bedazzledx2

I just saw the video after I posted...this is exactly what I'm talking about by plucking with your fingers!!!! Great clip, I wish everyone who wants a spitz type dog would have a look at that before they get one and then find out they can't live with the hair! Yep, the only other breed I can imagine that sheds more than a Siberian is a Malamute! ETA: Sonny looks grey in that pic!

I can relate!!!! I'm a groomer and I own an Aussie, BC and 2 cats who all seem to shed at the same time!!!! I love the furminator for short undercoats but really haven't found it to be much good for the longer coated dogs. My method of choice is to hydrobath the dog, blow dry with a force dryer and use a metal comb or rake and go through the entire dog section by section. I have the dog on a grooming table and start on the pants by lifting the coat with one hand and combing down small sections until you can run a fine tooth comb through the entire coat. Some dogs it looks like the 'stuffings coming out' when they blow coat (corgies, huskies, GSD's and the like) and you can pluck large chunks out with your fingers to start the process. A good groomer should be able to have your dog looking fabulous and it may be a ton easier for you to have it done professionally, otherwise get a glass of wine and set aside a few hours

Pretty much. We are asking people to come a bit early to help set up especially for the agility. There will be 2 agility rings and 3 obedience rings. Enjoy :D

Far out!!!! $300 for a consult!!????!!!!! That is one super expensive vet!!! I hope your dogs are ok....sounds like they will be. Fingers crossed.

The details were ommitted from the Canine News Start time will be around 6.30 to 7 depending on the weather.

Pippin, when you say she is aggressive when grooming, is that to you or your groomer? What breed is she and what does she do? ie does she growl, lift her lip or snap? I am a groomer and have dealt with lots of dogs that may appear aggressive to their owners and some definately are but for many it can be a matter of technique, place (grooming table v floor) or previous experience. Many dogs can be taught in small steps acceptable behaviour when being groomed. That doesn't mean they have to like it but they must keep their teeth to themselves!

Have a look at this site (you may have to register which will get you lots more excellent information) http://www.clickertraining.com/node/2297 Rather than using strong arm stuff I would be putting my efforts into being a better teacher for my dog. Much easier and better for the relationship in the long term than all this boundary stuff and doorways OMG! (that usually goes along with the human eats first and other such nonsence) I allow my dog on the couch (and the bed) on my terms but if you don't want him on the furniture that's fine too. If your dog is displaying signs of aggression, particularly if you ask him to get off the couch/bed, then that is whole nuther ball of wax and needs careful addressing with a good behaviourist.

I wish I had read this thread before we went to training tonight! I have a Santa Fe and had the exact same problem. My dogs are pretty good but if there is no barrier they will both end up in the back seat if I'm not attentive. I also needed to retain as much space as possible and yet be able to easily use the back seat for human passengers at a moments notice. I ended up using a clipper 6 crate which is the same one I fly him in when we go east for one dog and the space left is for the other. I used a large cargo net hooked up which is a visual barrier which they respect and haven't pushed past even though they could if they wanted to. Its not a safety barrier and I'm looking at working out a more permantent solution which will probably include a raised platform for the crate and I can store stuff underneath it. Remind me on Saturday if you're coming to the mock trial or else next Monday and we can compare notes .

I record in high quality so I bought video converter software which enables me to reduce files enough to upload to youtube. It wasn't very expensive from memory....I think I got a deal of around 4 suites of software for around $60 Aust. Pretty basic but easy enough to use. http://www.avs4you.com/

Yes GT they look very similar to the coyote fences they have in USA which are based on the PVC and wire. The manufactured ones there are pricey too going by the web sites I investigated a few years ago. Great idea for a fence jumper but I would look to enclosing a smaller area of the yard rather than the whole block unless you had lots of $ to spare!

You know it only takes a few like minded people to start a small group dedicated to helping each other out and training their way on the side lines. We have all paid membership to the clubs we train at and have asked very respectully if it was ok to train on the sidelines if we also pay light money. Most of us are fairly experienced so they know we aren't going to do anything stupid and we make sure we don't interfere with the classes at all. Worth a go anyway

No! If a club told me I had to train with a cc and no food or clicker I would respect their policy and go to a different club.

She is just too cute for words!!!!!

Hi Barb Has Tassie published it to their members? Looks like SA, ACT and NT have been left out too.....or am I wrong (hope so) and I just can't find it on the web sites? If anyone would like to have a say in the proposed new rules please let your State Delegate know in writing (or email) so they can vote on your behalf. If anyone wants the contact email of the WA delegate PM me and I can pass it on. AFAIK - DogsVic and Dogs NSW - the latter have asked for written comments etc. by Feb 15.

OK, now I'll chuck something into the mix! The vast majority of obedience and agility clubs around Australia are non profit making CLUBS 'staffed' by volunteers. Many do 'in house' instructors courses...some better, some not. Those instructors then teach according to the philosophy and knowledge base of their club whether it be using positive methods or correctional methods or a combination of both. I think its unfair to berate any club for not being able to handle (for example) the aggressive 45kg dog that turns up with an owner who has allowed it to behave badly for the first 10 months of its life! To advise the owner to seek professional advice (if the club doesn't have a skilled instructor on hand) is the responsible thing to do. I do not see anything wrong with a club refusing to train dogs in a method that is outside their experience and knowledge. I do have an issue with some people who think that positive is permissive and its all just food bribing and feel good stuff. That just shows the lack of knowledge of the method.

Agree with lilli. RSPCA have proven they can't be trusted....no way can I support them with this much power :D

Yep...just PM me and I'll do the rest :D

Yep! I had three goes in the UD ring :thumbsup: Don't forget the Naionals fundraiser at Canine on Feb 6th

I agree with you about the COP Ness. Lots of dogs get brain faze at the sit even in Open with a verbal and UD without the verbal. I think its a bit tough to ask a Novice dog to sit from a down in a trial setting. Out of interest how many other States have made the proposals public information available to their members?

Proposed changes to the rules are here http://www.dogswest.com/

Yes ZZ that does make sense. So long as you mark the correct behaviour (click or verbal yes) and give a clear release cue "go sniff". Ptolomy's suggestion would also work when she just ignoring you and won't play your game.

It sounds like sniffing is rewarding for her. Why not use a bit of Premack in your training? Get 3 steps of nice attentive heelwork and release her to have a good sniff! Then increase and alternate the number of attentive steps before releasing. It sounds strange but using the principles of Premack is an amazingly powerful training tool and you will find the inappropriate sniffing will become less because it will be on cue and become a reward for given behaviour. For the dumbbell I would be going back to baby steps and do everything up close. Get great pickups, presents in front within 2 meters of you before throwing it. Good luck :-)

Now try it with a cat!!!!! :p :rofl: :p Our dog sat perfectly still for the vet while she put in the ointment. When we tried it at home it was a completely different matter...

Really interesting! My BC suckles his teddy bear and is very particular about it. He always suckles the head between the ears. What is interesting is that his mother, father and half brother are all confirmed sucklers but he had no contact with his father or half brother.

Thats called 'boy brains' :p I know it well which is why I'm going after another bitch after 3 boys which all had the same affliction