Elfin

Woot Woot! Now we are getting somewhere! Thanks guys, and keep 'em coming!! We would be looking at around $75 (depending on numbers, perhaps even less), compared to the $195-$200 you are paying now....

Thanks Diva and FTPO! I have put it in a food processor and mixed it with all their favourite stuff, but they still refuse to eat it. I have thrown out so much food trying different things! I will try frying it and see how we go... thank you both again

We are in our third week of raw feeding (ok, mainly raw with a little EP Holistic... ), and it's going well, but none of my crew will eat liver. Beef liver, sheep liver, chicken liver... won't eat it, no matter how I prepare it (apart form dried liver treats!). I have tried hiding miniscule amounts in their meat and veggie mix, but then they just don't eat any of it!! Any advice please?

Thank you, mercedes! Do you think you could get a rough idea of numbers? Come on, people! I am trying to get you a better deal here!!!

Anyone?! There seems to be some (understandable) discontent in the Breeder's Forum re the cost of ACES eye testing. If I can get enough numbers, I will organise a specialist trip to Wagga and Albury/Wodonga (and perhaps even Canberra) that will probably cost less than HALF of what you are currently paying!! I need numbers to convince the boss, though!

Updated to include Wagga..

Just putting feelers out, following on from a thread in Breeder's Forum: If a veterinary ophthalomolgist was to go to Wodonga and/or Wagga for an eye clinic, would there be many people interested? Please let me know, and how many dogs you may need certification for. Prices would be very competitive. A bit about the Australian Canine Eye Scheme Registered Veterinary Ophthalmologists are bound by the Australian College Of Veterinary Scientists (Ophthalmology Chapter) to perform ACES exclusively (ie. they are not allowed to perform any other eye certification) for breed certification purposes. The aim of the internationally recognised ACES Scheme is to be a national scheme, equivalent to the American CERF and the British BVA/KC/ISDS Eye Scheme. It is to ensure consistency and allow for the collation of breed statistics that are annually reported to the individual Breed Clubs. This annual report does not state individual results, but only the number of dogs of that breed screened and the number (if any) affected by specific conditions.

I will PM you some details of a possible forthcoming Poodle day.

You don't have to be part of a Club Clinic to get ACES certification at Animal Eye Care... if you have more than one dog, it is only $55 per dog.

Bindii, his eyes look great! Congratulations on a lovely job done! It is a very common procedure where I work, and the end result is great for the dogs!

Tear staining is very common, and most certainly not normal. The powder you put in the food is actually a poultry antibiotic that kills the germs causing the staining, but does not fix the problem. I would not give it to my dogs in a million years. Oversized eyelid openings, distchiasis, ectopic cillia, blocked or "lazy" tear ducts, entropion, punctal atresia... theses are all causes of tear over-flow. Don't try to mask the stain - do something about the cause.

I give all my dogs glucosamine/chondroitin and MSM from day one. I used to use Joint Guard, but to get human tablets from the chemist/health food store is much cheaper.

Boo is only 2 and a bit years old. We'd noticed a cloudy area 3 weeks ago in his right eye and so this was the follow up appointment to look at that, the cloudy area hasn't gotten any worse so he thinks that is nothing to worry about but he got a better look at his eyes this time and noticed some early cataract signs, something about deep in the pupil it kind of looks like broken glass when the light is shined into it? Definately sounds like early cataract. I hope it all works out for you and Boo.

I have only ever seen a broken toe in a cast once... a friend ran over their dogs foot and the vet put it in a cast. The cast was too tight. When the smell of rotting flesh became apparent, they took him back to the vet but it was too late. He had the entire lower leg amputated. I don't think this is the norm, but I wouldn't cast a broken toe. I would wrap it anyway, it won't do any harm. Did the vet give you any anti-infams?

MSM (in capsule form from a chemist or health food store) is brilliant - helped my jointy racehorses, helps my own arthritic feet and I am giving it pre-emptively to my older dogs. I give 1000mg a day. It is available mixed with glucosamine and chondroitin too, but I don't think it's strong enough, so I give them seperately. All the best

I get x-rays cheap , but they would probably cost around $150-200 depending on if she needs sedating. Normally they don't need sedation, as they can just be sitting up with their foot on the x-ray plate.... Phone around and get some quotes. Or just wrap it (checking everyday it is not too tight and changing it every 2-3 days) and give her some anti-inflams. If she is still not weight-bearing, of the swelling has not resolved after a few days, I would get an x-ray. All the best

Both Anna Deakin and Edith Hampson have very good reputations. I cannot remember where their clinic is.. (quite sure it is north of the river). I will find out tomorrow for you.

Sorry, in the OP you asked for signs... Non-weightbearing and constant licking - yes, my dogs have done this if it's broken. Flex the rest of her leg and see if she is painful anywhere else.

She has possibly broken the toe. I have had a couple of dogs break toes while coursing. I normally get it confirmed by x-ray, then put them on anti-inflams (eg. Rimadyl) for about 7-10 days, try to strap the foot (put a lump of cotton wool between each toe and also under the foot and wrap the whole lot with Vet-Wrap), and rest for a long as possible (which in my case was about four days ) The toe may set crookedly, but they can still course, no probs. If it is very badly broken, the vet may recommend amputation. I take my dogs to a greyhound vet for sporting injuries, and he just says wrap 'em and leave 'em.

I have been lurking in this thread for a while, and you have all insipred me... today we started to make the switch to raw ! I made veggie slops (it was actually quite fun!) and have put it into little freezer pots. The slops today contained broccoli, carrot, an apple and sweet potato. I already feed lots of raw meaty bones (lamb flaps, chicken carcass or lamb neck every day), and they get a whole egg (including shell) twice a week. I feed Vet's All Natural Omega Blend (mix of oils) 3-4 times a week. They get sardines once a week. Tonight, for the first time, they had veggie slops mixed with roo mince (about 1:6). They LOVED it!!! I have never seen them eat so quickly! I will keep up with the daily bones, twice-weekly eggs, Omega Blend and sardines. Is there anything obvious I am missing or should cut out? Is there any point to feeding rice? Do I need to add/delete anything for my 32kg 9 month old pup? (They are Deerhounds) Thank you all so much for the inspiration!

Thank you Stitch! I will be contacting Erny this week to book some group lessons.

Thank you, sas. I was thinking the same thing, but was unsure if i was being an "overprotective mother"! She gets very excited when she sees other dogs, and while 90% of them are no problem, it is the other 10% that she just doesn't "get".

I have not really had a problem with our 9 month old bitch pup until recently, when the zombie hordes discovered our "private" off-leash park and we now have to contend with a million other dogs when we go for a walk. She is overly friendly and very submissive. She will literally crawl up to other dogs on her belly, very happy but soooo submissive. She then crawls around the "strange" dog in circles, wagging her tail. Her size is obviously intimidating to other dogs, and when she gets too much, they will often growl or snap at her. This is fine; she needs to learn her "place" rather than get up in other dogs' faces. But she continues to try to lick the angry dogs faces... she doesn't understand the obvious "go away" signal these dogs are giving, and I worry that she will be badly bitten one day. Is it because my two older dogs constantly growl at her when she is being a pain in the ar$e, but never actually "following through" with a well-deserved nip? Any ideas?

Viscotears (a gel), cheap from the chemist or bathe with cold Calendula tea (available from health food store). I wouldn't bother with saline. Refresh Tears is OK. All the best.

My pup got lots of cuddles from some gorgeous kids, and I met some lovely people that were genuinely interested in my breed and in show dogs in general, and asked some great questions that I was more than happy to answer. It's just that the comments I listed made me giggle... I didn't intend the thread to be anything more than a giggle...