Casster17

We always go... Its great to see all the fun things they bring out... I'm hoping Shar Pei Rescue will have a stall there...

from myself and the OH.... Cassie and Buster also send lots of licks and healing vibes... I hope all is on the mend with Grover... I understand the anx... Went through the same with Cassie and her heart murmer, Its horrid... Hang in there, I'm sure he will pull thru

If they plan on keeping the dog, why not suggest they build him a run... At least then he won't be tied up and ensure they concrete the floor so he can't dig out... I would suggest a power collar if you can use one in Tassie, I know they are illegial to use in Vic. Less strain on you and the dog, and harder for the dog to pull threw... You can order one through here K9 Force I have seen the easy walker used and it does work...

Can anyone tell me if the results from Jeff's study have been posted???

Teaching dog to wait for food: I do similar to luvsdogs Take food out ask dog to sit, if dog breaks or ignores I take food away. Sometimes i'll present again 30mins later, or sometimes wait until next feed time. If dog stays seated while i place food down I then release and dog can have food. having said that I have trained mine not to eat their dinner until they get their eat command Hope this helps

Erny - I believe that this sort of thing was mentioned when i did the NDTF course. I think it was Dr Robert Holmes - have you thought of contacting him for his opinion???

Thanks Kelpie-i, I 'll have a look... Thanks to all who have offered suggestions... Edit: AS much as i understand putting her in a kennel will solve the problem temporarily, i need more perminant fixes. She suffers with SRB's and we think this is just a new one, she has not done it again and we are not goin to give her the option, for now she is tethered when there is no-one to supervise her, with plenty of exercise and the continued obedience that she has always had minus visting a training centre, as we were adt and I haven't found a new training school I am happy with yet. I'm fussy. And without going into her whole story we have had numerous behavioural issues with her...

I believe it is learnt behaviour. We are thinking it is also a seperation related behaviour. She used to escape when we first got her and that was because she was so close to me. Always escaped when i wasn't at home. She still is close to me but we thought we had done enough independence training to get around it. If I could afford it at the moment i would, cheapest around here is $25/day. She would have gone there from day one but circumstances worked against me... (too many things went wrong with the new house)

Problem with e-collars is that you need to be there all the time to issue a correction. The beauty of the radio fences is once you've trained the dog to avoid the flags (they mark where the correction will start) the dog usually steers clear of the fence. The way the innotek fences work is that at a set distance from the wire the collar emits a beep as a warning to tell the dog that if they don't move away from the fence then they will get a correction. If the dog doesn't move or goes closer it will start getting the stim from the collar. The innotek collars don't increase in stim intensity but they are fitted with a sensor that notices when the dog is headed for the fence at speed and will start giving the stim ahead of that. There may be other electronic fence systems that do increase in intensity but I am unaware of them. Chances are that when you used the ecollar the dog was in a high state of drive and committed to going over the fence hence the lack of correction. The radio fence works as a barrier to the main fence so the dog can't quite get to the fence without recieving the stim so it doesn't get the chance to commit to going over the fence. I highly recommend this sort of system but I would speak to someone like Steve at K9force about what would best suit your situation and your dog. I know some people who have used a proper electric fence (livestock type) with a lot of success - this set up is especially good if you want to keep things out of your yard as well as in it! I believe they are around the same cost as the radio fence to set up but you just need to be careful and everyone and thing will get zapped by that sort of fence! I hope you find something that will suit you soon. It can be soo stressful when you have a dog that escapes and I speak from experience here. I tried everything with physical fencing which is why I resorted to the electronic sort of fencing in the end. At the new house we are ensureing that its fairly dog proof but I have been thinking a boundary wire might be worth trying if she continues to jump fences. She's injured at the moment, tore her claw off trying to jump fence, so She confined in her crate until its healed (not something i can do ongoing, she's a working breed) but I want temporary measures until I can get her at my new house.

She has never jumped the fence before... Created a hole and squeazed through yes, but not in the last 2.5yrs. And she is only staying at my parents place until my yard is dog proof, probably 3 more weeks.

Thanks for the feedback. Unfortunately she cannot be kept inside. I had thought about the pvc on the wire idea. Will have to see if that will stop her. Seita, I had thought of that, used an e collar on her once had to use the highest level to get any response. Does the innotek radio fence increase in levels as the dog gets closer???

Hi All, My dog has finally worked out how to jump fences... its taken 3 years and in the end watching the next door neighbours dog come over our fence. The problem is she is currently living at my parents house while I get my yard dog proof at the new house I have just moved into. Can anyone offer any good temporary solutions??? My dad would prefer not to do fence extensions.

Personally I prefer the around the back LAT and finishes. Much easier with an excitabe dog then the u turns for a LAT. I will teach either based on my clients needs though.

I suggest try putting the collar on when you play, and when you feed the dog, make the collar have a fun/good meaning. Even if you could leave the collar on for a long period of time. Does he enjoy his walks???? Try to take Quen to the collar rather then taking the collar to quen. have you tried with a brand new collar that has no negative connections? Don't reward behaviour that shows he is scared, this encourages the behaviour. Ignore the scared/ timid behaviour.

Does the dog have a bad association with the collar??? Is the dog a rescue as well or have you had it since it was a puppy??? (sorry wasn't clear in your 1st post) Does the collar only go on when the dog goes for a walk???

Well I'm glad after all that has happened we can all have a good Laugh

Wild at Heart, personally I prefer one certain method but am quite agreeable to go down other paths if my usual method won't work or if the client prefers another method. As a trainer - I try to find what will work for the dog. Each dog is an individual, what works for one dog may not work for another. Its helpful to have a whole lot of tricks in your bag. And i'm not backwards in asking for help from fellow trainers if I am not to find a method that works, other opinions are good as I may forget something or overlook something. I also Agree with Alpha - an assessment before working with the dog is a must

DSO - does she do this on lead too???? or only off lead???

LOL "what about me????"

He has advertised/posted the same post in a few forums... Very rude and has ruffled many feathers.....

I have heard that if you have any experience in the dog training/behaviour field before you join the police they will not select you for the dog squad. But please do not quote me, i may be wrong.

I was trained/have been training in the ADT way, And I will admitt the ADT way works better for my dog then any other method. Dominant dog among other things... Not sure which other clubs train in a similar matter. I am one of the many who has a difficult dog that most other training places won't allow.