bedazzledx2

Wow..Clean Run have them cheaper! Thanks

mmm careful! Its a fine line between socialization and Parvo. Puppies are not adequately covered until after their 12 week vac and in some cases even longer. Parvo is around and it is a killer!!! Check with the local vet regarding the prevalence of Parvo in that area before exposing your puppy. You can do a lot of stuff safely by taking him out and about in your arms to meet people, go to shopping centres so he can see the hustle and bustle of life and allow him to meet safe dogs who you know are vaccinated. You can and should do lots of puppy training now. You don't need a dog club to do this at home and other safe places. I'm not against puppy classes but I would investigate and research well first. Have fun and send us some Pics

Anyone want some collars? I want some of these but the shipping is $54 http://www.colorpet.com/MAYA-Adjustable-Collars_p_12.html

If he is listless and his demeanour has changed I would suggest a vet visit. It could be a little more sinister than just a change of food. My BC used to have chronic gut problems and years ago I was advised by the vet to keep him on low dose cortisone I did a lot of research and changed to a raw diet and he is (touch wood) fine now and going strong at 12 years. I have re-introduced Advance bickies for the occasions I need to feed them fast food (take away for dogs!) and his system copes fine now. If he had diarrhoea I would look at the diet but other changes would have me concerned. A good probiotic can help too...I used Protexin but I'm sure there are others people may recommend. Edit for spelling

Well it was until a couple of years ago when bans came in!

Thanks everyone for your replies, I really do appreciate your thoughts and I have decided to go with the Proban. I used it around 4 years ago for a trip to Camp Tailwaggers on their advice and he didn't have any adverse reaction. I have cats, one of whom is very affectionate and will cuddle up to Brookie and sleeps with him (and me on my bed!) so I just can't risk the Advantix. I agree Clyde...the side affect of losing my boy to a tick is just not acceptable!

Wadaya mean? We cheered didn't we??? :D

We'll be around Indooroopilly and Durack.

Thanks Clyde. I hate the mess on the back of the neck that you get with the spot on stuff. I'm inclined to put it on a few days in advance and then wash it off so I thought the Proban would help. I have cats (thanks Agility Dogs) so I'll probably just go with the Proban.

....or you could train a toilet on command!!!! ;) I always put a word on eliminating very early on in toilet training and it translates to a cue at the trial grounds. "Go do wees" and "Busy Dog" for number two's :D or you could do what the retrieving people do.... :D ;)

For those wishing to enter the DWD competitons in May and July the entry fees are not in the canine news. They are $9 for members of the DWD Club Of WA and $12 for non members. Please let anyone else not on the list know.

Everything crossed mate! He was a different dog today, so bright and happy...I'm looking forward to the re-appearance of 'Mount Scoota"!!!

Can someone please advise me if you can use Advantix spot on in conjunction with Proban tablets. We will be travelling from the West where we don't have these type of ticks so not a lot is known over here. My boy is 23 kilo.

Congrats wuffles. Novice and beyond...Woo Hoo!

Thanks Ptolomy :D I was sooooo pleased with my boy today! He tried really hard and was so up and happy in the ring. I vote we get rid of the multiple retrieve!!! Stooopid exercise!!! Snazz was lovely and Cider's heelwork was to die for!!! Awesome Onya Mason... Is that title??

She did!!! ;) Just in front of mummy where it is nice and safe! Goodonya Ptolomy I vote that your mates critique your work and put in their scores instead of the judge's. Cider's DOR would've got top marks from me :D She DID drop.

Definately the right spot...congratulations!!! My 5 month old wouldn't have a hope yet...attention span of a gnat!!!!

Possibly a local rule... We have the option of having Open Competition (which is for dogs who have their title) and normal Open for those who haven't. Its not often used as we don't have the numbers to justify it.

Congrats on Inka's Open Not Ptolomy but my comment FWIW...If I'm in that situation I will do one of two things... if the dog is trying but just makes a mistake I will keep going and help the dog. If, on the other hand, it is going pear shaped and getting ugly I will withdraw. To me, permission to do the next exercise (or part thereof) is the reward for the previous one. For example if the dog doesn't sit in front there is no way I will give a finish signal...same with spitting the article out... opportunity to complete the exercise is lost along with the chance of reward. A lot depends on the dog's frame of mind.

Well done RubyStar and Ruby!!! I have bets on she'll get hers first!!!! I bet you never forget to toilet her again Cider's round was fabulous!!! What a little star she was... abolish all stays I say!! My Brookie was a good boy today and won the UD ring with a really nice round for195 UDX was um ... not Seems every time I look he decides on another exercise to blow! Positions in motion today although he did a lovely seekback both trials and a terrific sendaway in the second trial...jackpot that one!

How long is she in the crate for during the day? If its most of the day and all night then I wouldn't be surprised if she objects. If its short periods during the day then I would echo the Crate Games suggestion. I feed my 5 month old in his crate and true to the crate games regime he races into it as it has become highly re-enforcing. When he is crated in the car while I train the other dog I will use a good quality sheet (from the op shop) as its lighter and being a close weave he can't see through it...better than a blanket which is what I used to use. Works well :D

Manchester Terrier??? Short coat, as active as you want to be, low shedding. The ones I have met are pretty smart and very trainable.

Depends on what I'm working on at the time. Very often I isolate one particular part of an exercise and click and reward that. For example if I'm working on the pickup of the dumbbell then I'm not bothered about the set up...I'll click the mouth on the bell and if he comes back without it I don't care...if he does (most of the time nowadays) then I reward but I don't ask for a front or finish.

You're instincts are right...treat her like a puppy. Crate or contain (even tether to you) when you can't supervise and take her out OFTEN. After a meal, sleep, play ect. I don't use the clicker or treats for toilet training. A calm quiet 'good dog - go pee' (insert the phrase you want to use) as they pee or poo will be enough. She will get the hang of it but everyone in the house needs to know that if they think she might want to toilet...TAKE HER OUT! Give her many many opportunities to be right and as few as possible to make a mistake. Does she sleep in a crate? If not I would use some sort of containment system until she is reliable overnight. I ask my dogs "wanna go outside" when I'm taking them out and they learn to go to the door...that translates to the dog going to the door when they want to toilet which is a pretty good indicator to start with.

Thanks GayleK, now for the op to post the rest of the info.