pipsqueak

sorry i cannot answer your question specifically, but this might be a starting point for you to see what's available and if it suits what you need....

http://www.vetnpetdirect.com.au/view_all.php?cat=305

perhaps if you could give a general idea of location, people could be a bit more specific with their help in recommedning a vet? that is unless i missed it?

Steve Austin

you can also get Joint Guard "liver treats" and they are only very slightly more expensive than the powder. These work well for our dog who is a very fussy eater and won't eat the powder mixed with water... and yoghurt seemed to give her an upset stomach at least once a week. With these liver treats you could just use them as the morning reward for getting the paper.

i am the owner of a "rescue" dog who never learnt not to mouth as a pup. He is improving, but it is the one thing that I have to constantly be aware with him - and it is not something that I would ever encourage. Teeth are for toys and not for human skin - too easy for a dog to make a mistake. This may be the one thing that stops me from trialling this dog, and that at times breaks my heart.

dog hasn't choked on a bone, but has had a piece of lamb neck bone stuck on her teeth - couldn't get it off, so made a dash to the after-hours vet, as dog seemed fairly distressed. by the time i got to the vet, she had managed to crack the bone herself and all was okay. as a result of this, i only feed bones when i am around to supervise

can i just ask if this is only agility, or are there plans for it to be applied to obedience as well?

i would be very intersted in finding out more about this, as it is the one reason that I haven't taken my dogs lure coursing yet.

sounds like it could be "canine cough" - if you do a search there should be heaps of info.

Adam Katz - never heard of him

Thanks.

I cannot access youtube at the moment, but I am curious as to who the "trainer" is???

... then try dried, sliced blood sausage - disgusting and stinks to high heaven but I've never seen dogs be motivated by food more quickly

can I hijack for just a second? I have seen blood sausage in the butcher and deli, but I need to know if I need to cook it first???

Yes cut the blood sausage into thin slices 1-2mm thick and then place on a plate on some absorbant paper and microwave for 4-5 minutes (it goes a bit rubbery). The last lot I did - I microwaved it in two lots - I didn't bother covering it. The house will stink so you will need to open up all the windows.

When cooled I cur each slice into 1/4's and then I put them into plastic bags and into the freezer and I just pull out a bag when I need it.

Thanks for that. I haven't got a microwave, so I'm guessing I could just slice it thinly and bake in for a while in a slow oven???

... then try dried, sliced blood sausage - disgusting and stinks to high heaven but I've never seen dogs be motivated by food more quickly

can I hijack for just a second? I have seen blood sausage in the butcher and deli, but I need to know if I need to cook it first???

Also try a book called "How Dogs Learn" by Bailey & ???

My situation might be a bit different to yours, but I'll add it anyway for a different perspective.

I adopted two shelter dogs (not at the same time) as adults. I have crate trained both of them (both large breed crosses) as adults. They continue to sleep in their crates overnight, as I don't trust them not to soil the house overnight. If I crate them, I can sleep - if I don't, I will stay awake and worry. They are both clean in the house during the day when we're home, but I just don't want to risk giving them an opportunity to make a mistake at night.

Any news on the next dates???

www.greatrugs.com.au

I have just emailed Natura - it will be interesting if they reply.

Prime Real Estate - too long???

Prime Location

I've been lurking on this thread since the start. :p Polly - have to say she's my favourite.

How about "Prime Quality" for a name?

Have you asked if you can go and watch one of their training sessions prior to your friend sending their dog? That way you can judge their training methods for yourself.

If they refuse, I would not be sending the dog.

Erny - yes, unfortunately Sydney is a known heartworm area.

I would be speaking to my vet for advice.

I have one dog who chews (or rather unpicks the stitching!!!) on soft toys. He gets to pay with the soft toy so long as he is running around and throwing or playing with the toy. As soon as he starts chewing/sucking the toy, it's game over, as I am afraid that he will eat it. He also sucks holes in blankets (doesn't actually chew them), so he doesn't get a blanket for his bed either. Probably mean, but I think it would be meaner if he ends up with a blockage. He gets kongs and treat balls to chew, and that's about it. If he starts destroying those, they will be removed as well - which would just leave bones that I am happy for him to destroy.

ETA - I also, at times dictate how my dogs play. If I am outside, their play can tend to get very rough (moreso than when I am inside). So, if it gets too rough or noisy, I will put a stop to it. I don't see this as being much different to limiting play with toys. I am "boss" in this house, so all toys belong to me - I get to say when play starts and stops - be it with me, each other or with toys.

Ok so I guess that I shouldn't tell the interstate people that I got to snuggle the cute widdle puppies on the weekend.....

Arrrrr puppy breath.....

Not unless you are going to post puppy pictures!!!

Try 12 months down the track with a dog who still doesn't offer behaviours!!! She was always positioned or lured so never learnt to think for herself. And yes, she definitely knows what the clicker means. I have to start with the tiniest of movements and build from there. Sometimes with her, it is just easier to lure, as it saves us both the frustration.