Rebanne

hmm, there seems to be a lot of high energy games being played. Yes your pup comes from breeds that are typically high energy but most pups are full on. I'd start thinking of some quiet things to do with him. Sit out in the yard and call his name, toss a treat as soon as he looks at you. Then start tossing the treat as he comes to you. Within hours, if not minutes lol you will have a pup that will hardly leave your side. Teach him to lie on a mat. Same deal, toss a treat on the mat saying go to bed or whatever you want. Soon he will be hanging on the mat of his own free will. Then you start tossing the treat when he actually lays on the mat etc. Same with feeding him. He does not get fed until all 4 feet are on the ground, even if it's only for a nano second. He'll soon learn to plant those feet as if they are in concrete. As for out the front. Start with taking him just in the front yard, sit out with him and let him watch the world go by. Make sure you are out with him when the garbage truck and postie go by. Teach him to walk on lead in the back yard first,then the front, then step out to the footpath. At 10 weeks of age he does not need a walk as such. He needs exposure. Drive to a busy area, a supermarket is good, and let him watch people and cars. Stop thinking you have a high energy pup, start thinking you have a smart pup!

ask the breeder for copies of the parents results. If parents are clear then pups will be clear. If one parent is a carrier then some, or all pups could be carriers. I used a carrier for one of my breedings. 6 pups, 2 clear, 4 carriers. All pups sold with full disclosure of status. Not a problem as long as owners of carriers seek a clear dog to breed to ( if they are going to be bred ). I know of a litter where all 9 pups were DNA tested as clear even with a carrier parent. In theory it's 50:50 but doesn't always happen that way. As for physical exam, as Perse said depends on the breed and tests. Can't check for dysplasia on babies but adults can be xrayed but even if they are good doesn't mean the pups will be and there is a large contribution of how pups are raised as well. Some eye problems only show up well into adulthood as do some heart problems. Ask your breeder why they haven't done some tests if you are concerned but remember not everything can be tested for and just because there is a test doesn't mean it's in the breed. My breed can be tested for black skin disease but have never know a Greyhound to have it but some toy breeds get it. And remember, Mother Nature rules the roost and sometimes all the health testing in the world won't prevent a problem from occurring. That's life.

You might have to visit your local parks and wait until there are more suitable size dogs before letting her off. Of course the chance is still there that a particular dog may not appreciate your girls style of play so you need to make sure you have a good recall and don't allow her to intimidate other dogs. You could also try Facebook and see if there are any Amstaff groups in your area.

Depends on the test. DNA testing can be for some health conditions as well as parentage/colour. I do use Orivet and if you go to their website and look up your breed then you will see all the tests they have. Then there are eye tests, heart tests, hip and elbow xray's and others that need physical examination, though I know some inherited eye conditions can be tested for via blood sample. My Greyhounds have a lethal disease that needs DNA testing for so as not to produce infected pups. They are fairly sound for other things but I have hip and elbow scored them in the past. I haven't heart or eye tested them though that is more common overseas. I consider doing as much health testing as possible if there is a reasonable chance it could affect your dogs/pups particularly if you are /giving away your pups.

Personally if I was the breeder I would be paying for all the tests and giving petrol money. As the owner I would want to take my bitch myself unless the breeder has a strong relationship with the dog. Also depends on things like: did they pay full price for the bitch, half price, do they get to keep a pup out of this final litter etc as to what each person contributes. And most crucial of all this would be what has previously been agreed to. If your friend has questions then they should be going back to the breeder rather then getting you to ask on a forum. Breeders terms are very individual, very few people will be on the same page.

I'd relax and not stress. Your dog has already made it to 4, majority of inherited conditions should have shown up by now. You could be unlucky and get something show up later and you could also be unlucky and get something show up that has nothing to do with genetics but just luck of the draw. She's a pretty little thing, stop looking for problems and enjoy your time together.

I know I am coming to this late but the weeing in the crate could have been as something as simple as "I'm still young and forgot my training" and the bent bar, again " I'm still young, wonder if I can chew this just because I can!" The fact that Kane does settle with a kong is very encouraging. Also, as he has spent a lot of time in a crate he might be a bit sick of it all. Have you tried Crate Games by Susan Garrett. I think you are doing a great job.

seems a bit strange. 100% sure no accidental mating? ETA a quick google tells me Lab's are one of the breeds it's more common in, no mention of constipation, that it's hormonal and it is recommended the bitch be desexed.

why not? No different to me feeding pretty well 100% raw chicken when I feed meat. ETA I suppose Mercury may be a problem in wild caught fish but it would seem you have a friendly local fisherman if you can get as many sardines as you want. I'd be asking him. Quite a few years ago I know there was a flake shortage because of high Mercury levels.

I don't see why one meal a day couldn't be fish and the other the dry food. After all dog breeds that evolved around the coasts were mainly fed raw fish.

a ceaserean would not be covered

I assume 3 years ago that it did cost the vets more to buy it so of course they will pass it on. My vet knows I don't vaccinate yearly so she had nothing to gain from me.

I agree but if it costs more for the vets to buy it then they are going to pass that on

thanks everyone. It's as I thought, no difference between them just the label really. I know the kennel won't accept the annual as they are all overdue. My vet and I agree about vaccination and as she told me the "3 year" vacc was more expensive then the 12 month one I opted for the 12 month one. Pretty sure she told me then there was no difference between them except for the labeling. It's 3 years since my older two were vaccinated. I am asking some local kennels if they will take titre test results instead.

Ok, dogs might need to go into boarding kennels so they will have to be vaccinated. I will only do a C3 with the kennel cough part the nasal application. They may also be needing boarding again next year which got me thinking about the 3 year vaccination. If I recall rightly the last time the dogs got a C3 I was offered the 12 month or the 3 year and I only did the 12 month. My question is: what is the difference between the two? What makes the 3 year a 3 year? Are there extras added and if so what are they?

asal I would gladly charge more to at least cover my costs but when the market doesn't want what you are offering then not much you can do except retire from it all. Which I have done.

last thing he needs straight after bowel surgery is rock hard poo's. I'd be pretty annoyed as well

off the top of my head I would think things like walking over poles on the ground, under raised poles, figure of 8's around poles. I have also used the tellington touch figure 8 bandage on adult dogs while doing the other stuff. Not sure how you would go applying it on a rambunctious puppy though

Have heard only good things about Bowen Therapy. Can't help with any recommendations though, sorry.

the only time the price of the pups covered the cost was when I had a litter of 8. Never mind the other 3 litters had me deep in the red hole. I never put a price on my time. To me, covering the costs was: stud fee and vet fees ( 3 out of 4 litters were FS implants and all 4 were c-sections, micro chips and vaccinations ) and rego fees.

one thing you could do is pop Kane in the car and take him to a supermarket/Bunnings/up the street/nearest skate park and open the door and let him watch the world go by. I've done that with all my pups, easy if you have a hatch type car of course. And I have always found that if a pup has a basic good nature then they are usually pretty good as adults. It also depends on your goals. Mine were always raised to ignore other dogs but if they did get to interact then they were able to do so correctly. People were harder to ignore and still are!

I'd be putting a muzzle on him. As a greyhound owner I hear/read all the time about greyhounds muzzled for long periods of time. Personally mine current lot don't need to be but my very first grey was a bugger from destroying paper things occasionally when left inside the house alone. So he had his muzzle on when I went out. He much preferred to be muzzled and left inside then unmuzzled and kicked outside! If you choose your muzzle carefully dogs can pant and drink with them on. You would still have to puppy proof things though but as he grows it gives him time to be a dog doing doggy things outside without risking his life everytime.

I asked because I couldn't see any calcium in his diet which is a big no no but as the company says what the ratio is then it must be in there.

Time is the only thing that will really help. Perse is right, you have a wild dog. Maybe approach some livestock guardian breeders for in depth advice.

where is Kane getting his calcium from?