Misha

My dog is toy driven. I was just testing if I can use food drive in training. The problem that I had was the food that she liked usually was messy ( except cheese). I found here on DOL happy paws treats. Now i need to hide them out of site otherwise she is going in drive just seeing the packet.

learning phase = only positive distraction phase = positive correction phase maintenance can be both

Another happy customer of odour go here. After reading about it in this tread, I ordered talc scent. Up till now used it on Deck, doggy bed, Garbage Bins, cat bed, and dog toilet area ( no plants there). Huge success.

Can I get 4 medium and 2 large

When I re read my previous post It was not clear even to me what I was trying to say. Sorry. I will try to reworded it. Lets put aside the history and the previous battles, for the sake of working dogs. What anyone can do to help. I live in VIC and I think (maybe i am wrong please advise) that i can not enjoy play freely with my dog as I think is healthy for working breed. I am big no lets reword that huge fan of GSD, the German way. I am not separating show and working line. I am big believer that there is one GSD. I love show lines but the ones that can work. I think that every dog from every litter should be capable of doing show and Shutzhund or at least trying to do otherwise that litter should not exists. Some breeder breed GSD for family dog but not work I think that they should change the breed. Yes people can choose not to do bite work that is their decision but GSD without some kind of test for its versatility should not be breed. GSD club should protect the breed . I should be able to expect some standard of quality. That is the reason why i am buying a pure breed dog. It should follow the standard. I should be able to predict to certain extend what i am getting. I know it sounds like a merchandise but the breeders needs to be responsible for the quality of the breed. If it does not pass the quality control then it should be just pet. Not a breeding stock. I have a GSD and in current situation she is a pet. Spoiled and pampered all the way. I have small kids. All my previous dogs were family dogs but they also were capable of doing the work. And I tested them They were titled SCH III and competed on highest levels. I believe that my current one should be able to do the same otherwise it should not be breed. I know that there are a lot of breeders or at least some breeders that have complete GSD. I am not blaming any breeders but I am asking how breeders can ensure the quality of gsd FOR THE FUTURE. Now what I can do as an individual. What anyone is doing to change the current state. Is there any group that is doing something. I do not wont to get involved in the previous arguments which group is to blame but what can be done if there is anything that can be done

do not worry i still think that every gsd needs to pass otherwise should not be allowed to breed, but honestly i am desperate here. I am ex Sch trainer worked in Europe for 20 years mainly with GSDs. After arriving in Australia I was out of the industry for 8 years. Finally got my GSD. Female that I think can go all the way but i am reading the laws in Vic and i was actually thinking of relocating the whole family. I am not propagating GSD that can not work. Like i said just desperate.

Maybe then they should not be rejected. Maybe they can do the rest of the work. At least the numbers will grow, the popularity will grow. and maybe just maybe one day we can go outside and train our dogs without worrying what will be consequencies. Sorry but being desperate here. I live in Victoria and as i know I can not train Sch. I can not play even tug.

I could not help it. Statement i do not call MOBILE PHONES or RESPOND to emails is rude not professional. Regarding email : Why then have a website. Regarding mobile phones: You do not need to provide the mobile number neither call my mobile. But you must provide some kind of communication. It is better to state that you will communicate using email and call land line phone number. Then i know that i can not expect call to my mobile. It is same thing but sounds better. Edited to add: You do not need to list any phone number because people will call that number and expect you to drop anything and talk to them. That is the reason why business put numbers on web pages. Breeders can request contact number and appropriate time to call from potential buyer and then speak with them.

Design Simple,clear (no dancing around), no sound, no music Web color used and web friendly font used Maximum 3 fonts per page Maximum 3 colors on a page Pictures need to be optimized Never put more then 8 pics on a page (IE limitation of 8 connections at once) Do not use frames Please test on different resolution, different browsers (at least two) For business page I do not recommend intro page but in this case i can agree Navigation Maximum 3 clicks to any info. Not more then one scroll to get to the bottom page. Main navigation on top going horizontally (More and more users use wide screen) You can have second tier links vertically Please have navigation links at the bottom screen. Other Contact page ( Lately we recommend not to have the email address because of spammers) more contact form if you are not designer please do not pretend to be. get a template from the web or just simple copy someone with the design Please if you can afford register a domain ( i hate to visit a website where i need to type breedername.somethingelse.breedname.freexxxx.com.xxxx.someth ing) it costs around $30-$50 for two years. If you can squeeze hosting better. Nothing worse than someone that visits your page but is force to get adds for xxxx enlargement or dating sites. Content To be continued ( I am at work)

Lived in Europe in 2 bedroom apartment no balcony. 4 persons and 2 GSDs. Both Sch trained. Had visitors daily from kids to grownups. Never had an issue. Moved in Oz. Living in 4 bedroom house on 1200 sqm yard. My back fence is Parkland. 2 grownups with child. 1 Gsd. Still no enough time in a day to spend with the dog ( as much as i think she needs) . I think when I was overseas the dogs were happier had more interaction with humans then now. i think the space of the backyard is not important it is the time that you can spend actively with the dog.

In regards to the return policy: Someone before mentioned warranty on product but you can not returned product because is not the right for you, or wrong choice or user fault is to blame or you broke it. Dogs are living creatures.They are not made. Breeders are not gods. Yes you can expect some guidance and help but first do your research. Learn more. Do the leg work. Think buying a plant. Yes things go wrong but you do not go and blame always the flower shop. I agree there are a lot of cowboys in the breeders camp but like in every camp. Carefully choose find the one that you can trust.

First let me say I am not a breeder. What about the responsibility of the puppy buyers? What about their responsibility to check the breed, check the blood lines, check the breeder. What about license to buy a pup? In some counties in Europe you need to prove that you can financially support the dog, Pay for compulsory puppy school and training if you live in Metro areas. That can fix the pounding issue and most of the other problems. You can not always put everything on the breeder. It is also your responsibility to check what are you buying, can you support that dog for 10-16 years, train spend time and a lot of other chores. After the chores you can enjoy the unconditional love that only dogs and maybe you mother can give you.

there should be some kind of test to become a dog owner.

I consider dog showing as a sport. A dog show is a competition. There will be fair and unfair competitors. The true winners wont mind someone playing unfair. I am not showing in Australia, but in Europe was the same. The newcomers start at the smaller shows. Learn all the ins and outs and then join the big league. Like in every sport. I know is harsh but like in every sport. I worked in the industry as a dog trainer for 20 years. On some dogs we had 5 trainers preparing them for shows. And yes there was unfair play during the shows. It is up to the judge to see it and control. I remember one dog was removed from a major competition from a judge. On all the shows after that, everyone was playing fair.

i usually say "can you take your dog away.my dog is very sick. And add virus."After couple off times no more off leash around my dog

When working with group usually will help if the dogs are at similar level. Opposite from Jules i actually like to single out a dog and the handler. Reason behind is i think that is easier to learn from someone else mistakes. But I made sure that everyone is single out during a session.(unless you have a perfect dog in the group but then i ll question what is doing at the class). When the dog is singled out i approach the group and explain in general terms the problem and ways to solve the problem. Only the person that is singled out is encourage to ask questions.It tends to force the group to think. Questions are allowed for the rest of the group when we finish the exercise. The individual look of every dog is a must. But then if the group is bigger than single digit number no personal attention. We worked with group up to 45 dogs 5 trainers. We still did not manage to give anyone one to one attention.Too noisy But with one trainer with 5-10 dogs we found no problem

You correct a dog for disobeying a command that has been previously learned that the dog knows. The stress of correction is the consequence of disobeying a leaned command. The positive reward is the pleasantness of obeying. It's not about yanking the dog around by the throat, it's about teaching the dog a command and teaching what is required from the command. Simple example the casual heel: You start of and command heel and praise the dog for being in the right place. The dog surges ahead.......aghhh.......a couple of leash pops and "heel" then praise the dog for returning to the correct position etc etc. When the dog has learned in bullet proof fashion to heel without distractions off leash.........the dog knows the command. Add some distractions like another dog approaching. Heel......the dog is in position and praised, then he see's the dog approaching and surges ahead, aghhh heel and he pulls to the end of the leash ignoring the heel command and a leash correction is admistered for ignoring the heal command. The correction is not the response for surging towards the other dog, the correction is for ignoring a known command which the dog has the choice of compliance or not. The dog learns that ignoring commands results in unpleasantness and complying with commands results in positive reward. The dog in this instance has learned right from wrong and the consequences of each chosen action. The dog will stay behind and heel without pleasure. Period. If you teach your dog like that you never have dog that wants to work. ( No drive) The dog will learn to expect punishment or wait for the ".......aghhh.......a couple of leash pops" That's not training a dog to work Misha, that's training obedience which is two different concepts, but without obedience as the foundation you create a solo tasking dog. It's like the GSD that was trained specifically for Schutzhund competition that got hit and killed by a car chasing a cat across the road. The dog had a SCHh3 title but the handler couldn't stop the dog chasing the cat through lacking in "off field" general obedience that the dog had never been taught. Work is taught in drive...........a different situation and different commands. However, you could train a casual heel in drive with a release word for the dog to chase and bite it's target being another dog approaching as the reward, but I doubt that too many people would be happy with such a training concept Wrong wrong wrong Even the info that you have that SCH3 dog will do that is questionable or the SCH3 title is questionable. Training SCH only for competition???? You raise dog for SCH not train. You raise dog for sport. I personally can not distinguish training obedience and training a dog to work.

You correct a dog for disobeying a command that has been previously learned that the dog knows. The stress of correction is the consequence of disobeying a leaned command. The positive reward is the pleasantness of obeying. It's not about yanking the dog around by the throat, it's about teaching the dog a command and teaching what is required from the command. Simple example the casual heel: You start of and command heel and praise the dog for being in the right place. The dog surges ahead.......aghhh.......a couple of leash pops and "heel" then praise the dog for returning to the correct position etc etc. When the dog has learned in bullet proof fashion to heel without distractions off leash.........the dog knows the command. Add some distractions like another dog approaching. Heel......the dog is in position and praised, then he see's the dog approaching and surges ahead, aghhh heel and he pulls to the end of the leash ignoring the heel command and a leash correction is admistered for ignoring the heal command. The correction is not the response for surging towards the other dog, the correction is for ignoring a known command which the dog has the choice of compliance or not. The dog learns that ignoring commands results in unpleasantness and complying with commands results in positive reward. The dog in this instance has learned right from wrong and the consequences of each chosen action. The dog will stay behind and heel without pleasure. Period. If you teach your dog like that you never have dog that wants to work. ( No drive) The dog will learn to expect punishment or wait for the ".......aghhh.......a couple of leash pops"

Arhhhhh Sorry Why in Australia Compulsion is bad word. For people saying that some one will read this tread and will start training with compulsion/force i will say that that person is dambo and I will assume idiots do not read treads here at least not on 5th page depth. In case a "Dambo" reads this traid: You do not punish the dog for trying. Even if the dog is making mistake you do not punish the dog. You are asking the dog to do something. Logic says DO NOT use any compulsion. You correct the dog. Correction still can be delayed reward, no reward or just try again. Most of the correction are needed for the handler not for the dog ( the handler did not ask the correct question) On my previous post I ask for possible solutions to invisible barrier. Reason for that can be protection of the dog. Yes US dog people are willing to adopt our way of leaving to accommodate the dogs needs but in reality working dog owners and "other" people in order for dogs better life require dog adaptation. Will you tell the owner of a dog that he needs to re home the dog or provide a quick solutions that will allow the dog to happily live ever after. For the people that know that with force you are not getting nowhere: in my opinion you need to apply compulsion if you need to get very reliable prohibition.

I use scoop n store container. i think they cost 32 for 15kg. http://reviews.petco.com/3554/12461/reviews.htm

Just for fun to add an easy one. Let's say the requirement is invisible barrier. 100% proofing required. And to be fair unlimited time( the life of a dog minus couple of years) and unlimited resources ( money to be paid). Training is a must management not possible. I will stress 100% reliability required. No matter what is on the other side. Possible training methods no compulsion allowed. I will be the devil advocate

With positive reinforcement you can teach dogs what is good or what they can do. You can use what ever word you want i ll call it negative reinforcement. I prefer verbal ( assuming the dog is conditioned already). With negative reinforcement you can teach the dog what is not allowed or bad. Regarding "If you can't control the dog whilst on the lead, how can you control the dog when you don't have a lead?" I worked with dogs that had more focus on sign/voice/body language than using a leash. The leash is just reinforcing the negative verbal reinforcement. If the dog is already conditioned to verbal negative reinforcement the leas is useless or at least destructive.

i start with forwards and back turns.It tends to give focus. Do not forget a lot of reward/praise on every turn. Then move to steps. One step or two forward then sit or stay.Mixed . For a start. Than i move to positioning and right turns. Cheers, Misha

In my opinion another tool in the bucket. Used by many with some modifications. On a lighter note Just to add: (I can not resist) When the transition time comes up and the dog is passed to the handler/own er , a lot of meat for the dog and bucket with water for the owner/handler. Because if the aggression is learned the handler/owner needs to be trained too. Cheers, Misha