puppymum

I am going away for 6 weeks & have to board the dogs anyway (unfortunately alternative "home stay" arrangements fell through). I think my younger dog, Kiera, would enjoy the interaction of training if it is with the right person - she doesn't have any behavioural issues that need to be fixed or anything like that. I want to avoid any trainers that will approach it like "puppy boot camp" if possible though - I'm thinking more of the school holiday programs I used to go to, but instead of learning bead weaving and walking on stilts she can learn fetch and roll or something!

I am going away for 6 weeks in a few months time, and as I am having to put my dogs into a kennel I am thinking about having training for my younger dog (1yo miniature schnauzer). I would appreciate any suggestions on how best to pick a trainer, and what I can expect from the training. I would also appreciate any recommendations - I am particularly thinking of someone who is good at focusing on the "fun" aspects of training, perhaps a few tricks and games.

Usually the bones just crumble up in the tinned salmon. Was it definitely a bone, or might it have been a chunk that was a bit big to swallow easily?

I have just been doing a search on collar types - I was actually thinking of the martingale. Does anyone have an emoticon for "walking away sheepishly with foot in mouth..."

Maybe I'm wrong about the prong collar - as I said, my dogs are small & I use harnesses. From what I have read a prong collar is designed to tighten uniformly without choking- I'm really paranoid about collars, as I said, I had a dog nearly pull out of one into traffic (normal flat collar, and yes, it was fitted correctly). If this is wrong, please, please correct me! Maybe I am misinformed, or am I thinking of a different type of collar?

It might be that she hates it going over her head - I had a dog that hated anything going over her head, she much preferred a harness that was clipped on instead. She would sit back on her haunches with her arms out, waiting to be dressed like a little kid waiting for a jumper - too cute!! If she is refusing to walk once it is on though, she might just not like the feel. Take careful note of her reactions, to try and work out which bit she is disliking. Also, double check everything actually fits ok and that it is not too tight, or rubbing anywhere. If you think that it is the going over the head she doesn't like, you can either buy a different harness type, or just be stern & don't let her fuss about it - if you are consistent in letting her know it is going to happen, whether she likes it or not, she will eventually get used to it. In regards to her running away, you could try carrying the harness around all the time, or randomly picking it up & putting it down, she will eventually give up on reacting to you going to get the harness. If she seems to really hate the feel of it, try leaving it on her for long periods, regardless of whether or not you are going for a walk. She will get used to the feel - she can't refuse to move forever!!! And remember, you are the boss, you decide what happens - don't let her boss you around! You can show compassion for her needs, but don't give in to her every want. In regard to the collar vs harness argument, I like harnesses, but I have small dogs and control is not an issue. I have had a dog (the same one that hated things going over her head!) react badly to a collar, and she once pulled out of it on a walk, coming within a few feet of backing into traffic. She never wore a collar again - but your preference will depend on your dog & what you are doing with them. If she doesn't react the same way to a collar, I would just go with that - but perhaps consider a prong collar, which allows greater control.

I have also been wondering a bit about this myself - my dog has recently been attacked by a Staffy, and has shown some nervousness around similar looking dogs. For the most part there have been no changes in the way he greets other dogs, but I am concerned that he will actually provoke an aggressive reaction if he reacts badly to a dog that looks like the one that attacked him. Does anyone know if dogs are more likely to react aggressively if a dog is defensive? My dog barked at one dog (once he was sure she was quite safe - she was old and injured!) and another dog he did the whole tensed muscles and raised hackles (with a look on his face that said "I'm ready to run"). I am worried he will provoke an aggressive reaction, making him even more nervous & continuing the cycle.

A few questions that might help work it out: Has she worn the harness before, and did she react the same from the very first time? If she has worn it successfully before, where has she been with the harness? What sort of harness is it - does it go over her head, or clip around? How long did it take before she started running away? If this happened the first time you brought it out - does the harness jingle or make any sound she might not like? Or does she react when she sees the harness? Where is the harness kept, is there anything else there she might have a problem with? Or do you make any changes to yourself when you prepare for a walk - like putting on a hat or a coat that make you look different?

With all of the talk about the importance of raw meaty bones in a dogs diet, and the worry this causes because of the common advise that dogs should not be fed bones because they will choke, I thought I would do a survey to find out how often it actually happens. I have never seen anything from anyone who says that THEIR dog has choked on a bone, despite the common (although becoming old-fashioned) belief that if you feed your dog bones it is nearly inevitable. So, to try and put any possible choking hazard into perspective, I thought I would try a poll ;) If your dog has choked on something not listed in the poll, please let us know & help us all keep our dogs safer.

The bones are also needed for calcium, as if you feed just muscle the calcium/phosphorous balance is wrong. If you just feed mince you also need bone meal or another supplement, so if the bone is included in the mince it is better. Giving the bones whole is still better for the teeth. The best blender to use is the dog!! If you are going to mince I wouldn't recommend a blender, either buy it minced, or buy a mincer. If you are not sure what goes into the ready-minced pet mince (which often has preservatives etc) most butchers will be happy to mince your selected bits for you.

That's why I don't think BSL is the answer - but I do think breeding can play a part. Do you believe that genetics plays NO part in aggression and temperament, and that a breeder's only role is in breeding for looks? There are bad breeders, just as there are bad owners, and I believe this can also contribute to aggression problems in dogs. And in regard to owner's contribution, what do people think are the best ways of ensuring they do the right thing? I suppose what I am interested in is what people think the best ways to prevent dog attacks is - just saying afterwards that the owner did the wrong thing is no more helpful than BSL.

i see your point, and concur with your argument... they should never be left alone because all it takes is a second. But that doesn't mean we should be so paranoid as to CONTINUE to put BSL on the breeds RATHER THAN THE DEEDS!!! i'm so far gone on this, i hate it... i've seen a JRT have a go at a kid for petting it... but they're not considered a dangerous breed, yet they could injure the child too!!! The problem I have with focusing on the DEED rather than the BREED, is that it generally means nothing can be done until after a person or pet is actually attacked - having an individual dog dealt with after the fact is not much consolation to the victims. That being said, I don't really think BSL is the right answer to the problem either, but I am interested to know what people think about what role genetics, and therefore appropriate breeding, plays in aggression in dogs. If there was legislation of some type that aimed to prevent inappropriate breeding of aggressive dogs, regardless of breed, do you think this would be useful / appropriate? Or do you believe that breeders only need to consider the looks and health of the dogs, and that behavior is completely in the hands of the owner? My personal belief is that some breeds are more inclined to be aggressive to people and/or animals. I think however that it is more appropriate to focus on innapropriate breeding practices, as well as owner education about how to raise dogs, than to label an entire breed as dangerous - particularly when so many dogs are mixed breeds of unknown heritage. But I do worry about arguments that imply that aggression is unrelated to genetics, and also worry when people claim ANY dog is completely safe around children/dogs/cats etc.

Can this cause problems though with normal dog interactions which the Stafford takes as being "starting" a fight? I am thinking particularly of situations like dogs in adjoining yards who often have territorial disputes at the boundary line - most dogs tend to bark and posture a bit then leave it alone after making their point. Is a Stafford more likely to see it as a fight that needs to be finished?

I would recommend a 6 foot fence as Staffords can be great jumpers/climbers. Is there any particular TYPE of fence that is best - one that can limit their ability to climb over? I have had a "staffy" climb over a colorbond fence of that height.

Your're right - he's most likely digging because it is FUN! When you go out he gets bored and lonely, and digging is both good fun and stress relief for him. You need to find something else for him to do (which may be easier said than done ) Instead of just giving him toys to play with, you could try a game of hide and seek - put toys or food in various places around the yard, and try and put some where he has to put a bit of effort into retrieving them. You might have to start simple and show him the toys/food at first while he learns, and make things more difficult as you go along. It is also possible that he is frustrated and upset when you go out and he is left alone. Try to make sure there is not a huge contrast in his life between when you are home and when you are not - for example if when you are home he is inside and there is a lot of interaction between you and he gets a huge amount of attention, it would be a huge shock to be left outside alone and he may be digging to deal with the stress. Make sure that when you come and go there are no big hello/goodbye scenes, and that you keep everything as low-key as possible. Also try to make sure you do some training each day, even if it is just a few minutes here and there of sit or something - this will actually help increase his confidence. If he really enjoys digging, it might be best to try to provide him somewhere he allowed to dig, and encouraging him to dig there. If he digs at all when you are home you can take him to that spot every time he starts to dig and he should learn quickly that it is the right spot for digging. If he only digs when you are away, you will need to try making it the most attractive spot to dig. You should try burying treats in that spot so he is rewarded when he digs them up. Try to block off the other areas he likes to dig in, perhaps putting bricks on the ground or covering with wire. Just don't try to block off ALL the digging spots, or getting past the barriers to dig will just become his new sport - you just want to make your selected digging spot the most attractive spot for him to dig in. This is a good way to teach him to never dig in the same spot twice!! These sorts of methods only work to move a dog away from a particular area, not to stop digging altogether. The more you do this, the more widespread the destruction will be. No, he's just not bored or frustrated when you are around! If you have got upset when seeing him digging in the past he may also have learnt that you don't like watching him dig, which means to him he should do it when you are not watching. This doesn't mean he knows it is "wrong". If he did, he wouldn't do it, regardless of whether you are there or not. Also, in regard to "wearing him out" - even though he has an injured leg you can give him lots of stimulation when you are home - mental exercise is just as important as physical. Try practicing commands etc. or playing games like hide and seek to give him some mental stimulation. If none of these things help, you should probably consult a professional trainer - often more specific details (like where and when the digging FIRST occurred etc.) can be necessary to determine the exact cause of the behavior & deal with it.