical game? I utilise her pack drive and rev her up between exercises without giving her food, but when it comes to trialling I will always have her working in food drive. Could I get her to work for praise? I could to a degree but why use that at a trial instead of food when I can get so much out of her by working her in food drive ETA: I don't mean I won't ever utilise her pack drive (playing, praise, playing a physical game) just that I won't use it instead of food drive. ETA2: If I went to the park without any food I simply wouldn't work her in drive. I couldn't do the training I do without it. This post has been edited by huski: 20th Dec 2009 - 04:33 PM With the training we do it's about making sure she can maintain drive for the amount of time necessary. In between exercises, I'll use play/praise I like your insinuation that we'll actually get to UD in the first place :p

How are you planning to reward her between exercises Huski? Remember by the time you get to UD you have 8 excersises (some are 2 and 3 parters) to get through before you can treat. I will get her into food drive before I go in the ring and will release her to the food after, getting her to maintain that drive when we are in the ring (in theory, lol).

A friend made one for me out of rip stop fabric with a velcro closing. I think it was about $5 which would have been just material costs. The problem with most umbrella/tent/canopy bags that come with the product is that they are too small!!! My suggestion would be to make them a bit oversize so they can be packed away quickly without needing arigami skills!!!!!

Great post Pax

Easy....treat in position, click the lead on and then release. Now you are in control!

Totally agree with you Pax I see punishment as largely unnecessary if you are prepared to teach and manage. Positive is not permissive! Well if it's inconsistency the handler should be punished. If it is training to stay off the lounge, wouldn't it be easier to reward the dog for being in the right place, I am obviosly thinking about this too much. I just don't ever want to correct something that I haven't trained and I think that is the most important point. If I have trained it correctly, the dog wont get it wrong.

Or putting a choke chain on a dog in order to teach it to heel Aversives for failing to produce the result the trainer wants. Eg. hitting a pup for not sitting or jerking and dragging a dog into a down.

One way to wean off group classes might be to ask the instructor if they would mind if you duck in and out of the class. This means you can still do group stays (if you wish) stand for exam, recalls etc but when they start paddock bashing en mass you can just duck out and work on doodling and perfecting turns etc or just put your dog away for a break. An hour is way too long to train any dog anyway.

What makes the most sense to me is the omitted paragraph at the bottom of the quote "If you can’t follow all 8 of these rules, you’re probably better off avoiding the use of punishment. Heck, even if you can follow all 8 rules, you’re probably better off avoiding the use of punishment, as punishment can result in so many unintended and undesirable side effects."

Another thing to try is double about turns and click and throw the treat/toy. Done heaps of part turns in the kitchen just as part of our learning to 1) truely understand finding heel position and 2) enjoy it given I nearly ruined her with boredom from doing 2 years of classes. So as part of that we've done left turns right turns backwards forwards etc etc and she does them fine. We have done some on the spot work and yes she is lagging/not turning as tightly - most of it's been in the kitchen on board floors but I did some on grass this arvo and they were still ordinary. Maybe she's got used to turning badly on the boards due to footing and it's carrying to outside? Try turning your head in the direction you are turning just prior to making the turn - it indicates to the dog that you are about to change direction. I can hear you saying footwork, food, clicker, head turn ARGH - but it does work! Will add it to this week's training plan.... Thank you!

The rules only require that you use a single word and it must be in English unless you are given permission by the Judge. It was only after I had the exercise fully trained I realised I had to think of a word and fetch seems logical :D I have judged a few people who have used 'get it' in the ring which is of course two words so against the rules. Just thought that I'd jump in here and say that it really up to you what word you use. I use the word Dumbell, but others might use fetch or get.. Will be interested in hearing what other words others use too.

WTG Dova Well done for both Pebbles and Delta. Sleep well you deserve it!

These sound great! I'm a dog groomer and I have 2 double coated dogs and 2 cats who live inside so I live with animal hair 24/7 :laugh: I always laugh at these CSI Police shows on TV when they find a hair which they proudly hold up with a pair of tweezers!!!!! Would be interested in any further information you get re prices etc.

Sorry forgot to add the clip Here it is

I also feed raw but its not that hard to treat from the daily allowance. I feed goat as the main meat component and I don't cook it so thats pretty easy. You're not a real trainer until you can have bits of raw meat, chicken necks, sardines in your pocket Actually a bum bag is good for shaping as you can put anything disgusting in it and wash it afterwards. This clip is distraction training (very distracting as he loves toys ) but you can see me toss a whole fresh sardine from my pocket (eeewwwe!) at 1.53. If I'm training duration I'll have his meal in small containers and use that as a jackpot. Yes, it's hard to keep Daisy slim too She will gorge herself on any food she can get her paws on! She ate more than a kilo of cat food when she last managed to open the container I feed them on a raw diet so it's hard to use their daily meals as training treats when you are shaping something and only want to give them little bits. Thankfully I pretty much always train new things at home, so I don't need to use anything particularly high value as even a piece of lettuce is hugely exciting to Daisy in a low distraction environment! When we're doing drive training and are out and about in high levels of distraction I always use something soft and smelly, usually cooked meat of some description. She tends to get so excited that she'll swallow things without chewing, so using anything dried slows us down as she stops to cough it up. It's not so bad at home, because I try not to get her as excited when we're just learning new things or shaping. I always get torn though when it comes to using high value meat for training as it's hard to find something healthy - sausage, kabana, luncheon roll etc are all pretty fatty even when I feed them in tiny tiny pieces. Often I'll get lean beef pieces or chicken and boil it then chop them up to use as training treats as it's a bit lower in fat than processed food like sausage. I get worried about it as if you train multiple times a day, whatever food you use to reward really does become part of their daily diet!

I hear you Husk Dog's looooovvvve cat bickies but they are really high in fat! Probably why they are so tasty! I use their daily meal ration to train especially when I am shaping as you do tend to go through a lot of treats. I like a softer food like cheese and or chunkers or even bits of raw meat so we dont go through the inhale/choke bit! Brooklyn is a "good doer" as they say and its a constant battle to maintain a healthy working weight as he is such a guts Whatever food I don't use in training from that day goes into his dinner bowl and nothing else! Sometimes he just gets his bone allowance.

Excellent progress Well done Huski I realised that after I typed it, Bedazzled! I meant more that she'd touch it as soon as I presented the dumbell or if I pointed to it. I'm trying not to put any verbal cues on it just yet. Second training session with it this afternoon and she's putting her mouth on it now, not with any real grip, but it's not bad progress for one day! She seems to be cottoning on to it quite quickly. Hopefully it won't be too long before she actually picks it up! (the hardest stage to teach I'm sure!). I didn't think she'd put her mouth on it so soon but she did it suddenly so I eagerly marked it and rewarded rewarded rewarded!