puppymum

I am going away for 6 weeks & have to board the dogs anyway (unfortunately alternative "home stay" arrangements fell through). I think my younger dog, Kiera, would enjoy the interaction of training if it is with the right person - she doesn't have any behavioural issues that need to be fixed or anything like that. I want to avoid any trainers that will approach it like "puppy boot camp" if possible though - I'm thinking more of the school holiday programs I used to go to, but instead of learning bead weaving and walking on stilts she can learn fetch and roll or something!

I am going away for 6 weeks in a few months time, and as I am having to put my dogs into a kennel I am thinking about having training for my younger dog (1yo miniature schnauzer). I would appreciate any suggestions on how best to pick a trainer, and what I can expect from the training. I would also appreciate any recommendations - I am particularly thinking of someone who is good at focusing on the "fun" aspects of training, perhaps a few tricks and games.

Usually the bones just crumble up in the tinned salmon. Was it definitely a bone, or might it have been a chunk that was a bit big to swallow easily?

I have just been doing a search on collar types - I was actually thinking of the martingale. Does anyone have an emoticon for "walking away sheepishly with foot in mouth..."

Maybe I'm wrong about the prong collar - as I said, my dogs are small & I use harnesses. From what I have read a prong collar is designed to tighten uniformly without choking- I'm really paranoid about collars, as I said, I had a dog nearly pull out of one into traffic (normal flat collar, and yes, it was fitted correctly). If this is wrong, please, please correct me! Maybe I am misinformed, or am I thinking of a different type of collar?

It might be that she hates it going over her head - I had a dog that hated anything going over her head, she much preferred a harness that was clipped on instead. She would sit back on her haunches with her arms out, waiting to be dressed like a little kid waiting for a jumper - too cute!! If she is refusing to walk once it is on though, she might just not like the feel. Take careful note of her reactions, to try and work out which bit she is disliking. Also, double check everything actually fits ok and that it is not too tight, or rubbing anywhere. If you think that it is the going over the head she doesn't like, you can either buy a different harness type, or just be stern & don't let her fuss about it - if you are consistent in letting her know it is going to happen, whether she likes it or not, she will eventually get used to it. In regards to her running away, you could try carrying the harness around all the time, or randomly picking it up & putting it down, she will eventually give up on reacting to you going to get the harness. If she seems to really hate the feel of it, try leaving it on her for long periods, regardless of whether or not you are going for a walk. She will get used to the feel - she can't refuse to move forever!!! And remember, you are the boss, you decide what happens - don't let her boss you around! You can show compassion for her needs, but don't give in to her every want. In regard to the collar vs harness argument, I like harnesses, but I have small dogs and control is not an issue. I have had a dog (the same one that hated things going over her head!) react badly to a collar, and she once pulled out of it on a walk, coming within a few feet of backing into traffic. She never wore a collar again - but your preference will depend on your dog & what you are doing with them. If she doesn't react the same way to a collar, I would just go with that - but perhaps consider a prong collar, which allows greater control.

I have also been wondering a bit about this myself - my dog has recently been attacked by a Staffy, and has shown some nervousness around similar looking dogs. For the most part there have been no changes in the way he greets other dogs, but I am concerned that he will actually provoke an aggressive reaction if he reacts badly to a dog that looks like the one that attacked him. Does anyone know if dogs are more likely to react aggressively if a dog is defensive? My dog barked at one dog (once he was sure she was quite safe - she was old and injured!) and another dog he did the whole tensed muscles and raised hackles (with a look on his face that said "I'm ready to run"). I am worried he will provoke an aggressive reaction, making him even more nervous & continuing the cycle.

A few questions that might help work it out: Has she worn the harness before, and did she react the same from the very first time? If she has worn it successfully before, where has she been with the harness? What sort of harness is it - does it go over her head, or clip around? How long did it take before she started running away? If this happened the first time you brought it out - does the harness jingle or make any sound she might not like? Or does she react when she sees the harness? Where is the harness kept, is there anything else there she might have a problem with? Or do you make any changes to yourself when you prepare for a walk - like putting on a hat or a coat that make you look different?

With all of the talk about the importance of raw meaty bones in a dogs diet, and the worry this causes because of the common advise that dogs should not be fed bones because they will choke, I thought I would do a survey to find out how often it actually happens. I have never seen anything from anyone who says that THEIR dog has choked on a bone, despite the common (although becoming old-fashioned) belief that if you feed your dog bones it is nearly inevitable. So, to try and put any possible choking hazard into perspective, I thought I would try a poll ;) If your dog has choked on something not listed in the poll, please let us know & help us all keep our dogs safer.

The bones are also needed for calcium, as if you feed just muscle the calcium/phosphorous balance is wrong. If you just feed mince you also need bone meal or another supplement, so if the bone is included in the mince it is better. Giving the bones whole is still better for the teeth. The best blender to use is the dog!! If you are going to mince I wouldn't recommend a blender, either buy it minced, or buy a mincer. If you are not sure what goes into the ready-minced pet mince (which often has preservatives etc) most butchers will be happy to mince your selected bits for you.

That's why I don't think BSL is the answer - but I do think breeding can play a part. Do you believe that genetics plays NO part in aggression and temperament, and that a breeder's only role is in breeding for looks? There are bad breeders, just as there are bad owners, and I believe this can also contribute to aggression problems in dogs. And in regard to owner's contribution, what do people think are the best ways of ensuring they do the right thing? I suppose what I am interested in is what people think the best ways to prevent dog attacks is - just saying afterwards that the owner did the wrong thing is no more helpful than BSL.

i see your point, and concur with your argument... they should never be left alone because all it takes is a second. But that doesn't mean we should be so paranoid as to CONTINUE to put BSL on the breeds RATHER THAN THE DEEDS!!! i'm so far gone on this, i hate it... i've seen a JRT have a go at a kid for petting it... but they're not considered a dangerous breed, yet they could injure the child too!!! The problem I have with focusing on the DEED rather than the BREED, is that it generally means nothing can be done until after a person or pet is actually attacked - having an individual dog dealt with after the fact is not much consolation to the victims. That being said, I don't really think BSL is the right answer to the problem either, but I am interested to know what people think about what role genetics, and therefore appropriate breeding, plays in aggression in dogs. If there was legislation of some type that aimed to prevent inappropriate breeding of aggressive dogs, regardless of breed, do you think this would be useful / appropriate? Or do you believe that breeders only need to consider the looks and health of the dogs, and that behavior is completely in the hands of the owner? My personal belief is that some breeds are more inclined to be aggressive to people and/or animals. I think however that it is more appropriate to focus on innapropriate breeding practices, as well as owner education about how to raise dogs, than to label an entire breed as dangerous - particularly when so many dogs are mixed breeds of unknown heritage. But I do worry about arguments that imply that aggression is unrelated to genetics, and also worry when people claim ANY dog is completely safe around children/dogs/cats etc.

Can this cause problems though with normal dog interactions which the Stafford takes as being "starting" a fight? I am thinking particularly of situations like dogs in adjoining yards who often have territorial disputes at the boundary line - most dogs tend to bark and posture a bit then leave it alone after making their point. Is a Stafford more likely to see it as a fight that needs to be finished?

I would recommend a 6 foot fence as Staffords can be great jumpers/climbers. Is there any particular TYPE of fence that is best - one that can limit their ability to climb over? I have had a "staffy" climb over a colorbond fence of that height.

Your're right - he's most likely digging because it is FUN! When you go out he gets bored and lonely, and digging is both good fun and stress relief for him. You need to find something else for him to do (which may be easier said than done ) Instead of just giving him toys to play with, you could try a game of hide and seek - put toys or food in various places around the yard, and try and put some where he has to put a bit of effort into retrieving them. You might have to start simple and show him the toys/food at first while he learns, and make things more difficult as you go along. It is also possible that he is frustrated and upset when you go out and he is left alone. Try to make sure there is not a huge contrast in his life between when you are home and when you are not - for example if when you are home he is inside and there is a lot of interaction between you and he gets a huge amount of attention, it would be a huge shock to be left outside alone and he may be digging to deal with the stress. Make sure that when you come and go there are no big hello/goodbye scenes, and that you keep everything as low-key as possible. Also try to make sure you do some training each day, even if it is just a few minutes here and there of sit or something - this will actually help increase his confidence. If he really enjoys digging, it might be best to try to provide him somewhere he allowed to dig, and encouraging him to dig there. If he digs at all when you are home you can take him to that spot every time he starts to dig and he should learn quickly that it is the right spot for digging. If he only digs when you are away, you will need to try making it the most attractive spot to dig. You should try burying treats in that spot so he is rewarded when he digs them up. Try to block off the other areas he likes to dig in, perhaps putting bricks on the ground or covering with wire. Just don't try to block off ALL the digging spots, or getting past the barriers to dig will just become his new sport - you just want to make your selected digging spot the most attractive spot for him to dig in. This is a good way to teach him to never dig in the same spot twice!! These sorts of methods only work to move a dog away from a particular area, not to stop digging altogether. The more you do this, the more widespread the destruction will be. No, he's just not bored or frustrated when you are around! If you have got upset when seeing him digging in the past he may also have learnt that you don't like watching him dig, which means to him he should do it when you are not watching. This doesn't mean he knows it is "wrong". If he did, he wouldn't do it, regardless of whether you are there or not. Also, in regard to "wearing him out" - even though he has an injured leg you can give him lots of stimulation when you are home - mental exercise is just as important as physical. Try practicing commands etc. or playing games like hide and seek to give him some mental stimulation. If none of these things help, you should probably consult a professional trainer - often more specific details (like where and when the digging FIRST occurred etc.) can be necessary to determine the exact cause of the behavior & deal with it.

Have you tried focusing on dominance issues - general training, making obey commands etc? She seems about the right age to perhaps be challenging for top dog, in which case it may be more marking behaviour than actual toilet training. I had a friend whose dog was doing similar things (in that case peeing on the kid's bed - she had one of the kids back in nappies overnight for about a week before realizing it was the dog ) and she focussed on getting the kids to do training exercises with the dog, enforcing rules like not being on the couch etc. The problem disappeared in a couple of days.

I get mine from http://www.petnetwork.com.au which have a huge range. You my want to try one of the puppy shampoos, as they are milder. I use the Kojo brand, which cost $16 for a bottle, but is diluted to make 5 litres, so lasts for ages. There is also a rinseless shampoo which is just sprayed into the coat, which might help with the oily Shih Tzu. I would find it strange that all the dogs are reacting to a shampoo, you may find either it is caused by something else, or it may be that the problem is that the shampoo is not being fully rinsed out. It is a good idea to dilute the shampoo & conditioner (most of the professional mixes give you a ratio to dilute) - you can buy bottles to mix them in to make the measurements easier. This makes it easier to spread the shampoo through the coat and to wash it out properly, as well as making the shampoo last a bit longer. Also how often are they being washed, as too frequent washing can also cause irritation, and can cause the skin to produce excess oil.

Hi, can anyone recommend a good groomer in the Outer-East suburbs of Melbourne? Also, how far in advance am I likely to have to book? I've never been to a groomer before, so I'm not really sure how they work. I have been clipping my boy at home, and everyone keeps thinking he's a different breed each time I clip, depending on which bit I botch up! At the moment he has long eyebrows, so everyone thinks he's a Schnauzer, I thought it might me nice to have him looking normal for a while.

I have tried this - and he just looks at me as if I am being particularly mean taunting him with food he can't get to!! The problem I have is that he does know how the door works, and will usually go through with just a little bit of prompting, but will sometimes refuse to go through without a push, and he doesn't seem to be willing to go through when I am not there. Even when he really want's to go in or out, he will at times just sit looking forlornly through the door, as if he's convinced it's not working at the moment. And other times he will go through without any problems - when I was out the other night he went outside, and then couldn't come back in, so that when I arrived home he was outside, thoroughly miserable, thinking he was locked out!

About 15 months!! I spent about 3 months on the progressively heavier plastic approach, which stalled completely each time I moved past heavy vinyl. I went back and started again thinking I had moved too fast a couple of times, with the same problem each time. Then I had just an open hole in the door, for a couple of months, thinking that if he got used to being able to come and go as he pleased he would be more inclined to persist with the door. I then tried the plastic approach again, with the same result. After it became obvious that wouldn't work, I ended up just putting the full dog door back, lining him up and pushing him through!! This actually seemed to help (I had been concerned it would create a negative connotation and make things worse, but eventually decided it couldn't get a lot worse!). I have now gotten to the stage where he will go through, most times, when prompted. But I would really like him to go through whenever he wants to go in or out. He has been living with another dog who used the dog door with no problems, and had not picked it up from her at all. I really don't know whether the problem is that he doesn't like using the door, that he thinks he needs permission each time or something else.

I am having trouble getting my dog (who is a 9yo shelter adoptee) to reliably use the dog door. I have tried all of the standard approaches I have seen (putting progressively heavier plastic over the door, rewarding with treats etc. etc.) but am still having problems. The issue is that he UNDERSTANDS how the door works, he just doesn't seem to LIKE it!! He will sometimes go through on his own, sometimes he will go through with minor encouragement, other times he needs the door pushed open a little to start him off. And sometimes he will just roll over and refuse! This is a problem even when he really wants to go in/out - the other day I came home to find he had gone outside, but was huddled at the back door unable to come back in. If anyone has any suggestions about this I would really appreciate it.

That's the bit I have a problem with - there is a difference between cleaning up where the dog can see, and punishing or getting upset at the dog. To be able to clean up without the dog seeing involves locking the dog away somewhere (which IS punishment, and attention etc). So in order to stop my dog seeing the clean up, I would have to contradict all of the other advice! Perhaps instead of saying "don't clean up in front of the puppy" the information should say IF you can't control yourself from making a big deal about cleaning up it is better to do it away from the puppy?

I wouldn't pay for the "routine" vet care option. I have this at the moment, and plan to drop it when the policy comes up for renewal. The routine options cover specific items up to a limit - if you add up the maximum you can get back, it's worth only a tiny bit more than the extra premiums, and the actual cost of the items is often lower than the maximum, so you actually pay more in extra premiums than you can claim. In regard to the plans in general, I am planning on getting PetPlan for my new puppy, as it has high cover and covers a lot of extras (such as the cost of the dog if it dies, rewards for lost dogs and repayments for cancelled holidays due to pet injuries). However, once the dog passes 10 years old they only cover 65% of costs, so I may change plans when she is older. My other dog has the RSPCA insurance, which will cover an older dog for the 80% accident and illness up to any age, as long as you start the insurance before they are 9 years old. This seems a much better option for an older dog, as it covers a higher portion of the cost - it may also be a better option if the extras on the other plan are not going to be of use to you.

Hi, I have been reading up on toilet training in preparation for a new puppy, and keep seeing advice not to clean up in front of the puppy, but no one actually says why it is a problem. If a dog can't connect an owner being upset with finding a mess with it's actions of going to the toilet earlier, how is it going to connect it with me cleaning in the area?

I used to feed my dog rawhide chews - the "reconstituted" red sticks - because she didn't like to chew bones. I stopped when she managed to steal a whole box & threw up everywhere on the carpet. The stains from the dye they use are still there, over 2 years later, having survived multiple types of stain remover and regular steam cleaning. It made me think about how many chemicals are in them, and now I only give my dogs natural products - I like dried chicken necks & make my own dog biscotti instead.